This article is to help many people who are taking their first steps in sewing Russian folk clothes and, in particular, Russian folk women's shirts with their own hands.

To sew a shirt, you will need about two linear meters of linen fabric, it is highly desirable to be clean and free of impurities. The width of the canvas can be either 1.4 meters, or 1.5 and 1.6 meters - whatever you find.
Sewing machine with a set of threads, good scissors, chalk or pencil, pins.

The fabric looks something like this:

In fact, the cut of the shirt is very simple. Depending on the type (the types were discussed in previous articles), the shirt consists of 5 - 6 basic elements. These are sleeves, a hem, two gussets, an oblique trim and, sometimes, an overlay for the neckline.

First, you need to prepare the fabric, steam it or iron it out so that there are no folds and it is convenient to work with it.

Depending on the size of the shirt 44-46-48-50-52, it is necessary to cut, respectively, from 44 to 52 centimeters of fabric from the edge. This will be a blank for the sleeves (shirt top).

If you are sewing for yourself, or it is possible to take a measurement, then simply measure the distance from the shoulder to the center of the chest and multiply by two. Remember to leave 2 centimeters for the seams.
Alternatively, measure from the center of the bust to the desired length and add 4 centimeters to the hem from the hem.

Overlock or fine zigzag the edges of the fabric.

The main elements of the shirt are ready.

From the remnants of the fabric, it is necessary to cut two gussets (approximately 8 by 8 centimeters, if the size is more than 48 size or large breasts, then 10 by 10 centimeters or 12 by 12 centimeters). It is also necessary to process the edges of the fabric.

Fold the top of the shirt (sleeves) first across, then along the length, aligning the edges. Next, on the fold, you need to draw a neckline - about 10 centimeters wide and 4-6 centimeters down, depending on the size of the neckline that is needed.

A little higher, it is necessary to draw another line in parallel (the neck at the back) and cut it out first.

Important! The cut piece of fabric cannot be simply thrown away. This piece must be dragged inside the shirt. Yes, this is just a manipulation of a piece of cut tissue - pull out the cut piece from the bottom. But this is how we observe the traditions of our ancestors, and the ancestors believed that the law of protection was observed in this way to preserve the strength of the future owner.

This is the result.

We cut out an oblique inlay. To do this, we measure the length of the neck with a meter (about 50-60 centimeters), then draw a line on the remains of the fabric (corresponding to the length of the neck) at an angle of 45 degrees and a width of 4-5 centimeters and cut it out. There is no need to process the edges.

If you want to make a slit in the neck for convenience, then a piece of fabric 10 by 8 centimeters wide is cut out, its edges are processed. A piece is pinned to the front of the neck, a straight line is drawn with a pencil or chalk, and this line is sheathed around with an indent of 1 centimeter on three sides.

We turn the sewn-on fabric inside out, pin it with pins and stitch it, trying to get “into the channel” and breaking off the pins along the way.

Stitching with front side, once! If you do not get "in the mainstream", then we sew neatly along the fabric, as in the photo.

The bias inlay should be, preferably in a contrasting color and made by hand.

But, for those who do not want to bother, it is not necessary to make it yourself. You can buy ready-made in the store.

You can decorate the top of the shirt as your heart desires! By tradition, it is desirable to embroider by hand, with special protective patterns and ornaments.

If you don’t want to follow the traditions, you can decorate with machine embroidery, jacquard braid or lace!

With braid - first we pin it, and then we sew it evenly!

At the same time, you can sew the braid on the sleeves, if you wish ...

The results of applying "embellishments" in different options can be like this:

Sew on the bias tape. To do this, we put it on the front side of the shirt, leaving 2 centimeters. We sew it tightly so that it keeps the shape of the collar.

After being sewn, we fold it inward twice to hide the raw edge. We pin and sew again from the front side, trying to get into the channel or along the edge of the fabric.

We process the bottom, that is, the hem of the shirt. You can immediately decorate it if you wish.

Bend in width and sew on the side. Almost reaching the top, we apply a gusset to the inner side, pin it with pins (fix it) and sew first one side, then the other.

We remind you that the hem is a single piece of fabric, 1.5 meters wide. Interrupted and sewn on one side. But, you can sew a hem from two halves, if you do not have a single piece of fabric, but there are two, albeit small, but of a suitable size. If the tradition is not respected, it does not matter. We also remind you that, according to tradition, protective embroidery is necessarily applied to the seams and edges of clothing.

On the other hand, we make an incision down to a gusset length of about 10 centimeters. We also pin the gusset and sew first from one edge, then from the other.

Traditionally, red gussets are considered protective.

In ancient times, craftswomen sewed everything by hand. Now we have faithful helpers - sewing machines.
They simplify the work, make it easy and fast.

We set the stitch width 4 mm on a typewriter and go through the top edge of the dress without going into the gussets, separately in front and behind. You can use two lines: one under the other - for a more comfortable tie.

We begin to tighten. Pull both strings at the same time. We tighten and periodically apply to ourselves, so that the gussets are clearly under the armpits, the back is pulled together a little more.

After tightening, distribute the folds evenly and mark with pins the middle at the back and front, also mark the middle on the top of the shirt.

An alternative to dressing is all the same irreplaceable pins.

Sew on! Now all that remains is to process the sleeves and remove the strings.

Congratulations! Your shirt is ready!

These are the results of your work:

For such detailed material and the photos provided, we thank the group = Revival of native traditions = Voronezh = in social network VKONTAKTE and the craftswoman Natalia Kolesnikova!

If you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments to this article, or to the administration of the "Russian Ornaments and Patterns" group on the VKONTAKTE social network.

A long, spacious Russian folk shirt is one of the main elements of the men's wardrobe of the ancient Slavs. By visiting our site, you can choose and order such an outfit in the online store "Russian folk costumes" for a holiday, dance show, theatrical performance, wedding or any other event dedicated to the traditions of our ancestors.

Tunic-like shirts were previously worn by all Slavic men, regardless of age and status. The only difference was in the materials from which such clothes were sewn, and decorative elements. There were also special holiday models. In ancient times, a Russian blouse was considered a classic outfit, which was tied at the waist with a thin belt.

Buy shirts in Russian folk style

On our site you can buy shirts in Russian folk style by choosing a product for the appropriate purpose (everyday or festive model) and colors. If you are unable to find suitable ready-made models, we will offer you to order an individual production of clothes.

All of our National costumes are distinguished not only by the excellent quality of tailoring, but also by their historical authenticity. For the production of outfits, we use traditional Slavic materials, classic cut, embroidery and ornament.

Our ancestors were wise people and they had everything simple in honor, and in their series Russian folk shirt , which is sewn using simple techniques and a simple cut.

The details of the cut of the Russian shirt are given already with allowances for seams of 1 cm. Ethnographic sample.

For the shirt, I bought 4.5 meters of chintz 80 cm wide. The length of the shirt is determined by the height. For the height of 164 I took 110 cm. Fold the chintz in half lengthwise. Attach a right angle to the fold and shallow the bottom of the shirt. Measure 110 cm from the bottom, apply a straight edge to the cut, shallow and cut. Also measure out another piece of the same size. Cut off edges. The shirt frame is ready in two parts.

Sleeves. The width of the sleeve from the fold is 36 cm, length is 50 cm. Cut out two parts.

Cut details. Gusset - 12 x 12 cm square, two parts. For convenient work, you need to mark the middle of the front and back and the middle of the sleeves, I make cuts of 3-5 mm.

Assembling the product. On the corner of the sleeve and the upper corner of the bed, put a point with a pencil, at a distance of 1 cm from the cuts. Align the points and pin them with a pin. Connect the vertical line of the armhole of the sleeve with the upper cut of the bed.

Start sewing from the cuts along the sleeve, smoothly bringing the seam to a distance of 1 cm from the cut. Having reached the corner point, leave the needle in the fabric, make a diagonal cut before reaching the needle 1-2 mm, unfold the vertical part of the armhole of the sleeve and stitch the parts without cleaving, not reaching the end of 1 cm.

Attach the gusset to the bottom of the sleeve and pin to the bed. Write the line, moving from the sleeve and finish without reaching 1 cm to the end.

Unfold the sleeve, attach the gusset to the bottom of the sleeve and give a line, starting 1 cm away from the cut and not reaching again 1 cm, the photo shows the distance between the pins.

The next step is to attach the gusset to the other part of the sleeve, pin and sew (from pin to pin), starting again and not reaching the end of 1 cm.

Attach the gusset to the back frame and sew again without reaching 1 cm. The gusset part turned out with free allowances.

Now chop off the seams of the sleeves and side seams frame and sew from the gusset to the bottom of the sleeve and shirt. Neaten gusset seams and then side and sleeve allowances.

Lay two stitches along the collar, the first at a distance of 5 mm from the cut, the second at the width of the foot. There is no difference in front or back, they cut it the same way.

Pull off the assembly. For better distribution of the assembly, I fixed the middle of the back, the shelves and the top of the sleeves with pins on the dummy. If there is no mannequin, you can put on any person passing by in a T-shirt (mom, daughter) and pin the collar directly to the T-shirt. The depth of the neckline is adjustable by the assembly. At the back, you need to make the neck higher, so tighten the line tighter.

Cut strips diagonally 6 cm wide, pull out under the iron. Attach from the front side of the shirt with the upper cut to the first line and pin it slightly tightening, it is more convenient to do this on a mannequin.

Finish with an overlap.

Stitch at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the bias tape. Cut off the "fringe" so that there is a margin of 3-4 mm from the stitching line of the inlay. Secure the fold of the tape with a pin.

Fold in the edge and baste the inlay with seamy side so that it overlaps the stitching line.

On the front side, the swept seam lies under the bias tape. Make sure that the width of the inlay remains the same 4-5 mm everywhere.

Stitch from the front side, stitching under the bias tape. After completion, check the quality from the inside out, sometimes the edge of the bias inlay does not hit the line. Take out the stitch that was used for assembly.

Hem the bottom, fold it by 1 cm and again by 1 cm. Also the sleeve. At a distance of 3 cm from the bottom of the sleeve, I gave 2 lines with a rubber thread.

Russian folk shirt ready. It remains to sew a sundress or ponevu, twist or weave a belt and you can go into a dance dress.

Russian shirts to your collection, dear needlewomen!

After walking around the Internet, I noted with regret that if there is a pattern for a traditional Slavic shirt, then I could not find a clear description of its tailoring. Therefore, in order to fill such, as it seems to me, an important gap in information, I post a pattern for a folk shirt and tell you how to sew a men's shirt.

Men's traditional shirts were usually tunic-like. They were sewn from a cloth folded in half - so the back and front were immediately formed. A round hole was made in the middle for the head and a small incision in the middle of the front. Long sleeves tapering to the wrist were sewn to the upper part of the cloth folded in half. From the sides, two pieces of canvas-barrels were sewn into the waist of the shirt - they could be straight or oblique.

Between the sleeves and the barrels under the arm, rhombic or square pieces of fabric were inserted - gussets, which were sometimes made of a different fabric and a different color. The gussets provided freedom of movement. And it was also easy to replace them with new ones in case of wear. On the seamy side of the men's shirt, a background was hemmed in its upper part. - the second layer of fabric, which protected from evaporation and extended the period of wearing the shirt.

Everyday shirts were not decorated, festive ones had embroidery along the hem, bottom of the sleeves, and the collar. The men's shirt was worn for graduation and was necessarily belted.

Materials that we need:

1. Linen fabric 2 m with a width of 150 cm.
2. Floss threads, if embroidery is provided for 3-4 skeins
3. Sewing threads to match the fabric
4. Button

Manufacturing technology:

1. Cut out the details, taking into account the share thread:

Central panel - 1 piece with a fold along the weft

side wedges - 2 parts,

gussets - 2 parts,

sleeves - 2 parts (before opening it is better to take a measurement again: from the edge of the shoulder and down to the beginning of the thumb on the hand.)

1. Treat the incision at the neck with a tape.
2. Treat the neck of the shirt with a tape or arrange a small stand-up collar.
3. Sew the details of the sleeves to the shirt, aligning the middle of the sides of the central panel of the shirt and the middle of the upper cuts of the sleeves.
4. On the details of the side wedges in the upper part in the center, make a 10 cm cut (according to the size of the gusset), then stitch the side wedges to the back and the front of the shirt, connect the upper sections of the side wedges with the details of the sleeves.
5. Sew in gussets (two sides of the gusset are connected to the cuts in the side wedges, the other two - with the cuts of the sleeves).
6. Stitch the seams of the sleeves, process the bottom of the sleeves with a "hem with a closed cut" seam.
7. Seam the bottom of the shirt with a "hem with a closed cut" seam.
8. On the neck, arrange a fastener from a thread loop and buttons

Comply with the WTO ( wet heat treatment) seams at each stage.

But in folk costume shirts have survived to this day.

Women's shirt of the Vologda region



There are many pictures on this topic in my album:
"Folk costume"

Very well described and given a cut of the construction in the Club "Season" from one of the formuchanok Burlakova Frosya in the topic "Sapozhkovskie shirts"

There is a lot of information on folk costume on the Internet, so I won't copy much information from the Internet, but I'll just post links and a small selection of information:

Originals 19 in:

Shirts in folk style.

wedding folk shirt female-cut

types of finishing of sleeves of women's shirts

women's shirts in folk costume

Originals:

Folk costume in the pictures

Type and cut of women's shirts in the folk Slavic style:

Shirts from the ensemble Date: 19th century Culture: Russian

Embroidered shirt folk costume

Women's shirt Romania embroidered in folk style late 19th century:

Cut a women's shirt

/ Site "Folk historical costume" /

The Old Believers of the Altai Territory have a common sarafan complex: a sundress, a shirt, an apron. The cuts of all parts of the costume of the "Kerzhaks" and the "Poles" are similar, however, there are differences in the decoration of various parts of the costume - the decor.

Old Russian shirts were straight cut, tunic-shaped and cut from a cloth folded in half.
The sleeves were made narrow and long. The settlers-Old Believers of the Altai Territory used a later version of the shirt - polyk (the front and back of the shirt are connected using fabric inserts - polik).
The shirt is divided into the upper part - the sleeves, the cap and the lower part - the waist, the stanushka (see Fig. 1). Sometimes, at the junction of the sleeves and the camp, a kumach was placed, which served as a talisman for the most vulnerable place - the abdomen. A characteristic feature of all polik shirts is the assembly of the collar into small folds - bobbins.
The most ancient shirts made of homespun canvas were made with kumach poliks, there was a lot of embroidery on the sleeves (painting technique), poliks were embroidered with a very small white cross - "klopiks". Sleeves in such shirts - "coolies", were cut from two pieces of canvas, without gussets. Sleeves, collars and bottom of the shirt were trimmed with kumach, which also served as a talisman. Later shirts were made from purchased material (cashmere, burs, kanfa, satin, chintz, calico, etc.). These shirts have been preserved in museum collections.
The cut of sleeves in the Altai suit is very diverse. Since the "Kerzhaks" and "Poles" exerted a mutual influence on each other, it is impossible to clearly define which of the cuts was typical for these or those immigrants. One can only note the development of the cut of the sleeve from the early one - "kulem" to the later - "cut" sleeve.
Measurements:
Neck Volume,
Arm length - from neck to wrist,
Brush Volume - measured with a bent thumb.
Open your shirts.
Fabric consumption for "sleeves" 2.5m with a width of 70-80cm. Let us introduce the coefficient A of the shrinkage of the fabric on the "burs" (depends on the density of the fabric). For example, if the fabric is dense, then A = 5, if thin silk, then A = 7. R is the length of the floor, P / A is the length of the floor after the set of bars. ОШ-2 * (Р / А) = 2В - the length of the front and back after a set of bobbins. THEN. for two attachments, the consumption of fabric is 2 * B * A (for the front as much as for the back). The sizes of the policeware for adults 40x18-20cm, for a teenager 30-35x18cm. The size of the gusset is 10x10cm, for wide sleeves 15x15cm. Collar length ОШ + 2cm for seams. The width of the Kerzhak collar is 10-12cm (the stand is 5-6cm), for the Pole - 3-4cm (the stand is 1.5-2cm). The collar is cut in a straight line (along the lobe or transverse).
Open the sleeves.
The earliest cut of the sleeve contained only rectangular parts, for example, the sleeve of a "kul" linen "Pole" shirt (see Fig. 2a), consisting of two rectangular panels. The width of the linen cloth is 40 cm, so the seams of the sleeves were aligned with the seams of the polics.

The second type of "kul" (see Fig. 2b) also consists of two large panels - 45 cm wide and small - 15 cm wide. The length of the small panel is 15 cm less than the length of the large panel. The sleeve width is 30cm. Sewing sequence: A large piece of fabric is superimposed on a small one, topstitch. Bend the corner of the large panel and sew it under the large and small panels. Bottom seam - a small panel is adjusted to a large one, the seam looks towards the back. Cloths are adjusted to the gusset. We get a narrow sleeve, almost without gathers (if necessary, bows on the upper fold of the sleeve), decor - two strips of braid or finishing fabric.
The third type of "kul" is with a wedge (see Fig. 2c). The corner is cut from a small panel, possibly trapezoidal.

Sewing sequence

Sew a large cloth onto a small one. Hem the wedge under the large and small panel, bend the corner of the large panel and sew it under the wedge and the small panel. The finish is similar to the previous version, perhaps the end of the sleeve is trimmed with a bindweed or lace.
The last type of "kul" with a wedge - the corner is cut from a large panel (see Fig. 2d). The sleeve has the appearance of conventional gathering sleeves, finishing with a cuff is possible.

Consider a "half-slanted" sleeve (see Fig. 3), it was used in late-cut shirts. Two types of this sleeve are characterized by a pleat-free finish. The bottom of the sleeve was embroidered or trimmed with patterned fabric. Red kumachy poliki.
Consider the "cut" sleeve (see Fig. 4), it was used in the "Polish" shirts of a late cut. If the wedges are wide, then it is possible to make a sleeve without gussets. For two types of such sleeves, the sleeve is trimmed with a cuff, bow folds or dolls.

The sleeve could be just round, that is, cut like a rectangle with a length equal to the Length of the Arm without 18-20cm, 60cm wide (possibly from strips 40 and 20cm wide). Cuff trim with two stripes of webbing or fabric trim.

Shirt sewing sequence

1. Sew the strips on the attachment.
2. Sew the sleeve.
3. Sew the prefix with polishes onto the finished sleeve.
4. Complete the decor of the polishes.
5. Mark the middle of the attachment with a 1cm cut down. Mark around the perimeter lines for hogs ("Kerzhatsk" 5-12 pieces, "Poles" 2-3 pieces) at a distance of 5 mm for silk, 7-10 mm for more rough tissue... Collect the burs at the neck (with an oblique stitch for the "Kerzhatsk", on a straight thread for the "Poles"). Fasten the burs by the size ОШ + 2cm.
6. Make an incision in front of 10-12 cm. Process.
7. Sew sleeves and attachment on the gusset.
8. Tie-off side seams and sleeves.
9. Sew the machine to the finished sleeves (shirt top).

Finishing of the "Kerzhak" shirt

The shirt is plain. Burs up to 12 strings. Embroidery on burs (see Fig. 5c), behind a thin strip of embroidery at the bottom of the burs. Polikas can be embroidered or sewn with braid (ribbon). Collar - high stand (5-8 cm). Sewn with a seam "in the lock". The collar folds back in half. Can be chamfered.
The seams on the shirt were stitched off by hand with small dotted lines of three (see Fig. 5a), with contrasting threads. If the seam is double, then the finish is "vestibule" (see Fig. 5b). Round sleeves were gathered in folds in groups.

Finishing the "Polish" shirt

The shirt can be variegated and monochromatic with contrasting polishes. Burs for 2-3 strings. There is no bora embroidery. Collar 1.52cm, trimmed with embroidery, bindweed or white lace. In front, the incision is processed with a "lock" seam, in a later version - with a strap, decorated with a bindweed, braid.
Poliki can be embroidered (on a plain fabric) or a ribbon is sewn on, decorated with a bindweed, buttons. The ends of the sleeves are finished with pupae (teeth). Sleeve cuffs can be treated with a cover.