In order to make a high-quality perm, first of all, you need to understand what effect the hair is exposed to during this procedure. If you look at the cut straight hair, then we will see that it has the shape of a circle, and curly hair- oval shape. What follows from this?

To curl straight hair, you need to change the shape of its section while simultaneously twisting it along the axis. When hair is wrapped in curlers or bobbins, it bends and changes its shape. In this case, the internal bonds of keratin (the structural protein of the hair) are displaced, but not torn, and the curling is preserved until the next hair wash.

Front perm the keratin scales of the surface layer of the hair are tightly closed. But under the influence chemical composition the bonds inside the hair disintegrate, the protein fibers are damaged, the scales open, and at this moment the hair, when twisted on bobbins of different configurations, can be given any shape. The break of molecular bonds, ideally, should be up to 30%, then the hair will become stringy and viscous.

The next step is to stabilize (fix) the new hair shape. For this, a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide is used. At this moment, the swelling of the hair stops, and they begin to return to their natural state: the old bonds are restored inside the hair, the keratin acquires its original strength and elasticity, the scales close. This stage should be given great importance: if the fixation is done incorrectly, then the curl will turn out to be fragile. During perm hair is physically and chemically affected at the same time. When twisted on a bobbin, the hair is pulled, in addition, each layer of hair presses on the underlying one.

Thus, two forces act on the hair - tension and pressure. As the temperature rises during curling, the hair's ability to resist changing shape decreases, therefore, during the curling process, a warming cap is used, which retains the natural heat of the human body.

Each subsequent perm will look less beautiful than the previous one, as chemicals destroy the hair keratin, which is why a new substance is formed in the hair - meta-keratin, which already reacts differently to the perm solution. There may come a time when your hair just stops frizzing and you have to wait a while for it to grow back.

Hair curling tools.

If you decide to do perm at home, then you will need a sufficient amount of bobbins of various shapes and diameter - from 50 to 80 pieces. They do not have metal parts, they are attached with rubber bands. Also for perm at home you can use plastic curlers, which are also fixed with an elastic band or a clip. Peignoir(a special cover made of waterproof fabric) will help you keep your clothes tidy and protective gloves save hands and nails from aggressive solution. Among other things, you will need:

• plastic comb-ponytail,
• curling compound and fixative,
• insulating cap,
• a bowl and a sponge for the retainer,
• preparation for neutralization and stabilization,
• biological fixer.

Please note that preparations of the same company / brand should be used during curling. All of this you can buy in a specialized store.

Perm formulations

Almost all perm lotions are created on the basis of thioorganic compounds and their derivatives - they make it possible to influence the shape of the hair and change it even at normal body temperature. A very important characteristic of the drug is its pH. The higher it is, the more active the effect of the drug on the hair and the greater the likelihood of complete destruction of bonds and dissolution of hair keratin. What curling compounds are used today?

Alkaline permanent (from lat.permaneo - stay, continue) is used to curl healthy and natural hair... The disadvantage of an alkaline permanent is that it emits harmful hydrogen sulfide vapors, which can cause various side effects in a person - headache, malaise, dermatitis (skin inflammation).

Acid-balanced permanent used for naturally weak, tired, highly colored hair. This composition does not contain strong alkalis and is less harmful. Its main component is glyceryl monothioglycolate. This composition begins to act only after it is mixed with the activator (it is included in the kit, both liquids must be mixed before use, since the finished mixture cannot be stored), while a chemical reaction occurs with a large release of heat, and the composition warms up to 40 degrees C. The peculiarity of the acid composition is that due to the small swelling of the hair, the hairstyle is less afraid of moisture and the influence of the weather, it looks more natural. The disadvantage is that the drug is less persistent, the perm does not last very long.

Mild Alkaline Permanent - a gentle solution, when applied, the hair also receives a protein treatment course, due to which the structure of the hair is improved, and the curling is more durable. Odorless. Disadvantage - often causes allergies.

Gel Permanent - used for curling the roots of short hair, for example, curling the temporal zones in men's short haircuts... To do this, use a comb, not bobbins.

Foamy permanent - the most harmless preparation for curling hair. It is so soft that as a result, the hair gains volume with little or no frizz. As mentioned above, a large value at perm allotted retainers which have oxidizing properties. Such preparations necessarily contain hydrogen peroxide, but not more than 3%. The clamps perform the final operation in the hair curling procedure, stabilize the formed curl, and return the internal structure of the hair to its previous state. Retainers can be of the following type and consistency:

• concentrated fixatives(they are diluted with water in a one-to-one ratio, their packaging has the inscription "1 + 1"),
• non-concentrated fixative(ready to eat),
• foam solution(it is foamed with a sponge and applied to the hair, while it must be remembered that in in this case It is the foam that "works"),
• non-foamy solution(it is applied from the spout of the bottle separately to each bobbin).

Perm stages

Ideally, "chemistry" is best done in a hairdressing salon with an experienced master, but if you want to perm yourself, then strictly follow the instructions. First of all, you need to carefully examine the scalp and find out if there are any inflammations, scratches or abrasions on the scalp. If there is, then with perm wait until the skin heals. Perm should be performed in the following sequence:

1. Wash hair with shampoo, squeeze out moisture and dry with a towel.
2. Determine the application method chemical preparation on the hair.
3. Wind your hair on bobbins.
4. Saturate hair with chemical composition.
5. Put on an insulating cap (option: cover your head with polyethylene, wrap it in a towel).
6. Record the start time of exposure by the clock.
7. Check the quality of the curl.
8. Wash off the preparation, without removing the bobbins, with running warm water for 5-7 minutes.
9. Apply the fixative for the first time for 5-8 minutes.
10. Remove the bobbins.
11. Apply the fixative a second time for 5 minutes.
12. Wash off the retainer with running water, squeeze out the water.
13. Rinse hair with acidic composition to neutralize fixer.
14. Dry your hair with a towel.
15. Apply a medicinal product to restore the hair structure.

When performing these procedures, there are several important points that you should definitely pay attention to and in no case neglect them.

Determination of the condition of hair and scalp before curling

As mentioned above, if there is any damage to the skin on the head, perm better to transfer. It is also necessary to check if you have an allergic reaction to the drugs. It manifests itself most quickly on the thin, delicate skin behind the auricle. To check, you need to apply the composition with a cotton swab to the skin and after 10-15 minutes it will be clear whether there is an allergy or not (redness, rash, itching may appear).

You should be especially careful with blonded (bleached) hair. If they do not burst after immersion in curling lotion, but lose the original appearance, the composition must be diluted with water in a one-to-one ratio.

Choosing a curling compound

It is very important to assess the condition of the hair and do right choice the appropriate drug, since the degree of effect of the various drugs differs from each other. First of all, you need to determine hair structure .

Recall that hair can be soft, medium, hard.

How to determine this?

If your hair is soft and thin to the touch, it means you have soft hair, if it is coarse and thick, it means hard, and if neither, then you have normal hair. Then it is determined hair quality - thin, thick or normal. As a rule, hair structure and hair quality are closely related. If you have soft hair, then it is fine. Such hair is most often found in blondes, and in brunettes, hair is likely to be thick and thick. It is also very important type of previous hair treatment - dyed, discolored, with residues of permanent, untreated. The fact is that the way of the previous hair treatment increases their porosity, it can also increase under the influence of sunlight, salt water, hot air. In these cases, it is necessary to select the optimal chemical composition and remedy, and in case of severe damage to the hair structure, it is better to carry out preliminary treatment. There are several rules for permanent hair damage:

• when curling the roots that have grown after a permanent, one should try not to apply the composition to previously curled hair;
• with highly bleached hair and with a large percentage of highlighted (partially colored) strands, it is imperative to use preparations to protect the hair, which even out the structure of colored and split hair and ensures uniformity perm... Keep in mind that every company that produces formulations for perm, offers, as a rule, several types of drugs:
• for healthy, previously not exposed to chemical treatment, difficult hair,
• for normal hair,
• for porous hair previously exposed to oxidizing agents,
• for blonded and highlighted hair.

Having chosen the composition, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the instructions for use, since differences can be not only in drugs from different companies, but also in the next generation of the composition of the same company.

Hair wash

There is a rule: perm. performed only on clean hair! Therefore, be sure to wash them before curling, regardless of the last time you did it. This will slightly expose the flakes, which will accelerate the penetration of the curler into the hair. The hair is washed once, and the scalp does not need to be massaged in order to retain the fat layer on it, which will protect it from excessive exposure to acids and alkalis. After blotting your hair with a towel, comb it, but you should not use a hair brush either before or after washing, so as not to damage the cuticle (the top layer of the hair).

Curling hair on bobbins

Depending on the type of hair, bobbins are chosen. If the hair is stiff and elastic, then it is wrapped in thin strands on large bobbins. Medium-elastic hair is best rolled with medium-sized curlers. Thin hair wound on small bobbins, separating very thin strands. In this case, the strands must be separated with zigzag partings so that clear parting lines do not form, and the bobbins must be placed in checkerboard... It must be borne in mind that the thickness and width of the strand must correspond to the thickness and length of the bobbin. The process of winding strands of hair on a bobbin is as follows: the strands are separated from each other with a comb-tail, combed, pulled perpendicular to the head and wound on the bobbins. Make sure that the ends of the strands are carefully wound and do not puff up, do not stand out from the general mass. The direction of curling the hair depends on:

1. from the direction of hair growth (if this is not taken into account, then the hair can be broken at the root),
2. from the future hairstyle (it is better to place the bobbins in the direction in which the hair will lie in the future),
3. from a haircut, which can be emphasized using curlers of different diameters.

The angle of the brace of the strand can be different: the higher the strand is shifted relative to its base, the more magnificent it will be later. If volume at the roots is not required, then the bobbin is placed as low as possible to the base of the strand. The securing elastic should not be tight, pressed into the hair or close to the roots, so that there are no kinks that can lead to hair breakage. The elastic can be at the top of the curler or crosswise. You can also use hairpins - wood or plastic - to secure your hair.

Hair curling techniques

Direct method. The hair is first moistened with the composition, and then wrapped: first from the lower part of the back of the head, since this is the coldest zone and the healthiest hair grows there. To curl evenly, the hair must be curled very quickly. They are pre-moistened in the composition, then, after winding, they are impregnated with it two more times. Indirect method. Wet hair is twisted on curlers, and then moistened with a perming solution, and as it dries, it is moistened with a spray bottle. Wrapping is done in any sequence. This method is most preferable, as damp hair absorbs the solution faster and retains its original structure better. Mixed method. It is used for hair longer than 20 cm. Before winding it up, only the ends of the hair should be moistened, 2/3 back from the roots. Thus, the bobbins are wound all over the head, and then all the hair is wetted. By the way the bobbins are located on the head, the curling is divided into horizontal and vertical. At horizontal way the hair is wound on a bobbin located horizontally in relation to the base of the strand, from the end of the strand to its base. The disadvantage of this method is that a high-quality curl is obtained only at the first revolutions of the bobbin, then it weakens due to an increase in the diameter of the bobbin with each revolution. At vertical way the hair is wound in the reverse order - from the hair roots to their ends - and the bobbin is placed vertically on the head. The main advantage of this curl is that the curl is uniform over the entire length of the strand. But at the same time, the hair does not come into contact with the head and there is not always enough internal warmth for the curling process. Another note: if the hair has been repeatedly curled and the ends of the hair are completely lifeless, then you can wrap the ends of the hair in paper. In this case, the ends will not suffer as much.

Applying the curling compound

When all the hair is wrapped around the bobbins, the composition is applied to each bobbin from above and below with a brush. This should be done quickly and evenly. Cannot be applied very a large number of composition immediately, since the upper layers of the hair, having absorbed too much moisture, will swell and will not let the composition into the lower layers, which will remain uncurled, in addition, the composition may begin to drain, which is not always pleasant. The first time you need to apply the composition very sparsely. The second time, you can apply a little more. And the third time it is applied until the liquid ceases to be absorbed. In this case, you cannot save the composition or the fixative, since the hair must be soaked very well. Before applying the composition, the scalp along the hairline must be lubricated protective cream, and tie a napkin rolled up with a tourniquet around the head. After impregnating the hair with the composition, the tourniquet is removed. After the hair is evenly moistened, a warming cap is very carefully put on the head, trying not to move the bobbins. To preserve heat, the cap must be tightly fastened, otherwise the curling process will be lengthened.

Holding time

The exposure time is always individual, on average, from 10 to 30 minutes, since it depends on the structure of the hair and the desire to have a curl of one or another elasticity. To determine it, it is necessary during the curling process to untwist the strands on different sites heads. (It is important not to forget to twist the strands back!) The sign of a good curl is a bouncy and damp curl. After rinsing and fixing, the degree of curling of the hair will increase a little more, and if the exposure time is too short, the curl will not have time to form completely and will be short-lived; if the curling composition is used for too long, the hair can be severely damaged.

Rinsing

Without removing the bobbins, you must rinse your hair very thoroughly under the shower. The rinsing time depends on the length of the hair. So hair up to 10 cm long is washed for at least 1 minute, 10-20 cm - 2 minutes or more, and hair longer than 20 cm must be washed for at least 3 minutes.

Fixation

Outcome perm depends on the correct fixation, which restores the damaged hair structure. If the fixation is performed superficially, the molecular bonds of the hair will remain partially split and the hair will be inelastic. After thoroughly rinsing the hair and blotting it with a towel, apply the fixative.

The holding time is determined according to the following table:

After applying the retainer and the required exposure time, the bobbins are carefully removed, trying not to delay the curl. Then the fixative is applied again. After re-fixing, the hair is thoroughly washed and treated with a preparation to neutralize and stabilize.

At the final stage, a biological fixer is applied, which instantly strengthens the keratin of the hair, makes the hair elastic, and affects the duration of its preservation. perm and the elasticity of the curls. After thoroughly rinsing the hair after fixing, you need to blot it with a towel and evenly apply the preparation on them. After 3 minutes, the hair is thoroughly rinsed again. Afterwards, you can use a conditioner balm that will restore the natural pH of the hair and scalp and make combing easier.

Hair care after perm

For the keratin of the hair to strengthen, at least 48 hours must pass. Therefore, it is advisable not to dry your hair during this time, not to style it with a hairdryer, not to wind it on curlers. For hair care with perm there are rules:

• It is necessary to wash your hair only with special shampoos, also use special hair balms with perm.
• If the hair is very dry, intensive treatment should be carried out, which will restore the hair structure: you can use medicinal products, masks for weakened hair. The course of treatment is at least 10 sessions.
• After every 3-4 shampoos, it is advisable to use medications, and for long hair need a preparation for the ends of the hair, because they will become drier after curling.
• To keep the "chemistry" as long as possible, you must not pull the hair out in a wet state, twist it with a towel. You can comb them only with a rare comb, and immediately shape them with your hands. Do not go to bed with a wet head.
• It is necessary to protect hair from exposure to direct sunlight, salt and cold water, and in the summer to protect them with special preparations with ultraviolet protection.
• Laying is done in a more gentle way. It is important not to dry your hair or injure it with fleece. For styling, use a nourishing foam balm.

And after all these manipulations, you can finally enjoy the result. The efforts of a home hairdresser will not be wasted: with perm morning styling is facilitated, because the hair has become more pliable and soft, it keeps its shape better and makes it possible to try many of the most different options hairstyles.

All modern preparations intended for perming hair, must meet several important requirements:

1. ensure persistent and long-term preservation of curls - for at least three months.
2. Do not affect the natural color of the hair.
3. Contain in its composition special substances designed to ensure proper wetting and saturation of the strands.
4. Have a slight odor of perfumery and do not cause allergic reactions.
5. Easy to wash off.

REFERENCE: One of the most important characteristics inherent in perm formulations is the pH level.

The higher its value, the more active it has on the state of the hair structure, and, therefore, to a greater extent contributes to the destruction of keratin.

Depending on its composition and the nature of the impact on the hair, distinguish between the following types of compositions for perming hair:

• alkaline permanent;
• acid-balanced permanent;
• soft alkaline permanent;
• gel-like agent;
• foamy permanent.

For each of the listed types are characterized by their individual characteristics, Advantages and disadvantages.

Pros and cons of each type of drug

Alkaline permanent is classic version means for a perm for curls of any type. Its basis is thioglycolic acid. Depending on the amount of ammonia content, the pH level of such formulations can vary from 8.5 to 9.5.

Alkaline Permanents are used for exceptionally healthy hair... The main advantage of this composition is creating elastic curls that do not lose their appearance over a long period of time.

However, such drugs have a number of significant disadvantages:

1. sharp and bad smell resulting from substances such as hydrogen sulfide and mercaptan.
2. Aggressive effect on the hair structure - thinning and weakening it.

Acid-balanced permanents based on glyceryl monothioglycolate. They begin to act only after mixing with the activator - as a result of this, a chemical reaction occurs, in which a significant amount of heat begins to be released and the composition heats up to about 40 degrees and, therefore, the process of curling curls is significantly accelerated.

Among the main advantages inherent in this type of composition, it should be noted:

• pH level as close to natural as possible - from 5 to 7;
• softer and more gentle action compared to alkaline versions;
• the possibility of use for weakened, as well as often exposed to dyeing hair;
• getting a beautiful and lasting result.

The disadvantage of acid-balanced permanents is their slow action, which makes the procedure take a long time.

Mild Alkaline Permanent based on amino acids has the following advantages:

1. the absence of an unpleasant pungent odor and harm to the respiratory system;
2. soft and gentle effect;
3. the most natural result.

The disadvantages of this type include the low stability of the result, as well as the occurrence of allergic reactions in the presence of individual intolerance to the components.

Permanent product with a gel-like texture, is widely used in cases when it is necessary to curl beautifully overgrown roots.

note This product is the best option for short hair.

The advantages of this type of perm include:

• maximum ease of use - it is enough to squeeze out the required amount of the product from the tube and distribute it evenly over the hairline with a brush.
• Use a comb instead of bobbins to create curls in the desired shape.
• Lack of aggressive components in the composition.

This tool has no disadvantages.

The best remedies for the procedure

Many famous manufacturers offer high quality perm products that can be successfully used both in professional hairdressing salons and at home. Consider which of the options are the most preferable.

Perm technology.

Conclusion

Modern formulations for perming hair have a delicate composition and do not destroy their structure... The assortment of many manufacturers includes high-quality compositions that every lady can even be used at home... Choose the best option and charm with flirty curls!

Perm hair is the perfect way to radically change your appearance and give your hair unimaginable volume.

Preparing for the procedure

To make your hair curl safe, prepare your strands for the upcoming procedure. The preparation consists of six important steps.

Stage 1. Assessment of the hair structure (elasticity, strength, type, density). It is carried out in order to choose the type of curling.

• For thick hair, you will need the strongest fixing agent, since it is very difficult to curl them;
• Thin rare strands curl easily - you need to choose a weaker preparation for them;
• Hair with low elasticity can stretch too far and fail to return to its original appearance. Chemistry is contraindicated for them;
• Too dry hair should also not be twisted - it will tear and break.

Stage 2. Analysis of the scalp. For wounds, injuries and diseases associated with the scalp, it is better to forget about perming.

Stage 3. Test for sensitivity. To carry it out, soak a cotton sponge with a curling compound and lubricate the area behind the ear with it. Wait 10 minutes. If there is no redness, rashes, irritation, go to the curling. If you have problems, quickly rub your skin with hydrogen peroxide. "Chemistry" is contraindicated for you.

Step 4. Checking the hair for the retainer. This is necessary in order to determine the dose and concentration of the drug. Take a small strand, moisten it with the preparation and leave it on for 5 minutes. Check hair for break. If it remains strong, the strands can be curled. If it looks like tow and breaks easily, make the solution weaker.

Stage 5. Shampooing. The shampoo will loosen the flakes and improve the result.

Stage 6. Hair cutting. It can be done before or after curling to freshen ends and shape.

Important! Before the procedure, do not forget to remove gold jewelry and glasses, and protect your skin from chemicals.

Types of "chemistry" of hair

Modern perm can be divided into types by the chemical agent applied to the strands.

Neutral

This gentle perm is considered universal as it is suitable for everyone. The curl is strong and elastic, the result lasts from 3 to 6 months and directly depends on the structure of the hair.

Acidic

A special fixative based on thioglycolic acid penetrates into the hair, but does not spoil its structure, as it is considered gentle. As a result, we get a rather hard curl - it lasts for one month. For thin and soft strands, this method is not suitable - they will lose their shape and stretch at the roots. The same applies to girls with sensitive skin types and dry hair.

Alkaline

With an alkaline type of curling, the retainer penetrates and reveals the scales. The result is more permanent - it will last on the hair for about 90 days. It gives bouncy curls, looks natural, and acts much softer than the previous version. But on heavy, hard strands, the result will not be lasting - after about a month, the curling will lose its shape. The cost is cheaper than acid perm.

Amino acid

The fixative contains amino acids and proteins that heal and nourish the hair. Amino acid "chemistry" does not harm the health of the strands. Curls look natural, but, alas, short-lived. This "chemistry" is not suitable for tight and long strands - under such a heavy weight, curls will quickly develop.

Biowave

You will not find aggressive components in the composition. They are replaced by another agent similar to the hair molecule. Biowave gives a beautiful natural shine and a very long-lasting result.

Basal

This is an ideal way to make your hair splendid by fixing the volume for several weeks, or even months at once (it all depends on the fixative). Also, root chemistry is suitable for those whose hair has previously been permed, but managed to grow back.

Silk

This preparation contains silk proteins. They take care of the hair and improve its structure. Even damaged hair becomes healthier. The curl comes out very soft and lasts up to six months. The price is much more expensive than other options.

American

It is in great demand among modern women of fashion. Allows you to get an elastic and large curl. With this type of curling, curlers are needed especially. large sizes Is Olivia Garden. They are attached to each other with sharp teeth. Curlers of this type do not leave creases and give lush curls.

Small or African

Recommended for women with thin and thin hair. It is often performed on the hair. middle length... But we advise especially courageous ladies to take a chance - African chemistry for short hair will definitely help you with this. The silhouette will be spherical, and the volume will be incredible! The only drawback is that it will be very difficult to take care of your hair, and it is almost impossible to make a new style. For "chemistry" in the Afro-style, either papillots or small spirals are needed. This process will take about 5 hours, you can only do it in the salon.

Japanese

It is also called lipid protein (LC2). Compared to the previous one, the Japanese one lasts longer and provides more benefits. It is completely safe due to its neutral ph and normalizes the moisture content of too dry hair. With the help of such a curling, you can get elastic and voluminous curls that will last from 2 to 6 months.

Carving

Perm for medium, short (no more than 20 cm) and sparse strands. Makes hair fuller, curl - soft and natural. Visually raises hair at the roots, and also refreshes the image. Carving works only with the surface of the hair, without harming it, as in the classic type. If your hair is thick, use large bobbins - large curls will help create a great look.

Vertical

Spiral or vertical "chemistry" is the best way for a long and thick braid that cannot be wound horizontally. In this case, the bobbins are placed vertically (from the root to the ends), and the strand is twisted in a spiral. A few words about curlers! For the procedure, you need long, tapered bobbins with holes through which the strands are pulled. Ideally, they should be made of plastic or wood. This shape allows you to curl the curl evenly.

On vertical curls, the effect of wet hair looks great. It is also convenient in that the growing roots can be easily twisted. The composition can be anything - it depends on how long you want to go with your new hairstyle. In addition, the health of the strands depends on the drug. After the procedure, they will be either weak and dull, or shiny and lively.

Electric curling

It can only be used on healthy hair and only in proven salons. First, the strands are moistened, then twisted on bobbins and connected to the apparatus (exposure time and temperature are regulated). The result of the procedure will be beautiful lungs curls.

Who is not allowed to do "chemistry"?

Perm is prohibited in the following cases:

• Pregnancy;
• Lactation;
• Very dry, fine and damaged hair;
• Propensity to allergies (first you need to do an allergic test);
• Pre-staining with basma or henna;
• Acute illness;
• Taking medications.

Hair care after "chemistry"

After a perm, hair needs care. To do this, follow a few simple rules.

• Rule 1. To wash your hair, you need a special shampoo for curled hair.
• Rule 2. Moisturize your hair using special masks. They should contain panthenol, collagen, silk proteins or keratins.
• Rule 3. As home remedies, you can safely use an infusion of rye bread crusts (pour 1 liter of boiling water over 300 grams of bread and leave in a thermos for 5 hours), nettle or hops. A variety of oils (almond, peach, burdock) can also come in handy. They need to be slightly warmed up.
• Rule 4. Take fish oil.
• Rule 5. Cut the ends regularly and lubricate them with a special cream.
• Rule 6. Comb with a wide-toothed comb - it does not injure the strands.
• Rule 7. For several days after curling, do not wash your hair and subject the strands to heat treatment.
• Rule 8. Protect your hair from hot sunlight.
• Rule 9. Do not twist the washed hair, but gently blot it.
• Rule 10. Do not sleep with a wet head.

Many owners of straight, lacking volume of hair dream of having luxurious curls. Modern perm hair allows every girl to make this dream come true. A large selection of strand curling techniques and chemical compositions will allow each of you to determine the most suitable type of curling.

Over the past few years, many new curling technologies and formulations have appeared, with the help of which it is possible to create beautiful large curls or small curls for several months. All types of curling that are offered today in salons can be roughly divided into two types - classic and light (gentle).

The main advantage of curling with the use of gentle formulations is that the drugs used do not harm the hair. They allow you to create curls different forms and sizes, providing a gentle effect and without destroying the hair structure. But at the same time, modern hair chemistry has a significant drawback - a short-lived effect. After light curling, the curls last for an average of 2-3 months.

Despite the emergence of gentle drugs, classical chemistry has not lost its relevance. Curling with the use of potent chemical compounds is very popular due to its long-lasting effect. Curls retain their shape for 6 months, which is the main advantage of this chemistry.

But since preparations containing ammonia and other aggressive chemical components are used to create curls, there is a risk of side effects... Strong drugs destroy the hair structure. Because of this, the hairstyle after washing out the composition looks lifeless, the hair becomes brittle, dull and thinned. Therefore, after such a procedure, it is imperative to follow all the rules of care and make restorative hair masks.

Acid chemistry

This is one of the most popular methods for creating curls. The essence of this procedure is the use of drugs based on a substance called glyceryl monothioglycolate. The active substances enter the hair, changing its structure. A significant plus is that the active ingredients do not damage the protective scales. Thus, the harm caused to the hair is minimized. The hair does not swell much, which allows you to wind the strands with tension.

Strong tight curls are created through exposure high temperatures... Additional heating also has a negative effect on the strands. Therefore, this type of chemistry cannot be called harmless. Due to the drying effect, these formulations cannot be used on fine, dry hair. Such a perm can only be done by owners of strong and healthy hair.

Alkaline perm

Alkaline permanents have been used to create curls for a long time. But modern gentle drugs have not supplanted this type of chemistry. Such a perm provides a shorter lasting effect than an acid perm. But it is suitable for dry hair. Also, this type of chemistry solves the problem of naughty strands. As a result, it is possible to create elastic and natural curls.

For this curling, drugs are used in which the main active ingredient is ammonium thioglycolate. After being applied to the strands, the composition reveals a protective layer of flakes. Because of this, not only a change, but also a violation of the hair structure is possible. There is a risk of brittleness, dryness, split ends, and a washcloth effect.

If you are choosing between acidic and alkaline chemistry, be aware that alkaline drugs work more gently.

Alkaline perm will not work for owners of hard, thick hair, since it will not be possible to achieve a long-lasting effect.

Thioglycolic acid perm

This is a gentle kind of chemistry. It is applicable for colored strands. The composition used is practically harmless to hair. But you should not count on a long-term effect. Curls after this procedure last for about 30 days.

Neutral chemistry

This modern perm is suitable even for soft hair, as it does not have a damaging effect. The preparations used contain keratin, which smoothes the scales, restoring the protective layer. In terms of the duration of the effect, this chemistry is superior to alkaline, but inferior to acidic.

It should be borne in mind that neutral chemistry has one feature: after this procedure, you must use hair products with a neutral pH level. Otherwise, the curls will quickly straighten and the effect will be short-lived.

Amino acid chemistry

To create curls, preparations with amino acids and proteins are used. The composition also contains chemicals, due to which the formation of curls is ensured. Amino acids and proteins neutralize the negative effects of chemical active ingredients. In addition, such formulations have a regenerating and healing effect.

The only drawback of this procedure is that the curls last up to 2 months.

It is not recommended to do an amino acid perm on long strands, since the curls will quickly straighten.

Biowave

This modern technology curls are popular with women of different ages... This curling has 3 main advantages:

• curls last up to six months;
• hair looks natural;
• the hair structure is not damaged.

The compositions used do not contain aggressive components such as ammonia. Thanks to this, the harm caused to the curls is minimized. For biowaving, drugs are used, the composition of which is similar to hair molecules. They gently and carefully affect the strands, forming tight, beautiful curls. The hairstyle gets extra volume, the curls look luxurious and well-groomed.

Biochemistry will become a good decision for owners of naturally curly hair. As a rule, natural curls are formed only in the lower part of the strands, and in the root zone, the hair is straight. Biowave will add additional root volume and make curls neat and even.

This perm involves the use of three formulations. First, a protein composition is applied to form curls. Then the strands wound on bobbins or curlers are treated with a protein thickening agent. At the final stage, a composition is applied to fix the curls.

Biowave should be chosen by girls with normal or oily hair... For owners of dry, weakened strands, this is not best view chemistry.

Hair carving

This is another modern curling technique that allows you to create small curls, large curls and even vertical spiral curls using gentle formulations. - the safest procedure for hair. In time, it takes 1.5 hours. Such a perm is performed in several stages:

• The hair is combed and divided into several sections.
• One section is treated with a special gentle compound.
• Thin strands are wound on curlers.
• The same is done with all the strands.
• After a certain time, the hair is washed with plenty of running water and dried.

Light chemistry looks natural. Another advantage of this procedure is that the curls are straightened evenly. This eliminates the need to adjust the hairstyle. After completely washing out the composition, the hair looks the same as before curling.

Like any type of chemistry, carving has its limitations. It is not recommended to perform it on long thick hair... The gentle composition is not able to form tight curls that will hold on to such heavy strands. Also, this perm is not recommended for dyed and discolored weakened strands.

Carving is suitable for medium length strands and short haircuts. The duration of the effect is from 4 to 8 weeks. The formulations used have a drying effect.

Modern perm with natural silk

Can chemistry be absolutely safe for hair? Yes. An example of such chemistry is the "silk wave". This procedure involves the use of a preparation that contains silk proteins. They do not contain hydrogen peroxide, ammonia and other potent substances that negatively affect the hair. After curling, even damaged strands without shine will look healthy and beautiful.

Natural silk perm is ideal for short haircuts and owners of medium strands. Silk is a fiber, the structure of which has many similarities to the structure of hair. The proteins of this fiber have a therapeutic effect, restoring the integrity of the structure of each hair at the molecular level.

This modern type of curling not only allows you to create beautiful bouncy curls, but also restore the lost health and beauty of your hair. Silk chemistry is suitable for owners of weakened hair. It can be done during pregnancy, during breastfeeding. There are no contraindications, except for individual intolerance to the components of the drug. Therefore, silk curling can be considered universal.

How long the curls last depends on the thickness and length of the hair. On average, curls retain their shape for 1 to 2 months.

Japanese chemistry

By listing modern methods perming hair, it is necessary to mention about. It was first developed by Goldwell. But today, similar formulations from other manufacturers are available for sale. The main active ingredient in such preparations is the matrix. The same component is present in human hair. The matrix acts on the hair structure, restoring s-bonds.

In addition, the preparations used contain keratin. This amino acid makes hair strong and elastic. Betaine, which is also found in these formulations, nourishes curls and gives them an attractive shine. And the shape of the curls is fixed due to the presence of silicon-cystine in the composition. The unique formula of the drug allows you to simultaneously form tight curls and restore damaged hair structure.

This type of perm is suitable for loose hair of any length.

There is only one limitation: perm using Japanese technology cannot be done more often than once every 6 months. It is necessary to give the hair a rest for at least 1 month after straightening the curls. It should also be borne in mind that this is an expensive procedure. But the safety for the hair and the long-lasting effect fully justify the cost.

American Chemistry

The types of curling differ in the composition used, as well as the technique of winding the strands. One of the modern varieties is American perm technology. The strands are wound on special curlers or knitting needles. As a result, after the procedure, beautiful large curls are formed. Bio-sparing formulations are used for this perm. Therefore, you should not worry about damaging your hair.

As the chemical is washed out and the roots grow back, the border between the part of the strands treated with the bio-composition and the roots is invisible. Therefore, even after many months, your hairstyle will remain neat and effective.

Modern perm hair - photo

See what your hairstyle looks like after a procedure such as modern hair chemistry - photos will help you determine the appropriate type of perm for your hairstyle and appearance. Modern views chemistry provides the effect of natural curls, which look like the hair is naturally curly.

Perm won popularity in our country many years ago and remains in demand until now. But only relatively recently this procedure has reached its perfection - it became possible to create completely different hairstyles, in contrast to the Soviet period. These changes were influenced by innovative developments in the field of hair beauty and the latest preparations for perm.

The "chemistry" of the Soviet era greatly damaged the hair structure and looked very unnatural, and also required titanic efforts to care and restore hair. But for this she was no less popular.

Modern preparations for perm

Several years ago, a significant leap forward took place in the field of hair beauty - safe and effective drugs for a chemical wave. But the sequence and essence of the procedure remained the same - modification of the structure and shape of the hair.

The latest generation of specialized preparations not only does not harm the health of the hair, but also has positive effects of restoring the natural structure. With minimal trauma to the hair structure, an effective result can now be achieved.

The latest generation of preparations contains active chemical elements responsible for the formation and fixing of the curl, as well as caring "smart" substances that can self-distribute to the areas of the hair that need to be strengthened most.

Perm classification

Most perm preparations basically contain thioorganic compounds and their derivatives, capable of affecting the structure and shape of the hair, modifying it regardless of the temperature regime.

An equally important indicator of the chemical composition is the pH of hydrogen. The higher it is, the more active the drug acts on the hair, thereby increasing the likelihood of keratin dissolution and destruction of bonds.

Alkaline Permanent for Chemical Styling

It is characterized by a classic composition, the main active ingredient is thioglycolic acid. It is used for styling and curling natural healthy hair, creating elastic curls as a result. Its pH level, depending on the percentage of ammonia, ranges from 8.5 to 9.5.

The main disadvantage of an alkaline permanent is the release of harmful hydrogen sulfide vapors that can cause side effects such as general malaise, headache, contact and other dermatitis.

Modern alkaline preparations are less aggressive to hair due to the presence of "smart" healing substances that restore damaged hair areas and soften the effect of the chemical composition.

Acid-balanced permanent

Acid-balanced and neutral formulations for perm do not contain aggressively strong alkalis, therefore they are not so harmful to hair. Their main constituent is glyceryl monothioglycolate.

This tool needs a special activator. When they are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs, as a result of which heat is released and the mixture heats up to 40 degrees. This speeds up the curling process.

The effect of such a composition is softer than alkaline, but the curls are not so elastic, and the duration of the styling process is longer. This method is used on tired, weak and colored hair.

The main disadvantage of such a drug is the small resistance of the curling, the styling made with its help will not last very long. But the hair will look more natural and will not be afraid of the influences of nature and moisture.

Mild Alkaline Perm Permanent

Such a solution is more gentle than an alkaline solution, it does not harm the structure and health of the hair. It contains amino acids, so this perm can be called healing.

During the curling procedure, the hair receives a protein complex that restores and improves its structure. This styling is durable.

The chemical solution is practically odorless, does not harm the skin and respiratory organs. However, there is a high risk of an allergic reaction.

Long-term styling gel

Such a drug is easily squeezed out of the package and is not difficult to apply. It is convenient for styling in selected parts of the head. Usually it is used to style the regrown root layer of hair, to add volume in the roots to short hair, as well as for curling the hair of the temporal region with short haircuts. The product is applied to the desired areas of the hair with a comb, giving them the required shape and volume.

Permanent foam

This drug is the most harmless of all. Its mild effect on hair allows it to create volume with almost no frizz.

Whichever preparation for a perm you are leaning towards, before using it, you need to make sure that there are no allergic and side effects, and also consult with a specialist who will tell you which product is suitable for your hair type.