Options for winding hair on bobbins when performing a perm. Perming bobbins: how to choose and use the right staggered perm

This technique has a number of features and is recommended for women with hair. middle length, up to 20 cm, slightly graduated, for those who wish to obtain natural curls and waves with pronounced crowns. The curling of the hair and the arrangement of the curlers are carried out in the direction of the hair.

Technology for winding hair on two bobbins - 1st method

Screw the 1st bobbin up to the roots, secure with a hairpin. Take the 2nd strand, wind it on the 2nd bobbin and put it on the 1st bobbin.

Secure with two pins on the 1st bobbin. Impregnate with a chemical composition, give an exposure time, rinse, fix, treat with a medical preparation for hair care after a perm. When winding the strands, you can take different diameters of the bobbins. The wrapping of the 1st and 2nd bobbins can be directed in one direction or in different directions.

Apply to hair chemical composition, withstand time, fix, neutralize.

Technology for winding hair on two bobbins - 2nd method

The first bobbin is screwed all the way forward. The second bobbin is also wound forward and is located above the 1st bobbin. The third and fourth bobbins are screwed back in the same way. You can take bobbins of different diameters, alternating the order of their location on the head. Fasten with peaks, sticks, rubber bands.

You can wind your hair in this way only to the crown, and then wind all the strands back.

Enrich the hair with a chemical composition according to a standard technique. Withstand the time. Commit. Neutralize the effects of drugs.

Technology for winding hair on two bobbins - 3rd method

Wind a strand onto the bobbin, not reaching 6-7 cm to the roots (2-3 turns, depending on the diameter of the bobbin taken).

Place the 2nd bobbin under the 1st and continue winding the hair up to the roots.

Fasten the bobbins with hairpins or rubber bands.

Before wrapping the 1st bobbin, the strand can be impregnated with a chemical composition. This must be done very quickly so that there is no overexposure of the ends of the strands, since when long hair Oh chemical preparation poorly reaches the 1st bobbin. If the chemical composition is applied after wrapping on all bobbins, it is necessary to abundantly wet the hair 2-3 times. Give the holding time (according to the instructions for this drug).

Rinse, squeeze out excess water. Pat dry with a towel. Apply fixer, rinse off according to the standard procedure.

Perm was invented by hairdresser Karl Nessler in November 1906. His first client was his wife. For hair health, permanent perm is certainly not the most useful way, but beauty, as they say, requires sacrifice, and the number of girls who turn to a beauty salon to get the desired curls is growing.

Hair curling methods

Hair curling can be divided according to the type of chemical composition with which the hair is treated. Our mothers and grandmothers curled their hair with permanent curling acid and alkaline composition. These methods are still relevant, in addition, acid and alkaline perms stay on the hair for as long as possible - from six months or more.

Acid hair curling

The curling preparation penetrates into the hair without revealing its outer scales. Thus, a very tight curl is obtained. However, if you have thin and soft hair, this type of curling is contraindicated for you - the curls will quickly lose their shape and stretch out at the roots. For owners of sensitive scalp and dry brittle hair, this type of chemistry is also not suitable, it will completely finish the hair, and you will have to cut your hair very short and treat your hair with masks.

Acid perm using thioglycolic acid is very fragile, lush curls lose their volume in a little over a month. However, this is the most hair-friendly method. This perm is recommended even for newly colored hair.

Alkaline hair curling

less persistent, lasts up to 3 months. The curls are elastic and look natural. Unlike acid curling, here the preparations penetrate into the hair, revealing its outer scales. This treatment is milder on the hair, but still not suitable for many hair types. If your hair is straight, stiff and heavy, then it will become even less resistant and last for about a month. Alkaline curls are cheaper than acid ones.

Neutral hair curling

has a long history of emollient properties and is suitable for all hair types. The chemical composition of the drug includes allantoin, the curls are strong and elastic, the curling itself is relatively stable, it will last from three months to six months, depending on your hair type.

Amino Acid Hair Curling

contains amino acids and proteins in the preparation. They nourish and heal hair, which helps to minimize the negative effects of chemicals on hair. Curls are soft and natural looking. Unfortunately, curls are short-lived. This method is not suitable for coarse, heavy or long hair. curls will develop very quickly under the weight of your weight

Hair curling "Silk wave"

The preparation contains silk proteins, which take care of the hair and do not spoil the hair structure. Even bleached hair after such "chemistry" looks healthier.

Hair biowaving

The biowave does not include ammonia, hydrogen peroxide and thioglycolic acid; they are replaced with a preparation similar to hair molecules that connect the sulfur bridges of the hair. Curling based on such preparations gives hair not only long-lasting curls, but also gives it a completely natural and healthy look. There are several bio-curling technologies, for example, "Angel Curls" or italian technology using bamboo extract.

Japanese hair curling

with lipid-protein complex LC2 is recommended for weakened hair. It is more durable than silk, and a biphasic lipid-protein complex regulates hair moisture, maintaining shine and elasticity. The cost is about the same as for the "silk wave".

American hair curling

ideal for medium length hair. The difference between American curling and other types is that it uses special complex designs from Olivia Garden curlers.

Root chemistry

Perfect solution for short and shoulder length hair that lacks volume. Also, root chemistry is done when the permanently curled hair has grown considerably. Root chemistry for straight hair will lift the hair, for example, at the back of the head. The effect of such a curling is lost as the hair grows, and at the roots it will be noticeable in a month. Curling at the ends of the hair is an excellent solution for fine, sparse hair, trimmed in steps or cascades. Hair gains lushness and serves as an excellent base for creating hairstyles.

Wellaformers replaced curlers and papillotes. In beauty salons, the technology of curling hair with the help of latex bags, which shrinks and curls the hair, has recently appeared. Such a device is called wellaformers. As a result of using this new product, you will get a lot of lush, but soft wavy curls. Hair when curling with wellaformers should be of medium length, or slightly longer. This is due to the fact that the hair at the roots in this case remains straight.

A good master in a good salon will definitely tell you what type of curling is best for your hair. Before the procedure itself, professionals in their field, first of all, will conduct a tensile test on the strand and a reagent test on the skin. A skin test behind the ear is done to determine if you are allergic to the selected compound. After that, you will be prompted to do a test on one strand with the selected drug. This is required in order to determine the concentration of the formulation suitable for your hair type. If after using the drug they look dull and unhealthy, then the concentration of the drug is reduced.

In some cases, the master may refuse to curl your hair. For example, if they are discolored or unhealthy enough that many of the hairs in the test strand break when pulled. The reason for refusal to perform the procedure may be ordinary henna. It clogs the hair scales and prevents the penetration of the composition inside. Before doing chemistry on your hair, you will be offered to make an alcohol-oil complex in order to pull out the remains of henna from the hair, but one session will not be enough here.

If you have recently dyed your hair, then you need to wait with curling your hair. Chemistry is not recommended during the "critical days". If you were going to cut your hair and curl it, then first do the chemistry, and after the final haircut, but not vice versa.

If the master immediately offered you a perm without preliminary testing, or in the salon they practice only one type of permanent hair curling, which may not suit you at all, it is better to find another master in another salon.

There are two methods of perm: direct and indirect.

Direct method. Each strand is moistened with a chemical composition and wound on bobbins according to the classical scheme.

Twisting according to the classical scheme (Fig. 1, a) starts from the lower occipital zone of the head. Then the hair of the middle and upper occipital zones is wound, then the temporomandibular and, finally, on the parietal. All hair is curled in the direction of its natural growth.

Indirect method. Wet hair is wound on bobbins according to any scheme (Fig. 2, b, c), and then moistened with a chemical composition.

a - classic; b - directional; c - variable

Wetting the hair with the composition this case produced in three steps:

* a small amount of the composition is applied to the hair to soften it slightly;

* the average amount of the composition is applied to the hair in order to thoroughly moisten it;

* carry out control wetting of hair.

The composition begins to be applied from the lower occipital zone.

After choosing a method for performing a perm, start winding the hair on bobbins, while taking into account the following:

the width of the strand should not exceed the length of the bobbin;
the thickness of the twisted strand should not be more than the diameter of the bobbin;
strands must be pulled strictly perpendicular to the head.
One perm requires 50g of the composition.

A warming cap is put on the curled hair and the composition is kept for 10 to 40 minutes. The exposure time depends on the concentration of the chemical composition and the condition of the hair. When using Klimazon, the exposure time is halved.

After a while, it is necessary to check the quality of the curl, for which they unwind (not completely, but only by 1-2 turns) and screw back 3-4 bobbins in different zones, and also compare the diameters of the bobbin and the resulting curl. If these diameters coincide, then proceed to the next stage: the composition is washed off with hot water, without unwinding the bobbins.

Then fixation is performed by laying a tourniquet from a napkin along the edge line of hair growth so that the fixer does not fall on the face.

Currently, there are two types of fixer available: ready-made and concentrated.

One fixation requires 50 g of fixer (3-5% concentration of hydrogen peroxide). If the fixer is ready, it is applied with a sponge or applicator to the bobbins and foamed so that a foam cap is formed. The holding time of the composition on the hair is 10 minutes. If the fixer is concentrated, it must be diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio before application.

After the foam has settled, the bobbins are untwisted and the fixer is applied to the ends of the hair for another 5 minutes. Then the fixer is washed off with clean water.

After that, the final work is performed: neutralization with a special compound, styling, haircut, drying, etc.

Permed with braids and bobbins

Wet hair is divided into zones, as shown in fig. 2, a.

a - division of hair into zones;b - braided pigtails with ends twisted on bobbins;c - the resulting hairstyle; arrows indicate the direction of hair separation

The first row of braids should be 5cm wide. The number of braids depends on the density of the hair; the thickness of each braid is 2-2.5 cm. The hair is braided tightly; the ends are not braided, but wound on bobbins and secured with an elastic band.

The zone of the second row of braids should be slightly wider than the zone of the first row, and the third - wider than the zone of the second row.

Thus, the hair is processed row by row to the top of the back of the head.

Hair strands in the temporomandibular and parietal zones are braided into thicker braids (3-3.5 cm).

After all the hair is braided in pigtails, and the ends of the braids are wound on bobbins, they are impregnated from all sides with a chemical composition and kept for 15-25 minutes, depending on the condition and structure of the hair. Then the pigtails with bobbins are washed very thoroughly with water (t = 50 ... 60 ° C) and a fixer is applied, which is kept for 10 minutes. Next, the fixer is washed off with water, the bobbins are removed, the braids are unraveled and the hair is washed again with water.

At the end of the perm, the hair is washed with a therapeutic emulsion and combed with a comb with large teeth.

Hair is dried naturally or with a hair dryer.

The hairstyle turns out to be natural, with large curls.

This combined chemical permanent method is recommended for those who do not use curlers to curl their hair.

To make the hair look lush and thick, as well as to facilitate its styling, a root method of perm is used (Fig. 3). It is recommended for thin or overgrown hair after perm, as well as for hairstyles in which it is necessary to create volume at the hair roots.

The essence of the root method of curling is that not all hair is wound, but only part of it at the root, leaving the ends of the strands straight or keeping the same curling on them.

The wrapping can be started from any area of the head. However, it must be borne in mind that if the hair has previously been permed, then the bobbin should be wound, stepping back 2 cm from the regrown part of the hair. For example, if the hair has grown by 8 cm, then the bobbin is set at a distance of 10 cm from the edge of the hair.

The strand around the bobbin is wound with a half-eight. In this case, the end of the strand is in the left hand, and with the right hand that part of it, which is located on the bobbin, is held. Having made the required number of turns towards the hair roots, the bobbin is secured with an elastic band.

Having twisted all the hair in this way, they proceed to the next stage of their processing: a chemical composition is applied to each bobbin so that it does not fall on the untwisted ends of the hair.

The exposure time is 10-25 minutes (depending on the hair structure).

All subsequent stages of root curling are similar to the steps of a classic perm.

Spiral hair perm using modified bobbins

There are two ways to perform a spiral chemical wave (Fig. 4).

Spiral perm and two ways to do it

A lock of hair is separated in the form of a square (starting from the lower occipital zone), twisted into a bundle and wound in a spiral onto a bobbin. In this case, the turns of the spiral are placed close to each other. The direction of twisting of the bundle and the direction of winding on the bobbin must coincide.

A lock of hair is separated in the form of a square (starting from the lower occipital zone), while it is not twisted into a bundle, but immediately wound in a spiral onto a bobbin, placing the loops close to each other.

Permed hair perm start from the lower occipital zone. Allocate a strand of hair in the form of a square and wind it tightly on a plastic hairpin according to the principle of eight. Further, all stages of the classical perm are performed.

With a corrugated perm, the same curl is obtained as with a perm with braids.

Perm on boomerangs (Fig. 6) allows you to get a voluminous curl. In this case, the bobbins are wound in a checkerboard pattern. All other steps are the same as for a classic perm. The width of the strand should not exceed the diameter of the bobbin.

Permed hair with ring curls

Perm with ring curls (Fig. 7) is used to create volume on short hair. The hair is divided into strands in the form of squares, the size of which depends on the desired effect, and arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The larger the square, the more voluminous the resulting curl will be. The end of the strand is wrapped in a special piece of paper, the strand is twisted into a ring curl and secured with a non-metallic papillote.

Permed hair - Types and types

Perm has a long history and it took a long time before this procedure was perfected. Indeed, quite recently, in all Soviet hairdressing salons, clients were curled in the same manner so that they looked like lambs. Such chemistry looked unnatural and even comical, in addition to everything else, it also burned the hair - in a word, disfigured women as best they could.

Nature has endowed a few representatives of the fair sex lush curls... But adorable curls suit almost everyone - they soften the features of a woman's face, giving them a feminine look. And for those who want to always have beautiful hairstyle with curly hair, there is a wonderful solution - perm, which can completely change the image of a woman and hide some imperfections in the shape of the face.

Chemistry is an auxiliary method for hair styling. She prepares the hair for curling. Recommended for those who daily use curlers or curling irons. In addition, thanks to chemistry, the problem associated with oily hair is eliminated.

Effect curly hair usually lasts for 3-4 months, depending on the quality of the chemical composition. But, nevertheless, you should consider individual characteristics structure of human hair.

Currently, there have been dramatic changes in the field of perming hair. Modern chem. the perm has high-quality highly effective preparations and means that allow any perm improvisation from the smallest to the largest curl. From the previous chemistry, only the principle of hair curling, based on a change in the structure of the hair, remained. Everything that concerns the methods of approach to the procedure and the method of curling, they have improved so much that it has allowed modern chemistry to injure the hair at a minimum level.

There are many types and types of perm for hair:

Types of hair perm

Acid-based curling. Provides long-lasting hold, suitable for all hair types, but has a strong effect on the hair.

Alkaline perm. This type has a softer effect on the hair and gives the curls a natural look, but is not suitable for all hair types and lasts no more than 3 months.

Neutral perm. It has a gentle effect on the hair due to the fact that this method of curling is PH-neutral. Suitable for all hair types, works equally well on all areas of the hair, regardless of the degree of hair damage.

Amino acid perm. Amino acids and proteins contained in the composition, during the procedure, penetrate into the hair and help them to recover sooner.

Types of perm hair

Curling on papillotes creates the effect of naturally curly hair with light wavy curls flowing over each other.

Spiral curling great for long hair. After curling, small spirals twist into rings without twisting with each other.

Perm "On a pigtail" suitable for shoulder-length hair and below. The strands are treated with a chemical composition, braided into small tight pigtails, the ends of which are twisted on bobbins.

Perm "On a hairpin" looks good on shoulder length hair. Hair strands are wound on a hairpin made of non-metallic material.

Perm with twisting of the second bobbin- part of the strand is wound on one bobbin, and then the second is “twisted”. The result is curls of varying sizes.

Perm "Children's". Its purpose is to exclude the effect of the composition on the scalp. The head is covered with a plastic cap, strands are pulled through the holes in it and the usual perm is done.

Basal perm is performed on the part of the strand adjacent to the scalp to create fluffiness at the roots or to obtain curls at the roots of the hair in case the hair that was previously permed has grown back.

Unfortunately, perm has a profound effect on the structure of the hair, which in some cases can lead to serious problems. To minimize the possible adverse effects of perm, follow these simple rules:

do not dye your hair before perming;
if you are sick, stop perming;
Choose products for curling that contain less alcohol and a lot of nutrients;
to wash your hair after a perm, use a special hair shampoo with a perm or mild shampoo for damaged and weakened hair;
to moisturize and strengthen your hair, restore shine and silkiness to it, make hair masks containing useful substances (moisturizing panthenol and keratin, collagens, silk proteins), as well as hot masks using hair oil;
after a perm, the ends of the hair often begin to split, so regularly cut the ends of the hair a little or apply a special cream to the ends of the hair;
For better curl preservation, only use wide-toothed combs.

Perm as a process, a mechanism of change ...

Perming as a process

The mechanism of hair reshaping during perm. Perm is a process by which the hair becomes splendid and pliable, and the strands curl into curls of various sizes and stiffness. A variety of styling is performed on the basis of a perm. The main task of this procedure is to make the hair able to maintain a given shape. The principle of operation of any of the permanents entering the market today is the same as 60 years ago.

Human hair is made up of keratin, a water-insoluble protein that contains spindle-shaped cells. In turn, keratin consists of amino acids, one of which is cystine, which stabilizes the structure of the protein, but under the action of perm drugs, it breaks down at the site of the cis-tine bond:

S - CH2 - CH (NH2) - COOH

After breaking this bond, the hair becomes pliable. Since the hair is wrapped around bobbins, in cross-section they take the shape of an ellipse. It is known that straight hair in cross-section is round, wavy has the shape of an ellipse, and very curly hair has a flattened ellipse (Fig. 82).

To restore the elasticity of the hair, oxidation should be performed, for example, with a weak 1-3% solution of hydrogen peroxide or a ready-made fixer. In this case, the cystine connection is restored. However, due to the hydrolysis of keratin amino acids under the action of a perm preparation on them, irreversible processes also occur - a decrease in hair mass.

The chemical process takes place at pH = 9 - 11; the higher the pH of the composition, the stronger it acts on the hair. Hair swells faster, cystine ruptures occur faster S-S connections, but also more active is the hydrolysis of hair amino acids. Therefore to

The choice of exposure time and concentration of the drug should be approached individually, depending on the Hair, Their structure, condition (dry, oily, normal), from the effect of oxidative dyes on the hair.

Perm stages. There are three stages of perm. On the First stage They produce a chemical effect using formulations and a physical effect using bobbins. These two processes are called plasticization.

On the Second stage They produce a chemical effect - they fix the newly formed bonds with the help of a fixer.

On the Third stage Neutralize - hardening of keratin.

The principle of a perm. The strength of the hair is ensured by the presence of double-grain bridges that create an internal bond in the keratin chains and give the hair its shape.

IN first phase Perm is a chemical deoxidation process. The deoxidizer brings hydrogen into the hair, which breaks apart disulfide bridges. During this phase, chemical action takes place.

In second phase Cheating occurs. Hair changes shape when wrapped on bobbins. The torn double-grain bridges in the keratin chains are displaced and the hair takes on the shape of a bobbin. In this phase, mechanical action occurs.

IN third phase there is a Fixation.

Oxygen is released due to the oxidizing agent contained in the fixative. Combining with hydrogen, it rebuilds disulfide bridges. The hair is fixed in a new shape. Its integrity and strength returns to it, but in a new form (Fig. 83). During this phase, chemical action takes place.

The ideal percentage of deoxidation is 30% of destroyed two-sided bridges, which allows you to get an elastic curl and maintain the quality of the hair. On average, this means that every third bridge must be broken. For this, it is very important to choose the right chemical composition and observe the holding time precisely. For example, if you choose too strong a chemical composition or increase the holding time, the hair will become sensitive and will not hold its shape well. Conversely, if you choose a weak chemical composition or shorten the holding time, the curl will be very weak, and such a perm will last for a very short time.

Alkalinity and acidity of solutions. The chemical indicator of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution is expressed in terms of pH. PH scale includes

Changes values from 0 to 14; pure water, considered a Neutral Substance, has a value of 7 in the middle of the scale. A solution with a pH value below 7 is Acid, and a pH value above 7 is Alkaline. An alkaline solution causes the hair to soften and swell, while an acidic solution shrinks and hardens. There are instruments and paper indicators with a special composition for determining the pH of various solutions. So, when a piece of paper soaked in nitric acid salts is immersed in an alkaline medium, its darkening is noted. In an acidic environment, the color change is not so strong or not at all. If you wet your hair with water and check the pH, then the resulting indicator in the range from 4.4 to 5.5 will correspond to the norm of a weakly acidic reaction. Perm formulations have a pH of about 10 with an alkaline shift. The acidity index in neutralizing substances is about 3, this indicator is located in the acidic part of the scale. Until the master examines the condition of the client's hair and has data on previous cosmetic procedures, one should not use solutions with a pH closer to 7. Lack of awareness can lead to damage to the client's hair.

Alkaline perm. The main active ingredient of an alkaline perm formulation is ammonium thioglycolate, a chemical compound formed by the reaction of ammonia with glycolic acid, the pH of the alkaline formulation of a perm lotion is usually 8.2-9.6, depending on the amount of ammonia. This composition penetrates the hair faster than an acid-balanced one. Sometimes an alkaline perm is done using a water perm, and some hair requires a plastic hood, while others do not.

The advantages of an alkaline perm include Strong curls (usually last longer); the possibility of processing at room temperature.

Alkaline perm is used to style hair that is difficult to process, as well as to get a curl if the client has previously turned out to be too weak a permanent.

Acid-balanced perm. The main active ingredient in acid-balanced formulations is glyceryl monotiglycolate. Its pH is lower than that of the alkaline composition. This formulation is softer on the hair and usually produces less tight curls than an alkaline cold curl. The acid-balanced lotion has a pH of approximately 4.5-6.5, the composition penetrates into the hair more slowly than alkaline, so the hair treatment lasts longer. The heat used in this case can be of two types: from the chemical reaction itself (exotherm-

Czech method); from an external source - usually a climazon or infrared bottle (endothermic method).

Recently, new acid-balanced formulations have been developed that allow perm at room temperature. They have a slightly higher pH than normal ones, and their active ingredient is the same.

The advantages of an acid-balanced perm are softer curls and longer, but controlled processing times. An acid-balanced perm is done if the hair is naturally fragile or dyed; in order to get curls or waves close to natural, perm is the basis of the hairstyle. The disadvantage is that acid-based perm is less durable than the classic (alkaline-based), after 4-6 weeks the hair becomes less lush.

Composition of neutralizers. Neutralizers for acid-balanced and alkaline perm perform the same function: to fix the curls for a long time. Neutralization is a very important step. If the hair is not properly neutralized, the curl may weaken or develop after shampooing. Basically, neutralizers consist of a relatively small amount of hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent and an acidic pH. Methods of using neutralizers vary.

Neutral perm. Like an alkaline perm, it has a pH of 7.4, but is much more gentle than an acid-based perm.

Scientists developed the method of neutral perm taking into account the fact that the hair has so-called hydrophilic zones (repelling water), which easily absorb excess liquid for perm, in contrast to hydrophobic zones. A neutral perm smooths out these differences. It protects sensitive areas, while healthy areas begin to absorb fluid more actively. As a result, the hair does not experience additional stress, as it does not swell too much. Neutral perm is ideal for clients who have rough hair after perm and need more protection. A special keratin complex even during a perm smooths out damage that has appeared in the stratum corneum and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

Selecting a permanent. The choice of which type of permanent to use (acid-balanced or alkaline) is made based on the type of hair.

Modern means for permanent provide a wide range of choices. There are alkaline formulations for bleached hair and acid-balanced ones - for coarse, unruly hair. Each of them gives excellent results provided the right choice and following instructions.

Preparatory work. Preparatory work for a chemical wave includes:

* Preparation of the workplace;

* Inviting a client to a chair;

* Conducting a dialogue;

* Hand washing and disinfection of instruments;

Preparation of fixtures: two non-metallic bowls (one for the composition, the second for fixing), two sponges (small for the composition, large for fixing), applicators, gloves, a measuring cup, a warming cap and bobbins;

Hair combing and diagnostics: determination of hair condition (natural, dyed, bleached), texture (thick, medium, thin), structure (oily, normal, dry), length: up to 15 cm or more, sensitivity (test: on the bend of the elbow or behind the auricle, apply composition and stand for 5-10 minutes);

Covering the client with linen;

Performing hygienic washing.

All haircuts with a clear, geometric shape are performed prior to perm.

Bobbin types and sizes. Bobbins are concave and straight. The concave bobbins in the center are narrower, towards the ends gradually

Expanding; as a result, the curl is steeper at the end and looser at the hair roots. The diameter of the Straight Bobbin is the same along its entire length, and the curl is even. The bobbin is equipped with an elastic band (elastic band) attached to one end and secured to the other when the hair is already wound.

When choosing the size of the bobbin, the desired number of curls and the physical characteristics of the hair must be taken into account. The number of waves, curls and splendor of the hair are determined by the master and the client in a preliminary conversation. The type of hairstyle depends primarily on the size of the bobbins, their number and placement on the head. When choosing a bobbin size, hair characteristics such as length, bounce and texture are taken into account, with the latter being the most important. So, with a rough texture and good elasticity, you need to divide the hair into small strands and take large bobbins. Medium texture and firmness requires dividing the hair into medium strands; bobbins should also be of medium size. With a fine texture and poor elasticity, you should divide the hair into smaller strands than with an average texture; bobbins are taken from small to medium to prevent hair damage. To curl the hair on the back of the head, take the smallest strands and the smallest bobbins. To make a permanent curl on long Hair (longer than 15 cm), they are divided into small strands, rolled evenly and close to the head. The division into small strands promotes uniform wetting.

Permed hair

Many women dream of beautiful curls, but not every nature is given curly hair. One of the options to achieve the desired effect is a perm.

Many of us, for sure, had a chance to go through the disappointment of the performed "classic" perm. Spoiled, incomprehensible hair, sticking out in all directions and one dream - to cut it all as soon as possible. Now there are opportunities to minimize the adverse effects of chemistry on the hair, it is now possible to choose a perm not only in terms of external indicators, but also according to the type of your hair.

True, a lot will depend on the wizard who will make you a perm. From my own experience, I can say that my very first curl was the very first one. It was done with a soul, but in completely unthinkable conditions, the most common "Lock". I could not achieve more of this result, which is a pity.

A real professional will definitely make an analysis of your hair type, and will select a perm in accordance with the results. For example, a gentle acid perm is suitable for tired hair. Unlike conventional chemistry, acid curling has a pH value between 6 and 7, which is almost the same as the natural acidic protective covering of skin and hair. This means that acid curling won't tire your hair too much. If you have sensitive scalp, a biological perm containing sulphides is suitable for you and is very gentle on the scalp. Regular chemicals are only suitable for healthy or very fine hair. Its only advantage is that it lasts at least a widow longer than any other curling option.

And, nevertheless, the choice is yours.

So, what you need to consider when making a choice:

Negative points:

Any hair requires care and attention, perm does not relieve you of the hassle of styling and grooming, rather the opposite. Despite the fact that sparing options for perm have now been developed, nevertheless, the hair is under stress and negative effects and needs restorative treatment. Permed hair requires gentle combing and styling.

The gentle perm lasts less than the classic one.

In many ways, success will be determined by the professionalism of the master. He will not only make a high-quality perm, but will also help you decide on the choice of the type of perm, depending on the structure of your hair, their health, on the expected size of the curls and their stiffness. If you are not sure about the master, you risk ruining your hair and mood.

There are a lot of undesirable points that can nullify the results. More on this later.

You may need to color your hair, as it can still lose its original color.

If you live in an area with a hot, dry climate, it can also be bad for your hair. They will require more careful maintenance.

Consistency. If you change your mind, you will have to wait a long time until your hair becomes natural, and perhaps part with the stubborn part of it.

And now for the positive aspects:

If you have a humid climate, and at the same time you like curls, you should choose a perm, since in the rain, in damp weather, chemically curled curls will only be clearer, which cannot be said about curls laid on curlers or a curling iron.

Perming hair can be done less frequently.

Hair becomes more "manageable".

If you have greasy hair, chemistry will dry them.

Perming adds volume to the hair.

Consistency. This can also be a positive quality if you make the right choice.

If you unbearably want to do chemistry and it just makes you feel calmer, do it, taking into account all the necessary information for making the right choice.

Do not perm if:

your hair is weak, sore and needs restorative treatment.
your body is weakened by illness or stress.
you are pregnant or are taking hormonal drugs that affect the hormones in your body, so to speak, creating the effect of "imaginary pregnancy".
you are breastfeeding.
you have critical days.
you have high blood pressure, if it is low, try to raise it by drinking a cup of coffee.
in a room where perm is performed less than 24 ° C in winter and 22 ° C in summer.
you are allergic to the drug.
you have recently shaded or dyed your hair. After dyeing your hair, you need to wait 2-3 weeks with a perm. Spend that time doing some intense hair care.
the day before, you treated your hair with a composition containing metal or ursol (for example, "Hair Color Restorer", etc.)
you constantly use products containing silicones. If it is a conditioner shampoo, the silicones it contains will dissolve in water, just tell your hairdresser to remove the remaining product with an exfoliating shampoo. Read more about silicones below.

Perm "killers"?

Silicones in combination shampoos

(The material is based on the book "500 Hairstyles and Makeup Tips. Pro Tips")

Products called Two-in-one (two products in one bottle) are becoming more and more popular. Are they not to blame for the failed perm?

Silicones are different

1. Water-soluble silicones form stable lather and are specially used in shampoos. They are not deposited in the hair.

2. Silicone oils enhance shine and make hair easier to comb. They are found in rinses, medications, and many combination products. These oils do not dissolve in water, but can be washed off with shampoo. With frequent use, they build up in the hair.

3. High polymer silicones bond split hair ends. Silicones, especially those found in the hair tip care liquid, are deposited in the form of a dense film on the hair and are difficult to remove.

Weak perm, boring coloring and hair hanging limply after each wash - these difficulties are faced by many women. But few know how to deal with it.

Meanwhile, the use of combination products has made hair care easier. Shampoo and conditioner in one bottle is a wonderful discovery. Time is saved, and often this type of hair care e0e is cheaper. Unsurprisingly, two-in-one products currently have around 15% market share. However, the growing popularity of these products intimidates many hairdressers. "Perming, dyeing and toning the hair is no longer the same as before. Hairdressers are complaining more and more often," says B. Müller, chairman of the board of the Central Union of German Hairdressers. Hairdressers suspect that silicone in many products is the culprit.

Silicones are widely used in hair care products and are inherently harmless. In many combination shampoos, their proportion is negligible. The droplets of silicone deposited on the hair make it softer, shinier and easier to style. However, with constant use of the shampoo, more and more silicone droplets are deposited on the hair, which form a film and close the pores. Further types of chemical treatment, for example, toning or curling, can no longer affect the hair in the desired way. Above all, gentle Thin hair become heavy, and the perm does not hold on them.

H. Daniel from the Union of Hygienic and detergents to protect new shampoos from attacks, cites in-house trials and studies in New Zealand and the Scandinavian countries that found no deterioration in the quality of perm and toning. But, since the research was very recent and the results of longer trials have not yet been obtained, the doubts of the hairdressers seem to be justified.

Undoubtedly, certain types of silicones are always deposited on the hair. Silicones are specially introduced into the liquid for the care of the ends of the hair to achieve just such an effect. Therefore, if you intend to perm, do not often use products containing silicones.<:>

the combination shampoo should not be used daily, but not more often than twice a week. The rest of the time, use your regular shampoo.
you need to buy a combination shampoo in accordance with the type of hair and spend a small amount for each wash.
for washing delicate fine hair only in exceptional cases, you can use combined shampoos. Hair quickly becomes covered with silicone and becomes flaccid.
For hair saturated with silicone, the cosmetic industry produces special neutralizers that prevent the deposition of silicone on the hair. These products are convenient for those who do not want to hesitate with a perm.
When asking a hairdresser to do a perm, toning or coloring, be sure to tell him about the previous hair care.

About a perm

What is a perm?

Perm is the general name for the process, as a result of which the hair acquires splendor and pliability, the strands curl into curls of various sizes and stiffness.

What happens to hair when permed?

The substance of the hair softens under the action of an acid (thioglycolic), its natural sulfur compounds dissolve. At this stage of curling, the hair takes on a new shape with the help of curlers or papillotes and is fixed in it.

Which perm is right for your hair?

It depends entirely on their thickness and condition.

It is believed that the thinner the hair, the more demanding it is on perms, since thin hair itself is soft, weak and sagging quickly. Therefore, the curler must be strong enough to fix fine hair in a new shape. Thick thin hair is inherently stronger and better retains its shape, so there is enough "lighter" chemistry for them. The classic curl is best for healthy hair. If done correctly, it lasts from three to six months. True, it is not harmful to the hair, therefore, in order for them to retain their shine and healthy appearance, you have to use special rinses and balms.

If you have a sensitive scalp, it is better to choose a biowave, which instead of thioglycolic acid contains sulfide and acts on the hair and scalp gently and sparingly. The new product is pleasant for the skin: foul-smelling and burning ammonia is not included in its composition. Instead, natural urea is used, under the influence of which the hair swells before curling. This substance is almost odorless and does not pollute the environment. But all the same, no long-term perm can do without hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent, which is part of the cream for bleaching hair. And this operation also tires the hair.

For tired hair, chemistry with an acid base is suitable. In contrast to the alkaline composition for classical perm, the acid composition has a pH of + 6-7, which is approximately equal to the pH value in the anti-acid coating of hair and skin, which naturally facilitates the penetration of acids into their structure. The disadvantage of an acidic composition is that it is less stable than an alkaline one. A perm lasts about half as long as a conventional perm with a classic composition, about 4-6 weeks. Unfortunately, acid perm is not suitable for all hair types. So, for example, it is useless to try to do an acid perm on the so-called strong hair - smooth and so straight that after each attempt to make waves, they return to their previous state. They simply do not accept the chemical curling fluid. If your waves do not hold at all, ask your hairdresser to test your hair with a special device or just do a test curl on one strand.

Finally, neutral perm - new. It has a neutral pH value, is less damaging to the scalp and works equally well on all areas of the hair. There are areas on the head of every person where the hair is either too rebellious or damaged. Thus, one part of the hair lends itself well to perm, while the other does not. And the consequence of this is an uneven curl, often without shine. Neutral perm has an even effect on the hair and is suitable for all hair types. Ideal for those looking to perm on their own as well, it is sold as a wave foam with integrated nutrients. A special keratin complex even during a perm smooths out the damage that has appeared on the stratum corneum and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

When making your choice, consult a professional hairdresser. It will help you figure out what is right for you.

TYPES OF CHEMICAL CREWS

Curling on papillotes

This type of curling creates the effect of naturally curly hair, creates light wavy curls.

For curling on papillotes top hair divided by "steps". This gives the hairstyle additional flexibility. The hairdresser separates the correspondingly wide strands and winds them on large papillotes. You need to arrange them randomly. Hair strands should be curled in the same direction, but not parallel. This will create a picture of beautifully flowing, naturally curly hair. Then, curling agents are applied. It is selected taking into account the structure and condition of your hair.

Spiral curling

Perfect for long hair, but can also be done up to the earlobe.

The peculiarity of the spiral "chemistry" is in the form of curls. Long hair is twisted in small strands into small spirals. After curling, they curl in rings without twisting with each other. The same effect is achieved by a hairdresser with a regular curling, if he first twists individual strands into bundles. Spiral chemistry is recommended to dry at room temperature or with a hairdryer with a diffuse nozzle. It acts as a filter, allowing air to pass through many small holes, and does not tangle your hair.

Perm "on a pigtail

Suitable for shoulder-length hair and below. The peculiarity of this curling is that strands braided into small tight pigtails, the ends of which are twisted on bobbins, are subjected to chemical treatment. But you can also twist the whole braid. This achieves an interesting effect.

Perm "on a hairpin

Looks good on shoulder length hair.

The peculiarity of this curl is that the strands of hair are wound on a hairpin made of non-metallic material.

Perm with twisting of the secondoklyushki

The peculiarity of performing this type of perm is that part of the strand is wound on one bobbin, and then the second is "twisted". The result is curls of varying sizes.

Perm for children

The purpose of performing a "baby" perm is to exclude formulations on the scalp and hair roots.

Such a perm is performed as follows. The head is covered with a plastic cap. With a regular crochet, strands are pulled through the holes in the plastic cap made with the same crochet. Next, the usual perm is done.

Perm "Gemini

This type of perm has a curl shape: half of the strand has curls in the form of vertical curls, and half in the form of horizontal curls.

Root perm

It is used in cases when it is necessary to perm the part of the strand adjacent to the scalp, for example, to create fluffiness at the roots or to obtain curls at the hair roots in the event that hair that has previously been permed has grown back. The length of the strand to be curled is optional.

Advice:

For the purpose of preliminary determination of the intended shape of the curl and appearance hairstyles with the use of non-traditional types of perm, you can perm by moisturizing the hair strands with plain water with the addition of beer in a 1: 1 ratio or with the addition of citric acid(add citric acid on the tip of a knife to 1/2 cup water).

A few hours after performing a perm, the hair should be rinsed with acidified water (a tablespoon table vinegar per liter of water);

Do not comb your hair on the day of curling;

For 2-4 days, do not wash your hair or subject it to heat treatment, for example, it is not recommended to use a hair dryer, heat rollers, etc.

Do not use electric tongs;

Do not brush your hair. For this more suitable a hairbrush or comb with sparse teeth;

Do not dry your hair, try not to get into direct sunlight, after bathing (in salt or chlorinated water), be sure to rinse your hair;

In order to improve the hair structure, do not use urine therapy, as the curl may soon "develop";

Use special nourishing shampoos and conditioners to wash your hair;

It is advisable to conduct a health and recovery course for hair.

Gentle hair wash. Ideal for washing a super mild shampoo for damaged hair after a perm or washing with a conditioner shampoo. Hair breaks less as it becomes more elastic. Lathering with shampoo is necessary for the scalp and hair roots. For long hair, it is enough to cleanse the remaining shampoo flowing down the hair.

Recovery at night. The effect of chemicals during curling affects not only the outer, but also the inner structure of the hair. Protein compounds disappear, which give the hair strength and at the same time make the hair elastic. This results in dry, brittle hair without shine. A special course of treatment in ampoules restores damaged hair within seven days. Ampoules are used as follows: the liquid from the entire ampoule is applied to dry hair in the evening and combed. During the night, it will be absorbed into the hair and begin to rebuild the broken joints. Rinse your hair well in the morning.

The course of treatment in between cases. Instant action, ideal for women who are short on time. To do this, simply sprinkle the hair with a moisturizing liquid. An amazing double effect: nutrients are introduced into dry hair and at the same time the curl is "refreshed" by means of massage. For hair especially affected by perm, a nutrient spray should be applied daily.

Regular energy saturation. Regardless of whether the hair looks faded after a perm or not, it should be rinsed well after each wash. Hair masks should be done after every 3 or 4 hair washes. Newer perm products contain light nutrients such as moisturizing panthenol and hair-promoting keratin, collagens and silk proteins. They also add elasticity to the curls.

Soft styling is acceptable. This applies mainly to long hair. Be warned: the hot air of a hair dryer is poison. Blow dry your hair only with warm air using a diffuser attachment, otherwise the hair will become tangled and the curls will not be able to curl. New: drying under an infrared lamp - just like in a hairdresser. A more gentle drying method is difficult to imagine. If you want to make fashionable "big waves", roll large strands of hair on the preheated "Soft Styler" rollers. The advantages of this method: the hair remains dry, the curlers are cooled for 20 minutes and do not need clips or hairpins.

The magnificent effective remedy- hot oil. This is the latest innovation: it strengthens the hair without leaving any traces of grease. Its secret lies in a new combination of keratinate and protein hydrolysate ingredients and thermal action. Closed bottles with an oily liquid must be heated for 2 minutes in hot water, then uncorked and inserted into damp hair. Thanks to the warmth, the ingredients are evenly distributed on the scalp and work better on the hair. Let the oil soak a little and then wash it off with shampoo. Hair becomes healthier and more elastic thanks to this treatment.

Natural oils are the most valuable find for hair.

The technology of performing a classic horizontal chemical wave

Divide your head into zones. Draw a parting from ear to ear through the parietal zone, the distance from the edge of the hair growth should be equal to the width of the bobbin. Draw the next part also from ear to ear. The distance from one parting to another along the central vertical parting should be equal to the size of the bobbin.

Curl hair on bobbins from the area near the face. Select a thin strand in the center of the zone with vertical parting and wind it around the bobbin. The next strand for wrapping is under the wrapped one. The strand is twisted in the opposite direction relative to the previous bobbin. So wind the entire zone in one direction and then in the other direction.

After winding up the zone near the face, move on to the next zone behind it, and so on.

Start curling hair on bobbins from the area near the face.

General view of the classic horizontal perm before applying the composition

Type of chemical hair curling "chess"

Hair when performing a perm "chess": short.

Chess perm tools: bobbins, ponytail comb.

Skill Level: Requires bobbin winding skills.

The chess method is more suitable for women with short hair (up to 15 cm) who want to style unruly hair (curls).

After curling, the hair looks natural and fits well in a short haircut.

Chess perm technology

First, you need to accurately determine the zones that allow you to wind 3-4 or 5 bobbins. The number of bobbins depends on their length and thickness.

You need to wind the hair on the bobbin in different directions, which gives the stability of the hair in the hairstyle. This method is suitable for all types of hairstyles and for renewing the "old" perm.

After winding on the bobbins, apply the composition according to the standard technique, withstand the time. Fix the hair. Neutralize hair.

Perm methods

Hair curling can be divided according to the type of chemical composition with which the hair is treated. Our mothers and grandmothers curled their hair using acid and alkaline permanent curling. These methods are still relevant, in addition, acid and alkaline perms stay on the hair for as long as possible - from six months or more.

Acid perm. The curling preparation penetrates into the hair without revealing its outer scales. Thus, a very tight curl is obtained. However, if you have thin and soft hair, this type of curling is contraindicated for you - the curls will quickly lose their shape and stretch out at the roots. For owners of sensitive scalp and dry brittle hair, this type of chemistry is also not suitable, it will completely finish the hair, and you will have to cut your hair very short and treat your hair with masks.

Alkaline perm is less resistant, lasts up to 3 months. The curls are elastic and look natural. Unlike acid curling, here the preparations penetrate into the hair, revealing its outer scales. This treatment is milder on the hair, but still not suitable for many hair types. If your hair is straight, stiff and heavy, then it will become even less resistant and last for about a month. Alkaline curls are cheaper than acid ones.

Neutral perms have a long history of softening properties and are suitable for all hair types. The chemical composition of the drug includes allantoin, the curls are strong and elastic, the curling itself is relatively stable, it will last from three months to six months, depending on your hair type.

Amino acid perm contains amino acids and proteins in the preparation. They nourish and heal hair, which helps to minimize the negative effects of chemicals on hair. Curls are soft and natural looking. Unfortunately, curls are short-lived. This method is not suitable for coarse, heavy or long hair. curls will develop very quickly under the weight of your weight

Curling "Silk Wave". The preparation contains silk proteins, which take care of the hair and do not spoil the hair structure. Even bleached hair after such "chemistry" looks healthier.

Biowave. The biowave does not include ammonia, hydrogen peroxide and thioglycolic acid; they are replaced with a preparation similar to hair molecules that connect the sulfur bridges of the hair. Curling based on such preparations gives hair not only long-lasting curls, but also gives it a completely natural and healthy look. There are several technologies for biowaving, for example, Angel Curls or the Italian technology using bamboo extract.

Japanese perm with lipid-protein complex LC2 is recommended for weakened hair. It is more durable than silk, and a biphasic lipid-protein complex regulates hair moisture, maintaining shine and elasticity. The cost is about the same as for the "silk wave".

American perm is ideal for medium length hair. The difference between American curling and other types is that it uses special complex designs from Olivia Garden curlers.

Root chemistry is an excellent solution for short and shoulder length hair that lacks volume. Also, root chemistry is done when the permanently curled hair has grown considerably. Root chemistry for straight hair will lift the hair, for example, at the back of the head. The effect of such a curling is lost as the hair grows, and at the roots it will be noticeable in a month. Curling at the ends of the hair is an excellent solution for fine, sparse hair, trimmed in steps or cascades. Hair gains lushness and serves as an excellent base for creating hairstyles.

What a good master should do before chemistry

There are two methods of perm: direct and indirect.

Direct method. Each strand is moistened with a chemical composition and wound on bobbins according to the classical scheme.

Indirect method. Wet hair is wound on bobbins according to any scheme (Fig. 2, b, c), and then moistened with a chemical composition.

Fig. 1Scheme of hair wrapping with a perm:

a - classic;

b - directional;

c - variable

In this case, wetting the hair with the composition is carried out in three steps:

* a small amount of the composition is applied to the hair to soften it slightly;

* the average amount of the composition is applied to the hair in order to thoroughly moisten it;

* carry out control wetting of hair.

The composition begins to be applied from the lower occipital zone.

After choosing a method for performing a perm, start winding the hair on bobbins, while taking into account the following:

the width of the strand should not exceed the length of the bobbin;

the thickness of the twisted strand should not be more than the diameter of the bobbin;

strands must be pulled strictly perpendicular to the head.

One perm requires 50g of the composition.

Then fixation is performed by laying a tourniquet from a napkin along the edge line of hair growth so that the fixer does not fall on the face.

Currently, there are two types of fixer available: ready-made and concentrated.

After the foam has settled, the bobbins are untwisted and the fixer is applied to the ends of the hair for another 5 minutes. Then the fixer is washed off with clean water.

After that, the final work is performed: neutralization with a special compound, styling, haircut, drying, etc.

Permed with braids and bobbins

Wet hair is divided into zones, as shown in fig. 2, a.

Fig. 2 Perm with braids and bobbins:

a - division of hair into zones;

b - braided pigtails with ends twisted on bobbins;

c - the resulting hairstyle; arrows indicate the direction of hair separation

The zone of the second row of braids should be slightly wider than the zone of the first row, and the third - wider than the zone of the second row.

Thus, the hair is processed row by row to the top of the back of the head.

Hair strands in the temporomandibular and parietal zones are braided into thicker braids (3-3.5 cm).

At the end of the perm, the hair is washed with a therapeutic emulsion and combed with a comb with large teeth.

Hair is dried naturally or with a hair dryer.

The hairstyle turns out to be natural, with large curls.

This combined chemical permanent method is recommended for those who do not use curlers to curl their hair.

Root perm

Fig. 3 Root perm (a) and

The essence of the root method of curling is that not all hair is wound, but only part of it at the root, leaving the ends of the strands straight or keeping the same curling on them.

The exposure time is 10-25 minutes (depending on the hair structure).

All subsequent stages of root curling are similar to the steps of a classic perm.

Spiral perm using modified bobbins

There are two ways to perform a spiral chemical wave (Fig. 4).

Fig. 4 Spiral perm (a) and two ways of performing it (b, c)

A corrugated perm (Fig. 5) starts from the lower occipital zone. Allocate a strand of hair in the form of a square and wind it tightly on a plastic hairpin according to the principle of eight. Further, all stages of the classical perm are performed.

Fig. 5 Corrugated perm (a) and

the resulting hairstyle (b)

With a corrugated perm, the same curl is obtained as with a perm with braids.

Perm on boomerangs

Fig. 6Perms on boomerangs

Perm with ring curls

Fig. 7 Perm with ring curls

1.Wash your head.

2. Highlight the hairline into zones.

3. To start winding from the occipital zone. The width of the strand should not exceed the length of the bobbins. We wind the hair from the top of the head in all directions. After winding, apply the lotion on the bobbins and give the holding time. After that, rinse the hair with water directly on the bobbins and apply the fixer concentrate to determine the holding time.

4. Remove the bobbins and wash the hair well with water.

5. Remove the bobbins and cut the ends of the hair.

Remember that the partings that highlight the zones and strands should be clear, and the strands should be even and well combed. This subsection lists several popular wrapping options for short and long hair. There may be many more. Your imagination and experience will help you develop and apply a wide variety of wrapping methods to get interesting curls.

Curl options for short hair... To perform curling with the classic bobbin arrangement (Fig. 7.2), the head is divided into zones. The parietal zone is separated with a U-shaped parting. Two vertical partings along the width of the U-shaped parting highlight the middle part of the occipital zone. From one ear to the other, a segmental parting is carried out through the crown of the head. It is necessary to ensure that the width of the temporal zone corresponds to the length of the bobbin. On the crown (along the width of the U-shaped parting in the middle part of the occipital zone), a strand is separated with a horizontal parting, combed out perpendicular to the head or slightly away from oneself and wrapped around the bobbin, slightly moving it to the right and left, so that the hair is evenly distributed. In parallel with this strand, the next one is combed out in the middle of the occipital zone and wound in the same way. So, in a row, all the hair of the zone is isolated and wound up to the edge line of hair growth on the neck. Similarly, the hair of the lateral parts of the occipital zone, the temporo-lateral strands and strands of the parietal zone are wound on the bobbins.

Fig. 7.2. The classic arrangement of bobbins when performing perm

To increase the splendor of the strands of the parietal zone, you can alternately wind strands of different thicknesses.

Wrap direction:

occipital zone - back down;
temporal and lateral zones - down;
the parietal zone - to the face.

This direction of wrapping is due to the natural growth of hair.

Checkerboard cheat it is used for wide temporomandibular zones. The parietal and middle occipital zones are twisted as described above; on the rest of the head, the bobbins are staggered.

Partial perm used for short haircuts... Looks natural and gives the hair on the soundboard a lushness. The wrapping is performed according to any of the previously indicated schemes, but the bobbins are located up to the line of the temporal and occipital tubercles. For a more natural looking curl, do not curl when going from straight to curly hair. short hair the occipital and temporal zones into small bobbins.

Safe "baby" perm does not affect hair roots and scalp. It is applied when sensitive skin... To complete it, the person's head is covered with a plastic cap (for example, for highlighting) and all strands of hair are pulled through the previously made holes with a metal crochet hook. Further, the curling is performed in the usual way.

Curl options for long hair... Long hair provides more options for giving it of various shapes curl. In addition, perm in this version takes on the value of the main styling. The rules for styling long hair with a perm have already been given above.

When vertical perm(fig. 7.3) all bobbins are placed vertically. The wrapping starts from the lower occipital zone, the partings are vertical. The pull is carried out from oneself. To make the curls look natural and not merge, you need to wind the strands in different directions.

Fig. 7.3. Vertical perm

Spiral perm(fig. 7.4) gives a nice spring-like curl. The wrapping is performed on special bobbins, in this case, we begin to twist the strand from the root. You can use ordinary bobbins, having previously twisted the strand into a tourniquet. In this case, wind the strand from the end of the strand.

Fig. 7.4. Spiral perm:
a - the order of winding on the bobbin; b - the location of the bobbins on the head

The wrapping starts from the lower occipital zone, the size of the base of the strand is about 2x2 cm.Gradually we move to the upper occipital zone. Then the temporal zones are wound in the same order. The parietal zone can be wound in the usual way.

Hairpin perm(fig. 7.5) - wet hair is carefully combed and divided into zones, as indicated above. Then, highlighting the bunches of hair, they are wound on a hairpin made of non-metallic material. The ends of the hair can be secured with a regular elastic band. Further, a perm is performed using conventional technology. The shape of the resulting curl will resemble a "snake".

Fig. 7.5. Hairpin perm:
a - the order of screwing on the hairpin; b - general view of the hairstyle

Pigtail perm(fig. 7.6). Wet hair is carefully combed and divided into zones. Then the bundles of hair are isolated and braided into tight braids, the ends of which are twisted on bobbins in the usual way. You can twist the whole pigtail onto the bobbin to the base, or just the tip. Further, the perm is performed according to the usual technology. The effect of the finished styling is small corrugated strands at the root and a curl at the end of the strand.

Fig. 7.6. Pigtail perm

Root perm(fig. 7.7) is most often used when you want to create more puffiness or curls at the hair roots, without affecting the ends of the strands. The length of the strand that is curled can be any length.

To perform this curling, the non-curling part of the strand is wrapped with a strip of moisture-proof material, and then the strand, starting from the end, is wound around the bobbin in the usual horizontal way. In this case, only the part of the hair that is adjacent to the scalp is moistened with the composition.

Perm for two bobbins named conditionally, since there are many options for winding on two or even several bobbins.

So, according to the first option, half of the strand is in the form of vertical curls, and the other is horizontal. To perform curling, the wet hair is combed and divided into zones. The strands of the parietal zone are wound on the bobbins in the usual horizontal way, starting from the end of the strand. Then, along the edge line of hair growth, a strand is isolated, divided into bundles, which are twisted into bundles and wound on a bobbin, starting from the hair roots in a spiral towards the end of the strand. Twisting half of the strand and securing it with an elastic band, wind the other half of the strand onto the other bobbin in the usual horizontal way, starting from the end of the strand. Thus, using two bobbins for each strand, wind all the hair in the direction from the edge of the hairline to the crown in all zones.

Fig. 7.8. Perm for two bobbins

According to the second option (Fig. 7.8), the strands are distinguished with horizontal parting. They begin to wind up from a more convenient area (from the parietal or upper occipital zone towards the neck). The strand is pulled up and wound from the end by one bobbin. Then, before reaching the root of 7-10 cm (depending on the total length), a second bobbin of a smaller diameter is placed on the inner side of the strand and continues to wind on two bobbins. The effect is that the root has a fairly large natural curl, the ends are tighter.

According to the third option, the strands are also distinguished by horizontal parting. On one bobbin, a strand is wound from the root to a length of 8-15 cm. Then, after combing the strand, they continue to wind the strand on the second bobbin, only in the other direction, so that there is no crease. More bobbins can be used. The effect is an even curl along the entire length of the strand.