Shirt

Author Bachikina E.V.
Size: 48 (52)
Shirt straight silhouette with cuts on the sides, knitted on a manual knitting machine "Neva-5" from p / w yarn 32/2 in 4 additions.
You will need:
550 g of dark blue yarn and 20 g of gray.
Knitting density: 1 cm = 3.217 p. = 4.283 p.
Pattern pattern:

WORK DESCRIPTION

Back: on 175 (187) loops, tie the hem. To do this, push the needles into the PNP through one. The outermost needles must be in the PNP. The rest of the needles are in the RFP. With a throwaway thread, knit 7-8 rows and one row with the main thread in 3 additions with a density of 2.1. Push the remaining needles into the RP and knit 15 more rows at the same density. Then in 4 threads, knit 1 row with a density of 6.0 and 17 rows with a density of 3.0. Remove loads. With a decker, hang the loops of the first row on the needles through one. Hang up weights, weave a waste thread, set the counter to 0.00 and knit the fabric at a density of 3.0. After knitting 20 rows, pick 6 sts on both sides and knit 163 (159) rows. To design the armhole, make reductions 12 times, 1 p. In each 2nd row and then knit straight to the sprout, i.e. 270 p.
If the shirt is knitted on a stooped figure, then the depth of the armhole on the back should be taken not 25 cm (107 p.), But 1.5-2 cm more. When sewing in sleeves, fit these 1.5-2 cm. The depth of the front armhole remains 25 cm.
Close the sprout loops or take on a waste thread in the order of 8 6 4 3 2 and knit 4 more rows straight. Don't forget to mark the middle of the back. Close the shoulder, starting from 280 rows in three steps: 20, 20 and the rest of the loops.

Front: dial 175 (187) sts, tie the hem. Set counter to 0.00 and tie 20 rows at 3.0. Gather 6 sts on both sides and knit to the armhole. I can arrange it according to the description of the back. Tie 167 (163) rows until the clasp, mark the middle. Remove the right half on a waste thread, except for 7 loops from the center, which are left on a half-piece. To do this, needles on the left side to the middle and 7 loops right side put in pnp. Tie 7-8 rows with a waste thread and cut off. Left side loops and 7 right side loops remained on the machine. For the remaining loops, add 16 stitches and knit 244 (240) rows. Mark the center line and the inflection line (see drawing). Close the neck loops or take on a waste thread in this order 31 4 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 (32 4 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1) and knit 18 (22) rows straight. Close the shoulder according to the description of the back.
Put the loops of the right side, taken on a waste thread, on the needles of the machine. In addition, dial 30 points (7 points to the middle, 7 points of a half-line and 16 points of a pick-up). Knit straight to the neckline. Mark the midline and the inflection line. Close the neck as on the left side.

Sleeve: tie the elastic and hang the elastic loops on the needles of the machine. Knit a sleeve, making increases and then decreases as shown in the drawing.

Pocket (10 x 10 cm): Begins knitting at the hem. Cast on 39 sts with a gray thread in 3 threads and knit 9 rows with a density of 1.2, then in 4 threads 1 row of pl. 5.0 and 4 rows pl. 2.1. then knit 4 rows of blue thread in 4 additions pl. 2.1, gray in 4 additions - 2 rows of square. 2.1. Set the counter to 0.00 and tie 40 rows of blue thread in 4 additions at a density of 3.2; 1 row on the square. 6.2; 5 rows on pl. 3.2.

Collar: cast on 125 (131) sts with a waste thread and tie 7-8 rows, continue with the main thread. Work 5 rows, then 8 short rows. To do this, on the left, push 10 needles into the PNP, knit 1 row. Pull 10 needles on the right into the PNP, knit 1 row, etc., until 40 needles each have been pulled out on the left and right. Mark the middle of the collar. After the shortened rows are connected, add 1 point increments along the edges on both sides in each 4th row. Only 10 increments. Then perform 10 decreases in the same way. Work 8 short rows and 5 more rows. Mark the middle of the collar. Finish knitting with a waste thread. For edging 45-46 and 51-58, knit rows in gray.

Assembly: Fold the finished paired parts face to face and sweep away. Fold unpaired parts along the longitudinal axis, sweep, iron. Allow to dry and start stitching.
Place a fastener on the front panel. To do this, bend the bend along the bend line by front side and sew the upper part of the half-nose (neck) from the bend to the middle (2 cm). Now bend to the wrong side and sweep. Mark and sew loops on the left side of the clasp. It is best to do this on sewing machine. Zigzag stitching should go along the knitted posts. Cut the loops after overcasting. Fold the fastener so that the right half-piece is at the bottom, the left one is at the top and the marked midpoints of the right and left sides coincide, baste. In the lower part, fasten the fastener in width with two rows of small stitches, iron.
Sew shoulder seams. Sew the ends of the collar, iron. Put the collar on the neckline, combining the middle of the collar and the middle of the back. Align the edges of the collar with the middle of the front. Sweep, otkettleat from the front and seamy side.
Execute side seams and the seams of the sleeves. To finish the cuts, you must turn the product face to yourself. Expand the incision in a straight line, put the inter-nodular loops of the incision on the machine needles and knit square. 4.2 - 2 rows, pl. 3.2 - 2 rows, pl. 7 - 1 row, pl. 3.2 - 3 rows, pl. 4.2 - 6 rows. Finish knitting with a waste thread. Bend the piping to the front side, sweep, iron, quilt.

People often ask me: "Can pattern programs be used to calculate cross-knit knits?" Reasoning purely theoretically, I came to the conclusion that it is possible: to swap the density of knitting vertically and horizontally and you can knit. I decided to check it out. For the experiment I took the simplest option: Pattern No. 1 straight silhouette, straight lowered sleeve.

Determining the order of knitting

This will help us minimize the number of seams in the finished product.

What is marked in this figure with numbers:

1. The numbers 1,2,3 on a yellow background are the order of knitting sweater parts in cross knitting
2. Blue color (1,6) shows the parts of the sleeve that we hang on the needle bar.
3. Shoulder seams are marked in yellow (4.8) and gray (3.9), which are sewn after the end of knitting.
4. Green (2.10) and red (7.5) mark the parts of the sleeve, which are sewn with a horizontal knitted seam.

The order of knitting a blouse:

1. We knit the sleeve (1) and remove it from the machine. Parts (6) and (7) are removed to waste separately from each other.
2. We knit the sleeve (2), remove part (2) from the machine to the waste, (1) leave it on the machine, additionally collect loops for knitting the back.
3. We knit the back. The armhole loops (5) are removed to the waste, we hang on the same place part (6) of the first sleeve and knit in front.
4. When the front part of the blouse is tied, we remove the side part and part of the armhole separately for the waste separately (10)
5. We collect the blouse. We carry out both shoulder seams.
6. Sew the halves of the sleeves into the armholes.
7. We carry out the seams of the sleeves.
8. We carry out the side seam of the blouse.
9. Processing the bottom of the blouse.

We do two calculations for knitting

According to one calculation, we will knit the sleeves (we set the knitting density as for normal knitting). Sleeve length 40cm is excluding elastic

According to another calculation, we will knit the back and in front (we swap the knitting density vertically and horizontally). The length of the blouse is 45cm - this does not include the elastic.

We collect 96 loops with an industrial elastic band and knit 24 rows - this is the cuff of the future blouse

We outweigh all the loops on the back needle bar, reset the counter to zero and then knit with a crochet stitch.

For the bevels of the sleeve, add one loop on each side of the canvas in the rows indicated in the calculation.

We finish knitting the sleeves with a waste thread. Separately each half (half of the front / half of the back). Remove the sleeve from the machine.

The second sleeve is knitted in the same way. For children's blouses, when knitting the second sleeve, you can shift the knitting as far as possible to the right, so that you can continue to knit the back without outweighing the sleeve. There is not enough needle cushion for adult things. Therefore, we also finish the second sleeve with a waste one, separately each half of the sleeve. Then we hang the left side of the removed sleeve as far as possible to the right, and on the left side of the needle bar we collect 79 loops with a waste thread. Then we knit with the main thread all together: part of the sleeve and the dialed loops. This will be the back of the blouse.

On the blouse, we are supposed to have a drawing - a wide braid. We place it in 3 loops from the armhole.

We knit 75 rows - this is the shoulder.

Lyrical digression number 1

And now comes the most interesting moment. You need to start knitting the neck of the back. It would seem that everything is fine: you do not need to finish knitting separately, you do not need to knit the neck with partial knitting, etc. since the neckline is from the edge of the right knit.

Since this blouse was knitted for the purpose of the experiment, it was decided not to deviate from the calculation of the pattern. The processing of the neckline was supposed to be put into a pocket, so all the flaws can be corrected. I will say right away that the purity of the experiment was violated. Having suffered at the neck of the back, I counted the neck of the front of the blouse, stepping back from the calculation and from the experiment. Here's the thing. To decrease a few loops from the right edge, you need the carriage to be on the right, and it is convenient to make decreases in every second row. The calculation does not provide for either the first or the second. You can neglect one row and move the carriage to the right. But here you can get confused. Firstly, we will sew the shoulders with a mattress seam, it is better that the number of rows coincides. You can skip the moment when it's time to finish knitting the neckline and start knitting the next shoulder, this again can lead to a different number of rows in the shoulders. I tried to make decreases when the carriage is on the left - I outweighed the loops inside the canvas with a decker. Not every number of loops can be so outweighed. Because of all these manipulations, the half of the neck where there were decreases turned out to be somewhat tightened, unlike the one where there were increases. Of course, all this is not visible on the finished product, but you should not complicate your life and strictly follow the calculation - it is better to count it. I didn’t have any photographs with the neck tied. I was so carried away by the agony of knitting that I simply forgot to photograph the process.

There are 238 rows on the counter. This is the middle of knitting: here the back ends and begins in front. On the left side, make a mark with a thread of a contrasting color. This will come in handy when we sew on the elastic.

We leave the needles of the armholes in operation. The rest of the needles are pushed into the PNP (front non-working position).

We finish knitting with a waste thread and cut off the right part of the knitting from the machine.

We take the first sleeve. We hang the left half of the sleeve on the right. Knit 75 rows - shoulder.

Lyrical digression number 2

Here we begin to knit the neck of the front of the sweater. I counted the increments / increments so that they were in every second row, so that it was possible to decrease and add loops when the carriage is on the right. We decrease 1-2 loops by outweighing the loops with a decker inside the canvas. To prevent the edge from pulling together after re-hanging, we manually knit the rightmost loop by hand again.

A larger number of loops is more convenient to reduce by simply closing them.

We add loops (in the second part of the neck) by simply twisting the adjacent right needles. As much as you need to add.

We knit 75 more rows - shoulder. We finish knitting with a waste thread. Separate part of the armhole and the side of the blouse. We remove knitting from the machine.

All details of the jacket are connected. We proceed to the assembly of the knitted sweater.

The elastic for the back of the blouse and the connection of the parts of the back and elastic are done in the same way.

We turn to the design of the neck of the sweater in cross knitting

We collect 218 loops and knit with an industrial elastic band 60 rows.

We start knitting at a higher density (knitting is looser), gradually decreasing it, so that at the end of the collar we go to the working density.

We knit a pocket

We hang the neck of the blouse and carry out the kettle in the pocket.

The neck is ready.

The sweater is knitted in cross-knit, it remains to complete the seams.

Let's start simple. On one side of the blouse, we have only one small seam: you need to sew a half of the sleeve to the armhole and sew a beveled seam on the sleeve.

We make the seam of the sleeve in any convenient way.

Sew the collar and the second shoulder, sew the second half of the sleeve into the armhole.

We sew a bevel seam of the second sleeve

We carry out the side seam of the blouse with a horizontal knitted seam

We carry out the side seams of the elastic

The cross-knit blouse is ready

Skirt, Kauni

Kauni yarn grow, gray-beige, beige, black. Total weight 250 g, needles number 3

I took the idea of ​​the skirt in the topic "Josephine's Shawl and ......." there is also a description of swing knitting there, I knitted mine fantastically, without patterns and patterns. She made stanzas, then filled in all the depressions until the canvas became even
Size 42-44 is ours. loops 260 (as few as possible)

Thanks to the length of the thread in kauni 400 m per 100 g. My size 42-44 is ours. Collected 260 loops (knitted a seam at the back with one cloth). It was possible to have fewer loops. Waves are connected with the front ones, between the waves there is a garter stitch. She leveled the bottom of the skirt every 10 cm, steamed the knitted and measured

There is no lining, the clasp is false (covered the seam)

I knitted without a pattern, knitted the stanzas as it turned out, then filled all the hollows (put markers at the highest points of the stanza and aligned the canvas)

In a nutshell, you need to divide the loops into parts. Hang the pins, determine with what step to knit. Let's say there are 50 stitches. Divide into 4 parts. 5 + 15 + 15 + 15 loops. In the first part, we lengthen the row with a step of 3 loops, and in the last part we shorten it with the same step. It is possible, on the contrary, 15 + 15 + 15 + 5, then in the first part we shorten the length of the row.
You can take steps different lengths... You just need to immediately determine what length we want to do, then the sections will turn out not to be a regular parallelepiped, but a different shape ... We knit the required number of rows and move on to the next part. It is important not to forget how many rows were tied in each part, so that in total it was the same for each part of knitting ...

Universal, dimensionless, original, extremely easy to manufacture! Not a blouse, but just a dream! Ideal for beginner knitters. Originally knitted by machine, but it can be knitted as well. Due to the cord stretched along the collar, the blouse can be worn in the usual way or in the form of "carmen", fully opening the shoulders.
So, for work you will need 250 g of yarn of the main color (semi-wool for machine knitting in 3 additions, any thin cotton or viscose yarn is also suitable). If you want to make the collar strap contrasting, you will need another 30 grams.


The blouse consists of two rectangles. The main part is tied with a 2X2 elastic band, the collar is tied face stitch... On the sides, both canvases are sewn - from bottom to top (to the armhole), and then the collar is sewn.
First, I will tell you how to knit this blouse on a machine.
In my version, the blouse is knitted from semi-woolen yarn for machine knitting in 3 additions, at a density of 6.0. Disassemble the needles on the upper and lower fountains 2X2. This is done in order not to lose every third loop when switching to collar knitting. There are 140 needles in total. Tie 220 rows with 2X2 elastic. Then transfer the loops from the bottom to the top and knit a row of cord holes every 5 loops. Collar height 35 rows. To achieve a broadening effect, increase the knitting density every 5 rows (6.0-6.1-6.2-7.0-, etc.). In the middle of the collar, knit an openwork insert according to the scheme


The height of the pattern is 20 rows. When you finish knitting the collar, knit a few more rows with waste thread. Remove the blade from the machine. Then strip off the collar. Tie the other half of the blouse in the same way. Sew an inconspicuous seam on the side seams and collar. Carefully loosen the waste thread, crochet the collar, being careful not to tighten the edge. Tie a cord 2 meters long and pass it through the holes in the collar. In the original, the cord is knitted on the machine from 3 loops. You can tie the cord any way you like. So that is all. Your blouse is ready! The versatility of the blouse lies in the fact that it looks great both under the jacket and in its "independent" form. When the cord on the collar is tightened, she looks quite modest. If you loosen the cord and lower the collar, opening your shoulders (a variant of "carmen" blouses), then you can safely go to a party))) And now one more secret - if you knit a blouse longer (90-100 cm long), then .... the jacket turns ... into an ELEGANT DRESS!
If you want to knit this blouse, knit the pattern and recount the pattern. You should have fewer stitches and possibly less rows. When knitting a collar, knit additional loops every 5 rows (every 10 loops). This will achieve an expansion effect. Otherwise, everything is the same as described above. Good luck!

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