Mueller design. The book “M.Müller and son
The “M.Müller and Son” technique, developed over a hundred years ago in Germany, has become widespread in sewing factories and in ateliers in most European countries. Its improved version is presented in the monthly German edition of the magazine Damen-Rundschau, as well as in a magazine published in Russia and Ukraine "Studio", including, and in the annual collections of the specified magazine.
Leading experts in the field of designing clothing, working according to the methodology "M. Mueller and Son", note its simplicity in calculations and constructions and low labor intensity of design work in the development of design drawings.
Muller's system is based on the use of four main, twelve auxiliary and four special measurements of female figures (see table 1). It should be noted that not all measurements proposed in the methodology correspond to modern data.
The auxiliary measurements in the methodology include those of them that are obtained on the basis of direct measurement of the figure, as well as on the basis of calculations according to the established empirical (experimental) method of dependencies (see table 2)
Table 1 - Dimensional signs female figure to build a drawing of a dress according to the Mueller method
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Dimensional attribute name |
Dimensional designation adopted in the methodology |
Analogue of a dimensional characteristic in design standards |
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Basic measurements |
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2 Bust |
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3 Waist circumference |
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4 Girth of the hips, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen |
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Auxiliary measurements |
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5 Armhole depth |
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6 Back length |
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7 Thigh height |
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8 Length of neck back |
D sh.o.sh (76) |
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9 Chest height |
B g (35 in the previous version of the dimensional standard) |
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10 Second chest height |
Br (35a in the modern version of the standard) |
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11 Front waist length |
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12 Front waist length second |
D TP1 (36 a) |
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13 Back width |
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14 Shoulder slope width |
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15 Chest width |
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16 Armhole width |
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Special measurements |
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17 Shoulder circumference |
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18 Elbow circumference |
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19 Wrist circumference |
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20 Neck circumference |
It should be noted the features of the measurements, the characteristics of which do not correspond to the modern data.
Figure 1 - Schemes for performing additional measurements in the Mueller method
Measurement "Hip height" (C b) is performed from the cervical point to the level of measurement of the girth of the hips along the spine (see Figure 1). The height of the hips can also be expressed through a series that directly characterize the length of the area under consideration or are indirectly related to it.
C b = D tf + 0.5 D tf(similar to the TsNIISHP method)
V b = D tf + 0.65 (V lt - V ps)(similar to the EMKO CMEA method)
Dimensional characteristic chest width (W d) in the Müller method, it is measured between the angles of the armpits along the protruding points of the chest (see Figure 1). For the conditions of mass production of clothing, it is impossible to obtain reliable information about the value of this measurement, due to the fact that it is not in the design standards. Therefore, its value can be obtained by calculation according to the recommendations of the methodology (see table 2). Calculation of the width of the armhole (W pr) in the technique is carried out on the basis of the established dependence of this measurement on the chest girth
W pr = 1/8 O g -1.5
Elbow girth (Oh l) required only to control the width of the narrow sleeve at the level of this structural section, is measured in a right-angled position of the arm through the protruding point of the elbow (see Figure 1).
It should be noted that the comparative characteristics of the sizes of the dimensional characteristics of typical figures of women, taken from modern design standards, and calculated according to the established dependencies, does not always confirm the reliability of the recommended calculations.
Table 2 - Calculation formulas for the control (determination) of auxiliary measurements of the female figure
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Measurement name (dimensional characteristics) |
Dimensional designation |
Method for calculating the size of the dimensional indicator |
| 1 Armhole depth | 1/10 O g + 10.5 | |
| 2 Back length | 1/4 P-1.0 | |
| 3 Hip height | D cn + G pr | |
| 4 Back neck length | 1/10 C g + 2.0 | |
| 5 Second chest height | 1/4 О g + (3 ÷ 5) | |
| 6 Front waist length second | D cn + B | |
| 7 Back width | 1/8 O g + 5.5 | |
| 8 Armhole width | 1/8 O g - 1.5 | |
| 9 Chest width | 1/4 O g -4 |
In table 2, when calculating D TP2 the component is taken into account B corresponding to the size consistent with the size of a female figure with normal posture (see table 3).
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The interval of the dimension characteristic "chest girth" |
Balance characteristic of a figure depending on its size, cm |
| 1 About g = 80-90 cm | 4,0 |
| 2 About g = 91-100 cm | 4,5 |
| 3 About g = 101-110 cm | 4.5 + 1/10 (About g -100) |
| 4 About g = 111-120 cm | 5.0 + 1/10 (About g -100) |
| 5 About g = 121-130 | 5.5 + 1/10 (About g -100) |
| 6 About g over 131 cm | 6.0 + 1/10 (About g -100) |
As additional measurements in the Mueller method, we used product length (D and) and sleeve length (D p), determined by the traditional method for all methods.
Information about the type of recommended for the calculation of the drawing is limited by the distribution characteristic N g in the corresponding areas, depending on the silhouette of the dress, as well as data on the optimal values of the allowance for freedom armholes in depth (P ref). The data on the values of the increments offered by the Mueller method for calculating the drawing of a woman's dress are presented in table 4.
Specific recommendations on the choice of silhouette increases to the width of the product along the waist line (Pt) and the hip line (Pb) are not given in the methodology. These values are characterized only in the model designs of the products presented in the issues of the magazine "Atelier".
Accounting for other values of the increments (to the longitudinal sections of the drawing, to the sections of the neck, etc.), as well as those associated with and processing of materials, is not carried out in the methodology, which significantly reduces the degree of accuracy of the calculations performed.
Table 4 - Allowances for calculating the design drawings of women's dresses of various silhouette forms in the Mueller method
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The name of the increase |
The amount of the increase depending on silhouette, cm |
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close-fitting (sleeveless) |
semi-fitted (with sleeves) |
straight and extended (with sleeve) |
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| 1. Increase to the width of the back | |||
| 2. Increase to the width of the armhole | |||
| 3. Increase to the width of the chest | |||
| 4. Increase in the freedom of the armhole in depth | |||
To calculate the design drawing according to the Mueller method, they are more often used based on empirically established relationships between the dimensions of the figure and individual sections of the drawing, as well as on the proportional ratios of dimensional characteristics among themselves, which does not always provide the required reliability and accuracy of calculations.
From a series of textbooks on the design technique and manufacturing technology of clothing.
In the book “Müller and Son. Dresses and blouses. Designing ”special attention is paid to modeling and designing for non-standard figures.
Main topics: drawings of the basic foundations of products, dresses and blouses of fashionable silhouettes, construction of collars, sleeves of various cuts, draperies, corsage, fancy dresses... The book contains detailed drawings with detailed explanations.
Buy the book “M.Müller and Son. Dresses and blouses. Construction "in the store konliga.biz If you do not see the cover of the magazine in the squareplease update Adobe Flash Player.
Volume: 260 pages
Format: 215x316 mm.
Hardcover, dust jacket.
Released in 2007.
I. Measurement of the figure and calculation of dimensional characteristics
II. Basic product drawings
III. Modeling dresses and blouses
IV. Set-in sleeves for dresses and blouses
V. All about the shoulder and armhole
Vi. Sleeves of various cuts (kimono sleeves)
1. Raglan sleeves
2. One-piece sleeves with gussets
3. Sleeves in high volume products
4. Sleeves in a product with a square armhole
5. One-piece sleeves
Vii. Collars
VIII. Special Drawings
IX. Drapery
X. Complex shapes
Volume: 260 pages
Format: 215x316 mm.
Hardcover, dust jacket.
Released in 2007.
Content
I. Measurement of the figure and calculation of dimensional characteristics
- Table (form) with dimensional characteristics
- Measurement of the figure
- Calculation of auxiliary dimensional characteristics
- Increases for freedom of fit
- Table of dimensional characteristics of typical figures of women
II. Basic product drawings
- Drawing of the basic basis of a semi-adjacent silhouette dress
- Drawing of the basic basis of a dress for enterprises of mass production of clothing
- Allowances for seam processing in the base frame drawing
- Drawing of the basic basis of a dress for a full figure
- Drawing of the basic basis of a straight silhouette dress
- Conversion of the basic body of a semi-fitted dress to design more free-form products
- Conversion of the basic basis of a straight silhouette dress for designing models without bust darts
- Drawing of the basic base of a blouse with bust darts
- Drawing of the basic base of a blouse without chest darts
III. Modeling dresses and blouses
- Cut-off dress along the waist line
- Transfer of the dart to the convexity of the shoulder blades to the cut of the neck
- Translation of darts on the front of the bodice
- Dress with embossed shoulder
- Dresses with reliefs from the armhole (with Viennese seams)
- Dresses with wedges year
- Dress with embossed armholes and short bust darts
- Dress with a detachable yoke and pleats
- Dress with reliefs from the neckline and armholes
- Empire style dress with horizontal seam under the bust
- Dress with set-in belt and boat neck
- Dress with a figured set-in belt and V-neck
- Dress with asymmetric flounce and asymmetrical neckline (neckline in Indian sari style)
- Dress with curly ruffle and "American" armhole
- Three dresses with low-slung stitching lines with wide ruffles and flounces
- Dress-coat of an adjacent silhouette with a shawl collar
- Dress-coat of a straight silhouette with an offset open fastener with a jacket-type collar
- Dress shirt
- Dress with rectangular reliefs, decorated with pleats
- Pants dress
- Long dress with a train
- Classic blouse-shirt with yokes on the shelves and back
- Blouse with plastron, decorated with stitched pleats
- Blouse without darts with stitched diagonal pleats
- Blouse with a curly bottom in the style of a vest
- Blouse with pleats and detachable peplum
- Top in lingerie style
- Top with pleats
- Blouse with stitched belt and open back
- Bolero jacket
IV. Set-in sleeves for dresses and blouses
- First the armhole, then the sleeve!
- Construction of a set-in sleeve of medium width for a dress
- Important! Control of the width of the sleeve and the height of the sleeve ridge
- Determination of the width of the sleeve and the height of the ridge
- Determination of the size of the fit along the edge of the sleeve
- Construction of a sleeve on a typical figure
- Set-in sleeve of medium width for dress (for enterprises of mass production of clothes)
- Seam allowances in the sleeve drawing
- Narrow set-in sleeve for a dress
- Construction of a set-in sleeve of medium width for a dress for a full figure
- Two-seam set-in sleeve with upper and lower cuts
- Sleeve with extension along the bottom line
- Sleeve with gathers (drapery) at the bottom of the top seam
- Sleeves-puff with gathers along the edge
- Sleeve-puff with folds along the side
- Sleeve-puff with a large expansion in the area of the upper part
- Sleeve with gathers on the side and bottom, with a wide fitting cuff
- Sleeve with crossed folds (scissor folds)
- Construction of a wide set-in sleeve with a stitched cuff
- Some types of stitched cuffs for sleeves
- Models of extended sleeves with stitched cuffs
- Sleeve with a one-piece turn-down cuff (with a turn-up)
- Construction of a set-in sleeve with a low rim with a stitched cuff
- Conversion of a medium width set-in sleeve with a normal rounding height to obtain a free-form, low rounding sleeve
- Construction of set-in short sleeves
- Short sleeve expansion options
- Bell sleeve or wing sleeve
- Sleeve-balloon
- Tulip sleeve
- Short sleeves with a one-piece fold-over cuff (with a turn-up)
- Short sleeve with a detachable curly turn-down cuff
V. All about the shoulder and armhole
- Shoulder width
- Deepening the armhole
- Armhole lengthening
- Conversions of the front, back and sleeves in the ridge area for models with upper shoulder pads
Vi. Sleeves of various cuts (kimono sleeves)
1. Raglan sleeves
- Raglan sleeve
- Further development of the raglan sleeve design
- Three options for raglan sleeves of different sizes
- Half-raglan sleeve
- Raglan sleeve yoke
- One-piece sleeve with Viennese seams
- One-piece sleeve with cross-seam
- Raglan sleeve in products with yokes
2. One-piece sleeves with gussets
- Preparatory stage for the construction of one-piece sleeves with gussets
- One-piece sleeve with gusset and low ridge (drawing base)
- One-piece sleeve with gusset and high ridge (drawing base)
- One-piece sleeve with diamond gusset
- One-piece sleeve with a gusset that passes into the lower part of the sleeve
- One-piece sleeve with a gusset that passes into the cut-off side of the product
- One-piece sleeves with gusset
- Subsequent elongation of the okat on the product patterns
3. Sleeves in high volume products
- Sleeves in products with a shortened shoulder line
- Sleeves in products with an extended shoulder line
4. Sleeves in a product with a square armhole
5. One-piece sleeves
- One-piece short sleeve
- One-piece sleeves, constructed by combining the details of the set-in sleeve with the details of the front and back
- One-piece sleeve in bulky items with front and back widening along the side lines
- Raglan sleeve in soft products, built on the basis of a one-piece sleeve
- Elongation of the lower edge of the sleeve
- Elongation of the upper edge of the sleeve
- One-piece sleeve with a low-lying section of transition of the lower edge of the sleeve to the line of the side edge of the product
- One-piece batwing sleeve
- One-piece batwing sleeve without bottom seam
Vii. Collars
- First the neckline, then the collar!
- Set-in racks
- Stand-up turn-down collars with one-piece and cut-off shirt-type stand
- Stand-up turn-down collars built on the basis of a right angle
- Flat collar with round ends
- Stand-up collar with fastening at the shoulder line
- One-piece stand-up collars
- One-piece stand with lapels and narrow shawl collar
- Stand-up collar with lapels
- Collar with cascade effect
- Jacket collars built on a shelf
- Collars built by combining the front and back
- Flat lay decorative collar
- Wide jacket-style collar, built when combining the shelf and back
- Wide collar with lapels and concave folds
- Wide stand-up collar with a one-piece stand, built by combining the front and back
- Stand-up collar with detachable stand
- Stand-up collar with rectangular ends in a garment with an enlarged V-neck
- Sailor style collar
- Collar pagoda in the product with a strongly widened neckline
VIII. Special Drawings
- Mock-up of a shoulder piece of an adjacent silhouette of a low degree of freedom
- Two-seam sleeve for a mock-up of a shoulder piece of an adjacent silhouette with a low degree of freedom
- German national dress bodice
- Corsage
IX. Drapery
- Bodice with radial drape (Roman pleats)
- Bodice with insert, draped with Roman pleats and one-piece stand
- Wrap bodice with asymmetric side seam drape
- Dress with asymmetrical draping from the shoulder
- Dress with asymmetrical drapery and wide front panel
X. Complex shapes
- Big breasts - straight back - flat buttocks
- Slouching figure
- Other options for converting the back
- Dropped front waistline
- Lowered waistline at the back, as well as protruding shoulder blades, hips shifted forward
- Full, protruding buttocks
- Full figure with protruding belly
- Various sleeve transformations
- High shoulders - low (sloping) shoulders
- Correction of the patterns of the product with raglan sleeves for a figure with high shoulders
- Correction of the patterns of the product with one-piece sleeves with gussets for a figure with high shoulders
- Asymmetrical figure
- Changing patterns to increase the width of the details along the chest line
- Changing patterns for women of tall or short stature
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