Preparing the product for the first fitting carried out in the following sequence:

Checking the cut

laying copy lines on the details of the product along the lines of seams and constructive lines;

sweeping of breast tucks, seams, folds;

grinding of darts, seams, folds that do not change when trying on;

· WTO details, creating the shape of the product;

· production of gasket parts, processing of onboard and insulating (for winter coats) gaskets;

connection of shelves and lower collar with adhesive pads;

Temporary installation includes operations:

Sweeping parts of shelves, backs, sleeves and seams;

Sweeping side and shoulder sections of the product;

Rolling up the bottom of the product and sleeves;

Sweeping the lower collar into the neck;

Stitching the sleeves into the armhole (in the women's right, in the men's left);

In products for kinky figures, for figures with different levels shoulders for fitting, both sleeves should be tucked in.

During temporary installation of the product, all decorative and structural details of the product that determine the style of the product must be swept in: patch pockets, cuffs, trims; the product must be carefully ironed.

1.1.8 Carrying out the first fitting.
Making changes after the first fitting in MK and templates

The order of the fitting:

1. clarification of the fit of the product on the figure;

2. clarification of the shape and proportions of the product, taking into account individual features figures of the customer;

3. clarification of the shape, size and position of decorative and finishing details;

4. detection of technological defects in the product.

Clarification of the fit of the product on the figure

The product is put on, straightened, the middle of the front is combined and they are cleaved with pins on the line of the chest, waist and loops.

Fitting of women's products is performed on the right side, men's - on the left. First you need to establish the cause of the defect, and then proceed to the scaling.

With a proper fit, the lines of the middle of the shelves, back and side seams should be vertical, the lines of the chest, waist and hips should be horizontal. In this case, there should be no creases and distortions.

During the fitting, first of all, the anterior-posterior and lateral balance of the product, the shape and length of the sleeve are specified.

Incorrect fit of the product on the figure consists in the incorrect location of the sides of the shelves (they may diverge or unnecessarily find one on top of the other).

Having specified the length of the sleeve, its shape and width at the top and bottom, the sleeve is separated from the armhole. To achieve balance, open the shoulder seam, release or take stock at the highest point of the shoulder seam and neck. In this case, you should pay attention to how the shelf fits the figure on the shoulder area, in the neck, chest and armholes, and the back - in the neck, shoulder blades and armholes. Then check the correctness of the ratio of the width of the neck of the back and the shelf, the correct location and direction of the shoulder seam, in women's coats and jackets - the length and opening of the chest darts, the length and opening of the darts on the back (from the shoulder seam) and the size of the fit of the shoulder seam of the back.

Distortions of the shoulder seam are eliminated by moving the back and shelves relative to each other.

Then specify the direction of the side seams. In products that are adjacent and semi-adjacent at the waist, it is checked whether the waist line of the figure corresponds to the waist line of the product; at the same time, at the level of the intended waistline, the darts and reliefs should have the largest opening.

On a figure that has deviations from conditionally proportional, and on a figure with asymmetrical sides, both sides of the product are specified.

If the armhole is small, mark it with chalk and cut off the fabric that breaks. They outline the line for stitching the sleeve and prick the sleeve, specifying the position along the collar and along the sleeve so that there are no creases on it. The sleeve is pricked at three points: against the shoulder seam and at the axillary angles from the back and front. Then specify the width of the sleeve and pin up the bottom.

Then at precise the shape, size and position of the decorative and finishing parts of the product. The shape and proportions of the product are compared with the drawing of the model. To clarify the shape of the product can be changed side seams, tucks, reliefs and other constructive lines. By changing, thus, the ratio of the widths of the back and the shelves, you can visually veil the flaws of the figure.

An important milestone fitting is to clarify the position of the loops, the shape of the lapel and collar, and if the shoulder seams were torn, then the lines connecting the collar with the neck. Specify the height of the stand and the width of the collar at the back in the middle, at the level of the shoulder seams and at the ends, check the degree of fit to the neck.

Having specified the position of the lines of the side seams, the silhouette, the bottom of the product, they specify the shape and position on the main details of pockets, valves, pats, etc. The shape and dimensions of the finishing parts can be specified during the fitting, but they can be completely made for the fitting.

When grinding the product with dry soap or chalk, a new position of the lines is noted, control marks are placed to connect the parts. The product is marked out, chalked and cut along new lines, changes are made to the patterns.

Sample preparation. Trying on is a responsible and complex operation, thanks to which all cutting inaccuracies are eliminated, the style is “customized” to a given figure.

The work boils down to three main points:

clarification of the fit of the product on the figure;

clarification of the shape and proportions of the product, taking into account the individual characteristics of the figure;

clarification of the shape, size and placement of the finishing details of the product.

The number of fittings can be different (usually from one to three) and depends on how accurately the product was tailored, on the features of the figure, as well as on the complexity of the chosen style.

You should not do too many fittings, as the raw edges of the parts

deformed, which will spoil the appearance of the finished product. Particular care must be taken with easily stretchable rayon and staple fabrics. In products made from these fabrics, it is useful to lay stitches along the edges of individual parts or baste the edges before trying them on, which will protect the cutouts from stretching.

When preparing the product for fitting, use pins, threads, sharpened chalk, the rest (soap) of toilet soap. For cotton fabrics, a cutter is used; for wool and silk, chalk, soap or thread snares are used.

After cutting, before trying on, threads are laid on the product, indicating the centers of the front and back, control points for connecting individual parts, designate all lines of the style. With a cutter or small lines, lines are laid immediately on two layers of fabric. First you need to circle the pattern, then chip it off, fold the right side of the part with the left one so that their contours strictly match, and “beat off” the chalk on the lower part. If the lines are badly marked, circle them again. There is another way to move lines. Marking is done with chalk or soap and the lines are transferred to the second part with pins. According to their marks again. draw lines.

Along the laid lines, the details are swept from the middle to the edges, that is, first the inner lines of the tucks, folds are connected, and then the shoulder and side seams, the collar, and then the right sleeve. If necessary, shoulder pads and finishing details (pockets, frills, inserts, etc.) are prepared. When basting the shoulder seams (if there are no relief lines on the back resting against the shoulder sections), the fabric is adjusted for a proper fit. The fit is increased for a more convex back or developed shoulder blades and distributed along the shoulder seam of the back. Instead of landing, a tuck is laid, the size of which is determined during the fitting.

Before sweeping a particular seam, it is stabbed with pins that are placed across so that they do not interfere with the stitch. If the dress is one-piece, the first pin is placed along the waist line and then up and down from it. The shoulder seams are folded from the ends to the center, the sleeves are folded from the top and bottom to the center of the seam, the top collar with the bottom one is from the middle to the ends, the bodice with the skirt is from the middle of the back and the front to the side seams, the skirt is from the hip line up and down, darts - from the narrow end to the wide end.

First sample. When trying on, it is better to wear the same underwear that was worn when taking the measurements. Shoes, hairstyle and jewelry are also of great importance: this will allow you to more fully imagine appearance future product.

The sour cream is put on carefully so as not to rip the seams and stretch open sections. After that, they straighten the fabric on the figure, pin the back and shelves to the linen in the middle and then proceed to fitting, that is, fitting the product to the figure. The sample starts with right side person trying on products.

During the fitting, the pins are injected across the seams and lines, then they are less deformed, the pins do not interfere with removing and putting on the product. Pins are a utility tool suitable for any fabric. To mark individual control points on the sections, notches (small cuts in the tissues) are made.

If there are no complex lines on the back, you can make a split on it, and then on the shelf. The main changes to the outlined lines on the back usually concern the shoulder seams (reserves in the seams, fit from the back), side seams and darts at the waistline.

Having eliminated these inaccuracies, they begin to fit the shelves to the figure. It's better to start with darts. When piercing them, do not forget about observing the style. Having finished the main corrections, they determine the waist line, as when taking measurements (they tie a narrow cord around the waist, along which the skirt is then pinned).

When the lines of the style of the bodice have a connection with the lines on the skirt, they are combined along the waist line. Darts on the skirt and bodice may not match, as their location depends on the features of the style or figure. Usually the darts on the skirt are located further from the center than the darts on the bodice, or coincide with them. Having corrected the lines on all the details of the skirt, set the length (measure the distance from the floor to the bottom of the skirt). Then pin up the collar and sleeve. The collar is pinned up from the middle of the back to the middle of the front, slightly pulling it to the neck. The sleeves are pre-assembled on a thread, one end of which remains loose, so that, by trying on, you can easily change the fit depending on the figure. The tuck provided in the collar of the sleeve should serve as a continuation of the line of the shoulder seam.

The position of the sleeve in the armhole is considered correct if the sleeve length line (in the center of the collar) is located vertically (sheer). To do this, the sleeve begins to be pricked from above to the shoulder seam or next to it, and then along the bodice and sides.

The largest landing in the sleeve usually come * to the front of the eye, a little smaller - to the back; do not make landings at hand.

At the fitting, the trim is finally placed on the bodice and skirt and the cut points for the loops are marked.

Preparing for the second fitting. Before removing the item after trying it on, pins are broken off in the centers and check if there are any pins left that attach the dress to the linen. Then all new lines are marked with threads on the bodice and on the skirt, the bodice is chipped off the skirt; on the sleeve, the middle of the sleeve is marked opposite the shoulder seam, the line of tucking in the sleeve along the armhole, the places where the fit is restricted., On the collar, the position of the shoulder seam and the middle of the front are marked, then the sleeve and collar are chipped off.

The laying of new lines on the bodice and skirt begins with side and shoulder sections, then darts and style lines; as needed, the seams are split.

After clarifying the lines and seams on the details of the right side, all new lines are carefully laid with threads. They seem to serve as a substitute for chalk (so as not to draw with chalk on front side). When laying the threads, make sure that the parts are not fastened together, the threads must go along one layer of fabric, and the part remains flat. On these threads from the wrong side, they again grind, the threads are removed. All new chalk lines are transferred to the second side of the part. The product is again swept away, the reliefs, darts are grinded, ironed, the slack on the darts is sewn up, and then the side and shoulder seams are grinded. Process the clasp.

For the second fitting, only the collar and sleeves are left tucked in (not sewn on), and the bottom of the skirt is not hemmed. Sometimes the bodice with a skirt along the waist line and finishing details remain sour.

Second sample. The purpose of the second fitting is to check the quality of the processed lines, the correctness of the collar, sleeves and basting of the finishing details.

All line corrections on the product are performed in the same order as in the first fitting. They sew in a collar, sleeves, process and iron finishing details, make shoulder pads. The product is ironed completely and the buttons and shoulder straps are sewn last.

To clarify the correct fit on the figure, the product prepared for fitting is put on and carefully straightened. Then put on and attach the shoulder pads. If the product has a clasp, they combine the lines of the middle of the front and the waist lines (in semi-adjacent and fitted products) and cut off with pins at the level of the loops.

If the product has the correct fit, the figure should not have any distortions, creases. The front and back should have the correct plumb line, as evidenced by the vertical position of their centers.

If there are deficiencies, it is necessary first of all to establish the causes of their occurrence, then eliminate them.

The fitting of women's products is performed on the right side. First of all, the balance of the product is clarified. Clarification is recommended to be carried out by splitting the shoulder seams, releasing or taking them at the highest points of the neck. To do this, you need to open the shoulder seam, straighten the sleeve, after specifying its shape, width at the top and bottom. When splitting the shoulder seams, attention should be paid to the correct fit of the front on the shoulder area in the neck, armhole, chest and back.

It is also necessary to clarify the size of the solution and the length of the chest and shoulder darts. Then you should pay attention to the ratio of the width of the neck of the back and the shelf (front) and the correct location of the shoulder seam. Shoulder seams should be tattooed with a false seam, bending the cut edge of the back. Pins are inserted across the seam, which allows you to properly focus the fit in the right place

and provides accurate determination of the direction of the seam.

In thin fabrics, the wrong balance of the product can be corrected by pinning excess fabric at the back and front parallel to the shoulder seam, if the shoulder sections do not need to be moved along the neck.

The balance is clarified by shifting the back and the front along the side seam in the case when the allowances along the shoulder cut turned out to be small to correct deficiencies and if the allowance for a free fit to the length of the back to the waist line was incorrectly determined in the presence of a large curvature of the back or bulge of the shoulder blades. If it is enough to clarify the shape and volume of the product due to the side seam, it is chopped off by bending the cut edge of the back and sticking pins across the seam.

Sometimes, even in a properly balanced product, it is necessary to clarify the section of the top of the armhole due to an inaccurate measurement - the height of the shoulder is oblique. In these cases, the shoulder seam is also ripped along the entire length, releasing stocks or taking away excess fabric, while maintaining the correct direction of the seam from the armhole to the neck.

On figures that have a deviation from conditionally proportional, as well as in cases of asymmetry of the sides of the figure, both sides of the product should be clarified.

In adjacent and semi-adjacent products, the waistline is outlined in accordance with the proportions dictated by the shape of the product and the features of the figure's physique.

After clarifying the main structural sections on the figure, they begin to refine the shape with the selected silhouette and taking into account the individual features of the figure.

The shape of the product is refined by changing the tucks, reliefs, determining their correct direction and position, as well as the size and level of solutions. If only the direction of the reliefs or other decorative lines is changed without changing the solutions, then it is more expedient to mark the new position with chalk without tearing the sour cream seams.

For the final clarification of the overall shape of the product, it is recommended to pin the sleeve again, having previously outlined the line for sewing in the sleeve, while paying special attention to the correct plumb line of the sleeve and the shape of the rim.

Finally, the length of the product and the sleeve is specified, while determining the correct proportions of the product.

The last step in the fitting is to determine the location, size and shape of the details (collar, pockets, valves, cuffs, etc.).

If the shoulder seams were split, then, before finding the shape of the collar, the neckline is specified. The collar is pinned along the neckline, its shape, the height of the stand, the degree of backlog or fit to the neck are specified.

The dimensions, shape and location of individual parts are specified in accordance with the style, features and proportions of the figure, subordinating all the details to the general shape and nature of the product, and at the same time, the loops are marked.

When trying on costumes, first they clarify the lines and quality of the fit of the skirt, then the upper part of the set. After trying on, the product is removed from the figure, the chalk marks made during the fitting are clarified. Clear chalk lines are drawn along the corrected lines of the right side of the product along the pins or threads are laid with running stitches Chalk lines (or threads) are laid along all the changed lines, as well as along the lines of the hem of the sleeve and armholes, neck, waist, bottom of the product and sleeve.Then, unnecessary stitches, pins are removed, the parts are ironed, the symmetrical parts are cleaved off with the right side up and finally outlined all the details, and then transferred with copy stitches to a symmetrical part.

Preparation of the product for the second fitting. By the second fitting in the product, all tucks, relief lines, folds, gathers, tucks of the bodice must be processed.

pockets, sides, collar, sleeves, side and shoulder sections are stitched, sleeves are rolled in. The second fitting is carried out in the same sequence as the first. The product is put on the figure, they check the correct fit, the width and length of the product, the correct execution of the lines, the connection of the collar with the neck, the sleeve with the armhole. If necessary, make appropriate corrections to the product.

Topic. Preparing the shoulder product for the first fitting.

Target. Expansion of knowledge about the preparation of the product for fitting; formation
skills of preparation and carrying out fitting, elimination of the revealed defects;
development of attention, visual memory; competence formation
personality in the field of economic activity and Everyday life:
positive attitude to work, education of the basics
culture of work, polytechnical thinking.

Equipment. Tables "Defects of shoulder products and methods for their
troubleshooting”, “magazine” pages, product samples, instruction cards,
test tasks with a matrix of answers, a poster with drawings of seam samples,
score sheet, ball, paper, markers

Tools and materials. Threads, needles, scissors, cut details,
tailor's pins, tailor's chalk.

Lesson type. Combined.

Lesson progress

I. Organizing time

Checking the readiness of workplaces for the lesson.

II. Announcement of the topic, setting learning objectives, motivation.

I propose to conduct today's lesson in the form of an oral journal, each
the page of which indicates a certain stage of the lesson. So the topic is
"Preparation of the shoulder product for 1 fitting." In the lesson you will
the opportunity to demonstrate and expand their knowledge of the treatment of shoulder
products, improve the skills of processing individual parts, working with
technical documentation.

1st page of our magazine "Ethnographic"

We are engaged in the manufacture of shoulder products, and therefore it is impossible not to
remember the most popular, traditional type of clothing for our country
- shirt. In Ukraine, according to custom, the girl had to personally
sew and embroider 35 shirts. It was believed that not everyone is able to make
good shirt. Then came the saying:

“So be born, what to marvel at, my people, but you can’t sew a shirt,”

“Yes, that’s where you’re going, but she doesn’t have the mind to sew a shirt,”

“Uncleanly sewed, mov kilim, but smili on the back”,

"Merezhka - there is a branch, and there is a sore."

As you can see, girls have long been valued for their diligence, accuracy,
artistic taste, for their golden hands.

One of the main features of the Ukrainian mentality is neatness. In folk
the song in the processing of M. Lysenko says:

And they have a bag,

The one for this shirt

And I have one, Schob they have a bag,

That and that was good. I didn't swear. And I'll get wet in the evening, I'll
them zalyubki

Opivnochi rinse, Vidib’yu parubkiv.

I think that we, people living in the 21st century, should not forget about our
roots, and, of course, in the ability not to yield to their great-, great-grandmothers.

II. Updating the basic knowledge and skills of students

2nd page - "Terminological"

Now it is necessary to show knowledge of the terminology of manual and machine work.
Before you on the tables are the forms of test tasks (Appendix 1).
Choose the correct answer and circle the letters a, b or
v. 2 minutes are allotted for this work.

Now let's do a pair check. Exchange tests with a neighbor
and pick up the matrix of correct answers. It needs to be put on the form.
tests so that the upper signal square coincides with the hole in
matrix. Correct answers will now be marked in red
circles. Count the number of errors. You have 1 minute to check.

Raise your hand, who made 3, 2, 1 mistakes. It's nice that you
understand the terminology, this knowledge will be useful today in the lesson.

Page 3 - "Blitz Poll"

Let's play a little: whoever has the ball in his hands must answer
to a question.

What is the preparation of the details of the cut of the shoulder product?

Which lines are used for copy stitches?

What is the purpose of preparing the details of the cut?

How should tucks be swept?

What safety rules should be followed while working with
needles and pins? With scissors?

III. Learning new material.

Next page - "Theoretical"

1. Preparation of the product for the first fitting.

Preparing a product for the first fitting is in many ways similar to that which
was carried out when sewing a product in the 8th grade. The following operations are added
like tucking fasteners and tucking sleeves.

The sequence of preparing the product for fitting:

1. Chip and sweep the product in the following order:

a) chop and sweep tucks (shoulder and chest - from top to
slices, waist - from top to top);

b) chop and sweep the shoulder sections of the back and front;

c) chip and sweep side cuts, matching the waist lines.

2. In products cut along the waist or hips, baste the top of the product
to the skirt along the copy stitches, combining the middle lines on the back and
shelves and side seams.

3. Notice the clasp by bending the pick along the bead line towards the wrong side.

4. Baste the seam of the right sleeve.

Instructions for conducting practical work are on your desks.

2. Carrying out the first fitting, elimination of defects.

Question: What is the purpose of sampling?

After clarifying the fit of the product on the figure, checking the location
darts, side, shoulder seams, depth of neckline and armholes,
sleeves are being fitted. The sleeve is attached to the armhole, combining the highest
eye point with a shoulder seam (for a stooped figure, the center of the eye is moved
1 - 1.5 cm to the front, and for the kinky - to the back), control
the points of the eyelet are combined with the control points of the armhole.

With proper fit, clothing should not have creases, wrinkles and
distortions. Let's get acquainted with possible product defects using
table.

(working with the table "Defects of the shoulder product and methods for their elimination")

We are turning the next page - it is called
"Vocational Guidance"

What professions related to textile processing do you know?

!””Z”oesseeOOEe?E??E??EE§

(Fashion designer, cutter, seamstress-minder, tailor, ironer)

Let us dwell in more detail on the work of a seamstress-mechanic, since this
the most massive profession of clothing production.

(Student's message)

Place of work - garment factories, ateliers of individual tailoring,
sewing production associations. From literacy and sewing skills
depends on the quality of the finished product.

In the process of work, the seamstress-minder has to select the numbers of needles and
threads, thread and adjust their tension; install needles and
paws; adjust the length and frequency of machine stitches for different
fabrics; read technical documentation on product processing; fulfill
lines of various configurations.

She must be able to handle and work with special machines: for
quilting operations, buttonholes, hemming, overcasting
details. In addition, the seamstress-mechanic cleans and lubricates the machine, and when
troubleshoot as needed. In order to properly process the product,
you need to understand the fibrous composition of tissues, perform
mathematical calculations, know the laws of symmetry and visual illusion.

All this can be learned in secondary vocational schools.
schools where you can enter after the end of the ninth or
eleventh grade.

There are a number of essential requirements for the profession of a seamstress-minder.
They are due to the fact that during the labor process, the seamstress must
constantly be in a certain area of ​​the production environment, the working
her posture is fixed, communication with other workers is excluded, work
requires constant attention, concentration and accuracy.

The work of a seamstress-mechanic is monotonous if she does not own several
related technological operations. He is performing
and does not provide for direct creativity, with the exception of
improving working methods.

One should not equate the professions of a seamstress-mechanic and a tailor, who
carries out all the functions of auxiliary and main activities.

I ask you to answer the question: what are the requirements of the profession
seamstress-mechanic to personality? (student answers)

Now you can check it, because the next page of our
magazine - "Psychological".

Exercise for training visual memory.

I will show you a poster showing 5 stitch patterns. All of them
numbered. You need within 6 sec. consider carefully
them and remember what you see. After that I show one of
samples, and you need to remember under what number it was depicted on
poster.

The one who answered correctly has a good visual memory.

Second question: what seam was depicted in this picture? What is he for
applied? (student answers)

IV. Primary consolidation of new knowledge and skills of students

We open the page - "Control"

Don't let the name scare you, we'll just repeat and reinforce everything about
what was discussed in today's lesson.

(Work in small groups)

To do this, we will divide into small groups, each of which will receive
exercise. In a group, you need to discuss the problem, find a solution and
present the results of your work. 5 minutes. for discussion.

Develop criteria for evaluating a product prepared for the first
fitting.

How will the sequence of preparing the product for fitting change if
does the style change (for example, is there a coquette, embossed lines)?

Put the steps in the first step in the correct order.
fitting.

(discussion and presentation of answers)

V. Practical work

Next page - "Practical"

You need to prepare the product for the first fitting, conduct it, if
it is possible to identify and eliminate defects. Conducting instructions
practical work you will find on the desktop. Don't forget about
compliance with safety rules when working with pins, needles and
scissors.

VI. Summarizing

Page "Summary"

Let's move on to summing up (work in pairs). You need to carry out
peer-assessment using the criteria developed earlier. results
write it down on the score sheet.

Most successfully coped with the task ... (demonstration the best works).
Typical errors are caused, most often, by a violation of technology,
inattention, haste (demonstration of typical mistakes - if
available)

We did a good job, I hope you learned something new for you
interesting; prepared the product for further processing. Lesson grade
will represent the average score for theoretical and practical
part of the lesson. Please complete the assessment sheet completely.

VII. Homework

Last page - "Farewell"

For the next lesson, you need to prepare tools and materials
for tailoring.

The lesson is over.

Annex 1

"TERMINOLOGY OF MANUAL AND MACHINE WORKS"

1. Temporary connection of two parts, approximately identical in
size is called:

A) sweeping;

B) basting;

B) stitching.

2. Temporarily attaching a smaller part to a larger one is:

A) stitching;

B) tagging;

B) wrapping.

3. The connection of two parts with an overlay is called:

A) basting;

B) sweeping;

B) tuning.

4. The connection of two or more parts, approximately the same
to size:

A) stitching;

B) tuning;

B) staking.

5. Connection of parts of various sizes:

A) sweeping;

B) stitching;

B) turning.

6. The connection of two parts, in which one wrong side
superimposed on the front side of the other:

A) squandering

B) basting;

B) tuning.

If you are sewing clothes according to verified patterns, and you are absolutely sure that the fit and balance of the product will be observed almost perfectly, you still need to do a few fittings. What to say about non-standard figures? In this case, fittings are simply necessary and their number is determined during tailoring and depends not only on the complexity of the model, the fabric from which the product is sewn, but also on the professionalism of the tailor. We will tell you how to prepare the product for fitting and how to carry it out correctly.

Important points when trying on products: dresses and blouses are tried on in underwear, jackets - in a shirt, coats - in a sweater or jacket.

First fitting: everything is according to the rules!

In order to prepare the product for the first fitting, it is necessary to sweep tucks, seams, transfer with basting stitches to the front side the lines of the semi-skid of the shelves, the folds of the lapels, the location of the loops (if they are provided in the product), the location of the pockets, stalemate, etc. If on the back of the dress a zipper is provided, it should be swept in. You also need to roll up the sleeves. Sweep allowances on the bottom of the product. If the product has shoulder pads, fitting should be done with them.

It is advisable to transfer the lines of the chest, waist, hips to the front side with basting stitches. This will simplify the process of adjusting the balance of the product, if necessary.

Put the prepared product on the customer (by the customer we mean the one for whom the product is sewn), fasten the zipper on the dress, on the jacket or jacket, cut off both shelves along the half-skid line, aligning the details along the waist line and along the bottom of the product.

Do not rush to immediately start pinching the seams, first carefully evaluate the fit of the product, the balance of the front and back of the product, the coincidence of horizontal lines (chest, waist, bottom of the product).

What should be done on the first fitting?

At the first fitting, you should evaluate the general appearance of the product and the fit, the width and length of the back and shelves, sleeves, the length and opening of the tucks, the location of the relief seams and decorative details. If the product has sleeves, at the first fitting, check the width and length of the sleeve, fold and sweep the sleeves to the desired length, then separate the sleeve from the product and proceed to eliminate fit defects, if necessary.

Product balance is important!

Product balance - this definition frightens many, but there is nothing complicated here, the main thing is to understand how to correctly assess the balance of the product and how to correct fit defects, if any.

IMPORTANT! If during construction basic pattern you accurately took measurements of the product, there should be no problems with the balance of the product.

Many experienced tailors when taking measurements, a shoulder pad is used, which is very easy to sew, but it will be an indispensable assistant in taking the most important measurements that form the balance of the product.

Rice. 1. Pattern and details of the cut of the shoulder pad

Carve out thick fabric 2 parts of the front and back halves of the lining without seam allowances. Fold both pieces wrong sides together and overcast along the contour with a zig-zag or overlay seam.

Sew 4 inlays 0.5 cm wide and 0.5 m long and stitch along the markup. Mark the line of the shoulder seam with a machine stitch with contrasting threads.

To fix the waist circumference, sew an inlay 0.5 cm wide and equal to 2 waist circumferences in length. When taking or checking measurements, tie an overlay around the neck, and around the waist with an inlay, fixing with it the inlays sewn to the overlay on the shelf and back.

Rice. 2. Shoulder pad on mannequin

With the help of such an overlay, it is very convenient to take measurements associated with the waist line, shoulder length and neck circumference.

Rice. 3. Taking measurements of shoulder length using the shoulder pad

So what is product balance? This is the balance of all parts of the product worn on the figure - the correspondence of the shoulder and side seams, the waist line and the chest line and their full compliance with the customer's figure.

The measurements that form the basis of the balance of the product are the length of the front to the waist (BTR) and the length of the back to the waist (BTS). They are also called balance sheets.

Rice. 4. Taking measurements Length of the front to the waist (accident)

Rice. 5. Taking measurements Back to waist length (BTR)

There are 3 types of balance: anteroposterior, lateral and balance, which characterizes a kind of combination of the supporting part of the part with its lower part.

The most common product defects are associated with a violation of the anteroposterior (or vertical) balance (determined by the waist line) and lateral (or horizontal) balance - determined by the angle of the shoulder sections.

If balance defects are visible during fitting, it is necessary to pinch the shoulder seams (use pins), and mark the location of the seam itself with chalk.

IMPORTANT! If the anteroposterior balance is disturbed, a more complex adjustment is required, which we will discuss in more detail a little later.

Specify the length of the product, the location of the relief seams, the location of pockets and loops. Cut the neckline of the front, back and armholes (without allowances) with chalk on the front side of the fabric, inject the collar into the neck. Transfer all changes made during fitting to paired parts.

The second fitting - increased readiness

When preparing the product for the second fitting, it is necessary to grind and iron the darts and embossed seams(except shoulder and side), sew in a zipper, process pockets.

The second fitting should be carried out in the same way as the first, but the level of readiness of the product is much higher, so you can more confidently make changes if necessary, compare the resulting silhouette with a sketch of the model and adjust the silhouette by narrowing or widening the side seams.

Advice! When trying on the side seams of the dress, it will be easier to adjust if you put the product on the wrong side up. Pinch off the seam allowances with pins, then carefully remove the product and stitch along the basting.

The need for a third and subsequent fittings depends on the complexity of the model, the quality of the fabric and the level of your professionalism. After sewing the product, remove all basting stitches, pins and sew wet heat treatment products.

We wish you to improve your sewing skills, because even experienced craftsmen always have something to learn. Sew beautiful things and wear them with pleasure!

High quality products for individual orders are ensured
first of all, timely identification and elimination of their shortcomings
(defects) during fitting.

Clothes are made with one or two fittings, depending on the complexity of the style, the individual characteristics of the customer and the qualifications of the cutter. At the same time, the task of the cutter is to help choose the style of the product, taking into account the individual characteristics of the customer, the direction of fashion and the properties of materials.

The need for fittings is also caused by the calculation and graphic methods used in practical work in the development of the primary design of the product, which are approximate design methods.

There are three key points to keep in mind when testing products:

Clarification of the fit of the product on the figure;

Refinement of the shape and proportions of the product, taking into account the individual characteristics of the figure;

Clarification of the size, shape and position of finishing parts in the product.

Similar to individual production, fittings are also carried out when designing new models for mass production. The only difference is that fitting and design refinement is carried out on a typical figure. base size or on a mannequin.

All defects arising in the process of design development and manufacturing of products are divided into three groups: structural, technological and modeling defects. In this manual, only design defects that are not related to modeling errors are considered.

The following stages of work on refinement of structures are distinguished:

1. Preparation of the product for the first fitting.

2. Carrying out the first fitting.

3. Making changes to the product based on the results of the first fitting.

4. Carrying out the second fitting.

5. Final production of a product for an individual figure or a model sample for a typical figure.

Despite the fact that for various kinds products and cuts, a different sequence of actions is provided for when trying on products, it is possible to distinguish general recommendations for their implementation.

In the case of the manufacture of products with one fitting, it is necessary to especially accurately and carefully carry out cutting, fitting and correctly perform the refined grinding.

Before cutting, the fabric is ironed, and if necessary, it is decanted (moistened or moistened and dried).

The product is cut out according to the made templates of the details of this model and without them, directly building the details on the fabric. At the same time, the direction of the warp threads, the direction of the pile, the condition for matching the pattern and, if necessary, symmetry are strictly observed.

To the contours of the sections of the parts when they are cut, allowances are given in width and length for clarification (along the cuts of the back, side seams, neck, armhole, bottom). Table 11.1 shows the allowances for clothing details to clarify models when trying on the customer's figure.

Table 11.1 - Stocks for clarifying clothing models on the figure of the customer