Do you love interior toys the way I love them? Then you will be interested to learn how to sew a tilde doll and learn a little about the history of these adorable toys. You can also make a doll in a small workshop and decorate ready-made toys.

Of course, the tilde can hardly be called a functional toy, it refers more to interior dolls, but I made my first tilde as a gift to the cutest girl of three years old, and, as far as I can tell, I was right with the gift - toys grow with children, and I had to have already restored the doll several times.

In modern culture, the tilde occupies a special position. To begin with, this doll, I must say, is not new - the Norwegian designer Tony Finnanger invented it back in the nineties. According to the designer in her interviews, she planned to create a cozy home toy that would appeal to both children and adults. She used natural fabrics for this, and the manufacturing process was as simple as possible.

First, the designer made one doll, and then the business started flowing, and after a while Finnanger opened a shop where you could buy a doll, patterns and books about this amazing toy. Over time, various animals began to appear, which were designed in a similar style.

Secrets

In my opinion, these toys have their own character, they are individual and original. The secrets and features of Tilda help to withstand the style, and these are:

• certain facial features, if you watch a lot of photos and videos with Tildas, you will notice that all Tildas have small black eyes and ruddy cheeks;
• natural fabrics are used for the manufacture, rustic motifs and country-style fabrics are also used - a small flower, a strip or a cell;
• you can stuff a toy with almost any soft materials;
• you can sew with your hands and with a typewriter;
• for hair use threads or ordinary yarn, yarn called "Ivy" is also used - a beautiful disheveled hairstyle is obtained;
• very often, for the manufacture of Tildas, they take an ordinary white cotton fabric, and in order to give it the desired color, they simply dye it with tea or coffee;
• blush is painted either with ordinary blush or with pencil dust - you need to sharpen the pencil a little, remove the wood chips, leaving only the pigment, and rub gently into the cheeks.

Materials for making

What will it take to create a doll? Let's put together our doll sewing kit:

• needles and threads of natural shades (cotton, linen, iris);
• fabric (more on the choice of fabric);
• paper and pencil (to create a pattern);
• good scissors;
• soft padding materials (cotton wool, synthetic winterizer, holofiber, synthetic fluff and so on);
• fabric, cords, beads and buttons for making Tilda's outfits;
• yarn, wool or thread.

Fabrics

What fabrics are used? Traditionally, only natural fabrics are taken, it can be:

• any cotton material;
• natural linen and fabrics based on it;
• thin wool;
• jersey;
• fleece.

You need to choose fabric not only for outward appearance, but also according to special criteria:

• the fabric should be dense enough, if the weaving is watery, the pupa will simply creep;
• you should also consider the structure of the fabric, there are inclusions of denser threads - it looks sloppy;
• you should not choose too hard fabric, it will turn out badly, creases will appear, and the doll will look tough;
• the fabric must be flexible enough, otherwise it will not iron too well.

Manufacturing process

So, let's start our Tilda master class. I am sure that absolutely everyone will succeed for beginners, if they just want to. How the whole process should go:

• we make patterns in life size;
• we cut out the fabric;
• we sew all parts of the body;
• we sew a doll;
• we make hair and clothes;
• draw a face and select accessories.

Manufacturing

1. First you need to make a pattern. Tilda patterns are online, you can print them for free. If you want, you can buy a book or a magazine, but by and large the patterns are the same everywhere. (click on the picture to enlarge):
   
   
2. Then the pattern must be transferred to the fabric. It is convenient to use a chalk pencil for this, but if suddenly inspiration fell upon you, and the sewing supplies store is closed for some reason, then you can take a dry piece of soap or chalk, and a simple pencil is also suitable. How to make sure that the pattern does not move? Pin it with pins.
3. You need to cut the pattern with a margin, about half a centimeter on each side.
4. Each part of the body must be stitched well - on a typewriter or with a neat seam.
5. Then you can start stuffing. If you want to make the doll softer - use a synthetic winterizer, if you like dense stuffing - use cotton wool.
   
   
6. Assemble Tilda with your own hands and steam or iron.
7. Then you need to make clothes for the doll. Do not miss the size, it is better to take measurements in order not to be mistaken. Usually Tilda make dresses and sundresses (we suggest wearing a tilde in a dress and a denim jacket, or a jacket and pants, see the pattern below).
   
   
   
8. Do your doll's hair. Or sew a hat for the doll. I sewed a wig like this: first you need to sew future hair across to make a parting. Then you need to sew the hair to the head and style the hair.
   
9. You can also prepare accessories that will decorate it - hand-made handbags and small toys or flowers.

You can watch a simple video tutorial on creating such dolls:

The video shows in detail how to make a doll's hair:

By the way, if you know how to knit, then you will probably like crochet tilde doll- I'm not good with knitting, but look how cute they are! In general, knitting is a very fertile topic, which certainly does not interfere with the manufacture of a tilda.

See how to make a tilde doll a master class in knitting:

Adding details

And a Tilda doll with her own hands should be beautiful, and for this she will need accessories. How to surround your Tilda?

1. Nice quilt in patchwork style.
2. Animals in Tilda style. For example, see how to make a tilde hare doll master class + template:
   
   
   
3. If you liked the original tilde doll, the pattern should also be classic - for example, you can use this one.
   
   
4. Garlands of hearts. Here is a pattern for making a garland of hearts (click on the picture to enlarge).
   
   

But what if you want to make unique dolls? What other Tilda dolls are there?

They make thematic dolls for each holiday. This is a great way to add a zest to your interior - if you allocate a certain shelf or a wide window sill for tildeches, then you can arrange a real dollhouse there. A variety of miniature items, various items, and other adorable items like miniature bouquets will come in handy.

Tilda is used to embody some scenes. For example, there are patterns to recreate a classic Christmas scene using dolls.

Many mothers make tildos for children - children like these dolls, and they are absolutely not traumatic, and due to the fact that only natural materials are used for their manufacture, they are also non-toxic.

And here is the Tilde snail with a template:

Want to give your products a little bit of functionality? Make flavored sachets. They can be used throughout the house - just drip an aromatic composition inside when making a doll, and the toy will exude a magical aroma for a long time.

Another great way to make a toy not only enjoyable, but also useful is to turn it into a sleepy pillow. Judge for yourself - the tilde are soft, they have no hard elements or sharp corners, they are made of natural fabrics. Just use special herbal preparations sewn in several layers of cotton or gauze as the main stuffing. Such a pillow will not only be pleasant and beautiful, but can also help relieve stress, calm down, and make it easier to fall asleep.

I think I managed to shed some light on these magical dolls and interest you in them - I am sure that everyone will be able to make their own toy, even if they are completely unfamiliar with needlework and creativity.

And one more important plus of the tilde - they should not be executed flawlessly, their charm is also in a little absurdity, which is characteristic only of handmade toys.

Tilda doll master classes:

Try to sew your own Tilda - it can be a wonderful gift for an adult or a child, it can be used as interior decoration or remind of some important event in the life of the owner. Tilda will become a wonderful toy for a baby and a talisman for a young mother, you can add aromatic substances to it so that she refreshes the house with a cozy and delicately selected aroma, or you can fill it with fragrant herbs and give it to a child who does not fall asleep well.

Every person's life should have traditions, sweet and cozy, which we carry through the years, cherish and preserve - perhaps the dolls will become just such a tradition for your family, which will help to express and preserve love between your family members!

• Tailor's scissors.
• Chalk, soap, or fabric marker.
• Needle and thread.
• Fabrics.
• Filler for toys. It can be synthetic fluff, holofiber or even granulate (it is used to make toys heavier).
• Tilda hare patterns.
• Accessories for decorating toys.

Free sewing patterns

Tildozaika, tilde Hare, tilde Rabbit, etc. - one of the most beloved and soulful Tilda. Many times altered by craftswomen: either the handles-legs on a button fastening, then the ears are lengthened-shortened, the nose is higher-lower, the mouth different shapes- and, nevertheless, very recognizable :)

It is not at all difficult to distinguish a Tilda rabbit from a Tilda rabbit - just pay attention to their ears. In the tilde rabbit, the ears are down, and in the hare, they stick up. Below you will find a large number of master classes and patterns, according to which you can easily make your own bunny or rabbit.

Bunny Puzatik by Wolli Chii

Tilda hare by Tatiana Konne

Hare by Tone Finnanger

Pattern 1

Pattern 2

Such a country bunny with a carrot hem - well, I really like it!

Fat hare Tilda

Patterns and visual assembly of the toy.

Decoration of the face and clothes

The nose of the hare.

Naturally, everyone who sews such a toy wants to dress it up according to his own taste. What exactly will suit your hare, you will see for yourself immediately, as soon as it is ready. Many masters write that each tilde doll has its own character, and if the clothes that were originally planned do not fit (sometimes it happens!), You have to redo everything.

Free Tilda Bunny Sewing Workshops

Bunny in a dress and a green coat

Interesting and full photo a master class on sewing a tilda and clothes for her.

Bunny based on T. Konne's toys

Master class and patterns from Evgenia Ambartsumyan.

Step-by-step master class from NKALE

Paid master classes

Of course, there are a great many free master classes and patterns for creating bunnies with your own hands on the network, some needlewomen prefer high-quality paid photo and video master classes and patterns.

Below you will find a selection of Russian-language paid master classes.

Big game hares from Ekaterina Vinnichek

Bunnies on this MK will turn out to be just play ones, from unpainted natural fabric, with embroidered muzzles, they can be washed, clothes can be removed. The height of the hares is 42-43 cm.

Easter bunny

Highly detailed master class, in which you will find patterns on 40 pages, 134 step by step photos and a description of the process of sewing Easter bunnies - a boy and a girl. And also: how to "weave" a basket and an exclusive gift wrapping how to age the fabric, how to make the bunny stand confidently on its feet and how to make its handles bendable ...

Textile bunny from Larisa Martynova

Includes body and clothing pattern.

Tilda hares by tilda4kids

A set of patterns for creating hares - a girl and a boy and clothes for them in PDF format, step by step video tutorials and a bunch of useful information.

For a long time she promised a photo-MK of the groom, but earlier it was impossible)

And there was no time to process the pattern normally.

So, I usually sew the groom on the basis of the Pixie Boy Tilda pattern. Here is the pattern already cleaned up)

As usual, we transfer the pattern to the fabric. Sewing the details Traditionally, as Tony Finnanger advises, initially rectangles of fabric of the appropriate size were sewn: white and flesh for the handles, black and flesh for the feet in the boots. Next, we fold the resulting combined rectangles of fabric and transfer the pattern with a pencil, then sew along the contour, and only then cut out the finished parts. I did not repeat all these stages in the photographs for lack of time, and you can read more about this in my previous MK on the bath angel, since there is always one principle here.

Also, I think you yourself will mark on the pattern where the shoes should end. Boots can be of different heights. It depends more on the image, so I have nothing checked.

Yes, the allowance for sewing on the hand in my photo is cut in the upper part in a straight line. In fact, this will not really affect the result. it's just more convenient for me.

We make cuts every 2-3 millimeters perpendicular to the seam and almost to the seam itself in places where our parts have a pronounced rounding or straight and sharp corners.

We turn out the details with the help of a sushi stick (again, details in MK on the bath angel). If the details are thin, then you can turn it out with a cocktail tube and a wooden skewer for a kebab. But the groom does not have such details, so I will describe the stage of turning out thin details sometime next time)

We fill the details with padding polyester

Having stuffed the leg to about the middle, we fix the place of the future bend of the leg (knee) with a pin and continue stuffing further

We also stuff the second leg to the middle, compare so that the knee level is the same on both legs.

We fill the second leg to the end and close the top on both legs with pins, stepping back about 0.5 cm from the top edge.

Next, we sew the knees marked earlier with pins on a typewriter and sew up the top. I usually don't take off all the pins at once. I take off one pin - stitch it, then proceed to the next seam. The fact is that when you just removed the pin, traces of it remain on the fabric, and you can even lay a line along these traces. And if you remove all the pins at once, then these small holes may simply disappear by the time you start to sew.

Sew up the upper part of the leg without bending anything! This is done for the convenience of subsequent stitching of the leg.

Now let's put the legs aside for a while and take care of the handles.

The seam allowances in the upper part of the arm, which remain unstitched, are tucked inward along the intended seam line.

We fill the little body. The stuffing of the calf at the very bottom should not be too tight, I usually leave a centimeter and a half free.

We bend the allowance along the bottom of the calf (about 0.5 cm), running our fingers along the fold and thereby creating a hall in the place of the future seam.

Now we pin the legs with the help of pins so that the very edge of the calf (with a folded allowance) just covers the upper seam on the leg we made earlier. First, we pin the legs to the front half of the calf and sew them on, then to the back. I also described this stage in more detail in MK on the bath angel.

Now we cut the shirt. Sometimes I cut out the shirt as part of the calf, but in the case of this groom, at first I did not have a certainty with the color of the shirt, so I cut it out as a separate piece.

So, we apply the body to the fabric bent in half, from which we will sew the shirt, and transfer the pattern to the fabric.

We finish drawing the line of the neckline on the pattern obtained on the fabric.

We sew along the contour on a typewriter, leaving the collar and the bottom of the future shirt unstitched.

Cut out the part with an allowance of 0.5 cm

Now let's take care of the future cuffs and button placket.

Cut out a long strip of the same fabric as the shirt. I will not say the exact length, since I usually cut off just a long strip, which should be approximately enough for the entire length of the shirt and for two girths of the arm. The width of the strip should be about 3 cm.

We bend the allowances on both sides of the strip inward and attach them on a typewriter. As a result, the width of the strip with bent allowances should be 1.5 cm.

Now we pull the shirt over our groom's head. At the waist, the shirt, of course, is slightly narrower than the width of the groom's shoulders, so I help with a sushi stick, pushing the body into the shirt))) This is what happens.

We fix the strip with pins.

Sew on the sides with a blind stitch

We do not process the neck itself anymore. The edge just stays bent a couple of millimeters.

Now we take a strip of fabric, again about 3 cm wide, fold it in half lengthwise and try on how long the shirt collar should be. We just apply it to the neckline and do not forget that to the resulting length we also need to add allowances for the seams on both sides, about 0.5 cm.

We cut off the length we need, making a small bevel. At the base, the collar should be a couple of millimeters narrower than at the ends. Yes, the base of the collar will be on the side where the cut of the fabric is open (in the photo, the base of the collar is below)

Sew the collar on the sides on both sides at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge

We turn out the resulting part, immediately bend the allowances at the base of the collar. We iron it all with an iron so that the collar looks neat, and then it was easier to lay a seam at its base.

We sew two parts of the collar at the base with a blind seam. We will get a collar with cuts hemmed on all sides. such a solid piece.

And now we sew the collar to the neckline in a circle with a blind seam, slightly grabbing the calf fabric.

Here's a collar in the end should turn out

Sew on beads-buttons at the same distance on the shirt strap

Sew on the cuffs. I usually grab them on the sides and top. It's enough.

We bend the end of the cuff and sew a button bead onto the cuffs.

Here's a cuff that should turn out.

Make sure that the folded ends of the cuffs on the different handles are pointing in different directions. On the finished doll, the fold on the cuff should be directed towards the back.

To be honest, the stage of cutting out the trousers was lost somewhere. But I will try to describe in words how I make the pattern. The leg pattern should look like this. The width at the top should be equal to the width of the paper pattern of the calf at the bottom. The width at the bottom of the leg should be at least two feet wide. I usually do about three widths (this is optional and to taste). It turns out that we first trace from the waist on the sides down the paper pattern of the calf, then draw the so-called seam of the seat (slightly rounded lines to the sides, they will protrude to the side by about half the width of the leg). Then with a STRAIGHT (and not curved, as in this pattern) line we connect the ends of the seam lines of the seat with the line of the bottom of the leg.

I understand that it is difficult to understand in words, so if necessary, I will take a photo of how I cut out the pants.

Yes, to determine the length of the leg, you need to attach a foot to the end of the seam of the seat and mark the desired length (my boots cover, but if you are sewing very narrow cropped trousers that are fashionable now, then the boot should be open and the socks should look out ... and the line of the boot in in this case, it is not done too high).

Putting trousers on the groom

We sew with a blind seam along the waist to the calf through the shirt

We bend it to the desired length and sew the needle back with a seam.

We cut a vest. First, I make a pattern for the back (I circle the body on top (where the shoulder of the vest should be) and on the sides to the desired length (usually up to the waist) and draw the neckline, armhole lines, bottom line). Then I fold the resulting back pattern in half. I circle half of the back pattern along the lines of the shoulders, armholes, on the side. I mark the size of the collar of the vest (this is individual every time, depending on the style of the vest). Do not forget that the edges of the vest should overlap. Also remember that the bottom corners of the vest in front are lower than the bottom line of the vest along the back. In the photo, the pattern is transferred to the fabric. This is the look this pattern should have.

I sew a double-sided vest, so I cut out two details of the back and four details of the shelves (in pairs in a mirror image).

On this voto, all the details are stitched along the contour. In the vest, we leave unstitched only side slices... The photo also showed a tie. Honestly, I always cut it by eye. The length of a tie for a groom with a height of 45 cm turns out to be about 25 cm (you can even 30). We sew the tie along the contour, leaving a small piece unstitched for turning.

We turn out all the details.

In the tie, we sew an unsewn place with secret stitches.

We tie a tie on the groom according to all the rules)

Now we get down to the vest. Here all the details have already been cut and turned out, ironed out. Sew the vest along the side seams.

We put on the groom. We pin with pins in the front so that the vest is motionless.

Now sew the shoulder seams with blind stitches.

This is how it should turn out.

Now you can sew on your hands. Pin up and sew in a circle with blind stitches.

Well. Now all that remains is to make the groom's hair (you can embroider a floss, you can sew on wool) and embroider or draw eyes, make a blush. With this, I think you can handle it perfectly well without me)

My fiance had to be curly, with long enough hair. Here is such a handsome man in the end)

MK wrote at night. Therefore, if I did not finish writing something, or something turned out to be incomprehensible - write, ask. I sew grooms often, so I can make the missing photos on the other groom)