M müller and son dresses blouses. Characteristics of the design methodology "M. Müller and son
The collection "Atelier-2002" includes the basic lessons of designing women's and children's clothing according to the unique system of cutting "M. Muller and Son ”, published in 2002 in the professional magazine“ Atelier ”. The collection is necessary for everyone for whom sewing is a profession or a hobby for the soul. The main themes of the collection "Atelier-2002": Reversible materials Products with one-piece sleeves overweight women Changes to the drawing of trousers for figures with deviations from the conventionally-typical Options for modeling sleeves and collars Designing products of an adjacent silhouette Elegant coat models large sizes Clothes for petite women Clothes for sports and leisure Blouses
The book is part of the "Library of the Atelier magazine" series. On our site you can download the book "Collection" Atelier - 2002 ". M. Mueller and son. Cutting technique" in fb2, rtf, epub, pdf, txt format or read online. Here you can also, before reading, refer to the reviews of readers who are already familiar with the book, and find out their opinions. In the online store of our partner, you can buy and read a book in paper form.
Volume: 260 pages
Format: 215x316 mm.
Hardcover, dust jacket.
Released in 2007.
Content
I. Measurement of the figure and calculation of dimensional characteristics
- Table (form) with dimensional characteristics
- Measurement of the figure
- Calculation of auxiliary dimensional characteristics
- Increases for freedom of fit
- Table of dimensional characteristics of typical figures of women
II. Basic product drawings
- Drawing of the basic basis of a semi-fitted dress
- Drawing of the basic basis of a dress for enterprises of mass production of clothing
- Allowances for seam processing in the base frame drawing
- Drawing of the basic basis of a dress for a full figure
- Drawing of the basic basis of the dress straight silhouette
- Conversion of the basic body of a semi-fitted dress to design more free-form products
- Conversion of the basic basis of a straight silhouette dress for designing models without bust darts
- Drawing of the basic base of a blouse with bust darts
- Drawing of the basic base of a blouse without chest darts
III. Modeling dresses and blouses
- Cut-off dress along the waist line
- Transfer of the dart to the convexity of the shoulder blades to the cut of the neck
- Translation of darts on the front of the bodice
- Dress with embossed shoulder
- Dresses with reliefs from the armhole (with Viennese seams)
- Dresses with wedges year
- Dress with embossed armholes and short bust darts
- Dress with a detachable yoke and pleats
- Dress with reliefs from the neckline and armholes
- Empire style dress with horizontal seam under the bust
- Dress with set-in belt and boat neck
- Dress with a figured set-in belt and V-neck necks
- Dress with asymmetric flounce and asymmetrical neckline (neckline in Indian sari style)
- Dress with curly ruffle and "American" armhole
- Three dresses with low-slung stitching lines with wide ruffles and flounces
- Dress-coat of an adjacent silhouette with a shawl collar
- Dress-coat of a straight silhouette with an offset open fastener with a jacket-type collar
- Dress shirt
- Dress with rectangular reliefs, decorated with pleats
- Pants dress
- Long dress with a train
- Classic blouse-shirt with yokes on the shelves and back
- Blouse with plastron, decorated with stitched pleats
- Blouse without darts with stitched diagonal pleats
- Blouse with a curly bottom in the style of a vest
- Blouse with pleats and detachable peplum
- Top in lingerie style
- Top with pleats
- Blouse with a stitched belt and open back
- Bolero jacket
IV. Set-in sleeves for dresses and blouses
- First the armhole, then the sleeve!
- Construction of a set-in sleeve of medium width for a dress
- Important! Control of the width of the sleeve and the height of the sleeve ridge
- Determination of the width of the sleeve and the height of the ridge
- Determination of the size of the fit along the edge of the sleeve
- Construction of a sleeve on a typical figure
- Set-in sleeve of medium width for dress (for enterprises of mass production of clothes)
- Seam allowances in the sleeve drawing
- Narrow set-in sleeve for a dress
- Construction of a set-in sleeve of medium width for a dress for a full figure
- Two-seam set-in sleeve with upper and lower cuts
- Sleeve with extension along the bottom line
- Sleeve with gathers (drapery) at the bottom of the top seam
- Sleeves-puff with gathers along the edge
- Sleeve-puff with folds along the side
- Sleeve-puff with a large expansion in the area of the upper part
- Sleeve with gathers on the side and bottom, with a wide fitting cuff
- Sleeve with crossed folds (scissor folds)
- Construction of a wide set-in sleeve with a stitched cuff
- Some types of stitched cuffs for sleeves
- Models of extended sleeves with stitched cuffs
- Sleeve with a one-piece turn-down cuff (with a turn-up)
- Construction of a set-in sleeve with a low rim with a stitched cuff
- Conversion of a medium-width set-in sleeve with a normal rounding height to obtain a free-form, low rounding sleeve
- Construction of set-in short sleeves
- Short sleeve expansion options
- Bell sleeve or wing sleeve
- Sleeve-balloon
- Tulip sleeve
- Short sleeve with a one-piece turn-down cuff (with a turn-up)
- Short sleeves with a detachable curly turn-down cuff
V. All about the shoulder and armhole
- Shoulder width
- Deepening the armhole
- Armhole lengthening
- Conversions of the front, back and sleeves in the ridge area for models with upper shoulder pads
Vi. Sleeves of various cuts (kimono sleeves)
1. Raglan sleeves
- Raglan sleeve
- Further development of the raglan sleeve design
- Three raglan sleeves with different sizes
- Half-raglan sleeve
- Raglan yoke sleeve
- One-piece sleeve with Viennese seams
- One-piece sleeve with cross-seam
- Raglan sleeve in products with yokes
2. One-piece sleeves with gussets
- Preparatory stage for construction of one-piece sleeves with gussets
- One-piece sleeve with gusset and low ridge (drawing base)
- One-piece sleeve with gusset and high ridge (drawing base)
- One-piece sleeve with diamond gusset
- One-piece sleeve with a gusset that passes into the lower part of the sleeve
- One-piece sleeve with a gusset that passes into the cut-off side of the product
- One-piece sleeves with gusset
- Subsequent elongation of the okat on the product patterns
3. Sleeves in high volume products
- Sleeves in products with a shortened shoulder line
- Sleeves in products with an extended shoulder line
4. Sleeves in the product with square armhole
5. One-piece sleeves
- One-piece short sleeve
- One-piece sleeves, constructed by combining the details of the set-in sleeve with the details of the front and back
- One-piece sleeve in bulky products with the extension of the front and back along the lateral lines
- Raglan sleeve in soft products, built on the basis of a one-piece sleeve
- Elongation of the lower edge of the sleeve
- Elongation of the upper edge of the sleeve
- One-piece sleeve with a low-lying section of the transition of the line of the lower edge of the sleeve into the line side cut products
- One-piece sleeve " bat»
- One-piece batwing sleeve without bottom seam
Vii. Collars
- First the neckline, then the collar!
- Set-in racks
- Stand-up turn-down collars with one-piece and cut-off shirt-type stand
- Stand-up collars built on the base right angle
- Flat collar with round ends
- Stand-up collar with fastening at the shoulder line
- One-piece stand-up collars
- One-piece stand with lapels and narrow shawl collar
- Stand-up collar with lapels
- Collar with cascade effect
- Jacket collars built on a shelf
- Collars built by combining the front and back
- Flat lay decorative collar
- Wide jacket-style collar, built when combining the shelf and back
- Wide collar with lapels and concave folds
- Wide stand-up collar with a one-piece stand, built by combining the front and back
- Stand-up collar with detachable stand
- Stand-up collar with rectangular ends in a garment with an enlarged V-neck
- Sailor style collar
- Collar pagoda in the product with a strongly widened neckline
VIII. Special Drawings
- Layout shoulder product adjacent silhouette of low degree of freedom
- Two-seam sleeve for a mock-up of a shoulder piece of an adjacent silhouette with a low degree of freedom
- German national dress bodice
- Corsage
IX. Drapery
- Bodice with radial drape (Roman pleats)
- Bodice with insert, draped with Roman pleats and one-piece stand
- Bodice with a wrap and asymmetrical drapery from side seam
- Dress with asymmetric draping from the shoulder
- Dress with asymmetric drapery and wide front panel
X. Complex shapes
- Big breasts- straight back - flat buttocks
- Stooped figure
- Other options for converting the back
- Dropped front waistline
- Lowered waistline at the back, as well as protruding shoulder blades, hips shifted forward
- Full, protruding buttocks
- Full figure with protruding belly
- Various sleeve transformations
- High shoulders - low (sloping) shoulders
- Correction of the patterns of the product with raglan sleeves for a figure with high shoulders
- Correction of the patterns of the product with one-piece sleeves with gussets for a figure with high shoulders
- Asymmetrical figure
- Changing patterns to increase the width of the details along the chest line
- Changing patterns for women of tall or short stature
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Addition...
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MAGAZINES AND BOOKS FOR OVEN |
From a series of textbooks on the design technique and manufacturing technology of clothing.
In the book “Müller and Son. Dresses and blouses. Designing ”special attention is paid to modeling and designing for non-standard figures.
Main topics: drawings of the basic foundations of products, dresses and blouses of fashionable silhouettes, construction of collars, sleeves of various cuts, draperies, corsage, fancy dresses... The book contains detailed drawings with detailed explanations.
Buy the book “M.Müller and Son. Dresses and blouses. Construction "in the konliga.biz store If you do not see the magazine cover in the squareplease update Adobe Flash Player.
Volume: 260 pages
Format: 215x316 mm.
Hardcover, dust jacket.
Released in 2007.