October 8 in 1906, in the London Beauty Salon before the invited audience of stylists, the German Hairdresser Carl Ludwig Nester, also known as Charles Nestle, demonstrated the first chemical twist for hair.

The son of a shoemaker, born in the city of Schwarzwald Todtnau, Nester began early interest in laying hair and acquired experience in several jobs and students in Europe, where he worked as a hairdresser. It was on these works that Nester first received the idea of \u200b\u200bthe invention of the chemical curling of the hair, which he began to experiment in 1896.

In fact, the first person who created the hair curling method was Marseille Charto, which in 1872 invented a pair of crimping forceps, which, when heated on the gas flame, was applied to the hair, created a two-dimensional wave. The method was relied exclusively in the heat, and as the popularity of the woman was growing, they were looking for new ways to curl their hair.

In 1905, Nester, had his own salon in London, where he continued to engage in new hair curling methods. He combined the graphite method that used heat for hair curling, as well as an older method, which used caustic chemicals for wigs, to develop their own invention. The procedure he has developed was called the method of spiral heat. In it, the hair was impregnated with an alkaline solution (first achieved a mixture of cow urine and water, according to some data), then wrapped the spiral around the metal rods that were connected to the electric heating machine. Metal rods were heated for wet curling, treated with chemical hair.

Nester held his first experiments on his wife Qatarina Libele in his London Salon in front of an audience of impressive stylists. But the method is not deprived of the shortcomings. The process took about six hours and used about 12 2-pound brass rollers. The rollers were incredibly hot - about 212 degrees - and they could burn the head's head. To avoid burns, Nester has developed a bulky system for combating weights created from the suspended chandelier. His first two attempts led to the fact that he completely burned his hair and burned his head his wife. Thanks to his perseverance - and the patience of his wife - Nessel improved his electric car with a constant wave, which began to enjoy broad recognition.

In 1909, Nestersler received a patent for the invention. During World War II, the British concluded a nonstorer to prison, because he was a German, but he fled to New York in 1915, where he opened the hair styling salon on the Eastern 49th street. American women loved their long-term laying, and by 1927 Nester, had branches in the United States, Chicago, Detroit, Palm Beach and Philadelphia, in which about 500 employees worked.

Despite the fact that Nester ultimately lost considerable wealth, which he has accumulated from his invention in the collapse of the stock market in black Friday, its hair fixation method has become a significant achievement.

6.1. History of chemical curvage

Chemical curling is styling for a long time with a change in hair structure with various drugs performed at body temperature.

Based on a chemical curling, a variety of laying is performed.

The main task of this procedure is to make hair capable of keeping the specified form.

The first patents on the cold chemical twist were declared in 1935. During this time, there was a wave performed by a hot way using electric, and later with steam apparatuses. Suggested this way of hair curling in 1905. Karl Nescher. At first, hairdressers such a method was not approved, because the condition of the hair was spoiled. But already in 1908, the method was patented and began to apply quite widely. The procedure was performed several hours due to the cumbersome of the device. In 1910, Nesler improved the device. In 1924, there is a further improvement of the apparatus proposed by Joseph Mayer. The operational qualities of the device during the fulfillment of the service allow it to become very popular.

Appears in the 30s. XX century Chemical preparations initially were intended to straighten the hair of a non-harbor type to facilitate the procedure for combing them. But only after use for having hair for a long time, this agent is widespread. During World War II, the Cold Permanent is becoming popular in the United States, and after the war comes to Europe. The use of such a curling method is gaining universal recognition due to a number of benefits:

• the method does not depend on heat sources (which is safer to work and for hair status);
• using bumps of different diameters, you can get a different curl - from the most elastic to soft and natural;
• simplicity of performance;
• you can curl hair of any length and almost any structure;
• allows you to raise the root strands, as the clamps do not apply, at its base.

In our country, the cold permanent appeared in the 50s. last century. The preparations applied then for a chemical curling had an alkaline environment, a rather high pH indicator and quite aggressively affected the hair. A slightly later preparations for cold chemical curling based on acidic components appeared. They have a pH indicator lower than alkaline compositions (pH 5 - 7), and therefore they were less harmful to hair. However, these drugs did not receive a high assessment of professionals and consumers, as the curling, obtained with their help, although preserved the health of the hair, but held at all long.

6.2. General About chemical twist

Cold Permanent Preparations.

Currently, almost all drugs for chemical permanent are manufactured on the basis of thioorganic compounds or their derivatives. Such drugs allow changing the structure of a hair at a human body temperature. Modern manufacturers produce formulations for today, characterized by a hydrogen indicator of the pH.

Acid preparations For a chemical curler, a pH indicator 5 - 7, which is close to the skin indicator or hair.

Alkaline drugs For a chemical curling, a pH indicator is 8.5 - 9.5 and are most used. They give persistent elastic and durable (can hold up to 6 months. And even more) curl. The main component is thioglycolic acid, the content of which is 6.5%.

In addition, the solution may include the following components:

• ammonia;
• crystalline bora;
• urotropin, which provides a limitation of hair swelling;
• olein alcohol as an emulsifier;
• foaming components;
• methylcellulose;

• water as the main solvent;
• fragrances;
• various biological supplements that ensure hair safety when exposed to a chemically aggressive environment.

Different manufacturers produce formulations for cold permanent of different concentrations and consistency (liquid or gley). In addition, each company has its own biologically active additives that provide a healthy hair glitter after chemical exposure, the possibility of care and maintaining the color of previously colored hair. In addition, it is known that the roasting part of the hair and its tip have a different texture. The root is denser, the end of the hair is loose, scales are raised, possibly a cross-section of the hair. Modern drugs contain so-called care sensors that lay on the tip of the hair, provide a lesser shape change; The royal part changes the form to a greater extent. Thus, throughout the entire length, hair becomes not only well-groomed, but also have a uniform curl.

The disadvantage of alkaline permanent is the selection of sulfide vapor, which can cause headaches, malaise, dermatitis, or of different kind Allergic reactions.

For fixing the curl with an alkaline chemical twist, hydrogen peroxide is used, the concentration of which in the solution should not exceed 3%. Modern fixed is an emulsion based on hydrogen peroxide. Available in concentrated form, for use you need to dissolve with water in a ratio of 1: 1.

Acid Balanced Preparations

Apply on weak and highly painted hair. The main component of the curling solution is a mixture of esters based on amide mercaptocarboxylic acid with pH equal to 4.0 -6.5.

An important advantage of acid curling is the lack of hair swelling. In addition, hair is maintained through the sealing of their structure. In addition, hair after the permanent is less hygroscopic.

Having hair winding requires stronger tension, since it does not softening keratin, but the displacement of sulfur bridges due to physical impact. In addition, the curling requires more time, as to obtain a curl, the composition needs longer to affect the hair.

Physico-chemical processes occurring in the hair during a chemical twist.

If you consider the hair section, then you can see that:

Light hair has round shape,

Curly oval shape.

In order for round hair acquired an oval shape, it affects it in two ways:

1. Physical I.

2. Chemical.

Not only the choice of the drug, but also the distance between each curl.

Recall the structure of the hair. Outer layer:

1. Cuticula - consists of 8-9 layers of scales.

2. Cork (medium layer) - has pigment and keratin chains. They determines the strength of the hair, its structure. Figuratively speaking, the chains are located in parallel to each other and are connected by three types of connections.

- Hydrogen (3) communication Easily destroyed with water and allow you to obtain a short curl when coating on a curler or scrolling of hair during the hairdryer of the hair dryer. At the same time, keratin bonds are shifted, but do not break, the laying retains the form or until the next wash, or at a less long time (multiple combing and moisture weaken the elasticity of curls).

Salt (2) communications are destroyed in an alkaline environment and hair swells.

Sulfur (cystine) communications are destroyed under the influence of chemical composition.

Figure 6.1 schematically shows the physico-chemical processes occurring in the hair during a chemical twist.

Fig. 6.1. Physico-chemical processes in the hair during a chemical twist:
A - straight hair;

b - hair, twisted on the coughs - with physical effects (hair tension), keratin bonds are shifted;

b shows a break of sulfur bridges under the influence of a chemical preparation - hair swells and cystic bond turns into an unstable cysteine;

Perm.
How it was.
History of permanent curling

Permanent curling is an operation providing artificial curls that continue last time. This action has its own history associated with hair care and their decoration. In antiquity, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe Mediterranean, the Greeks were the first to those who curled hair using bronze sticks. This technique together with its taste in hairstyles they passed the Romans.

Calamar.
Greek iron stick

Another example is the inhabitants of Central Africa: they used soaked lianas, which were used to obtain amazing hairstyles that remained on the head for a long time. Moreover, the character of hairstyles changed in every area. In fact, there are many legends where magic hairstyles cannot be distinguished from standard. Nowadays, the techniques used by the ancient Greeks are used in Africa and many other parts of the world, which has not yet reached Western technologies and lifestyle. A different level of hairstyles and hair circulation shows the difference between human societies. In fact, it is in the most civilized social groups that the most advanced technologies are observed.

In Europe, King Louis XVI has given an opportunity for the development of hairdressers and curling techniques. He put into fashion curly wigs, and also supported research and experiments on the hair, which led to the beginning new tradition In hairdresser's art. This French tradition is still known for its taste and masters. In 1800, Marseille Gatly worked in France - who had a new curling technique with an iron stick. He kept this technique secretly until her complete finish. In 1882 this technique It became common everywhere. However, Marcel Gatl can not be considered ancestral permanent curling in her modern form. A modern hairdresser performs a chemical effect on the hair, which allows to use their natural characteristics. He tries to combine these actions with a twist, and creating a hairstyle. Permanent curling is a chain of operations with hair, making them soft, wavy and "deliberately curly", as well as protecting from such external agents as water, heat and humidity.

German Carl-Ludwig Nestersler was the first to use chemical preparations and ammonium solution for hair fixation. He moved to London, where his technique was distributed in the period from 1905 to 1906., Then, in 1907, she reached Paris, and a year later, it became known in Italy. In accordance with the Nester method, the hair should have dipped into a chemical preparation, and then spin into curls to provide a chemical response of ammonium solution. Then the hair was heated by their dipping in the vessel with boiling water, standing behind the client's head. This operation was possible, because at that time the women wore very long hair (about 50-70 cm). However, such a technique was difficult to apply - it was often associated with inconvenience: many customers by the end of the procedure were obtained by burning the scalp. Therefore, both clients and hairdressers belonged to the applying of the permanent skeptically and applied it with reluctance; Many generally refused him. Later, new practical ways were discovered to heat the hair after their dipping in the chemical solution, as a result of which the permanent became popular again. In Paris, Eugene Suter organized courses of a permanent curling technique, anticipating future competition. All companies financed studies in the field of new techniques relating to the iron stick from Marseille. However, some drawbacks persisted, and women did not trust this technique. Permanent envy did not use such success as they are now. The first one who improved the chemical reaction-based nonseler system was Gaston Budon in 1919 due to the help of the great Master of the Rambud, he invented and presented the device that heated the hair treated with a chemical preparation. This device produced the pairs, which came in curlers on flexible tubes. Since the device of Budon still had several drawbacks, other techniques were studied. In 1926, the bills were heated with electricity, thanks to the premises on them not large ticks with electrical resistance inside. Ticks connected with the power generator. Their temperature reached 35 ° C. In order to avoid electrical impact, customers have had to be based on the legs on the insulating material like a wooden footrest. A variety of permanent curler with direct electric heating was an indirect heated curling, also known as accumulation. At the same time it was possible to put mites on curlers. Connections were carried out not through the wire, but through electrical rods. In this case, the insulating material was also required to prevent the blow to electricity. In 1927, it was decided to replace the electric heating using special iron rods. One iron rod had a curle form, and the other is a grip with grooves. The grooves went perpendicular to the iron rod and attached to curlers. It was a sufficiently long process, since the iron rod had to be heated on a special tile to ensure the heating of the bills. In 1932, the system of flannel bags was invented. These bags were wrapped and filled with a solution for curling (sulfates or marble lime). They were installed on curlers and covered with waterproof cloth. If the base composition was made of sulfates, the hair was heated with electricity outside to make the chemical solution contained in the bags and ensure hair heating. If the base preparation was marble lime, the contact of this drug with water and the curiosity was sufficient to ensure heating. In both cases, the bags sometimes burst on the client's head, which led to damage to the scalp. In 1936, the first permanent chemical curling with heating under the influence of electromagnetic induction appeared. Special caps or U-shaped nails were used to cover strands of hair that wrapped on curlers and dipped into a solution for curling. The hair was exposed to electromagnetic waves produced by a remote source without electronic wires. This served as the beginning of the chemical resistance reaction for curling. Such a process did not bring the desired results, and refused it. The new process was wrapping the hair with their subsequent dipping to the base preparation and heating during high-intensity electricity and low voltage. Hair containing chemical salts due to a solution for curling, into which they were dipped, resistance to electricity. As soon as the salts are absorbed, the processing of electricity and heating stopped. From this process refused due to the complexity of its conduct. In 1936, the first wireless appliances with controlled heating appeared. In 1939, the cold twink was opened in the United States. In 1944-45 She was brought to Italy and France. In 1946, warm envy appeared. It was used with adjustable thermal heating. In 1952, a neutral curling appeared. She acted as a cold curling with the use of drugs with various bases.

People tried to crush hair yet with deep antiquity. Egyptians and Romans applied a mixture of a special soil and water on their hair, wrapped her hair on special sticks and dried them for a long time on a hot sun. The curl was obtained, but was short-lived.

The ancient Greeks were also known ways of hair curling. To do this, they used the iron rod - Kalasis. The slaves who performed twigs were called Calamistraces. An experienced Kalasist was very appreciated and held a more privileged position in the host house than other slaves.

Hairdressers Middle Ages owned art curls at wigs. They tightly wrapped hair wig on wooden sticks And for a long time cooked them in an alkaline liquid. As a result, curls were obtained, which preserved the form even when in contact with water. It was the first experience, which marked the beginning of the process, which continues today.

Marseil Graston

The first curling tool invented the Frenchman Grasrat's Frenchman. He constructed tongs, with which it was possible to create an artificial waviness of hair, close to natural. The hot curler technique in the 1880-1890s spread primarily in large cities: London, St. Petersburg, Geneva, Brussels, Vienna. However, this method allowed only short-term waves.

In 1882, in the very center of Paris, he opened his own hairdresser. The curling of the hair, which Marseille offered to its customers, made a sensation.

In 1897, his method was first described in a special journal, and the device for curling "Marseille Tongs" appeared on sale with different diameters of the rod for men and female hairstyles. It was heated in a small furnace. A year later, their creator was already a millionaire, and the tongs were separated worldwide.

The meaning of the new hair curling method was so great that the famous French hairdresser Rena Rambo in his work "curling curls" called the invention of Marseille Grasrat "revolutionizing art of women's decoration hairstyle.

Karl Ludwig Nester.

In 1905, Karl Nessel invented curling with a hot way. However, its method was recognized as contrary to the interests of hairdressers, and therefore did not receive recognition at first. Despite this, in 1908 the method was patented and was used in several salons for a huge board at that time - 5 pounds sterling.

The first chemical curls were fully primitive. Used rude manual heaters weighing 900 G. each. Only in 1908 there was a so-called ceiling apparatus with two hanging electrical heaters of large sizes.

The procedure is then for more than 10 hours. As the apparatus improves, it gradually declined to six, four, finally - two hours. But in that period in fashion there were long hair.

In 1910, Karl Nester entered the market with the first chemical curling apparatus (hot way), which had good consumer qualities and demanded a spiral hatching of hair.

Initially, the permanent was performed using an electrical apparatus, which was then completely repayed by two others: steam and compress.

The development of a chemical curling in a hot way continued only in 1924, when the master of hairdressing services Yuzef Mayer from Karlovy Vary has improved the non-salary apparatus, which made it possible to use a mandatory and to this day a flat screwing system.

In 1935, two patents for hair twists were declared, without a hardware method. The first suggested the chemical permanent hair A.F. Villat. He invented the technique of "cold permanent waves". There is a new term cold curling. " This method had whole line Advantages Before thermal twigs: did not depend on the heating source (for the effects of the drug, the heat of the body); gave the ability to adjust the degree of curl with the help of mutios of different diameters, get the curl of the root of the hair itself; allowed to twist hair different lengths and any structure.

Gradually, he pushed out all previous curling methods and won the West World, reaching the present.

In our country, the chemical curling appeared in large cities in the mid-1950s, and then began to evolve everywhere.

Now the chemical curling is one of the most common services in the hairdressers. Constantly appear new drugs for curling, old ones are improved. Now the hairdresser has a lot of opportunities to fulfill the desired client twist.

Since the process of performing a chemical curling is, first of all, with the interaction of drugs on the hair, it is necessary to very clearly represent what happens with hair under the influence of drugs for a chemical curling.

In 1931, the United States was invented, the so-called disadnight method of Ralph Evans and Everett McDono. At Beauty Show in Chicago, they demonstrated how with the help of rods and sulfide preparations, you can make your hair curly. Chemical twigs were built on the client's head in the cabin and sent home, and he returned to the salon to the salon only. Similar twigs called "Night Wave".

And only in 1938 in the United States Arnold Villate (Arnold F. Willatt), applying a derivative of thioglycolic acid as a reagent - the ammonium thuglicking, invented cold curling, which became the predecessor of modern chemistry. The chemical was finally found, which destroyed the natural structure of the hair and created a new structure, so the hair without any heating apparatuses when sheeping on rods-bills acquired a stable wavy shape, which was fixed using an oxidizing lotion based on hydrogen peroxide. Initially, the whole process occupied several hours at room temperature. In the 30s and 40s, both types of chemical curling (hot and cold) enjoyed in great demand. Even severe half of humanity drew attention to the progressive method.

In the 1970s, an acidic chemical curling was invented, more gently affecting the hair.

Now the process of chemical curling hair takes only 15-30 minutes. The modern beauty industry offers an incredible number of types of long-term curling. How to know, perhaps, what is now progressive super-modern technology, through a certain period of time will also be history.

Initial attempts to twist the hair with various primitive methods led - after a long evolution - to a modern widely used chemical twist.
Chemical curling (permanent) is a transformation for a long time of the hair structure with the help of chemical and physical means to give them the properties that will further facilitate the creation of hairstyles.
In 1905, Karl Nessel invented curling with a hot way. However, its method was recognized as contrary to the interests of hairdressers, and therefore did not receive recognition at first. Despite this, in 1908 the method was patented and was used in several salons for a huge board at that time - 5 pounds sterling.
The first chemical curls were fully primitive. Used rude manual heaters weighing 900 g each. Only in 1908 there was a so-called ceiling apparatus with two hanging electrical heaters of large sizes.
The procedure is then for more than 10 hours. As the apparatus improves, it gradually declined to six, four, finally - two hours. But in that period in fashion were long hair!
In 1910, Karl Nester entered the market with the first chemical curling apparatus (hot way), which had good consumer qualities and demanded a spiral hatching of hair.
Initially, the permanent was performed using an electrical apparatus, which was then completely repayed by two others: steam and compress.
The development of a chemical curler was hot in the way only in 1924, when the master of hairdresser's services, Yuzef Mayer, from Karlovy Vary, improved the Nester's apparatus, which made it possible to use a mandatory and to this day a flat screwing system.
Currently, the electrical devices came out of use and not at all are not used. The disadvantage of electrical and steam apparatuses was a long-lasting client immobility during the procedure due to the direct connection to the heat source. There was also a risk of lesion to the current.
At the present time in some salons, although it is very rare, a compressive permanent is performed. Its characteristic feature is an action based on the principle of temperature reduction: first, after turning on the oven, it is high as possible, and then gradually decreases. The starting temperature is depending on the type of hair and the desired effect - is from 120 to 160 degrees.
Modern methods Almost completely fassed the hair curling with a hot way.
Already at the interval period, attempts were made to perform a permanent, without using heating devices, i.e. Cold way. Like any novelty, the method was adopted with great distrust. But experts, appreciating his dignity, quickly understood that a coup had occurred in the art of curling. After all, the "cold" chemical curling does not require heating, which eliminates the risk of burn; The tools necessary for the procedure are very light, the client does not have to keep a metal kilogram head; The degree of hair winding can be adjusted using rollers with the required thickness; There is the possibility of screwing even very short hair.
In the 50s of the last century, the chemical circle was invented by a warm method. This is the improvement of the "cold" and "hot" permanent, combining the advantages of both ways.
The name is prompted by the temperature of the procedure, which is about 60-80 degrees. On the packages of imported liquids for such a curl, other definitions can also be found: soft, thermal, etc.
The principal difference between the warm curling and its other methods is in the composition of the liquid. This is an advanced liquid for a cold permanent, which acts only at temperatures above 60 degrees. Hence the advantages of the method: no high temperatures (After all, with hot permanent, the hair is boiled in a couple), but at the same time no strong chemical preparations (With cold permanent, too long exposure is fraught with damage and even the destruction of the hair).
So, "warm chemistry" is a weaker and simple procedure that guarantees the best result and at the same time.
Nevertheless, it is not necessary to abuse with a chemical twist. This also applies to the so-called foam and computer permanent, which require experience and appropriate skills. The professionalism of the hairdresser should ensure that the hair will look naturally twisted and non-risen.