* As a result of payment, a file with a pattern is automatically sent to the email address you specified. If the file has not arrived within 30 minutes, then you need to send pattern search request. You don't need to pay again!

Patterns are given without seam allowances.

cutting

Before cutting, the fabric must be decanted.

From main fabric

- front half - 2 children.

- back half - 2 children.

- belt loops (cut out independently in the form of rectangles 5x7 cm) - 5 children.

- fastener facing (marked on the front half of the trousers) - 1 child.

From lining fabric:

- slope (cut out independently in the form of a rectangle 18x10cm) - 1 child.

- back pocket burlap - 2 children.

- front pocket burlap - 2 children.

- fastener facing - 1 child.

- front pocket leaflet - 2 children.

- leaflet of the back pocket - 2 children.

Seam allowances: 1.5 cm on the cuts, 4 cm on the bottom hem.

Tailoring Description

Duplicate the details with interlining.

1. Frame pockets on the front halves of the trousers. We recommend studying this technology in more detail here:

If you are sewing a framed pocket for the first time, then first practice on a flap of a similar fabric - this way you will avoid annoying mistakes when sewing trousers.

2. Sew darts on the back halves.

3. Frame the pockets on the back halves.

4. Fold the front halves of the trousers with the back halves face to face and complete the side and crotch seams. Finish the seam allowances on an overlocker or on a sewing machine with an overlock stitch. Iron out.

5. On the front half, put a mark at a distance of 1 cm from the bottom edge of the markup. Stitch the middle seam from this mark to the crotch seam.

6. Fold the facing and the front left half right sides inward and stitch from the top cut to the mark. Turn the facing to the wrong side, iron and stitch at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge.

7. On the second half, make a notch at the mark (see point 5), unscrew the fastener allowance on the wrong side, not reaching 0.7 cm to the edge. Iron on.
Place the zipper under the right edge of the front half and sew close to the teeth. Close the clasp.
Sew the left side of the zipper to the facing. The seam should not touch the front half. Sew the left edge from the front side according to the markup, capturing the facing.
Fold the slope in half lengthwise, iron and finish with an overcast seam. Pin and sew the hem under the right edge of the zipper opening, sewing through the seam of the zipper.

8. Decorate the belt loops. Baste them to the top cut of the trousers.

9. Sew the middle seam, insert the legs one into the other with the right side inward.

10. Sew on the belt. Tuck and stitch the loose ends of the loops.

11. On the left half of the belt, make a loop, on the right - sew a button. Sew on trouser hooks.

12. Hem the lower section of the trousers using trouser tape.

According to this pattern, sewn (thanks for the photo to the guests of the site!):

The pattern for the site "Casket" was prepared by Victoria Ivanova.

Patterns of men's trousers and a description of tailoring

Pattern of men's classic trousers

Men's regular fit trousers

Pants technical drawing

This option is well suited for both office work and everyday wear. It all depends on which fabric you choose. Material consumption shown is for sizes 48, 50, 52 and 54. Side seam length from waistline: 112.5 (114-115.5-117) cm

What will be required:

• 1.75 (1.80-1.85-1.90) m gabardine width. 150 cm
• 35 cm (size 48/50), 40 cm (size 52/54) matching viscose lining, wt. - 140 cm
• 55 cm of cotton linen (lining) in tone, width. - 140 cm
• 15 cm spacer. adhesive material width. 140 cm
• 1.30 m bias tape to match
• 1 zipper per tone - 11cm
• 2 buttons 15 mm in diameter.

Pattern details of men's trousers

Plan for gluing pattern sheets

Copy patterns of details. Draw parts E, F in the form of rectangles. For lining, use the pattern of part 12, connected to part B, up to the marking line (approximately the knee line).

• BACK HALF OF PANTS 11+11A
• FRONT HALF OF PANTS 12+12A
• REVEAL RIGHT SIDE OF CASTLE 13
• BELT 14
• BARREL + POCKET LINING 15
• BACK POCKET LINING 16 = CUT DOWN TO CUT UP TO COMBINE THE FOLD OF THE TRAFFIC WITH THE BOTTOM LINE
• TURNING THE LEFT SIDE OF THE FASTENER A = COPY FROM THE PATTERN DETAILS 12
• BARREL FRONT HALF OF PANTS B = COPY FROM PATTERN DETAILS 15
• FRONT POCKET STITCH WITH = COPY FROM PATTERN DETAILS 15
• BACK POCKET VISIBILITY D = COPY DETAILS FROM LEGAL 16
• LEAF BACK POCKET E = 13X5 CM
• LOOP F = 57X2 CM

Layout plan

Fabric layout plan

Lay out the detail patterns on the fabric folded into a fold. Parts 13, A and F spread out in a spread, see diagrams. On a folded cotton canvas, lay out the indicated patterns. Detail 13 lay out on the canvas in a turn. On the folded viscose lining, lay out the pattern of part 12 (in the transverse direction), as shown in the diagram, aligning the lower cut of the part with the edge. Lay out parts 14 and E on the folded cushioning material. Cut out the parts with allowances of 1 cm. Add 5 cm to the bottom hem.

How to sew men's trousers

Duplicate with adhesive pad. material specified parts.

Process the darts on the back halves of the trousers.

On each back half of the trousers, make a welt pocket with a leaflet with set-in ends: pin the inside out according to the markings of the pocket. side down back pocket lining. Iron the leaf along the wrong side. side inward. Stitch it according to the markup to the main part (front sides), directing the leaf with the fold down. Stitch on the opposite side of the pocket marking the face valance. side down so that between the lines there is a gap equal to the width of the leaflet already in finished form. Cut the main detail and the lining with diagonal notches to the ends of the lines, bend the leaf up, the gap is inside out. side. Sew the edges of the leaves in a zigzag stitch onto the pocket lining. Bend back the lining, laying it over the valance. Straighten the valance and stitch, following the markup, its lower cut onto the pocket lining in a zigzag pattern. Attach the lining to the stitching seam of the valance. Secure the ends of the pocket by sewing along the base of the seam allowances. Sew the edges of the pocket lining. Baste the back pocket lining. Perform bartacks at the ends of the pockets from the faces. sides of the main part.

Finish the front pockets: first zigzag and then straight-stitch the barrel (positioning it wrong side down) on the faces. side of barrel/lining. Sew the facing of the front pocket on the barrel/pocket lining in the same way. Sew along the pocket as described in the Sewing Handbook, sewing over the edge, by hand, with fine stitches.

Baste the front halves of the trousers onto the lining of the front halves of the trousers so that the lining does not tighten the main parts. Overcast the cuts of the main part, connecting the overcasting stitches together with the lining.

Sew the side and step sections of the trousers. Iron the seams.

Fold the halves of the trousers of the faces. sides inward, align their upper sections, step seams and, stepping back about 8 cm from these sections, sew the middle sections to the fastener.

Fold the slope and slope lining and overstitch the outer edges. Trim the allowances to 5 mm. on the front halves. trousers, sew a fastener with undercut facing on the male side.

Work six loops. Baste the belt loops, placing them outside. sides down, on the top cut of the product. Sew the belt loops, sewing seams 2 cm from the top edge.

Trim, adding 1 cm for the allowance, the left side of the belt at the front cut along the markup. Turn over the longitudinal inner sections of each part of the belt with an oblique trim. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and overstitch the ends. Trim the seam allowances of turning to 5 mm, turn the parts of the belt right side out. side, straighten the ends and iron the parts along the middle.

Men's pants size chart #1

Download patterns of men's trousers No. 1 (sizes 48 - 54):

Stitch the parts of the belt from the faces. sides of trouser halves. Iron the seams on the belt. Sew the middle sections of the trousers (in the open area) and the back middles. sections of the belt. Iron the seam to a length of approximately 15-20 cm. Sew the lengthwise edged edge of the inner side of the waistband into the sewing seam.

Bend the cross sections of the belt loops inward and sew the folds to the top edge of the belt.

Iron the hem of the trousers inside out. side and sew with blind stitches.

Baste the buttonholes on the markings on the slope and on the left end of the belt. Sew on the buttons according to the buttonholes.

Pattern of men's casual trousers

Pattern of men's trousers No. 2

This model is very similar to the previous one. The pattern in the document is located in a horizontal view, it is recommended to select the “Poster” function when printing and set the scale to 100% (see screenshot below).

• main fabric for trousers;
• cotton fabric on burlap pockets;
• 1 m of lining fabric;
• lightning;
• 1 button - 1.5 cm in diameter and a metal hook.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of the garment. To find out the fabric consumption, print the pattern and lay out its details along the width of the main fabric.

Tailoring of trousers is identical to tailoring of the first model.

Size Chart for Trousers #2

Download patterns of men's trousers No. 2 (sizes S - XL):

Pattern of sports trousers for men

Step-by-step instructions on how to sew men's sports pants according to a finished pattern with your own hands

Description of the pants pattern

Electronic ready-made pattern of sports trousers for men in sizes from 42 to 56.

Sizes: 42-56 (buyer receives all sizes).

File format: PDF, the pattern is made in full size and there are no seams without allowances.

Price: 2 $ (payment in the currency of the buyer's country)

The level of difficulty in sewing these sweatpants is simple. Pattern for beginners. Tailoring of trousers without pockets is provided.

What is included in the trouser pattern kit

The set of patterns for sports trousers includes (Fig. 1):

• pattern PP-ZP (the side line is marked and the pattern can be cut along it before cutting);
• patterns of large pocket details (burlap reaches the seam of the bow);
• patterns of pocket details of the usual size.

The belt pattern is not included with the kit, as the belt is a strip of fabric. Further in the description, read how to cut it.

Only knitted stretch fabrics can be used for sewing these trousers. Footer and fleece can be considered the most suitable, but thinner ones can also be chosen.

Fabric consumption with a width of 150 cm will be from 120 to 150 cm, depending on the size and length of the trousers.

The consumption of a footer with a width of 180 cm will be 110 - 120 cm, depending on the size.

How to download the pattern and print

How to cut these men's sweatpants for different sizes

Before opening the trousers of this model, it is very important to determine their final length.

At the same time, it is important to consider whether your bottom will be processed into a hem or on a drawstring, for which an overlap is needed - an overlap in trousers with a drawstring allows the knees to stretch less.

When measuring the length of the finished trousers, write down if the belt is included in the length or if the length is measured without the belt.

Of course, you can simply make it longer and cut off the excess length at the fitting.

If there is a need to sew trousers with piping along the side seam or unmodel the combined style, then the pattern can be cut along the side line, but in other cases, this is not necessary.

In the kit you see patterns of four pockets - two "cut-off barrels" and two patch pockets.

"Cutting barrel". For those who like to carry smartphones, keys, a wallet and hands in their pockets, we choose the details of a large pocket. For the rest - the usual.

We cut out the valance burlap from the same fabric as the trousers. For example, from the footer. Burlap facing can be cut out both from the main fabric and from thinner knitwear.

We cut out patch pockets from the main fabric and these are the only parts that require seam allowances, we cut out the rest of the parts without allowances.

So, for patch pockets, the allowances are as follows: along the line of entry into the pocket - 2.5 cm, along the remaining sections - 1.5 cm.

The cutting of this model of sports trousers is simplified by the absence of a side seam (Fig. 2 - 4). The lobar runs along the lateral line, in other words, the lateral line should be parallel to the edge.

The "barrel" along the line of entry into the pocket can be cut off immediately. The fractional burlap of the valance should be close to the fractional PP-ZP, and the burlap-turning can be laid as it will.

Belt - a strip cut along the lobar or along the transverse thread.

The dimensions of the belt in the cutting are as follows:

Belt length = waist cut length according to the pattern of trousers

Waistband width = two finished widths + 2cm

Cutting small sizes with a fabric width of 150 cm is shown in fig. 2. There are no difficulties here - the fabric is folded in half, the edges are combined.

Cutting large sizes with a fabric width of 150 cm is shown in fig. 3. If, when cutting to the width of the fabric, the PP-ZP part does not pass, then we cut off the non-fitting fragment from the pattern and lay it below, adding an allowance of 1 - 1.5 cm along the cut line.

After cutting the “wedge” cut off from the pattern, we glue it back butt with adhesive tape.

Please note that after attaching this “wedge” and carefully ironing the seam, it is imperative to base the PP-ZP part, that is, check its shape with the pattern.

And for cutting patch pockets on the RFP, you need to deploy a lunge.

The same little “trick” with cutting patch pockets can also come in handy when cutting large sizes on a footer 180 cm wide.

Do not forget to cut off the “barrel” of the PP along the pocket entry line.

We finish cutting by marking the line of entry into the pocket on the “burlap-valance” detail. The markup must be done by thread.

How to sew men's sports trousers with your own hands

As mentioned above, for sewing you will need a modern household overlock and a household sewing machine to make a knitted seam and a narrow zigzag.

Please note that overcasting, which is often used when sewing cheap knitwear, is NOT SUITABLE for sewing sports trousers. I'm sure you've already seen many of these.

We start sewing by turning the entrance to the pocket. We apply burlap-turning to the PP face to face and connect the parts along the entry line with a narrow zigzag. We cut the allowances of the resulting seam and bend it towards the burlap-turning and fasten them with another line of a narrow zigzag. After that, we iron the seam of the entrance to the pocket, trying so that the seam is not visible from the face of the trousers.

The finishing stitch is optional, but it is very important that it is elastic. It can be the same zigzag, zigzag three or any decorative seam that can be stretched without tearing.

When the entrance to the pocket is turned, we sew the burlap-valve, having previously chipped the pocket with tailor's pins. We sew on an overlock with a knitted seam, but if you do not have enough experience, you can sew with a narrow zigzag, and then overcast with an edge or knitted seam.

Pay attention to the fact that only a part of the burlap sections are ground (Fig. 5).

After grinding the burlap, bartacks are performed on the front side of the PP. The optimal bartack length is 1.5 cm. You can use a regular straight stitch or a tight zigzag.

It is important that the bartack does not get into the seam of the side tuck and into the seam of attaching the belt - otherwise these seams will not stand and the trousers will often have to be repaired. Therefore, the distance from the cut to the bartack should be 1 - 1.2 cm.

Overcast the patch pockets for the back half from the side of the entrance to the pocket, previously duplicating the allowance with a knitted doubler.

Then, all allowances are ironed on a cardboard template.

Pockets are marked in the middle of the RFP down from the waist 5 - 7 cm and adjusted.

When the pockets are ready, do not forget to iron them carefully.

We grind the tuck with a narrow zigzag and overcast with a knitted seam, then iron it. We fill the ends of the line with a needle with a large eye inside the seam.

We grind with a knitted seam and iron the step seams. We grind the seam of the bow-vision with the same knitted seam. You can also strengthen this seam with a narrow zigzag or a special “unequal” zigzag. The main thing is that the elasticity is preserved and do not forget about the iron.

We grind the belt into a “ring” and iron it in half lengthwise. We leave holes in the seam of the belt for pulling the elastic. We lay two lines along the belt with a narrow zigzag. After that, the belt can be stitched, overcast the stitching seam and put an elastic band into it.

For sewing sports trousers at home, when processing the belt, it is recommended to use a narrow elastic band so as not to damage the household machine by sewing on a wide elastic band.

We process the bottom into a hem with an open cut - we fold it once and hem it with a zigzag-three or any other decorative elastic seam.

The ideal option is a stitching line, but it can be replaced.

Building a pattern of men's trousers

The construction of men's trousers is based on the article "Zlachevskaya's trousers".

When taking measurements from Leonid, pay attention to how easier it is to add an increase in freedom of fitting to the BC in the measurements of the BC: take it right!
In the length measurements, both the length to the floor and the required length of the trousers are indicated (in our particular case, it is 3 centimeters shorter).

PH=1.5	PU=7	DP=99/96	OT=75+2=77
BX=2	BU=15	DB=100/97	OB=88+6=94
ZX=5.5	memory=15	DZ=100.5/97.5	Sun=25+2=27
VK=43

Let's do the calculations.

We consider the amount of darts at the waist:
S=(OB-FROM):2=(94-77):2=8.5cm

Let's calculate the solutions of tucks.
RP \u003d 1.5: (1.5 + 2 + 5.5) * 8.5 \u003d 1.4
RB \u003d 2: 9 * 8.5 \u003d 1.9
РЗ \u003d 5.5: 9 * 8.5 \u003d 5.2

We calculate the offset of the side seam.
ОО1=(ЗХ-РХ):2=(5.5-1.5):2=2 cm
As mentioned earlier in the article on constructing a skirt pattern, if OO1 is more than 2 cm, then it makes sense to divide this value in half, thereby making a compromise decision, and placing a real side seam between the verticals drawn through the waist and hips section. OO1:2=1 cm.

Calculate the width of the panels.
Front part width = OB:4-OO1:2=94:4-1=22.5 cm
Back part width = OB:4+OO1:2=23.5+1=24.5 cm

Side tuck distribution
It is carried out in the same way as when constructing a skirt pattern.
RB=1.9cm
The length of the arc at the waist in stitched form:
FROM:4=77:4=19.3 cm
The length of the arc according to the drawing, with a tuck at the waist:
19.3+RP=19.3+1.4=20.7
Part of the side tuck that needs to be removed from the front panel:
22.5-20.7=1.8cm
Then from the back panel you need to remove:
1.9-1.8=0.1 cm.

Calculate the width of the wedges of the trousers.
The amount of wedges \u003d OB * 0.38 * 0.38 \u003d 88 ** 0.38 * 0.38 \u003d 13.6 cm
SHPK \u003d ABOUT * 0.38 * 0.38 * 0.38 \u003d 5.2 cm
WZK=8.4 cm

Construction of a drawing of trousers. Front detail.

Drawing grid. Stepping back from the top edge of the sheet by an amount equal to the length of the future product plus 5-10 cm, we draw a horizontal line, which is the bottom line of the trousers.

Stepping back from the right edge of the sheet of 20-25 scale cm, raise the vertical by DB = 97 cm, getting a side seam line. DB point.
Along the bottom line, set aside to the left of the side seam the width of the front panel of the broadband = 22.5 cm.
From the obtained point, we raise the vertical line of the middle of the front DP \u003d 96 cm. DP point.
Along the line of the side seam from the point DB down, we set aside the value BC \u003d 27 cm, getting a seat line.
From the bottom line upwards, set aside the value of VK = 43 cm, getting the line of the knee.
Front wedge. From the line of the middle of the front along the line of the seat to the left, set aside the width of the front wedge ShPK = 5.2 cm, denote the resulting point as ShPK (fig. below)

From the line of the seat up along the line of the middle of the front, set aside the value of SHPK = 5.2 cm. Pair the obtained point with the SPK point. An experienced cutter will draw the desired curvature with one stroke of a pencil. This experienced cutter may skip the next paragraph.

The operation of conjugation of points for the front wedge.
We put the legs of the compass at the points that need to be matched. With a radius of 5.2 cm, we make serifs R1=5.2 cm, R2=5.2 cm. Having obtained the intersection of two arcs, we put the leg of the compass in it, and R3=5.2 cm we connect the points. So R1=R2=R3=5.2 cm.

Side notch. On the line of the side seam from top to bottom, set aside the value BY = 15 cm. Place the leg of the compass at the obtained point, and draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to BY = 15 cm.

On the front panel, set aside in an arc to the left the calculated width of the side tuck of 1.8 cm. Connect the resulting point to point BY, obtaining the contour of the side tuck, the total opening of which is 1.9 cm.
Arrow position. To find the position of the arrow, it is necessary to measure the distance from the ShPK point to the side seam, and divide it in half.

Waistline. To find the waist line, draw a horizontal line from the DP point to the intersection with the arrow, then connect the intersection point with the end point of the side tuck on the front panel.

Front tuck. Since this construction is not performed for a specific model, but for the base, the tuck can be replaced with a tuck and its location left at your discretion. RP = 1.4 cm. In the future, when making a tuck, its length will set the value of PU. How to arrange the front tuck at the waist in the proportions of the "golden section", you can see in the construction of the skirt pattern.

Inseam. From the line of the height of the seat to the line of the knee, narrow the part of the trousers by half the width of the front wedge, i.e. by 2.6 cm. Lower the verticals from the knee line to the intersection with the bottom line.

Back detail.
Drawing grid. It is advisable to build the rear part on the contour of the front. In this case, you already have a bottom line, a knee line, and a seat height line.

We position the back part in such a way that the line of the middle at the back (middle back seam) coincides with the line of the middle of the front in the drawing. To do this, from the line of the bottom up along the line of the middle of the front, we set aside the value of DZ = 97.5 cm.

On the line of the bottom from the line of the middle of the front, set aside to the right the width of the rear panel WZD = 24.5 cm.
From the obtained point, we raise the vertical of the side seam at the back DB = 97 cm.
The seat line of the rear part coincides with the seat line of the front part. BC=27 cm.
Rear wedge. From the DZ line to the left along the seat line, draw an arc equal to the width of the rear wedge, SZK = 8.4 cm.

Measure with a compass the distance from the knee line on the front part to the point of the ShPK along the instep seam, and, stepping back along the knee line from the instep seam of the front part by 1.5 cm, put the leg of the compass at the obtained point, draw a second arc. At the intersection we get the point SZK.

Measure the distance from the seat line up to the end point of the DZ segment, and divide it in the proportions of the "golden section", 27.5x0.38 \u003d 10.5

Perform pairing for rear wedge, points 10.5 with point SZK.
The legs of the compass are placed at the points that need to be matched. Pairing is performed with a larger radius. 10.5>8.4 cm, so the fillet radius is 10.5 cm. R1=10.5 cm and R2=10.5 cm
Let's put the leg of the compass at the intersection of two arcs, R3 = 10.5 cm, we will pair.

Side tuck. On the line of the side seam of the back part from top to bottom, set aside the value BY = 15 cm, we get the point BY back.

Put the leg of the compass at the obtained point, and draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to BY \u003d 15 cm.
On the back panel, set aside in an arc to the left the calculated width of the side tuck for the back panel of 0.1 cm.
Connect the resulting point with the back point BY.
Waistline. To get a preliminary waist line, connect the points of the DZ and the point of the end of the side tuck at the back.

Step increase. From point 10.5, draw a horizontal line to the right until it intersects with the side seam of the back piece, getting point O.

Turn the resulting trapezoid, the shaded part in the drawing, clockwise around the point O by the amount of increment per step.
It's important to know! The increase per step is selected in the range from 1 (for tight-fitting youth trousers made of stretch fabric) to 3.5 cm, depending on the purpose of the trousers, the structure of the fabric and the model. Too little increase will create discomfort when moving, too much will form a bag in the buttocks area, as they say, the “OMON” effect.
In our case, the increase is 3 cm. By building on tracing paper, you can cut the pattern along the intended line and actually rotate the part. Performing a scale construction, rotation can be performed using a compass.

In some cases, it is necessary to smooth the corner in the BY area, in the side seam.

Middle back cut. According to calculations, the size of the back tuck is 5.2 cm. Two-thirds of this value, i.e. We will draw 3.5 cm in the form of a tuck on the back panel of the trousers, and remove one third in the middle back seam 1.7 cm (see the construction on the upper right drawing).

Set aside 1.7 cm from the DZ point to the right, and from the resulting point we draw a tangent to the curved line of the rear wedge, obtaining the shape of the middle rear cut.

Connect the end of the tuck to the end of the side tuck on the back piece, getting the final position waist line on the back of the pants.

Rear tuck. To determine the location of the remaining part of the back tuck, you can do the following:

Measure the actual distance along the waistline of the back piece, i.e. the distance from the side cut to the middle back cut, divide the resulting value in half. The resulting point will be the middle of the tuck. Set aside 1.8 cm from it to the left to the right. Draw a tuck on the base perpendicular to the waist line. The top of the tuck on the base is at a distance of ZU = 15 cm, however, due to the fact that an increase was made per step, the length of the tuck can be reduced to an acceptable one. The tuck should not be longer than the expanded trapezoid. If necessary, you can split the tuck and transfer. For details, see The tuck problem.

Step seam. The width of the trouser leg of the back part relative to the front part is 1-2 cm larger, depending on the figure and the freedom of fitting the model. For the classic model - by 1.5 cm. Along the knee line from the contours of the front part, set aside 1 cm to the left and right and get the final view of the side and crotch seam. From the knee line, lower the verticals to the intersection with the bottom line.

bottom line, depending on the fashion, even or beveled (i.e. difference from 0 to 1 cm) is possible. With a bevel of 1 cm along the line of the arrow in front, set aside 0.5 cm up, and down 0.5 cm in the center of the bottom at the back. We connect these points with the side line.

Important! In the process of wet-heat treatment allowances middle cut must be braced. Allowances should take the shape of the part along the cut.

how to sew men's trousers

If you decide to sew men's trousers yourself, you need to take into account a lot of points, important and not so easy when sewing. This is a zipper, and pockets, and processing of the bottom of the trousers, and a belt. Master classes collected on the pages of a large handicraft encyclopedia http://pro100hobbi.ru/ will help you cope with tailoring. After studying them, you will be able to sew trousers yourself, and in different styles) Look, read, create) Your men will appreciate your work)

Ski pants with synthetic winterizer

When sewing insulated trousers and building a pattern. it is necessary to take into account that there will be a lining and a synthetic winterizer inside. Therefore, if you have a trouser base pattern, then it needs to be slightly increased in size. How to sew sports ski pants for a man - a master class will tell. Watch and create

Men's loose-fitting trousers

These loose-fitting trousers are sewn with a zipper in the middle seam. They are lightweight and very comfortable. How to sew them yourself - the master class will tell. See and try to sew the same ones yourself.

Side pockets on classic men's trousers

If you decide to sew men's classic trousers yourself, then every little thing is important when sewing. It is very important to sew pockets correctly. How to do this - the master class will tell. Watch the video and create

How to sew men's work trousers

Work clothes are quite expensive, but you can try to make them yourself. This master class tells you how to sew work trousers yourself. It's easy to do. Watch the video and get creative

How to sew home sports men's trousers

All men love sports trousers) It is convenient to walk in them both at home and on the street - for example, to go outdoors in such trousers, or to do a morning run) To sew sports trousers yourself, you must first build a pattern. How to do this - the master class will tell. Learn and create

Pattern of men's dress pants

This master class provided the exact correct pattern of men's classic trousers for size 170-100-88, where 170 is height, 100 is chest circumference (i.e. 50 size), 88 is waist circumference. Having built it, you can change the size a little and get the pattern you need. See the article and build)

Sewing. Pattern-basis of trousers according to Italian technology. Description and video tutorial

Do not rush to leave the page, thinking that you already know how to build a pattern of trousers! Why? I'll explain now…
How many actions do you need to do to get a pattern, right?
That is why I went searching on the Internet, and came across a surprisingly simple, but at the same time accurate Italian technique.

Construction of a pattern-basis of trousers (description)

In this article, we will consider the construction of a basic pattern of straight women's trousers according to the Italian method. Its main difference from other methods is that the side seam of the product is shifted to the center of the back panel by 1 cm.
The main advantage of basic patterns, as a rule, is the possibility of using them as a basis for modeling trousers, shorts, bridge, etc. The advantages of the Italian cut are obvious for women with a large back curve. Due to its design, the pants have a perfect fit in the waist and hips.

Initial data
So, to build a pattern, we need initial data - measurements. It is advisable that you have someone help you measure them. Note that all measurements are measured in underwear and recorded in the table.

Important: as the initial data, measurements of size 50 for women according to the Italian cutting system were taken.
For other sizes, see Standard measurements used in the Italian cutting system.

Measure Designation Value
Waist circumference OT 84
Hip circumference OB 110
Thigh height WB 20.5
Seat height BC 28
Knee height VK 60.5
Knee girth OK 26
Pants length DI 106

Note: Wb is measured from the waist line to the horizontal line drawn along the most protruding points of the buttocks; Sun is measured in a sitting position - the distance from the lower edge of the tape at the waist to the plane of the chair; Vk in this case is measured on the side from the waist to the middle of the kneecap.

When constructing a basic pattern of trousers, we accept the necessary allowances for a free fit:

Increase Designation Value (CM)
Waist increase Ex. T 1
Increase to the hips Ex. B 2

When modeling, the increments can be changed within the limits: for Pt from 0 to 1.5 cm, for Pb from 0.5 to 4 cm. The degree of fit of the product depends on the increments.

Building a pattern of trousers

(Fig. 1) So, we recommend building a pattern drawing on graph paper (it is sold in rolls up to 1 m wide) or in special programs for building patterns, such as RedCafe. (favorite software of engineers Autocad is also suitable)
Let's start by building the front panel of the trousers. In the upper right corner we put point A. Further, from point A down we set aside two measurements: Wb - we set point B and Vs - we set point C.

(Fig. 2) From point B to the left, we set aside a segment equal to ¼ (OB + Pr.b) - point B1 and to the right 0.5 cm - point B2

(Fig. 3) From point C to the left, set aside the value of segment BB1, set point C1 and to the right - a segment equal to 1/20 OB - point C2

(Fig. 4) We connect the points C2, B2 and A with a smooth line, we get the middle seam.

(Fig. 5) We return to t.A. To the left we set aside ¼OT + 3cm, put t.A1. Up from point A1, set aside 1 cm and set point A2.

(Fig. 6) Using the pattern, we connect the points A2, B1, C1. If there is no template at hand, we draw a smooth line.

(Fig. 7) Find the middle of the segment С1С2, set point D. We draw a perpendicular to the line C1C2 and at the intersection with the line AA1 we set t.E.

(Fig. From t.E down we set aside two measurements: Vk - set t.D1 and Dl.br - t.F.

(Fig. 9) From point D1 we set aside equal segments to the right and left and set points D2 and D3. The segment D2D3 will be equal to the measure 1/2 Ok.

(Fig. 10) We take the bottom of the trousers pattern equal to the segment D2D3, set the points F2 and F1, where point F is the middle of the segment F2F1.

(Fig. 11) We connect the points C2, D2, F2 and get the inner seam. We connect the points C1, D3, F1 and get the outer seam. Segment DD1F is the midpoint.

(Fig. 13) With a pattern, we connect the points of the upper cut AE2 and A2E1.

(Fig. 14) The pattern for the front of the trousers is ready. Let's get to the back part.

Building the back of the trousers pattern:

The construction is carried out on a ready-made drawing. We recommend taking a colored pencil in your hands so as not to get confused in the lines. We start again with t.A. To the left of it we set aside a segment equal to ½ AE + 2 cm and set the so-called. Up 2 cm from t.N we draw a perpendicular and set t.H1.

(Fig. 15) To the left of point C, set aside a segment equal to 1/24 (1/2OB), put point C3 and connect it with a straight line to point H1.

(Fig. 16) From point C3, we set aside to the right a segment equal to 1/10 Ob - point C4.

(Fig. 17) We extend to the left the line AA1 from t.N by ¼ From - 1 cm (here is the Italian offset of the side seam) + 2 cm (to the tuck) and put t.N2. From it we draw a perpendicular upwards by 1 cm and put t. H3, which we connect with t. H1.

(Fig. 18) Enter the reference point L, which is the point of intersection of the segments B1B2 and H1C3.

(Fig. 19) From point L to the left, we draw a segment equal to ¼OB and set point L1.
We connect the points H3, L1 with a pattern - we get the outer seam. We connect the points L, C4 - we get the middle seam.

(Fig. 20) The construction of the knee line and the bottom line on the pattern of the back is as follows: from the points D2, D3, F1, F2 in the direction of increase, set aside 1.5 cm and put the points G, G1, F3, F4. We connect the points L1, G, F3 and the points C4, G1, F4 with smooth lines. We get the inner and outer seams.

(Fig. 21) The tuck on the back half of the trousers is built on the H1H3 line. t.M - the middle of this line. We postpone from t.M on both sides 1 cm and down parallel to the line H1L 14 cm, we get points M1, M2 and N.

(Fig. 22) Now the main thing is to check the pattern. The length on both seams (inner and outer) on the front and back panel must be the same. To do this, we remove the pattern of the front of the trousers on tracing paper and put it on the pattern of the back of the trousers, combining the edges of the inner seams. Next, we shift the pattern until the line of the middle seam is aligned, and the back seam may be longer than the front. Then we act according to the same principle, combining the edges of the outer seams and shifting the pattern until the side points of the waist coincide.

Congratulations! The pattern of women's trousers is ready!

A source

PANTS PATTERN BASIS. Video master class!

will be built in two stages, and in finished form it will look something like this:

Front half - how to make a video pattern:

And of course, the back half, which is based on the front half:

You may also be interested

Clothing constructor

Good day, dear readers! Just as it is difficult to imagine a person living in the conditions of modern civilization who does not have at least one pair of shoes, it is impossible to imagine a man who does not have trousers. Therefore, we will not talk about the importance of this type of clothing. Let's just say that if you have a pattern-the basis of men's trousers, you have in your hands a kind of "key to all doors": after all, with its help you can create absolutely any type of men's belt clothing (that is, what is worn on the lower part of the body ) - from classic and sports trousers to jeans and shorts. Modern men's fashion is diverse, and every representative of the strong half of humanity - regardless of age, build and individual preferences - can find a suitable style for themselves. Today we will share with you the secrets of designing men's trousers. Well, let's start, according to the established tradition, with a short digression into history. So,

The history of classic style trousers

Men's suit of the classical style (or the so-called "English cut"), similar in its principles to the modern one, appeared already in the second half of the 19th century. At the same time, a rational wardrobe of men's clothing similar to the modern one was formatted and approved. The most widespread among all types of other clothing since the beginning of the 20th century was the suit, consisting of a jacket, vest and trousers, which acquired stable shapes and lines and became a classic type of men's clothing of the 20th century. Over the next decades, the classic types of menswear, and trousers among them, depending on the prevailing fashion, underwent certain changes (sometimes quite insignificant in some seasons).

At the very beginning of the 20th century, the change in the fashionable image of a man was greatly influenced by changing living conditions - the development of various sports, the distribution of cars, airplanes, motorcycles. For sports and new activities, new, more appropriate costumes were created, the forms of which provided much greater freedom of movement, and the image conducive to greater ease of behavior.

So, we offer you a retrospective look at the fashion that has touched men's trousers within the last century*.

20s

By the end of the 1920s, the shape of the trousers, in comparison with the beginning of the century, becomes more straight, even along the entire length, the narrowing of the shape downwards disappears, the vertical of the rigidly ironed fold is accentuated. Separate sharp shapes and curves of the figure are leveled, smoothed out: the waist is less emphasized, the hint of roundness in the abdomen disappears - the entire silhouette of the suit approaches a rectangle, and the shape of the trousers also contributes to this.

30s

During the early 1930s, trousers become wider from top to bottom, more spacious and are laid with soft folds at the waistline, in addition, they lengthen to the heel. The width of the trousers is hidden by more and more rigidly ironed vertical folds, which make their shape narrower, flattened in front, but wide and straight in profile. By the end of the 1930s, trousers were becoming rigid rectangular shapes.

40s

The most characteristic fashion trend of the 40s was the increase in the width of the trousers from top to bottom, their increasing spaciousness. At the end of this trend, their width at the bottom reached 30 cm or more. They gave the impression of a common large and static mass and resembled "two skirts". The entire male costume of this period as a whole was characterized by the predominance of masculinity and strength in the images, it was distinguished by its clarity, militarization of forms.

50s

Since the end of the 1940s, the masses and forms of clothing have been decreasing, fabrics have been lightened, lengths have been shortened, and widths have decreased. In the 1950s, trousers that were still loose at the top gradually narrowed down, fitting the legs. Their average width along the bottom was recommended 22.5 cm, and at the knee - 2.5 cm wider. They are slightly shortened so that the colored socks are visible, and this further facilitates their shape. The folds of the trousers are rigidly and strictly ironed.

It is worth noting that in real life this transition from loose-fitting trousers to skinny ones was carried out slowly and gradually: men were more conservative in fashion then, and at that time it was also a consequence of economic difficulties. Therefore, men in old-fashioned, baggy suits with wide trousers in the form of "two skirts" continued to appear for a long time, until the mid-50s, along with others dressed in completely different fashionable uniforms.

However, the youth of the 50s, having picked up the trend of narrowing trousers, is carried away by it to the extreme, and by the end of the 50s. trousers reach down to 20 cm or less at the bottom, turning into pipes that are tight-fitting legs. So, for example, young sailors who wanted to look fashionable in the 1940s sewed in, and in the 1960s plucked wedges from their uniform trousers, violating the established standard for their width. It was during this period of time that the term “dandies” appeared, which was fixed for those who followed the fashion unusually boldly for that time.

60s

In the 1960s, there was a significant change in the criteria of aesthetics and culture of men's clothing - expediency, convenience, and comfort became the leading principles. And in search of these principles, bold and irreversible innovations are taking place - fashion designers borrow elements from work, sports, and even women's clothing for a men's suit, abandoning previous prejudices.

So "Texas", later called jeans, for a long time were working clothes - practical, reliable and comfortable. Their second birth took place just in the 60s of the XX century, and jeans became one of the most significant fashion discoveries. The functionality and sporty dynamic style of jeans was emphasized by a tight-fitting cut for legs and hips, decorative stitching of all details, metal rivets, and original pockets. Skillfully placed and decorated pockets accentuated those parts of the body below the waist that were not so openly revealed by the costume before.

In the second half of the 60s, the trousers lengthen, reach the middle of the back of the boot, their bottom line is beveled - they are shorter in front by 1-15 cm. In addition, they become less narrow and straight from the knee to the bottom (average width - 23 cm). top lineThe trousers fall from the waist to the hips, tightly fitting them and releasing a slender waist.

Due to the fact that fashion now offered a diverse range of shoulder clothing - jackets, blouses, pullovers, turtlenecks - the jacket loses its compulsion even in a business suit. And, as a result, more attention began to be paid to trousers, as an independent element of clothing (their shape, finish, details). The silhouette of trousers by the end of the 60s began to acquire a trend of expansion from the knee down.

70s

In the early 70s, there were still two styles in men's fashion - classic and sporty, and two silhouettes - semi-fitted and straight. The trousers still fit tightly around the hips, widen at the bottom (from 21-23 cm to 27-30 cm) and lengthen, covering the heels of the shoes. In addition, 4-5 cm wide cuffs that weight down the bottom of the trousers appear. Legs in flared trousers help to emphasize narrow hips and, in general, we can say that the classic suit of the early 70s has a youthful character. In addition, silhouette legs are additionally lengthened due to shoes with thick soles and high heels, like in women.

By the mid-70s, the overall volume of clothing increased slightly, and the forms softened. The trousers are already expanding downwards a little less, they are already loose-fitting rather than flared, with a more relaxed, even shape along the entire length, with a tight fit along the hips and the waistline in a natural place. Yes, and the shoes are returning to the classic parameters.

By the end of the 70s, the trousers become a little shorter and narrower from the hips down, and one or two folds are laid from the belt. Width at the bottom from 24 to 28 cm, depending on height.

80s

In the 80s, the classic version of the suit was dominated by straight, fairly wide trousers, most often with soft folds at the waist. In the sporty style, a variant of trousers appears, baggy at the top (the volume was also created using folds at the waist) with a pronounced narrowing down - the so-called "bananas".

90s

In the 90s, with the rise of grunge and the increasing popularity of rap and hip-hop, the fashion for baggy trousers flourished, as well as trousers of incredible width with a very low rise, revealing the belt of underwear. Also one of the popular models are cargo pants - military-style trousers with numerous patch pockets. In the early 90s, in the classic version, the trousers are still quite voluminous and retain folds at the waist; by the end of the decade, their width gradually decreases, keeping the silhouette straight from the hip.

2000s

The first decade of the new century is difficult to characterize by any single stable trend, there is a frequent change of styles. Not without some bright touches, of course. For example, a model of women's pants with a very low crotch seam (forming a kind of "crotch" between the legs) migrated to the men's wardrobe by the middle of the 2000s. However, few hurried to take advantage of such a novelty - mainly advanced youth. The only thing that can be mentioned about classic trousers is that their width is no longer strictly regulated, but throughout the decade it remained very moderate. Folds can be found only in rare copies, and it is recommended to iron the trousers of the trousers.

Modern trousers

So, what options does fashion provide for men now, in the second half of the 10s of the 21st century? These are the most diverse models of trousers, their width at the bottom in the “calm” version of models straight from the hip or knee can vary from 22 to 26 cm. given the elasticity of the fabrics used, it can be 20 centimeters or less.

So, let's give examples of some types of trousers, the names of which can be found in the men's clothing catalogs of our days.

Pants that are part of a classic suit now rarely have pleats at the waist. Basically, taking into account the age difference of the category of men wearing such suits, these are models that are straight from the hip, sitting quite tightly on the hips with an average fit along the waistline. In more youthful casual style suits, trousers are becoming narrower and shorter, taking on the appearance of pipes already well known to us from the 50s of the last century.

You can also often find such a name for trousers as " slacks "- literally it can be translated as "lazy", but in modern English there is such a translation of this word as "wide trousers". However, this term does not always mean wide trousers, but refers mainly to trousers that are not part of a suit and are a relaxed version of regular dress pants. Slacks look more casual than dress pants, very often they do without ironed arrows at all, and you can combine them with more than just business items.

Chinos , like slacks, are not a specific model, but they also have a number of features that make it possible to identify them among other types of trousers. These are colored trousers, most often sewn from 100% cotton (but given the current trends towards cheaper production, they are also found from mixed fabrics). The cut can vary, but according to modern trends, it is also usually tapered. Other distinctive features are slanted pockets on the front and welt pockets on the back.

Whatever the model of trousers is called, skinny models are at the peak of popularity, and if a taut figure allows, you can choose both a classic and a casual version in such a silhouette. For those who have a more solid physique, or those who, due to their age, are not suited to the pursuit of every trendy trend, there is an option to choose trousers with a straighter and calmer silhouette, and at the same time also look stylish and timely!

So, let's get down to what we have gathered today - to build a basic pattern for men's trousers.

Building a pattern for the base of men's trousers

Required measurements and other quantities

In order to build a pattern, we need the following figure measurements:

• Distance from the waistline to the plane of the seat Ds - measured from the side in a sitting position from the waist line to the horizontal plane of the seat.
• Hip girth About- measured at the level of the most protruding points of the buttocks horizontally around the body, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen (for this, a flexible plate is placed behind the tape wrapping around the waist line, placing it vertically to the stomach and when measuring, a centimeter tape is drawn over it).
• Waist From - measured horizontally around the body at the level of the waist line.
• Inner leg length day ** - measure the distance from the crotch to the floor along the inner surface of the leg with the legs slightly apart.

** Actually, instead of leg length Dn ,you can use:
1 ) measure waist to floor distance Dsb(measured from the side!);
2 ) or immediately ask what you need pants length dB from the waistline (which is less convenient and, for the most part, subjective, so how it can still be determined - a little later ...)

The entire base grid of the drawing of trousers is based on these measurements, therefore, if you imagine how the lines of this grid correspond to the lines of a human figure, it will be easy for you to remember and logically reproduce the sequence of construction, and also to imagine how the shape of the trousers will change when the increments and relative position change the main horizontal lines of the grid.

In addition, you will also need to set this parameter:

• Pants width at the bottom shn

As we saw in our retrospective review, bottom pants width- the value is not constant, and largely depends on the fashion. We want to have basic pattern, which can be taken as a basis for modeling a variety of styles of trousers. Therefore, in our example of construction, we will take the average value of the width of the trousers at the bottom - 25 cm. Given this parameter, we can get a pattern of moderate straight trousers, and from it, through certain transformations, you, if desired, will get a pattern of any other - narrow or wide - trousers.

The length of the trousers also depends on the width of the trousers at the bottom - because, depending on the degree of fit of the leg, distance from the line of the bottom of the trousers to the floor Rnp will be different.

And now it's the same a little bit later”, which we talked about when we said that when building the base grid, we can use the length of the pants dB : The length of the pants from the waistline can be obtained as the distance from the waistline to the floor Dsb minus Rnp

Db \u003d Dsp - Rnp

And the value of the quantity distance from the line of the bottom of the trousers to the floor Rnp you can choose based on the width of the trousers:

• For wide trousers (Shn = 28-32cm) Rnp = 3-4 cm
• Dl moderate trousers (Shn = 24-27cm) Rnp = 5-6 cm
• For narrow trousers (Shn = 20-23cm) Rnp = 7-8 cm

Let's repeat again: no need to measure and Chipboard , And day …. enough to measure one thing!

Building a pattern of trousers

So, now the most interesting: consider EXAMPLE building a drawing on a figure with the following parameters:

• Ds =26.6 cm
• About= 102 cm
• From = 84 cm
• day = 85.8 cm (or Dsb =116.4 cm)

Additionally we use:

• Shn = 25 cm.

Accordingly, with such values ​​​​of the width of the trousers and the distance from the waistline to the floor, we can immediately determine the estimated length of the trousers using the formula:

• db = dsb – Rnp = 116,4 – 5 = 111.4 cm

We will also need Increases :

• to the hips: Psb = 1 cm
• to the half-circumference of the waist: Pst = 0.5 cm

That is, to the real girths in our example, the increase will be: along the hips - 2 cm, and along the waist line - 1 cm.

In fact, the increase in the hips when building on older figures, as well as figures of greater fullness *** can be increased to Psb = 2 cm.

*** Under " completeness » in male figures, the difference between chest girth Og and waist circumference From . The smaller this difference (it can also be negative), the greater the completeness.

Slightly increase the gain on the hipsPsb makes sense when the value of the total difference is less than 10 cm. So, although the measureOg and is not used directly when constructing a drawing of trousers, it will not be superfluous to measure it! Recall that the girth of the chest is measured (the one that interests us - the so-called "third") at the level of the nipple points horizontally around the body.

Building a drawing grid

So, what the basic grid looks like - you could already imagine thanks to the drawing presented above. Let us explain its construction in a little more detail, and so that we have it before our eyes, we present it again:

Draw a vertical line - trouser fold line. This will be the line along which the arrows on the trousers are ironed if they are provided in your model.

Mark a point on this line T and draw a line through it. It will be waistline the front half of the pants.

from point T set aside the measurement along the fold line down Ds(distance from the waist line to the plane of the seat) and mark the point W. Draw a line through a point W- it will be stride line .

For example: TS=26.6 cm

The next drawing grid point is a point H, indicating the position of the horizontal bottom lines . You can get it in two ways (depending on what measure you "stocked" - day or Chipboard):

1. from the point W down, lay the length of the leg along the inner surface day and mark the point H(in this case, you will need to specify the length of the finished trousers when trying on), or ....
2. from the point T down the length of the trousers Dl and mark the point H.

For example: SHN= 85.8 cm, or TN=111.4 cm

Divide the segment SHN in half and mark a point 5 cm above the resulting point TO. Through the dot TO draw a horizontal line - this will be the approximate level of the knees.

For example: NK\u003d 84.8 / 2 + 5 \u003d 47.2 cm

from point W set aside ¼ measurements Ds and mark the point B. Drawn through a point B the horizontal will hip line .

For example: SB\u003d 26.6 / 4 \u003d 6.7 cm

Building the front of the trousers

To the left of the dot W on the step lines mark a point Ш1at a distance equal to Ob / 12 + 0.5 cm.

For example: SHSH1\u003d 102/12 + 0.5 \u003d 9 cm

To the left of the dot Ш1 on the step lines mark a point SH2 at a distance equal to about / 16-0.5 cm.

For example: Ш1Ш2\u003d 102 / 16-0.5 \u003d 5.9 cm

From a point Ш1 up draw a vertical line up. Mark its intersection with the line of the hips with a dot B1, and with a waist line - a dot T1.

from point T1 set aside 1 cm to the right along the waist line and put a dot T2.

Mark an auxiliary point Ш1" necessary to draw a smooth midline of the front. It is on the bisector of the angle Ш2Ш1Т1 at a distance of about 3 cm from the point Ш1. For larger sizes (with a hip circumference of 110 or more), this value should be increased to approximately 3.5 cm.

SH2, Ш1", B1 And T2. It will be middle line the front of the trousers.

from point T2 along the waistline to the right, set aside a distance equal to From/4+Pst(where Pst\u003d 0.5 cm - an increase along the waistline) and mark the point T3.

For example: T2T3\u003d 84 / 4 + 0.5 \u003d 21.5 cm

from point B1 along the line of the hips to the right, set aside a quarter of the girth of the hips and mark the point B2.

For example: B1B2\u003d R/4 \u003d 102 / 4 \u003d 25.5 cm

from point H along the line of the bottom of the trousers to the left and to the right, set aside half the measurements shn(pants width at the bottom) minus 1 cm and dot H1 And H2.

For example: HH1=HH2\u003d Wn / 2-1 \u003d 25 / 2-1 \u003d 11.5 cm

From points H1 And H2 draw vertical lines up to the intersection with the line of the knees and mark the points of intersection K1 And K2.

Spend sideline H2, K2, B2 And T3. At the same time: points H2 and K2 are connected by a straight line segment, in the section K2B2 the line has a deflection to the left by 0.5 cm, and then point B2 smoothly connects to point T3 (with a deflection to the right also about 0.5 cm).

Spend step line the front of the pants through the dots H1, K1,SH2. At the same time: points H1 and K1 are connected by a straight line segment, and in the section K1Sh2 the line has a deflection to the right by 1 cm.

So, we have received the detail of the front half of the trousers! Further construction of the contours of the back of the trousers is based on the same drawing.

Building the back of the trousers

from point Ш1 to the right set aside a quarter of the distance SHSH1 and mark the point Sh3.

For example: SH1SH3=SHSH1/4=9/4=2.25 cm

From a point Sh3 draw the vertical up and mark its intersection with the line of the hips with a dot B3, and with the waist line - T4.

Along this vertical from the point B3 set aside a quarter of the distance B3T4 and mark with a dot B4.

For example: B3B4=B3T4/4\u003d 19.9 / 4 \u003d 5 cm

from point SH2 set aside half the distance to the left Ш1Ш2 and put a dot Ш4. from point Ш4 put down 0.5 cm - and get a point Ш5, the extreme point of the "bow" of the back half of the trousers.

For example: W1W4= W1W2/2= 5.9/2=3 cm

Ш4Ш5= 0.5 cm

Set aside 2 cm along the waistline to the right - get a point T5, and another 2 cm up from the point T5- get a point T6.

Also mark an auxiliary point Ш3" necessary to draw a smooth midline of the back. It is on the bisector of the angle Ш4Ш3Т4 at a distance of about 4.5 cm from the point Sh3.

draw a smooth line through the dots Ш5, Ш3", B4 And T6. It will be middle line the back of the trousers.

Calculate the solution of the waist tuck on the back half of the trousers Vomit: it will be 15% of the difference between the hips and waist.

For example: Rip=0.15(Rev-From)=0.15*(102-84)=2.7cm

From a point T6 draw a cut- back waistline - until it intersects with the waist line of the front half, mark the point T7. Cut length Т6Т7 will be equal to a quarter of the circumference of the waist From plus a rear tuck solution.

For example: T6T7=From / 4 + Rvyt \u003d 84 / 4 + 2.7 \u003d 23.7 cm

In the middle of the segment Т6Т7 put an end to T8. from point T8 left and right set aside half of the solution of the back tuck Vomit/ 2 - these will be the edges of the tuck. And down perpendicular to the segment Т6Т7 from a point T8 set aside the length of the tuck (about 12 cm) - a point is obtained T8", top of the tuck. Connect the top of the tuck to its edges.

Along the line of the hips to the right of the point B3 take a quarter of the circumference of the hips plus an increase in the half circumference of the hips Psb in 1 cm, mark the point B5.

For example: B3B5=OB/4+Psb=102/4+1=26.5 cm

At the level of the knee line, set aside 1 cm to the left and right, respectively, from the points K1 And K2– received points K3 And K4.

And at the level of the bottom line, set aside 1 cm to the left and right, respectively, from the points H1 And H2– received points H3 And H4. Slightly bend the bottom line of the back half of the trousers between the points H3 And H4- about 1 cm down.

Spend sideline H4, K4, B5 And T7. In this case: dots H4 And K4 connected by a straight line, on the site K4B5 the line has a deflection to the left of about 1 cm, and then the point B5 smoothly connects to the point T7(with a small, no more than 0.5 cm deflection).

Spend step line the back of the pants through the dots H3, K3, Ш5. In this case: dots H3 And K3 are connected by a straight line segment, and on the site K3Sh5 the line has a deflection to the right by 1-1.5 cm.

The drawing of the back half of the trousers is ready!

Pants details

In theory, since we have drawings of the front and back halves of the trousers, then, in principle, it is already possible to sew trousers with a straight silhouette using them. But, besides the fact that you will need auxiliary details - such as a belt, pockets, codpiece - it will be necessary to adjust the contours of the main details themselves a little more. What will this adjustment be?

First of all, I would like to say that the pattern-base of the trousers that we have now received provides for the location of the line for attaching the belt of the trousers at the level of the waist line. What in real life NOT meets!!! Even if the trousers have a very “high” fit, the belt sewing line will in any case be 1-1.5 cm below the natural waistline.

And in the conditions of modern fashion, the line of attaching the belt of trousers can be located not only at the level of the ilium, but even lower. Thus, it is obvious that the waistline will need to be lowered.

Immediately, you will probably have a question: if you still have to lower the waistline, then why didn’t we do this right away when building the drawing? Naturally, we could take this into account, but in this case we would have to have at our disposal slightly different dimensions of the figure:

• instead of waist From use the waist circumference at the level of the trouser belt Otb
• determine how much the girth Otb is below the girth From - natural waistline (let's call this distance "belt position" Pp )
• when determining the length of trousers dB through the measurement of the distance from the waist line to the floor Chipboard the value of the “belt position” should be taken into account: Db \u003d Dsp - Rnp - Pp
• when constructing the basic grid, the segment TS determine also taking into account the "position of the belt": TS = Ds – Pp
• the length of the tuck on the back half of the trousers is also shortened by an amount Pp

If you already have the same original drawing, just built according to the “original” measurements, then you will need to adjust the contours of the front and back halves of the trousers, lowering the waist line by the required amount Pp . As a rule, in classic trousers, the belt sewing line is located 4 cm below the natural waist level, since the width of the belt itself is 3.6 - 4 cm. The belt sewing line is marked on the front and back halves of the trousers with lines parallel to the corresponding sections of the waist line. How it will look is shown in the figure below.

The converted contours of the details of the front and back halves of the trousers are shown in this figure with a thick line.

Depending on the model of the trousers, other details may vary, but as an example, this figure shows the construction of some of them.

What else might be needed details :

The proposed construction was carried out according to the unified method TsOTSHL.

Initial data

To build a drawing of the base of men's trousers, you need to know the measurements of the figure and the addition to the main measurements:

C t- half waist;

C b- semicircumference of the hips;

D shopping mall- the distance from the waist line to the knee line;

D b- length trousers;

Sh n- the width of the trousers along the bottom line - is selected based on the desire of the customer or according to the fashion trend;

W to- the width of the trousers at the level of the knees - is selected based on the desire of the customer or according to the fashionable direction (it is not necessary to know this value for building);

Increases P t And P b choose, according to the desired silhouette, from the table presented.

Drawing base grid construction

The construction of a design drawing for men's trousers begins with the construction of a base grid (see the figure on the left).

We draw a vertical line with a vertex at the point T 0. From the point T 0 down we set aside the segments that determine the position:

bottom line T 0 H 0 \u003d D b;

knee lines T 0 K 0 = D shopping mall;

seat height lines T 0 I 1 \u003d 0.5 * C b- 1 ... 2 cm, where 1..2 is a free member, while the larger value of the free member is taken when building trousers for a full figure.

According to this formula, the seat height is determined for figures with a height of 176 cm; for larger or smaller heights, this value increases or decreases by 0.7 cm, respectively.

From the point I 1, the segment I 1 B 1 is laid upwards, which determines the position of the line of the hips:

I 1 B 1 \u003d 1/3 T 0 I 1.

From the point T 0, the segment T 0 T 01 is laid down:

T 0 T 01 \u003d 0.1 * ( C b - C t).

Through the points T 01, B 1, I 1, K 0 and H 0 draw horizontal lines.

The width of the front of the trousers along the hip line is determined by the segment B 1 B 2:

B 1 B 2 \u003d 0.5 * ( C b + P b).

A vertical is drawn through point B 2, at the intersection of which with the horizontal T 01 the point T 2 is obtained, and with the horizontal I 1 - the point I 2.

Extension of the front along the hip line

B 2 B 21 \u003d 0.5 ... 0.7 cm.

The step width of the front part is calculated by the formula

I 2 I 3 \u003d 0.1 * ( C b + P b).

If the increase P b large (5 ... 7 cm), then

I 2 I 3 \u003d 0.1 * ( C b + P b) - 0.5 ... 0.7 cm.

The fold line of the trousers is located in the middle of the segment I 1 I 3, i.e. the width of the front of the trousers along the seat height line:

I 1 I \u003d IYA 3 \u003d I 1 I 3 / 2.

A vertical is drawn through the point I and when it intersects with the basic horizontals, points T, B, K, N are obtained.

The width of the trousers along the bottom line in finished form is determined based on the desire of the customer or according to the fashion trend. The width of the trousers along the bottom line of the front part is traditionally, according to the visual perception of the location of the side seam of the trousers, less than the width of the back part by 4 cm, i.e.

H 1 H 2 = Sh n- 2 cm.

The width of the trousers along the line of the bottom of the front part in the drawing

HH 1 \u003d HH 2 \u003d H 1 H 2 / 2.

The width of the trousers along the line of the bottom of the back in the drawing

HH 3 \u003d HH 4 \u003d HH 1 + 2 cm.

The position of the lateral edge of the back on the line of the hips determines the segment B 1 B 3:

B 1 B 3 \u003d 0.1 * ( C b + P b) - 2 cm.

The width of the back of the trousers along the hip line:

B 3 B 4 = ( C b + P b) - B 1 B 21 .

From point B 3 with radius B 3 B 4, an arc is drawn on which the segment B 4 B 5 is laid, which determines the balance of the trousers:

B 4 B 5 \u003d 0.05 * ( C b+ T 0 I 1) - 0.3 ... 0.5 cm for a typical figure;

B 4 B 5 \u003d 0.05 * ( C b+ T 0 I 1) + 0.5 cm for stooped figures and figures with convex buttocks;

B 4 B 5 \u003d 0.05 * ( C b+ T 0 I 1) - 1 cm for curved figures and figures with flat buttocks.

Auxiliary point I 21 is needed to determine the position of the midline of the back of the trousers:

I 2 I 21 = (0.03...0.05) C b.

A larger coefficient is taken for products for figures of large fullness.

Points I 21 and B 5 are connected by a straight line, continue it up and lay off the segment B 5 T 5:

B 5 T 5 \u003d B 4 T 2.

Point T 5 - the top of the midline of the back of the trousers.

Building the front of men's trousers

In the picture on the left you see a drawing of the front and back of men's trousers.

(To view an enlarged drawing in a separate window, click on the drawing with the mouse).

To build the midline, an auxiliary point 1 is found. From the point I 2 on the bisector of the angle B 2 I 2 I 3 lay the segment I 2 1:

I 2 1 \u003d 0.4 * I 2 B 2.

The middle line is drawn through the points T 2, B 21, 1, I 3.

Calculate the width of the front of the trousers along the waistline:

T 2 T 4 \u003d 0.5 * ( C t + P t) + in 1 + s,
where in 1 - tuck solution equal to 2 ... 2.5 cm; c - the depth of the fold, equal to 3 ... 5 cm.

The segment T 2 T 4 is laid on a straight line connecting the points T 2 and T 0. Usually, for figures with a difference in the half-girths of the hips and waist, which is in the range of 4 ... 10 cm, either a fold or a tuck is provided, more than 10 cm - both a fold and a tuck. In this case, the determining moment is the position of the point T 4 relative to the point T 0 . The segment T 4 T 0 should not exceed 1 cm. For products for figures with an increased protrusion of the abdomen, the middle line and the waist line are drawn somewhat differently. From the point T 2, the segment T 2 T 3 is laid up - the rise of the waistline:

T 2 T 3 \u003d 0.5 * ( C t+ 8 cm - C b).

From the point T 3 to the right horizontally lay the segment T 3 T 31 - the displacement of the top of the midline:

T 3 T 31 \u003d 0.4 * T 2 T 3.

In this case, the middle line is drawn through the points T 31, B 21, 1, I 3, and the waist line through the points T 31 (T 2) and T 4, first horizontally at a distance of 1/3 of the width of the front, and then along a smooth curve to the point T 4 .

If you know the width of the pants at the knees in finished form (at the request of the customer) W to, then from the point K to the right and to the left lay the segments KK 1 and KK 2:

KK 1 = KK 2 = ( W to- 2 cm)/2.

If this width is unknown, then from the point of intersection of the horizontal drawn through the point K with the straight line I 1 H 1 lay the segment K 3 K 1:

K 3 K 1 \u003d 1 ... 1.5 cm.

Moreover, the smaller the width of the trousers at the bottom, the greater the value of K 3 K 1. Further from the point K to the right horizontally lay a segment equal to KK 2:

KK 2 \u003d KK 1.

The step edge line is drawn through the points H 2 and K 2 in a straight line, through the points K 2 and R 3 - along a smooth concave line.

The line of the lateral edge is drawn through the points H 1 and K 1 in a straight line, and then along smooth concave (K 1 and I 1) and convex (I 1, B 1, T 4) curves.

Raising the middle of the bottom HH 5:

HH 5 \u003d 0 ... 1 cm.

With an increase in the width of the bottom, the value of HH 5 decreases.

The bottom line is drawn in a smooth curve through the points H 1, H 5, H 2.

Building the back of men's trousers

The width of the step of the back along the seat height line is set aside to the right of point I 21:

I 21 I 5 \u003d 0.25 * ( C b + P b) - 1.5 cm.

To build the middle line, auxiliary points are found I 32, 2:

I 3 I 32 \u003d 1 cm.

The segment I 3 I 32 is laid down along the line I 3 K 2:

I am 21 2 = 2...3 cm.

The segment I 21 2 is laid up and to the right along the bisector of the angle B 4 I 21 I 3.

The width along the line of the knees is determined by setting the segments KK 4 and KK 5 to the right and left of point K:

KK 4 \u003d KK 5 \u003d KK 1 + 2 cm.

Connect the direct points I 5 and K 4, the middle of the segment is indicated by point 3. From point 3 along the perpendicular to the line K 4 I 5 lay the segment 3-4:

3-4 = 1...1.5 cm.

The top of the step edge of the back is determined by setting aside the segment H 4 K 4 I 6:

H 4 K 4 I 6 \u003d N 2 K 2 I 3 - 0.5 ... 1 cm.
where 0.5 ... 1 cm is the value of the pull line of the step edge.

The line of the step edge is drawn through the points H 4 and K 4 in a straight line, through the points K 4, 4, I 6 - along a smooth concave curve.

The middle line is drawn through the points T 5, B 5, 2, I 32, I 6.

Back Width at Waistline:

T 5 T 7 \u003d 0.5 * ( C t + P t) + in 2 ,
where in 2 - the solution of the back tuck (or two tucks), equal to 2 ... 4 cm. The solution depends on the degree of protrusion of the buttocks.

The segment T 5 T 7 is laid off from the point T 5 to the intersection with the horizontal drawn through the point T 0 . The line of the lateral edge is drawn through the points H 3 and K 5 in a straight line, through the points K 5, B 3, T 7 - along a smooth curve.

The line of the side edge of the back is equalized with the line of the side edge of the front of the trousers:

N 3 K 3 B 3 T 71 \u003d N 1 K 1 B 1 T 4.

The waist line is drawn through the points T 71 and T 5.

A prerequisite is that at point T 5 the waist line forms a right angle with the midline.

Descent of the middle of the bottom of the back

HH 6 \u003d 0.5 ... 1 cm.

As in the front of the trousers, with an increase in the width of the trousers at the bottom, the value of HH 6 decreases. The bottom line is drawn through the points H 3, H 6, H 4.

Position of darts and pockets

On the front of the trousers, a tuck at the waist line is usually located along the fold line, its length does not exceed 1/3 of the seat height (segment T 0 I 01). The fold is usually located to the left of the fold line.

The front pocket line can be positioned in the side seam, obliquely, horizontally and vertically. The most common pocket solution is an inclined pocket with a cutting barrel. The upper end of the pocket is placed to the right of the point T 4 at a distance of 3.5 ... 4 cm. From this point on the line of the side edge, a notch is made with a radius equal to the length of the entrance to the pocket.

The length of the entrance to the pocket for sizes (on chest girths) 88-96 will be 16 cm, for sizes (on chest girths) 100-104 - 17 cm, for sizes (on chest girths) 112-128 - 18 cm.

Horizontal pockets both on the front and on the back are built parallel to the waist line at a distance of 6 ... 7.5 cm from it.

The end of the pocket facing the side edge is placed at a distance of 4-5 cm from it.

The length of the entrance to the pocket is equal to for sizes (according to chest girths) 88-108: 14 cm; 112-128: 15.5 cm.

One or two darts are built on the back of the trousers. The middle lines of the tucks are placed perpendicular to the pocket entry line.

You can read more about designing different types of pockets in men's trousers.

Checking the quality of the completed drawing

To check the correctness of the construction drawing of the design of men's trousers, the following work is performed:

1) measure the front and back of the trousers along the waist line, hip line, knee and bottom lines, the length of the trousers and compare the measurement results with the specified values. I check the calculation and the size of the seat height;

2) make sure that the lengths of the step and side lines of the front of the trousers are in relation to the back of the trousers;

3) check whether the front and back parts match along the side line at the level of the waist and bottom lines, along the step line at the level of the seat height and bottom lines; two front parts in the midline; two rear parts in the midline;

4) check whether the waistline is correctly built and shaped with closed tucks and folds.

By Marina Pankratieva 10/31/2017

Men's trousers in an hour How to sew homemade trousers with an elastic band based on a pattern of classic trousers

Men's trousers in an hour How to sew homemade trousers with an elastic band based on a pattern of classic trousers. Simplified men's trousers are the theme of our video. We have a course on designing and sewing men's trousers. Many have already purchased this course for themselves, share in the comments how they do it, that they are satisfied, maybe one of you has your own basic pattern for the basis of men's trousers.

But very often it happens that you need to sew something very quickly and simply, "in haste", as they say. For example, how we sewed a skirt with an elastic band *. In order for us to be able to sew men's trousers with an elastic band for giving, for the beach, for relaxing, something simple and practical for relaxing and for home in an hour, we need a basic pattern-the basis of men's trousers.

men's trousers "in a hurry" based on the basic pattern of men's trousers

So, today we will figure out how to cut and sew homemade men's trousers using a simplified technology based on a pattern of classic trousers. Our trousers will be in a simplified cut without a side seam and with an elastic band.

basic pattern the basis of men's trousers

Here is the basic base of the trousers. The front and green back halves of the trousers are outlined in red, but this pattern is very difficult to sew, so this pattern does not suit us now. Now I will show you how to make a pattern for an easy version of trousers based on this pattern. From the base pattern, we re-shoot the front and back halves of the trousers.

lay out the pattern on the fabric

from the base base we reshoot the pattern of the back and front panel

Since we have mock-up fabric and I don’t see the point in buying two lengths for such a lesson, and if we lay out the patterns on the fabric, it’s not enough for us, so I slightly changed the canvas by hemming the missing piece of fabric where I didn’t get it for laying out the pattern, see photo When you will buy fabric, see in advance how much you need it - one or two lengths of fabric.

the missing piece of fabric for the tutorial is just added

After that, we connect both parts of the pattern so that they match along the line of the bottom of the trousers, see photo

along the bottom line, the details of the pattern must match

After the bottom is leveled, it is necessary to equalize along the top line, the patterns along the hip line are slightly one on top of the other, see photo, we will add this distance later
in the meantime, you need to fix the pattern on the fabric (pin with pins)

align the pattern along the top line and impose them along the hip line

Since our trousers will be elasticated, and we slightly removed the volume along the hip line (so that there is not a very large width along the side seam line when combining the two parts of the pattern), we need to return this volume and add more to this.

this is what the fabric pattern looks like

To do this, we need to make a cut along the ironing line on a paper pattern and push the pattern to such a width that takes into account what we lost when applying the pattern and for additional freedom, to use an elastic band, add the width as desired, look at the photo, how much did I spread the pattern.

we cut along the line of the zipper the pattern of the front panel

we move the pattern to the required width along the bottom line and along the top line

Along the bottom line, you can also push wider. When you buy fabric, see in advance how much you need - one or two lengths of fabric.

In the same way, it is necessary to open the back half of the trousers: arbitrarily, approximately in the center, we cut the pattern and push it apart, fix it with pins on the fabric, so that it is convenient to cut. We do not push it very much, since too wide loose trousers will also not look very good.

open the back half of the trousers in the same way as the front

It remains for us to cut out one detail (the fabric is folded twice), sew one step seam and in the middle, and we will be ready to assemble the top with an elastic band and trousers in an hour! For those who love pockets, you can make a patch pocket**. Now we need to add 4 cm along the top line so that we can sweep and insert the elastic.

add 4 cm along the top line in order to draw a hem and thread an elastic band

When cutting, pay attention to this area - leave a little more seam allowance in this place so that it is also freer there.

when cutting, pay attention to this area

We swept one and the second step seam, now you will see how our trousers will look, of course, it’s best to scribble right away and not sweep, but it’s still inconvenient for me, because the equipment is turned off, but I want to show you the principle, so I sweep.

And you need to mark with a notch where the front part is, then set aside 6 cm for the elastic band, tuck it in half and iron it. The elastic can be inserted with a pin or a special rubber band, it is very simple and convenient to use.

rubber bander

we make a hem for an elastic band and thread an elastic band

These trousers are very comfortable - one crotch seam and one medium, overlock, elastic and trousers are ready! These are the trousers for home and leisure we got!

Valentina Nivina Alexander Nivin

Many needlewomen would like to sew trousers for their relatives and beloved men: husband, brother or son. And if it was only a pattern, then in this article we will tell you how to build a drawing basic pattern of men's trousers, i.e. the basics of men's trousers.

This pattern can be used as a basis for modeling a variety of trouser styles. By changing the length, width or configuration of the side and step sections, as well as using other simple tricks, you can create the necessary patterns. This classic suit trousers patterns And sweatpants patterns, work pants patterns And beach shorts patterns etc.

Building patterns of men's trousers not as difficult a matter as some think or as it might seem at first glance.

The main thing, take accurate measurements, follow all the recommendations of this instruction and the pattern for a specific figure is ready.

As an example, we use the measurements of our conditional client, and you take measurements from the figure of your man and, when constructing a pattern of trousers, operate with your numbers.

We need the following measures:

Construction of a drawing of a pattern of the front half of the trousers.

On the left side of the sheet of paper we draw a vertical line, on which we set aside the length of the trousers (db) 105 cm and put points T and H. From these points to the right horizontally we draw straight lines of arbitrary length.

Seat height.

From the point T down we set aside 27 cm - this is the height of the seat according to the measure (Vs) and set the point W, from which we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length to the right.

Knee line.

From the point T we set aside 58 cm down (the length to the knee according to the measure (Dbk) and set the point K, from which we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length to the right.

Hip line.

From point W upwards, set aside 1/3 of the seat height (Sc) and set point B, from which we also draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length to the right.

SB = Sun: 3 = 27: 3 = 9 cm.

And you substitute your values ​​into the formula.

The width of the front half of the trousers along the step line. From the W point to the right, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the hips (Sb) plus 5 cm and set the W1 point:

The fold line of the front half of the trousers.

We divide the segment ШШ1 in half, denote the division point with the letter Ш2 and draw a vertical line through this point. The intersection with the lines of the waist, hips, knee and bottom is denoted respectively T1, B1, K1, H1. Line T1H1 determines the position of the fold; the arrow of the front half of the trousers is ironed along it.

The middle section of the front half of the trousers (bow line).

From W1 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the hips (Sb) plus 0.3 cm and set the point W3:

From point Ш3 we draw a vertical upwards, the intersection with the lines of the waist and hips is denoted by the letters T2 and B2, respectively.

From the point Ш3 up vertically, we set aside the value of the segment Ш1Ш3 and set the point Ш4. This can be done with a compass.

Ш3Ш4 = Ш1Ш3 = 5.3 cm. You operate with your numbers.

We connect W4 and W1 with an auxiliary dashed line, divide it into three equal parts, lay it down at a right angle of 0.3 cm from the lower division point. We denote this point with the number 1 and connect it with a smooth line with points B2 and W1. See the picture below.

The upper section of the front half of the trousers (waistline).

From T2 down we set aside 1 cm and set the point T3. From the point T2 to the left, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the waist (St) plus 2 cm and set the point T4:

T2T4 \u003d St: 2 + 2 cm \u003d 42: 2 + 2 \u003d 23 cm.

We connect point T4 with point T3 with a dotted line.

The tuck in the front half of the trousers.

Line T1H1 determines the position of the fold; the arrow of the front half of the trousers is ironed along it. At point T1, a tuck or fold is constructed, depending on the model. We will build a tuck, and you are guided by your tasks.

Set aside 1 cm from T1 to the left and right and put points T5 and T6. From T1 down we set aside the length of the tuck 8 cm, designate this point with the number 8 and connect it with points T5 and T6.

With the help of a compass, we align the sides of the tuck on the smaller side, and draw a waist line from point T4, through the ends of the tuck to point T3.

The width of the front half of the trousers along the knee line.

From K1 to the left and to the right, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the knee (according to the measure of Sk) plus 2 cm and set the points K2 and K3:

K1K2 \u003d K1K3 \u003d Sk: 2 + 2 cm \u003d 19: 2 + 2 \u003d 11.5 cm.

Draw vertical lines down from points K2 and K3 until they intersect with the bottom line and set points H2 and H3.

Note: The width of the trousers along the lines of the knee and bottom may be different. We are building trouser base pattern, which we will use later. for modeling various styles of trousers. If you do not plan to use this template in the future, you can immediately set the necessary parameters for the width of the trousers on this drawing.

The bottom line of the front half of the trousers. We set aside 1 cm from point H1 upwards and, connecting this point with points H2 and H3, we draw the bottom line of the front half of men's trousers.

Side cut of the front half of the trousers. We make a side cut using a pattern. The side line of the front half of the trousers smoothly runs from point T4, through points B and W to point K2, and then in a straight line from K2 to H2. See the picture below.

Step cut of the front half of the trousers. We connect the points K3 and Sh1 with an auxiliary dashed line, divide it in half, from the division point to the left at a right angle we set aside 0.3 cm. We connect the points Sh1, 0.3 and K3 with a smooth line.

Pocket on the front half of trousers. As an example, we will build two types of pockets on the front half of the trousers.

The first kind of pocket. From the point T4 we set aside 5 cm to the right and down -15 cm. We connect the points with a straight line. This is a classic pocket.

Second type of pocket: From the point T4 we set aside 8 cm down and connect it with a smooth line to the point T6. These pockets are often used in sportswear. This line is shown as a dotted line in the figure below.

All figures are given as an example only.

Important, so that the size of the entrance to the pocket ensures the free passage of the hand, this is approximately 13 - 16 cm.

The construction of the front half of men's trousers is completed.

Construction of a drawing of a pattern for the back half of the trousers.

Let's start building the back half of men's trousers. I draw your attention to the fact that when building the back half, we will use the same letters as when building the front half. Be careful!

To build a drawing of the back half of the trousers, we extend the lines of the waist, hips, step, knee and bottom, as shown in the figure below.

On the right side we draw a vertical line, we denote the intersection points, respectively, T, B, W, K and H.

The width of the back half of the trousers along the step line. From the W point to the left, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the hips (Sb) plus 5 cm and set the W1 point:

ШШ1 \u003d Sat: 2 + 5 cm \u003d 50: 2 + 5 \u003d 30 cm.

The fold line of the back half of the trousers.

We divide the segment ШШ1 in half, denote the division point with the letter Ш2 and draw a vertical line through this point. The intersection of this line with the lines of the waist, hips, knee and bottom is denoted respectively T1, B1, K1, H1.

Auxiliary lines of the middle cut of the back half of the trousers.

From the point W1 to the right, set aside 1/10 measurements of the half-girth of the hips (Sb) plus 0.3 cm and set the point W3:

W1W3 \u003d Sat: 10 + 0.3 cm \u003d 50: 10 + 0.3 \u003d 5.3 cm.

Draw a vertical line from point W3. The intersection with the lines of the waist and hips is denoted by the letters T2 and B2.

Segment T2T1, divide into three equal parts. The right division point is denoted by the letter T3. From point T3 we draw a vertical line upwards, on which we set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the hips (Sb) minus 1.5 cm and set point T4:

T3T4 \u003d Sat: 10 - 1.5 cm \u003d 50:10 - 1.5 \u003d 3.5 cm.

We connect points T4 and W3 with a dotted line. The intersection with the line of the hips is denoted by the letter B3.

From the point Ш3 along the bisector of the angle, set aside 1/20 of the semicircumference of the hips (Сб) and set the point Ш4:

W3W4 \u003d Sat: 20 \u003d 50: 20 \u003d 2.5 cm.

Expansion along the step line of the back half.

From the point W1 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the hips (Sb) plus 2.3 cm and set the point W5:

W1W5 \u003d Sat: 10 + 2.3 cm \u003d 50: 10 + 2.3 \u003d 7.3 cm.

Upper section (waistline) of the back half of the trousers.

We continue the T2T waistline with a dotted line to the right. From point T4 we make a notch on this line with a radius equal to 1/2 of the half-circumference of the waist (St) plus 3 cm and put point T5:

T4T5 \u003d St: 2 + 3 cm \u003d 42: 2 + 3 \u003d 24 cm.

Back tuck at trousers.

We connect the points T4 and T5 with a straight line and divide the segment T4T5 in half, set the point T6, from which we lay down the length of the tuck 12 cm down at a right angle. From the point T6 to the left and right we set aside 1.5 cm, put the points T7 and T8, these points we connect with point 12 and get a tuck in the back half of the trousers.

The width along the hip line of the back half of the trousers.

From point B3 to the right on the continuation of the line of the hips, we set aside 27.3 cm. We obtain this value as a result of the following calculations. Semi-circumference of the hips (Sat) plus 2 cm for a loose fit and minus the width of the front half of the trousers along the hip line (we measure between points BB2 according to the drawing of the front half of the trousers). We put point B4.

B3B4 \u003d Sat + 2 cm - 24.7 cm (width of the front half)\u003d 50 + 2 - 24.7 \u003d 27.3 cm.

The width of the trousers along the knee line of the back half of the trousers.

From K1 to the left and to the right, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the knee (SK) plus 3.5 cm and set the points K2 and K3:

K1K2 \u003d K1K3 \u003d Sk + 3.5 cm \u003d 19: 2 + 3.5 \u003d 13 cm.

From points K2 and K3 we draw straight lines down to the intersection with the bottom line and set points H2 and H3.

The bottom line of the back half of the trousers.

Set aside 1 cm from H1 down and connect with points H2 and H3.

Side cut of the back half of the trousers.

We connect points T5, B4 and K2 with a smooth line. Further down, the side cut line goes in a straight line from point K2 to point H3.

Step cut of the back half of the trousers.

We connect points K3 and Ш5 with an auxiliary dotted line. From K3 up we set aside the value of the segment K3 Sh1 (from the drawing of the front half of the trousers) minus 1 cm and put the point Ш6. We divide the dotted line between points K3 and W6 in half, from the division point to the right at a right angle we set aside 0.6 cm.

We connect points Ш6, 0.6, K3 with a smooth line.

The middle section of the back half of the trousers.

We connect points T4, B3, W4 and W6 with a smooth line, thereby completing the construction of the back half of the trousers.

Rice. thirty Cut details

This pattern can be used as a basis for modeling a variety of trouser styles. By changing the width of the bottom or the configuration of the side and step sections, as well as using other simple tricks, you can achieve the desired result.

Before cutting, do not forget to check the pattern for the main parameters and only after that proceed with the layout on the fabric, observing the direction of the grain thread indicated on the cut details.

After cutting (before basting), for a good fit of the trousers on the figure, it is necessary to pull off the sections between points B3, W6 and W6 0.6 with an iron.

We will post the tricks of the processing technology for men's trousers in subsequent articles.