The bodice with side darts is very popular with craftswomen due to the simplicity of modeling and sewing the product. This method of modeling can be successfully applied where complex shapes are not needed, because due to the minimum of seams on the bodice, you can very advantageously show, for example, the original print or the texture of the fabric. This design option can be used when sewing dresses, blouses, shirts.

Advice! Before you start modeling, draw and determine the angle of inclination of the side dart. It can be positioned at different angles relative to the top of the bust dart, depending on the model.

Modeling a dress pattern with side darts

To model the darts, use what we hope you already have in your arsenal. If you do not have a basic dress pattern and you are not yet ready to build it yourself, we suggest you. Choose the one that best suits your measurements from five life-size sizes.

From the bottom point of the armhole, set aside 5-6 cm on the side (the value is not constant and may vary depending on the model of the product). On the pattern, mark the point C. G. (center of the chest) and lengthen the bust dart by connecting the extreme points of the dart with the center point of the chest (new top of the bust dart). From point 5-6, draw a segment to the top of the chest dart (Ts.G. - center of the chest). Cut the pattern along the modeling line. Close the bust dart, shorten the opened side dart by 2 cm (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Modeling a dress pattern with a side dart

IMPORTANT! When transferring the bust dart to the side line, it is possible not to shift the top of the dart to the Center of the bust point, in this case the modeling will look like in fig. 2 and 3.

From the bottom point of the bodice armhole, lay down 3-5 cm (the value is not constant and may vary depending on the model of the product). Connect point 3-5 to the center point of the chest and make an incision from the side to the point C. G.

Rice. 2. Transfer of the dart to the side line

Next, cut the breast dart on one side and close. To do this, it is necessary to cut the pattern along one of the sides of the breast dart to the Ts.G. point and, aligning the sides of the dart, glue it. The side dart opens automatically to the desired depth.

Then, shorten the opened bust dart by 1.5-2 cm so that its top is displaced to the left of the Center of the chest.

What is it for? A slightly shortened dart will smoothly follow the contours of the chest and will not create sharp corners.

The finished bodice pattern is shown in fig. 2b. The bodice is cut with a fold along the line of the middle of the front.

Rice. 3. Bodice with side dart

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Hello, in this article we will consider one of the methods of constructive modeling - changing the volumetric shape of the basic design of a dress by modeling a bust dart and a shoulder dart of the back.

Some models of shoulder garments are more voluminous in comparison with the basic design of the dress. One way to get this shape from a basic design is through structural modeling. With an increase in volume, the nature of the supporting surfaces changes - the gap between the figure and the clothes along the chest line increases, which leads to a greater detachment of the side sections of the back and front from the surface of the figure. In other words, the curvature of the surface is reduced in the front at the level of the chest line and on the back in the region of the shoulder blades, and the product is obtained flatter, not emphasizing the chest.

Structurally, such a model shape is achieved by reducing the solutions of the upper dart of the front and shoulder dart of the back, up to their complete elimination by modeling the basic darts.
Under by modeling a dart they understand the translation of any part of the solution into sections of the product (armhole, neck, bottom line, etc.) in order to lengthen these sections, which makes it possible to obtain a flatter shape that does not emphasize the shape of the body.

I propose to consider how to properly model the darts. To begin with, let's transfer the details of the basic design of the dress to a blank sheet of paper and be sure to mark the control points of the armholes.

As a rule, tackle darts are not used in products of three-dimensional shape (depending on the product model). Therefore, we can simply remove the darts along the waist line on the shelf and back. Depending on the model and style of the product, the solution of the tackle darts along the side sections of both parts is reduced partially or completely, in accordance with this, new side sections are constructed. If there is a notch along the waist line on the midline of the back, then this dart can also be removed and a new middle section of the back can be drawn.

Well, now let's move on to modeling the darts.

Shelf modeling
To perform modeling on the shelf drawing, we will build auxiliary lines to those cuts where it is possible to simulate the part of the breast dart:
in the middle line- the auxiliary line is built from the top of the breast dart to the line of the middle of the shelf at a right angle;
in the line of the armhole- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the breast dart to the armhole line of the shelf 1-2 cm above the control point;
in the bottom line- from the top of the breast dart, a vertical is built to the bottom line of the shelf.

Thus, we can model the bust dart: in the shoulder line, in the middle line, in the armhole line and in the bottom line of the shelf.
Consider several options for modeling a breast dart.

The first way
Cut the part of the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the bottom line.

Let's translate the solution of the chest dart:
in the line of the armhole can be modeled up to 2cm,
in the shoulder line- up to 1cm,
we will simulate the rest in the bottom line shelves.

When translating the dart, the cuts were broken, we will draw a new shoulder line, an armhole line and a bottom line.

And so, we got a shelf without a breast dart.

Since we modeled the dart in the shoulder line by up to 1 cm, the shoulder line was accordingly lengthened by this amount. If the model does not need it, this value is cut off from the end of the shoulder. The bottom line has also lengthened, that is, the shelf has expanded towards the bottom line. If such an extension along the bottom line is not desirable, then half or 2/3 of this extension can be removed from the side line.

Second way
This method is used if the product has a V-shaped neckline or a jacket-style collar.
We cut the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the middle line.

Now you need to rotate the upper central part around the incision point on the midline so that the center of the chest drops by 0.5-1cm. The rest of the dart can be modeled into the armhole line, but the allowable size is up to 2 cm.

We draw a new cut of the armhole, and a neckline or collar is built along the middle line, in accordance with the model of the product. And again we got a shelf without a breast dart.

The third way(modeling in the middle line)
If the shelf is not split or has a blind fastener, then you can use this method of modeling a breast dart.
Let's cut the part of the shelf along all the constructed construction lines.

This time, the upper part of the shelf must be lowered parallel to the cut line by up to 1 cm. In the line of the armhole we translate the solution of the chest dart up to 2 cm, the rest - in the bottom line.

Having lowered the upper part of the shelf by up to 1 cm, we shortened the line of the middle of the shelf by this amount. Therefore, it is necessary to lengthen the front by the amount of contraction of the shelf along the chest line. Then draw a new armhole line and a bottom line.

The expansion of the shelf along the bottom line can also be reduced by removing half or 2/3 of this expansion from the side cut.

Back modeling
To simulate the shoulder dart on the convexity of the shoulder blades, we also need to build auxiliary lines to the cuts of the back:
to the armhole line- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the shoulder groove to the middle of the armhole section from the control point to the end shoulder point;
to the bottom line- the cut line is drawn first horizontally from the control point of the armhole to a length of 1.5-2 cm, and then vertically downward.
Based on this, we can model the shoulder dart of the back in two zones: in the shoulder line and in the armhole line.

We cut the back part along the auxiliary lines and translate the solution of the shoulder dart:
in the shoulder line- by the same amount as on the shelf, in order to maintain the fit (up to 1cm)
in the line of the armhole- we translate the rest of the dart (up to 1-2 cm).
In addition, along the bottom line, it is necessary to perform exactly the same expansion that we got on the shelf.

Let's draw new cuts along the line of the shoulder, armholes and bottom. If on the shelf along the shoulder line the lengthening is cut off, which was obtained after modeling the breast dart, then on the back it is also possible to cut this lengthening from the end of the shoulder. It is also possible to leave the shoulder section of the back longer than the shoulder line of the shelf; in the process of sewing, this difference is laid on the landing of the shoulder of the back.

Thus, we have a back pattern without a shoulder dart.

In products with split back along the line of the middle, another zone is possible into which a part of the shoulder dart can be modeled - this is the middle line of the back. It is permissible to model up to 0.6 cm of the shoulder dart for this section of the back.

In this case, the line of the neck of the back becomes wider by this amount. If, according to the model of the product, the expansion of the neck is not desirable, then the shoulder line from the side of the neck can be lengthened by the amount of expansion of the neck, and cut off the same amount from the end of the shoulder. Next, new cuts of the neck and armholes of the back are built.

Sleeve modeling
When modeling the chest dart and shoulder dart of the back on both parts, the armhole lengthened. Therefore, we need to change the edge of the sleeve. To do this, draw two cut lines on the sleeve pattern. The first line runs perpendicular to the ulnar line from the top of the ulnar dart to the edge of the sleeve.

We construct the second line as follows: measure the length of the ridge from the first line to the line in the middle of the sleeve. We postpone the resulting value along the bend from the middle line towards the front edge of the sleeve. Divide the bottom line of the sleeve in half from the front cut to the middle line.

We connect the resulting points with a straight line, which will be the second line of the cut.

We cut the sleeve along the constructed lines.

Now we move our sleeve along the edge so that the expansion is equal to the size of the modeling of the dart into the armhole of the shelf and back, minus 0.5-1 cm. be careful, the size of the darts modeling on both parts is different, but we subtract 0.5-1 cm from each value. How much to subtract depends on how wide the sleeve you want to get.

We draw up a new line of the ridge with a rise along the middle line by 1-2 cm.

And our sleeve pattern for the new armhole is ready.

When modeling a bust dart, you should know that on a figure with a large chest (size 52+) in products with a set-in sleeve, a good fit cannot be achieved without a bust dart. Therefore, it is better to limit the modeling of the bust dart to size 52.
In conclusion, I will add: the shape of a product without a chest and shoulder dart can be obtained not only by modeling the basic structure, but also by building such a structure immediately, with lengthening the armhole, lengthening the front line and expanding the shoulder line. But more on that in the next publications!

Methods for the development of patterns of different styles by moving the bust darts provide tremendous opportunities for creating a variety of models of women's dresses with their skillful use.

The location of the dart depends on the style, in other words, on the designer's intention, i.e. from you.

Consider the main options for the location of the chest dart. Let's start simple.

One of the main structural elements of women's clothing is a dart, which is necessary to make the product correct, i.e. the desired shape. To a greater extent, this applies to light women's dresses, where the volume of the chest is formed exclusively through breast darts. These darts can be moved on the bodice in any direction, in accordance with the style of the product. : to the middle of the front, to the waistline, to the side seam, to the armhole, to the neckline, to the yoke, to the reliefs, to the drapery, to the undercuts, etc. With the skillful use of this technique, a huge number of different models of women's clothing can be developed.

The main thing- in whatever direction you move the dart, its center should always be directed to the highest point of the chest. In our drawing, it is indicated by the point G7.

Before proceeding with the design, you must copy the drawing of the basis of the dress, more precisely the part of it that you are going to change, onto a sheet of paper.

Let's start simple.

Move the dart to the side line(in the side seam).

To do this, copy the upper part of the shelf from the pattern of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper.

Move the breast dart on the base pattern closer to the armhole line by 3cm and deepen it by 2cm. To do this, from point B7, continuing the shoulder line, set aside 3 cm and set point 3.

Draw a vertical line down from it, extending it by 2 cm below the level of point G7 and set point 2.

From point B9 along the shoulder line we set aside 3 cm, we get point 31.

Rice. 5

Draw a straight line from point 2 through point 31. From point 2 as from the center through point 3 we draw an arc until it intersects with a straight line. The intersection point is denoted by 32. Points P5 and 32 are connected.

Fig. 6

We divide the side line T4P into three equal parts. We denote the upper division point 33 and connect it to point 2.

Rice. 7

We cut the shelf along the marked line and move it apart, while closing the chest dart.

Rice. eight

The dart along the waist line can be moved 3 - 4 cm towards the side line.

Correct the shoulder seam with a straight line.

Is it possible to remove the dart in the model you like? Certainly! Modeling a bust dart is really not difficult at all.

How to properly close the dart without spoiling the pattern, consider the example of a knitted pullover model from.

Pattern:

Light gray jersey gives this loose pullover an asymmetrical bottom a sporty look.

The pullover has a classic bodice with darts that only slightly outline the curve of the chest. The model is loose, made of thin knitted fabric, so you can do without a chest dart. Let's remove the dart right on the pattern.

Step 1

On the shelf from the top of the bust dart, draw a parallel line in relation to the line of the middle of the front.

Step 2

Step 4

Transfer the remaining width of the dart to the bottom line - place the cut until the dart closes completely and

Fix it with tape.

Step 5

In this case, the shoulder length increased by 1 cm, and

The bottom line is 7 cm. If these changes are undesirable,

Then we remove 1 cm from the end of the shoulder seam.

We remove the excess width along the bottom line in the side seam, but no more than half or 2/3 of the size (respectively 3.5 or 4.5 cm).

Taking these changes into account, draw a new line for the side seam and

We cut off the excess.

What are used in the product, read on the website

Now you know how easy and simple it is to remove the bust dart so that the shelf of the model you like turns out to be without a dart.

My teaching activity makes me think, doubt and look for the best ways to explain: how to build this or that node. Not all techniques give the same good results for different types of figures.

And at the same time, there is no point in looking for the most accurate and successful formulation of the question itself is amateurish. I try to explain and show with examples: all techniques are good when you understand the design principle. And at the same time, none is perfect.

Let's take a look at the bust tuck knot constructions in the female basic shoulder constructions.

I have recorded for you a short video tutorial with explanations and an “explanatory note” in the form of this article.

As in different design methods, the solution of the bust tuck is determined.

The complexity of this node is due to the fact that it is not possible to measure the physical indicator on the body in a direct way. Sometimes, in the author's methods, attempts are made to determine it indirectly, but it turns out only approximately and approximately. There are no anchor points!

And I tell the students that the pattern of the base frame is easy: "measured - drawn." In fact. the way it is in all methods, but taking into account the nuances.

If you study more than one or two design techniques, then you will be surprised how similar they are to each other in the basic principles: building a drawing grid and limiting structural areas with verticals and horizontals.

But it is surprising how differently the tuck on the bulge of the breast looks and is calculated. It can be built from the line of the middle of the shelf (EMKO SEV), from the armhole (Zlachevskaya G.M.), but most often there is a variant of the location of the dart from the shoulder cut. The top of the dart is always directed towards the center of the chest (CG, VG, VTG - different names for the same point).

building a basic framework according to Zlachevskaya

building a basic framework according to EMCO CMEA

For example, in the method of G.M. Zlachevskaya uses two measurements of the width of the chest: 1) along the convex part of the chest and 2) above the chest. If you have correctly measured the SHG and SHG control, then the pattern will turn out to be quite accurate.

In the methodology "Mueller and Son" in the algorithm for constructing a breast dart, a formula is used that takes into account the girth of the chest, but does not take into account the fullness of the chest.
1/10 POG (third half-girth of the chest). And often the solution is insufficient. The individual fit has to be adjusted: add 1-2 cm to the calculation formula.

A more complex way and a more accurate construction is described in the EMCO COTSL method. Two measurements of chest girth are involved in the calculations: SG 1 and SG 2.

The depth of the dart is determined by the formula

2 (SG2-SG1) + 2 cm

Yes. the EMCO COTSHL method is more accurate, but it is also more complex. More complex measurements, more reservations, tabular increments and conditions when building nodes.

construction of a dart according to the method of TSOTSHL

construction of a dart according to the method of Müller and son

The technique of the French designer Lin Jacques found fans due to its simplicity of explanation and construction. There are no complicated measures and formulas here. Take the depth of the dart from the plate according to the exhaust gas measurement. Rather, determine approximately in the interval between the indicators of the exhaust gas of your size (here the “run-up” between the measurements is as much as 10 cm).
Literally in the book it is written as follows: “The solution of the breast dart cannot be determined by measuring on the figure or by simple proportional calculation based on q-l measurements. This value is taken on the basis of the exhaust gas.

In addition, the depth of the tuck is adjusted depending on the posture.
If the shoulders are tilted back, and the chest protrudes forward, then the solution is increased by 1-2 cm
if the shoulders are tilted forward, and the width of the chest is small, then the size should be reduced by 1-2 cm "

solution of a breast dart according to the Lin Jacques method

building a basic framework according to Lin Jacques

The English method of Winfred Aldrich solves the problem of finding a solution for a breast tuck very similarly. The solution of the bust dart is determined in a tabular way. The data in the table looks very plausible for standard shapes. In general, this is a very good, solid and uncomplicated technique for beginners. For figures with peculiarities of posture, you should take not standard measurements, but real ones.

building a basic framework according to U. Aldrich

solution of chest darts according to the English method

I will not be able to consider all the variety of the design world in a short article. I touched upon only the most popular methods in the former CIS, translated into Russian.

And for dessert - Chinese design techniques, completely unusual for us.

Practicing designers in China use a small number of dimensional features and calculation-proportional construction.
The constructions are simple. First, a base is built without darts, and only then darts are applied to the base base.
In many Chinese techniques, the principle of a right-angled triangle is used, in which one of the legs is always 15 cm, and the second leg is a floating value X. This value is determined by a calculation method, depending on the construction node.

To determine the value of X when constructing a bust dart:

(OG 3 – OG 5) / 2

Og 3 is the circumference of the bust, recorded at full size. Dimensional sign Og5 measured immediately after measurement Og3 , placing a centimeter tape on the back in the same place, and lowering it in front below, under the base of the mammary glands.

Given the attitude ( 15: X ) , you can build a dart in any area

shelves, directing it to the side, neckline, armhole, shoulder, side or waist cuts.

building a basic framework according to Chinese methods

comparison of the depth of the tuck using different methods with the same physical characteristics.

I hope I was able to interest you with the material. Build yourself! It's not as difficult as it sounds at first. But it's not easy either!

If you can't master the design on your own using books or purchased disks, then come to me at.

I know what is the reason for your failure. I say this with complete confidence. There is only one condition on my courses: work! The way I do, with passion and without laziness.