Technological card direct skirt table. Technological sequence of a straight skirt

  • 1. Coloring fabric better on the big table
  • 2. Fabric fold twice facial side Inside, align the edges. So that the fabric is not shifted when walking, it is possible inside the contour of the parts to lend it with needles
  • 3. First decompose large details on the tissue (shelf, back, sleeves), then small parts (cuffs, collars, belt, etc.). Get the economical layout of the pattern on the fabric
  • 4. To the folding of the fabric, place the details that are given on the pattern in half the size. After cutting, you have a whole detail

Laying patterns of a straight skirt on fabric with directional pattern

Laying patterns of a straight skirt on the fabric width 140cm without a seam on the rear cloth

Laying patterns of a straight skirt on the fabric width of 140cm with a seam on the rear cloth

Laying patterns of a wedge skirt on the fabric

Layout patterns of a seamist conical skirt on the fabric

Laying patterns of a duplex conical skirt on the fabric



  • 1. Patterns of parts stick with needles to the fabric and start the exchange
  • 2. First circle long lines, then short and oval. Lines must be smooth. You can use rules and patterns to accurately and smoothly circle lines.
  • 3. Smooth, slippery fabrics (silk, chiffon, etc.) can be done when driving and stripping. Be sure to scalulate them with pins. When stroking contours of parts, do not press much on the wash
  • 4. After driving out the contour of the parts, take the location of the lines of the mid-part on the fabric, the midfield lines, the location of the first loop, pockets, extipe, folds
  • 5. Once again, check the correctness of the layout and the errors and only then proceed to the cutting fabric
  • 6. After driving parts, locate in the seams
  • 7. If you have little experience, not a very good eye and you are not sure that you can set the desired cutting size on the seams on the eye on the eye, set aside the size of the storage spaces using a ruler or a special template that can be made from cardboard. Note the magnitude of the allowance for fabric with chalk or soap
  • 8. Dispose fabric strictly on the allowances for the seams! Do not mistake!
  • 9. Do not forget that when cutting bulk fabrics, the magnitude of the sutures should be increased!

Skirts sew from a wide variety of fabrics (color. Table 10 and 11). The choice of fabric depends on the destination of the skirt (casual, domestic), season (summer, winter), style (straight, clayshevaya, etc.) and features of the figure. Selecting the tissue for the skirt, you need to decide, with what blouses you will wear it.

For the manufacture of direct skirt it is recommended to use quite heavy and dense fabric (Wool, flax) of any color, better smooth, striped or large cell. Skirts, expanded books, sew from lighter fabrics: cotton, linen, woolen and silk. For the manufacture of clayshevy (conical) and wedge skirts, well drepening fabrics are suitable - made of cotton, silk or light wool.

Logs Skirt affects the choice of fabric in width: For sewing a straight skirt, you can use a wide and narrow tissue, and skirts, extended down, or with folds more convenient to sew from wide tissue.

Before proceeding with sewing, it is necessary to make a work plan, which will mostly be the same for the manufacture of most styles of skirts.

Sequence of skirt manufacturing (approximate work plan).

1) Preparation of fabric to clarity.

2) cutting fabric.

3) Preparation of cut parts for processing.

4) training skirt to fitting.

5) carrying out fittings.

6) correction of shortcomings in the skirt after fitting

7) Skirt processing after fitting.

8) Skirt clasp processing.

9) Processing of the dialing belt.

10) Treatment of the upper cutting of the skirt.

11) Turning the lower cutting of the skirt.

12) Finishing and final processing of the skirt.

Questions

1. What does the choice of fabric depends on the skirt?

2. What is the difference in fabric properties used to sewing straight and clayshevy skirts?

When performing practical work on the manufacture of garments, it is necessary to comply with safety rules when working on a sewing machine, manual tools and devices and when performing humid-thermal works.

In the manufacture of garments, it is necessary to comply with the requirements for cutting, to the processing of individual parts and to the quality of the finished product.

The instruction cards are given to the manufacture of a skirt, the development of a shadow of which is shown on the color table 12. In addition, instruction cards are given to the processing of individual nodes of the same type of skirt in other ways.

Fabric preparation to clarity

Preparation of fabric to the discollity includes decatting, determining the facial and invalid sides and the direction of the equity thread; Finding defects, determining the nature of the drawing, length and width of the fabric.

The fabric before opening is decatued, i.e. it is subjected to wet-thermal processing to prevent subsequent shrinkage. Fabric defects are marked with sewing fine or threads of contrasting color.

1. Consider a cloth intended for sewing skirts, determine the type of weave the threads, the fibrous composition of the fabric and its operational properties.

Write down in the notebook length and width before and after the decatting and the magnitude of the shrinkage.

Cutting fabric

With the individual manufacture of sewing products, it is cut out for one product. With the mass production with the help of cutting machines, it is exhibited by parts for a large number of products.

The method of filling fabrics with a string (flex or rotary) and the location of the parts of the skirt patterns depend on the width of the tissue and the style of the product, as well as on the number of abundant products.

When plotting it is necessary to comply with the rules known to you - take into account the direction of the equity thread, the character of the picture and the defects detected on the fabric.

It is also important to know that on the pile tissue, the details of the pattern are unfolded in one direction - the pile in the product should be directed from the bottom up.

Practical work

Ingorging Map. Cutting fabrics for skirt

Tools and accessories: Work box, pattern Skirt, fabric.

Questions

1. What are the requirements for cutting products?

2. What should I pay attention to when laying patterns on the fabric?

Preparation of parts cutting to processing

The upper part of the skirt, from the waist line to the hip line, should firmly facilitate the figure. Therefore, the side of the sides, dyeing and lines that limit the width of the folds should be accurately transferred to the details of the cut using copy stitches or cutters. The position of the lines of the hips and the middle of the details should be tagged with laying stitches.

Practical work Preparation of details cut to processing

Sequence of execution (Fig. 48).

1. Locking the contour lines with copy stitches (silk).

2. Locking control lines with plug-in stitches in the middle of the front and rear panels and on the fold line belt.

3. Locking control lines with copy stitches (3-4 stitches at the intersection of the thighs with the BOK line).

Self-control. Check how exactly the lines are made, made by copying and gasket stitches, accuracy of their location.

Questions

1. Which line of the contour of the skirt details must be transferred to the fabric especially carefully and why?

2. How is the position of the hip line on the details of Croy?

3. What are the control lines?

Skirt preparation for fitting

In order for the skirt to accurately correspond to this person's figure, it must be done. It is done before performing machine work. In the preparation of the skirt to fit the folds, folds and side sections, replete top and bottom sections. All operations are performed by residual stitches with a length of 0.5-0.7 cm so that with the suture of the seam it does not move and unpacked.

Practical work

Ingorging Map. Skirt preparation for fitting

Tools and accessories: Work box, croa skirt.


Questions

1. What does it mean to prepare a skirt to fitting?

2. Why are the molding of the vertex to the slice?

3. How do the side sections and folds do?

Skirt fitting and shortcomings

The tape or wide braid is spawn on the waist. The skirt is worn so that the lines of the middle of the front and rear panels (or wedges) were at the appropriate places, and pin to the corsight tape (braid).

The fitter is made on the right side of the figure, on the same side of the product using pins and sewing chalk make corrections.

After fitting, the correction is transferred to the left side of the skirt. If the time of fitting was made of large changes, then after fixing make re-fitting.

Practical work

Ingorging Map. Conducting fittings

Tools and accessories: Work box, sour cream skirt, line (1 m), Corsa tape (braid).


Questions

1. What is clarified during the skirt fitting?

2. How to change the position of the molding and side seam?

3. How can you check the uniform length of the skirt?

Ingorging Map. Correction of shortcomings in the skirt after fitting

Questions

1. How to transfer corrections made during fitting, with right side on left?

2. What should be checked by finishing fixes after fitting?

3. In which case, you need to perform a re-fitting?

Skirt processing after fitting

After the fitting, proceed to the skirt processing. When processing individual skirt details, the following requirements must be followed:

1. Before stepping from the seams on the sewing machine, check whether it remains in the product of the pin, and remove the copiers stitches (delete them after executing the machine lines more difficult).

2. Screening, retreating from the 21-0.2 cm recess stitches towards the seam cut.

3. After the stratification, remove the residual stitches, as they can interfere with the performance of humid-thermal processing (seamlessness) and can leave traces on the fabric after lounge.

4. Molds to carry out from the wide end to the narrow, gradually pulling the line to not (if the line is reduced sharply, the outturope will be blocked ugly).

5. When processing open cuts of the racial seam, it is necessary to take into account the properties of the fabric: if the fabric is not bulk, the sections can be cooled with oblique stitches, and if the bulk - looping.

At the production of seams, seams are cooled at a special stammet machine, and in everyday life - on a household car having a zigzag line.

6. All processing operations to finish with wet-thermal processing (the iron temperature must correspond to the type of fabric).

Practical work

Ingorging Map. Skirt processing after fitting

Tools and accessories: Work box, skirt.


Questions

1. When should I remove the sinks and residual stitches when performing work on the sewing machine?

2. Why, when sharping the cutting line, you need to reducely reduced to no!

3. Why after stepping the parts of the skirt seam cuts need to be processed?

Skirt clasp processing

For fasteners in skirts, hooks, buttons and zippers are usually used. The most common and convenient - zipper zipper. It is used when sewing any skirts.

The hook clasp is more often performed in the manufacture of a straight skirt, and on the buttons - beach. Zippers are usually sewn on a sewing machine with a special foot. You can sew a lightning manually, for the pre-laid machine line.

Practical work

Ingorging Map. Skirt clasp processing using zipper

Tools and accessories: work box, skirt, zipper (14-16 cm long), foot for sewing zipper.


Questions

1. What types of fasteners are used in skirts?

2. Why is it more convenient to blame zipper using a special foot?

3. How can I sew a zipper manually?

Treatment of upper cutting skirt

The upper cut of the skirt can be treated with a gifted belt, a corsight ribbon. You can send a skirt on the rubber band.

Sometimes the belt is made with a gasket of a corsage tape or densely corrected fabric. The gasket is obligatory if the belt is wide or the fabric from which they sew the skirt, light, soft, otherwise the belt will sweep.

The corsage tape is mainly used to treat the upper sections of direct skirts.

The corsage tape is made of cotton or caproic yarn. She is made tight and tough so that it does not reverse with the wear of the product. The width of the corsage ribbon is 2-5 cm. The widely cowful tape is folded along in half, and the narrow sewn into one layer.

Practical work

Ingorging Map. Processing belt

Tools and accessories: Work box, Curlee belt.


Questions

1. What should be done to make the belt not sweat while socks skirts?

2. How to determine the position of the middle of the front and rear cloves on the belt?

3. How to check the quality of the belt processing?

Treatment of upper cutting skirt

In colon table 13, an instruction card is given to perform work on the processing of the upper cutting of the skirt with a trim belt.

1. Why should the Corsa Tape be dense and tough?

2. How to prepare a kiss ribbon?

3. Why do not sew two hooks on one end of the killer ribbon?

Questions

1. What ways can you treat the upper cut of the skirt?

2. What machines and manual seams Did you use when processing the top of it * it cuts the skirt with a private belt?

3. When is it more convenient to check the uniformity of the belt width over the entire length?

Treatment of the upper cutting of the skirt with a corsage ribbon

In colon table 14, an instruction card is given to perform work on the processing of the upper cutting of the skirt with a kiss ribbon.

After processing the upper cutting of the skirt to the corsight ribbon, hooks and loops are sewn.

Ingorging Map. Crochet and loops

Tools and accessories! Work box, skirt, hooks and loops.


Treatment of lower cutting skirt

The lower slice in light clothes is treated in various ways (Fig. 49). The choice of processing method depends on the product model, type and properties of the tissue. The most common method of processing the lower cutting of the skirts is a closed seam with a closed slice, made by manually by secretly firmware.

If the tuss fabric, the lower cutting of the product is treated with an open section with an open slice with a braid or crucified stitches. Very raped cloth will be pre-edged, and then stitched with housing stitches. Products made of cotton fabrics can be sewn on the sewing machine.

The width of the seam in the processing of the skirt can also be different, depending on the style of the skirt.

Practical work

Ingorging Map. Treatment of the lower cutting of the skirt with secret steer stitches

Tools and accessories: Work box, skirt.


Questions

1. What ways can I handle the lower cut of the skirt and from which the choice of processing method depends?

2. What manual stitches are the bottom skirts?

3. How do you have a processed bottom cut Skirt?

4. What safety safety rules should be observed when operating an electric iron?

Final Skirt Processing

The final processing of the sewing product is performed after connecting parts and process all sections. The quality of the finished product is presented the following requirements:

1. The appearance of the finished product must correspond to the selected model, aesthetic and hygienic requirements.

2. The finished product should be well revealed.

3. Paired parts must be the same size and symmetrically arranged.

4. Manual and machine lines must match technical conditions to perform manual and machine work.

The final processing of the skirt is performed in such a sequence: first sew finishing parts, accessories (buttons, buttons, hooks), then remove the residual stitches, the product is clean and revealed. Depending on the type of fabric, the skirt is worked with facial (from Citz, Schotlands) or from the wrong side (from satin, wool, silk, pile fabrics). Skirt, stitched from woolen fabric, Ironing through wet fabric (Peremouth). Skirts are more convenient to iron on the ironing board. First, minor parts are revealed, then large. It should be ironed in the direction of the filament of the fabric. It is impossible to put an outrageous skirt immediately - it must be suspended or spreading on the table to dry it. Otherwise, it will appear on it.

In production, the final processing of products is performed in the finishing workshop, which uses special equipment. So, for the final wet-thermal treatment of products, presss are used (Fig. 50) and steam-air dummies, many of which are automated. For sewing accessories, special sewing machines are used - semi-automatic: for sewing buttons, metal hooks and loops, etc. The use of automated equipment allows you to significantly increase productivity, improve product processing quality and reduce workers' fatigue.

Practical work

Ingorging Map. Final Skirt Processing

Tools and accessories: work box, skirt, fittings, finishing parts.


Questions

1. What is the final processing of the skirt?

2. What are the residue stitches are removed at the end of sewing skirts?

3. In what order do the wet-thermal processing of the skirt perform?

Finishes used in skirts

Finishing complements and decorates sewing Product. For decoration, various finishing parts are used, embroidery (see color, table. 8, 9), all kinds of fittings, line, kant, braid (see color. Table 5-7),

In addition to the main parts - the front and rear panels, the skirt can have several additional small parts: belt, pockets, bib, straps, loops. These details simultaneously serve as a decorative design of the product. They can be made of fixed and finishing fabric or decorated with embroidery, braid, fittings.

Accessories is a necessary addition of clothing (see, for example, color. Tab. 5, Model 2; Color, Table 6, Model 3, 4). In the skirt it is used for fasteners (buttons, buttons, hooks, zippers), to fit the straps and buttons of the belt (buttons, buckles) and at the same time for decoration. But sometimes fittings serves only as decorative design.

Embroidery makes an elegant skirt, decorates it (see, for example, color. Table 6, models 1, 2), embroidery patterns can be the most different: geometric, thematic, in the form of plant ornament for folk motifs.

Sometimes embroidered the panels skirts or coquetk. You can arrange embroidery on the bottom of the product in the form of repeating elements of the pattern or ornament band. A wide decorative braid is often used or combined with decorating stitches, appliqué.

Embroidery can decorate finishing parts - pockets, bib, coquetka.

Decorate the sewing product and finishing lines (see color. Tab. 6, Models 3, 4). They, as it were, emphasize the lines, seams, reliefs, counter folds - make them more noticeable. Threads for performing lines are selected in the color of the fabric or contrasting. It is not recommended to use a machine line on the fabric with a pattern. Stitching finishes beautifully looks on light fabric.

Cant, braid, soutout (see color. Table 7, models 1, 2) can be finishes. These types of finishes enhance and emphasize individual lines, details, reliefs. Crate can be finished the coquette lines, pockets, bibs. The smooth braid and bindwee draw up the bottom skirts, lines of pockets, coquette, bib. Kant and Tips must be combined with the color with the main cloth. For fabric with a pattern, the finish is better to take into the color of the part of the pattern, which is less found in the tissue.

You can decorate the skirt with a fringe, placing it on the bottom of the product, pockets (see color. Table 7, model 3), coquettes. The fringe is made from the filaments of the main fabric, and a dense outbreakable cloth can be simply cut. For finishing skirts, sewn from light fabric, Suitable lace (see color. Table 7, Model 4),

The finish can be the fabric itself, from which the skirt is sewn, also finishing fabric (see color. Table 7, models 5-7).

Good to know. Before washing embroidered products, it is necessary to check if the threads do not melt. To do this, it is necessary to moisten with water a small part of the embroidery and wet threads to lose on white pure matter. If the tissue is painted, it means that the embroidered product must be erased: the first time in warm water with salt (the tablespoon of salt per liter of water). Repeated washing - with washing powder. On the liter of water take 1/2 tablespoon of powder and 1/2 tablespoon of vinegar. The product is erased, flashed, and, slightly pushing, roll into clean tissue. You can dry in air (in the shade).

Questions and tasks for repeating the topic "Tailoring of the skirt"

1. How to approach the choice of fabric for the manufacture of a straight and cushion skirt?

2. What sequence make a skirt?

3. How to prepare fabric to cut?

4. How to take into account when the fabric draw is?

5. How to prepare details cut to processing?

6. Why are the fitting of the product do before performing machine work?

7. What sequence do the skirt make?

8. In what sequence are the side sections of the skirts?

9. How to prepare a belt for processing the upper cutting of the skirt?

10. How do the bottom cut of the skirt, sewn from thick failure of the fabric?

11. What safety safety rules should be observed with a wet-thermal processing of the skirt?

Municipal budgetary educational institution

"Secondary school №1"

chanoye Purovsky district

Lesson

Teacher

p. Haney

Theme lesson: Technological sequence Production of a straight skirt.

Fastener processing B. side seam Skirts braid - lightning.

Objectives lesson: Acquaint students with a direct skirt manufacturer's sequence.

Teach the correct processing of the clasp in one of the ways, observing the processing technology.

Promoting the upbringing of aesthetic taste, care.

Check out the skills of labor culture and accuracy.

Develop the coordination of the movements of the hands, performing skills.

Lesson time:90 minutes.

Type of lesson: combined.

Main forms of work:frontal, individual

Teaching methods:valid, visual, practical.

Equipment and materials:

    Personal Use Tools Tutorial, Workbook Loskuta Fabric, Lightning Tape

During the classes

1 . Organizational part (2 min.)

Greeting;

Checking students present;

Check availability to the lesson.

2. Repetition of the material passed (25 min.).

Game - Competition "Circular and Sewing"

1. Making moment: (3 min)

Students are divided into two teams, come up with the name of the team, which should contain a technological term (needle, pin, thread, thimble, ....) and choose a commander who will fix the number of correct answers.

2. Blittechnir (7 min)

The teacher in turn sets the teams questions to which they should quickly answer. For each correct answer, accrued one point. If the team responds wrong, the response right goes to rivals.

Blittechnology issues for the "needle" team

Which side of the machine needle is inhabited?

(From the side of the nitenastor and a long groove; in different sewing machines, the long groove of the needle and the nitenastor can be found from different sides).

In what cases is the village seam seam?

(Bar seam is used to connect two or more parts).

What are the threads going along the edge?

(Base threads or equity threads).

At what course should the sewing machine be standing while refueling the thread?

(On the operating go).

What is the value of copying lines?

(They serve to transfer lines with one detail to another).

Blittechnology questions for the "Thread" team

Why when working on a sewing machine, you need to change the length of the stitch?

(The length of the stitch is changed, because thin fabrics are sewn with small, short stitches, and thick and dense - longer).

What are the threads going across the edge?

(Threads duck).

Which side should the light fall when working on a sewing machine?

(On the left side or in front).

4. In what position should the foot be located after the end of work on the sewing machine?

(At the end of the work, the foot should be in the lower position).

What is the reverse stroke of the sewing machine?

(To perform machine assembly).

Competition "What is it?" (3 min)

According to the verbal description, you need to guess the type of clothing.

Job Team "Needle"

The product belongs to the shoulder group. Sews mainly from cotton fabric. When sewing, the following seams are applied: double, edging, seam apparatus with a closed slice. This thing makes our sleep ... The rest is more enjoyable.

(Nightshirt).

Task "Thread"

The product refers to the belt group. Sews from all kinds of fabric. It can be part of a suit or independent product. Wear both men and women. (Pants).

Competition "Fourth Excess" (3 min)

Schoolchildren read the words, one of which is out of the logical series. Task - Find Excess Word. For each correct answer, accrued one point.

1. Sheet, pillowcase, tablecloth, duvet cover. (Tablecloth).

2. Foot drive, manual drive, electrical drive, hydraulic drive. (Hydraulic drive).

3. Centimeter, square, scissors, ruler . (Scissors).

4. Bar, socket, invoice, sweeping. (Merit)

5. Competition "What about this lies?" (3 min)

Schoolchildren should call products, items that are proposed by the teacher in orally generalizing concepts (summarizing words). For each correct and perhaps a fullest response is accrued 3 points.

1. Furnitura (Buttons, buttons, buckles, fasteners ........)

2. Tools for sewing (Needle, thimble, scissors, centimeter tape ....)

6. Competition "Finish Proverbs" (3 min)

Made the case ... (Gulyay boldly).

Master's business ... .. ( fears).

What we sing . . (I'll get married).

Business time ... (Hour fun).

Patience and work ... (all overheat).

Hurry - people ... (Make).

Some seven times ... (Once a rejection).

Forest cut ... ( slips fly).

Teams get one points for each right proverb

About modesty:

Boaster - do not mow, the back will not overtake.

There is a lot of ringing, but there is little a sense.

Words and there and here, and the case is nowhere.

Language lace weaves.

Do not rush your tongue - hurry the case.

Mutual assistance and partnership:

Who soon helped, he helped twice.

The advice is good, and the case is better.

Road spoon to dinner.

Friendship is stronger than stone walls.

An intelligent interlocutor is half the road.

Where the way is there a treasure.

7. As we know the rules of safe work. (3 min)

On the proposed students, they answer questions, raising her hand, yes or no:

When an emergency, immediately turn off the sewing machine.

The sewing machine platform should be free from foreign objects.

The iron includes and turn off with dry hands, keeping behind the body of the fork.

A thread for inwing in the needle can be measured any length.

The thread is not biled with teeth.

Pins and needles must be stored in the pad.

Hot Iron Sole may touch the electric cord.

During the work, you can damage your fingers with a needle or pin.

Before starting work, tools and fixtures must be put in the place allotted for them.

Scissors to put on the right with closer blades directed from ourselves.

(Commands of groups count the number of scored scores)

Teacher: All accepted active participation In the proposed game, which contributed to the consolidation of the knowledge gained.

Fizkultminutka

(A few simple exercises that are recommended to do in technology lessons)

The energetic walking in place at which it is necessary to wave a widespread with their hands and raise his knees as high as much as possible. Duration 1-1.5 min. This exercise tones the main muscle groups, enhancing blood circulation. From the original position, standing, the hands are omitted along the body, legs on the width of the shoulders, climbing on tiptoe, at the same time blending and strain the back, and the hands take the hands behind the head and dilute the elbows to the sides when the head is folding. Repeat 4-5 times within one minute. This exercise tones the back muscles, removes congestive phenomena in the occipital region, enhances the blood flow. Standing, hands on the waist, turns of the body with breeding hand to the sides. At the turns - inhale, return to its original position - exhale. Repeat 5-6 times for 1 min. This exercise tones the oblique muscles of the back, enhances blood circulation in them. In the initial position, the standing is performed by energetic machines with hands from behind the back through the heads behind the head and back. Hands are relaxed. Duration 1-1.5 min. This exercise enhances the bloodstream and removes the voltage from the upper limbs.

3. Message to informative information (7 min)

(On the image skirt screen)

Initially in the Middle Ages, the skirt was called the grooved robbery. They wore him both men and women. And only in the 15th century a female skirt appeared. The length of the skirt was almost unchanged until the beginning of the 20th century.

Each people had their own traditions in wearing skirts. So, Russian married women usually put on top of the shirt low - Skirt is not stitched, but smeared around the figure and fixed around the waist with a cord - gasnik. Consider often sewed from the motley fabrics and decorated with embroidery or braid.

How many women's skirts exist, there are so many disputes about their length. Long, fully closing feet of a woman's skirts wear up to the 20th century, when the skirts began to gradually shorten, first the opening of the shoe's sock.

In the 60s, a skirt appeared in fashion, barely covered legs.

In the 70s, the Midi skirts were made up to the middle of the caviar.

Types of modern skirts: Skirt - Pants, Skirt in a fold, Skirt on Bretels, Skirt-Portfolio, Tulip Skirt. The most up-to-date and fashionable is a classic straight skirt, which, depending on the length, is suitable for each type of shape. Her we will make it, studying this section.

4. Summary of software material.

4.1.The technological sequence of manufacture of direct skirt (Presentation 5 min). Students record a technological sequence of the manufacturer of a straight skirt in the notebook.

Preparation of details cut to leisure. Preparation of skirt to fitting. Conduct fittings. Correction of defects. Pulling processing. Processing side cuts. Handling clasp in lateral seam skirt with tape-zipper. Treatment of the belt, treatment of the upper cutting of the skirt with a valiant belt. Treatment of lower cutting skirt. Processing hinges and sewing buttons.

The 2nd lesson is the processing of the fastener in the side seam of the skirt with tape-zipper.

Information about zipper ( 2 minutes) (Teacher shows zipper).

In the zipper skirt, it can be located in the left side seam, the seam in the back or front panel of the skirt. Lightning consists of a braid, to which small cloves (links or spiral) are attached, a lock with a ring and three metal rivets, located at the top and bottom.

Zipper replaces the fastener on buttons, buttons or hooks and serves as decorative trim in some types of clothing.

Advantages of zippers: (Slide and recording in the notebook)

Reducing time for processing;

Beautiful appearance;

Speed \u200b\u200band ease of use.

Demonstration of lightning processing samples in the side and middle seam, the finished skirt.

4.2. Algorithm for processing clasp in lateral seam Ski braid-zipper ( presentation, 5 min).

To properly handle the clasp with zipper, it is necessary to distinguish the basic details of the skirt. To do this, they need to be labeled (sign)

1. Fold the two parts of the front side inside.

2. To hold a chalk or pencil line of the side seam at a distance of 2 cm from parts cuts.

3. To postpone 16 cm parts from the upper sections (lightning length) and spend a horizontal line that limits the length of the fastener.

4. Fix the side sections of the cloth from the limiting line to the bottom.

5. Swimming of the seams on the leisure area is decomposed in different directions.

6. Tape - zipper attached to the involving side of the cloth so that the start of the links is at a distance of 1 cm from the top cutting of the skirt (sample)

7. Snew the zipper, ranging from the upper cutting of the skirt down, closing the braid to the middle of the links. Perform this operation on the other side.

The mixed lightning bracket must be closed with letters on the seam.

The teacher demonstrates acceptance of work. (7 min)

Reminder of compliance during the fulfillment of practical work rules TB.

5. Practical work (15 min) Students in the winding of lightning.

Targeted bypass teacher of student jobs in order to control compliance with technology and TB.

6. Final part (5 min.).

Questions to secure a new material:

1. What's new we learned in the lesson? ( Skirt processing sequence, fastener processing methods with zipper)

2. What does it mean to marke?

3. Advantages of fasteners - lightning (reduction of time for processing, beautiful appearance, speed and ease of use)

An analysis of the mistakes made during practical work is carried out.

Magazine estimates.

Task on the house - § 11, bring cloth x / b for the manufacture of skirts in M \u200b\u200b1: 2, personal use tools.

Cleaning jobs.

References:

Simonenko "Technology" Grade 6 allowance for teacher to study technology in grade 6. Additional literature.

Making a straight skirt requires compliance with technological sequence.

  1. Preparation of details cut to leisure.
  2. Preparation of skirt to fitting. .
  3. Conduct fittings. Correction of defects.
  4. Pulling processing.
  5. Processing side cuts.
  6. Handling clasp in lateral seam skirt with tape-zipper.
  1. Treatment of the belt, treatment of the upper cutting of the skirt with a valiant belt.
  2. Treatment of lower cutting skirt.
  3. Processing hinges and sewing buttons. We will get acquainted with the stages of this sequence that have not yet discussed.

Preparation of details cut to leisure

  1. To transfer the contour lines on one side of the part to another or on pair parts using copier stitches (Fig. 56).

Fig. 56. Transferring contour lines with copy stitches

  1. Stop the small line of the middle of the front and rear pilot skirt. On the wrong sides of the parts, the straight residue stitches of 1.5-2 cm (Fig. 57) are paved on the intended lines (Fig. 57).

Fig. 57. Measitage of the middle of the skirt of the skirt with sweep stitches

  1. Mark the skirt details (Fig. 58).

Fig. 58. Marking of skirt details

Skirt preparation for fitting

  1. Slow out the molding on the outlined lines on the front and rear panels skirts.
  2. To mix the lateral sections of the front and rear side of the skirts on the outlined lines, leaving the inconspandard area of \u200b\u200b16-18 cm in the left side seam.
  3. Connect two edges with overhead with open sections.
  4. Spelling the edge to the upper cut of the skirt from the wrong side with straight meal stitches with a length of 0.7-1 cm to protect the upper cut of the skirt from stretching during the fitting.
  5. To adjust the lower cut of the skirt on the planned line of the fee of Niza and to take.
  6. Check the quality of the sour cream skirt.

Conduct fittings.
Fix defects

During the fitting it is necessary to stand straight, in a natural position, with lowered hands. The fitter is performed on the right side of the figure. When identifying defects, they also correct them on the right side of the product using a manual needle with thread and chalk, taking into account that it is necessary to change the left part of the product to the same amount.

For fitting it is necessary:

  1. Put the skirt. To clasp the fastener cut in the left side seam of skirts with pins.
  2. Specify balance Products.

    (Balance is correct location side seams in the product.)

    If the balance is violated, then throw the side seam by moving the front and rear parts for this length to the desired value, and stick with pins.

  3. Check the width of the skirt in the waist area, hips and bottoms.
  4. Specify the length and location of the wretched.
  5. Check the layout of the top cutting of the skirt.
  6. Specify the length of the skirt.

After fitting on all chalk lines, it is necessary to pave direct residue stitches, transfer changes to the right side of the skirt to the left with a cutter or copy stitches. Next, decompose the product on the table and check, is exactly the lines on all the details. If the skirt has not been changed during fitting, then you can proceed to open machine processing.

If the skirt is improper processing, defects may occur (Table 24).

Table 24.
Defects of skirts and ways to eliminate them

Defect name and graphic image

The cause of the occurrence

Remedy

1. Skirt in front adjacent to the legs

Incorrectly decorated the upper cut of the front panel skirt

Upper slice of the front panel skirts to perform with the deflection in the middle. The magnitude of the deflection depends on the figure

2. Skirt Behind the feet

Incorrectly decorated upper cut of the rear pilot skirt

Upper slice of the rear pilot skirts to perform with the deflection in the middle. The magnitude of the deflection depends on the figure

3. Skirt wide on the thigh plot

Excessive extension along the thigh

Pick up the surplus of the fabric in the side seams on the thigh plot

4. Transverse chances at the belt on the rear pilot skirt

Incorrectly decorated the upper cut of the rear panel of the skirt or increased the solution of the rear and side extracts

Upper Scroll Skirt Rear Skirts Arranged with a deflection or reduce the solution of the rear and side extracts

Connection and processing of lateral sections

  1. Fold the details of the front and rear side of the skirt face inside, equalizing the cuts.
  2. Fix the details of the front and rear panels skirts on the outlined lines.
  3. Start. Remove the desiccation threads. Print seams.
  4. Process cutout cuts by loop stitches (Fig. 59) or on a sewing machine.

Fig. 59. Processing of cutting sections of loop stitches

  1. Rent side seams (Fig. 60).

Fig. 60. Rangery of side seams skirts

Processing loop and butcher sewing

  1. Select the location of the loop of the front end of the belt with the front side (Fig. 61) in the following sequence:

Fig. 61. Marking of location loops

    1. two transverse lines that limit the length of the loop;
    2. the linte of the cut determining the direction of the loop.
  1. Cut hole for hinges on the planned line.
  2. Cut down sections with loop stitches with a frequency of 10-15 stitches in 1 cm. The distance from the puncture of the needle to the cutting of the loop depends on the glance of the fabric and equal to 0.1-0.3 cm. Place the stitches at the same distance from the cut and each other, tightening Thread with the same effort. At the ends of the loop, perform manual leafs with two-three stitches, having them across the cut line (Fig. 62).

Fig. 62. Step-by-step (1-6) loop processing loop stitches

  1. Close lightning flashes.
  2. Adjust the front end of the belt to the rear and outlaw the sewing point of the buttons (Fig. 63).

Figure 63 Determination of sewing sewing

  1. Sew a button.

Buttons are selected in color to the main fabric and sewn cotton threads No. 50, folded twice.

Buttons with two holes are sewn four-fifth stitches, with four holes - three-four stitches in each pair of holes. The button is sewn freely, without tightening so that it can be crushed by a thread. Thus, a rack is 0.1-0.3 cm high depending on the thickness of the tissue. (Rack is the distance between the fabric and buttice.) The rack is wrapped in two or four turns, fixing the end of the thread with three-four stitches.

In products from cotton and linen fabrics, buttons are sewn without a rack.

New words and concepts

Fitting, product balance, skirt defects, side sections.

Questions for self-test

  1. Listed the sequence of training skirt to fitting.
  2. Tell me how to carry out the skirt.
  3. What is the product balance?
  4. What defects may occur with the wrong skirt processing?

Send your good work in the knowledge base is simple. Use the form below

Students, graduate students, young scientists who use the knowledge base in their studies and work will be very grateful to you.

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Introduction

Clothes - a system of material shells, artificial cover of a human body that protects it from external influences of nature and is some manifestation of individual personality, era.

Reflections on the problems of fashion, about the complexity of the methods to which we resort, every day forming your image, make it clear that the information content of social relations has become much more significant than ever before. Body decoration, clothes, makeup always were signs of status, power, belonging, but in our time, obviously, the symbolic meaning of the body and clothing has increased dramatically. When you think about how little values \u200b\u200bwere transferred to the peasant shirt, which was the majority clothes for centuries, as the same name was the clothing of the working class, which his representatives were worn at work, and outside it until the 1950s, then you start understanding that in the field of clothing It happened simply explosive growth of values.

Modern pants are diverse in shape and cut. They can be part of a suit or independent view of both male and women's clothing. More often there are straight trousers consisting of the front and rear parts. Their lengths under the length determine such varieties: pants golf, Bermuda, shorts. In width, modern pants can be different: expanded in separate areas or along the entire length, or vice versa along the entire length of the aligned.

During the centuries, the skirts have repeatedly changed their shape and width, but the length began to change only in HC. At times, the skirts reached significant volumes, were cooked and complex in design, they demanded special devices.

1. Sketch model

2. Description of the model

skirt Lining Modular Model

Women's skirt on lining, from woolen fabric, direct silhouette, Designed for everyday socks. Recommended dimensions - 164 - 88-90.

Secret zipper on average seam.

Front cloth straight.

The rear cloth with the average seam, with two plots and flying slot.

There are four loops on the belt, two on the front and two on the rear cloth.

The finishing line passes along the flying slot.

The trim is a leather belt with an iron blah.

3. Thosetrial sequence

Name of indivisible operations

equipment identification

Time spent

1. Running

Running details Croy

Connect with glue gasket 6 belt parts

313 "Panonia"

Clear the enhanced braid sections of the front and rear cloth 6 sections

313 "Panonia"

Skinny Slot 1 Detail

Note 2 moldings on the rear cloth by template

2. Sh levka.

Start cuts of loan in tape 1 seam

Shot down

Slee down

Cut 4 bush

leaf; scissors

3. Billet Shelf

Side the lateral details of the front panel

Surminate the lower cuts of the front panel

4. Preparing the back

Side the side details of the rear panel

Sash the bottom sections of the rear panel

Sound the bottom cut on the template

Start 2 Outts on the rear cloth

Shut down, Sutyuzhu 2 Outts on the rear cloth

Start the rear cloth under the "zipper" and under the slot

Note the location of the slot and "zipper"

Substive rear cloth, laying out the slices

Snowing the slot on the template

Returning the stacking of the back, sutyuzhny, knock the corner

Share and firm the surroundings of the slot, turn out, straighten the ledge

Pour OS by the inner part of the slot

Share and start the slots, outline on the SC template on the Slice, lay an OS on the Slice, Correct the Slot on the upper cut, laying out, fasten the stacking of the slot

Join the "Lightning"

Touch the zipper "zipper" 2 seam, unbutton, fasten the "zipper", check the coincidence, consolidate the "zipper"

Secure the stacking of the rear panel under the "zipper"

5. Blowing belt

Start the side slices of the lower belt

Running lateral sutures of the lower belt.

Gift UT cut the belt, having caught

Note and attach the FZ to the bottom

Note the lines of damping belt on the template, 2 lines on 3 details

Attach 4 loops over the top slice of skirts, lay out near the patch 2 times

Cut the belt to the upper slice of the skirt

Running 3 belt suture

Cover the lower belt to the zipper zipper

6. Property blank

Start side sections

9632-430 "Mauser"

Aprecine the middle sections of the rear panel under "zipper", laying up an amplifying braid by posting by configuration

627-28-1 Rimoldi SD

Describe sections of the rear closet

627-28-1 Rimoldi SD

Sluff the lower cut of a double bending system, laying the OS by 0.2 by an outdoor bending into manual.

Touch the upper cut lower slice belt, laying 4 warehouses, lining care label

1. Installation

Start side cuts

Running side seams, resting zipper from the face and with an inside

Patch top belt to the bottom, capping, carve, unscrew, fix the equiarity, to fasten the "zipper" to put the product into a subclass, rich "zipper", pushing 4 bumps

Shut down the upper cut, laying out a chandelier in 4 reception, in withdrawal, essential landing on the fore

Shot suture of belt feeding, pushing 4 loops

Attach the belt to the side seams on the plot, turn out, lay out the seams, flexing the allowances

Attach 4 loops to the top belt

Attach 4 loops over the upper cut, to sign excess bumps

Scroll down the nise, combining seams, trim, turning the corners of the slot

KL-45-123 StroeBel

Secure 4 loops over the upper cut

2. Final operations

Clear from production garbage, fasten the "zipper"

Remove the skirt

Climb Skkki

The final WTO top, put on trempel + foam

Turn the belt in 4 bumps, fasten, fill the end of the belt under the loop, dress the belt on the fishing line, fasten the fishing line. Hang a line on trempel

Quality control

Build a route, delivery to the warehouse

Attach 1 label, 1 on the hook

Total models

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