Building a pattern for a man's shirt starts with building a grid by measurements for a standard or individual shape.

To build a men's shirt, we need the following measurements:

Semi-girth of the neck - Ssh,

Semi-girth of the chest - Cg,

Chest width - Wg,

Back length - Dts,

Back width - Shs,

Shoulder width - Shp,

Sleeve length - Dr,

Product length - Di.

Meshing

All constructions of patterns WITHOUT ALLOWANCES ON THE SEAMS.

Building an angle with a vertex at a point Ao.

Mesh width

We measure a segment equal to the width of the product along the chest line:

Ao a2 = Cr + Pr + Pr, that is, half-girth of the chest + an increase in free fit (6 cm) + an increase in the fold of the back (4 cm) and a shelf strip (7 cm).

Mesh length

From Ao down we measure the length of the product + 2.5 cm (according to the model) and denote it with a dot N.

From a2 down we draw a line to a straight line N and denote H2.

H2 and N connect with a straight line.

Our drawing consists of 3 parts: backrest, armholes and shelves. Calculated from Shs, Shg and Pr for free bond to these sites.

Back

From point Ao measure the segment to the right Ao a = Shs + Pr (3 cm).

Shelf

From point a1 measure the segment to the left a2 a1 = Wg + Pr (2 cm).

Armhole depth

You do not need to calculate the depth of the armhole using the formula. The values ​​are taken from 20-26 cm.

From point G to the right we draw a horizontal line and denote G2.

From point a and a1 down we draw vertical lines, limiting the section of the armhole in width and denote G1 G3.

Points D1 and G3 divide in half and denote by a dot G4; from this point we lower the perpendicular down to the segment H H2 and denote H1.

Waistline

Find the waistline by measuring Dts.

From point Ao measure down Dts+ 2.5 cm and denote by a dot T.

From T to the right we draw a horizontal line and denote T1 T2.

Back construction

Neck

From point Ao to the right we measure a segment equal to Ssh: 3 + Pshgor (0.5 cm) and denote by the dot A1.

From point A1 down we draw a vertical line equal to 2.5 cm and denote 1 .

From point 1 to the left, draw a horizontal line to a straight line And he and denote A.

Points A1 and A connect with a smooth line.

Shoulder

From point a down we measure 3 cm and put a point 3 .

From point Ao through the point 3 measure out Shp (shoulder width) + 1 cm. and denote P.

Armhole

Find an auxiliary point 9 ... For this, the segment a G1 we divide into three equal parts (see fig.). Points P 9 G4 connect with a smooth line.

You can draw this line by hand or use a "droplet" pattern.

Back yoke

From point Ao down we measure 15 cm and mark it with a dot 4 ; from this point we draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the armhole line.

Back fold

From points 4 and N to the left we measure 4 cm and connect as shown in the figure.

Building a shelf

Neck

From point a2 down we measure 2 cm and denote 5 .

From point 5 measure to the left N: 3 + 1.5 cm. and denote A2.

From point 5 measure down the segment 5 A3, where 5 A3 = 5 A2 - 1.

Let's build a right angle A, 2, A2.

Points A2 A3 we connect with a smooth line by hand or along the "droplet" pattern.

Shoulder

From point a1 down we measure 5 cm and put a point 6 .

From point A2 through the point 6 measure the shoulder width Shp and denote by the dot P1.

Armhole

Now the segment a1 G3 we divide into equal 4 parts, the lower part is denoted 7 .

Connect the dots with a smooth line P1 7 G4.

Shelf coquette

From point A3 down we measure 8 cm and mark it with a dot 8 .

From point 8 to the left we draw a horizontal line to the armhole.

Shelf plank

The bar in our case is detachable.

From points A3 H2 to the right we measure 1 + 3 + 3 + 1 cm and connect as shown in the figure.

Build a sleeve

The shirt-cut sleeve differs from the set-in sleeve in greater width and lower rim height.

The height of the dowel and the degree of deepening of the armhole are interrelated. The more voluminous (wider) the shape of the product, the lower the height of the round.

To construct a sleeve, draw two mutually perpendicular lines centered at the point О1.

Okat height

Okat height - segment O1 O2- is determined depending on the shape of the product:

О1 О2 = 3-7 cm- for products of soft volumetric form - (the height of the round from 4 cm),

О1 О2 = 8-11 cm- for products of a calmer shape with moderate softness - (the height of the casing is from 4-9 cm),

О1 О2 = 12-14 cm- for products of the smallest volume - (the height of the round is 2-4 cm).

О2 Р1 = О2 Р2 = Дпр: 2, where Dpr is the length of the armhole contour, and Р1 Р2- sleeve width in unfolded form.

Sleeve width

From О2 with a radius equal to half the length of the armhole (in the drawing of the shelf and back), we do

notches on the horizontal line going through О1 and denote by dots Р1 Р2.

Segments O1 P1 and O1 P2 halve and erect perpendiculars.

Now let's define auxiliary points for decorating the sleeve ridge: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 .

Segments P1 3; 3 O2; O2 4; 4 P2, we divide in half.

Restore the perpendiculars from the points obtained.

From points 5 and 6 by 1 cm,

from point 7 - 0.5 cm, from point 8 - 1.5 cm.

Draw an okat line through the points P1 3 O2 4 P2.

The length of the sleeve

From point О2 down we measure the length of the sleeve:

O2 M = Druk.

Sleeve width at the bottom

Along a horizontal line from a point M we measure the width of the sleeve (according to the model): M M1 = M M2 = W hands... below (finished).

Slit for fastening

From point M to the left we measure 2 cm and from the resulting point up 10 cm.

Sleeve placket

Top and bottom trims are needed for the sleeve. Lower plank 3 x 10 cm.Upper plank 5 x 14 cm.

Cuff

We draw a rectangle - the width is 10 cm and the length is equal to the width of the bottom of the sleeve.

Stand collar

The collar consists of two parts - a stand and a collar.

The stand is the bottom piece, the collar is the top piece.

Rack

Before we draw the collar, measure the neckline on the shelf and back with a centimeter tape, let's say 22 cm.

We build a right angle with the apex of the angle at a point O 22 cm long and denote by a dot 22 .

From point O measure up 3 cm and mark 1 .

Divide the segment About 22 into equal 3 parts.

From point 22 we erect a perpendicular with a length of 1.5 cm and denote by a dot 2 .

Points 2 and connect the first division point with a straight line and draw it with a smooth line as shown in the figure.

From this point, we put a perpendicular 3 cm long (the height of the rack) and we get the line of the middle of the shelf and denote it with a dot 3 .

Points 3 and 1 connect with a straight line and draw with a smooth line.

Next, we draw a clasp. If the strip on the shelf is 3 cm, then along a rounded line, that is, continuing it by 1.5 cm, we get the length of the fastener. We draw it out with a smooth line and immediately mark its location in the middle of the rack.

Collar

From the segment 1, 3 from point 1 we erect a perpendicular with a length of 4 cm (the height of the collar according to the model).

Symmetrically draw the same smooth line obtained from the segment 1, 3 .

From point 3 We draw up the shape of the collar (according to the model), that is, we draw by hand.

The collar can be of any shape.

Pocket

Pockets vary by model. And we will draw such as shown in the photo.

Pocket

Draw a 12 x 16 cm rectangle. Make notches where the fold of the top of the pocket will be and shape the bottom of the pocket as shown.

Pocket flap

Draw a 12 x 6 cm rectangle and draw the bottom line of the valve as shown.

The construction of the pattern for the men's shirt has been completed.

Before laying out the parts on the fabric, check the number of parts, their name, the direction of the common thread on each of them.

For a man there is no better gift than a shirt, sewn by woman's hands! But in order for it to turn out like in a fairy tale by Vasilisa the Beautiful, it is not necessary to know magic tricks, it is enough to clearly follow our instructions. We have developed for you a pattern of a loose men's shirt with a yoke.

How to sew a shirt? It couldn't be easier! To build a drawing of a pattern for an upper men's shirt, you must take the following measurements:
1. Shirt length 75-80 centimeters
2. Shoulder length 16 cm
3. Neck semicircle -19.5 cm
4. Semi-circumference of the chest - 48 cm
5. Sleeve length - 60 cm

Rice. 1. Pattern of a man's shirt

Draw a rectangle ABCD.

Shirt width. Rectangle lines AB and DC are 60 cm (chest semicircle by measure + 12 cm for all sizes): 48 + 12 = 60 cm.

IMPORTANT! If you want to sew a fitted shirt, the increase in the semicircle of the chest should be 5.5 cm. Accordingly, all increases (for the width of the back, armholes and front of the shirt) are calculated based on this increase.

Shirt length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 75-80 cm - the length of the shirt by measure.

Armhole depth. From point A, 25 cm is laid down and point D is set (1/3 of the semicircle of the chest by measure plus 9 cm for all sizes): 48: 3 + 9 = 25.

From point G to the right, draw a straight line until it intersects with the line BC, the point of intersection is designated by the letter G1.
For size 52 and above, the depth of the armhole is no more than 26 cm.

Back width. From point G to the right, set aside 23 cm and set point G2 (1/3 of the semicircle of the chest by measure + 7 cm for all sizes): 48: 3 + 7 = 23. From point G2 draw a straight line up to the intersection with line AB and set point P.

Armhole width. From the point G2, to the right, lay 14 centimeters and put the point G3 (1/4 of the semicircle of the chest by measure plus 2 cm for all sizes): 48: 4 + 2 = 14 cm.
From point G3, draw a straight line up to the intersection with line AB and set point P1.

Side line. The width of the armhole G2G3 is divided in half, the division point is designated by the letter G4. From the point G4, a straight line is lowered down to the intersection with the DC line. The intersection point is designated by the letter N.
Side slit. From point H, 12 cm is laid up.
Auxiliary points of the shoulder and armholes. Lines ПГ2 and П1Г3 are divided into three equal parts. The lower division points are designated by the letters P2 and P3.

Building the back of a shirt

From point A to the right, lay 7 cm (1/3 of the semicircle of the neck by measure + 0.5 cm for all sizes): 19.5: 3 + 0.5 = 7 cm.
From the point of 7 cm, 3 cm is laid up.

Shoulder slope for men's shirt. From point P, 3 cm is laid down.

Shoulder line of men's shirt. From point 3 (neckline) through point 3 (shoulder tilt), draw a shoulder line 18 cm long (shoulder length by measure + 2 cm for all sizes): 16 + 2 = 18 cm.

Points P2 and G4 are connected with a dotted line, divide it in half, and from the dividing point downward at right angles to the dotted line P2G4 lay 2 centimeters. The armhole line is drawn through points 18, P2, 2, G4.
Back yoke. From point A, 8 cm is laid down. From point 8 to the right, draw a straight line and the point of intersection with the line of the armhole is designated by the letter K. Then, from point K, 1 centimeter is laid down and connected with a smooth line with the yoke line.

Crease allowance. From points 8 and D to the left, lay 4 centimeters and connect them.

Building the front of the shirt

Auxiliary line for the neckline and shoulder. From the point G1, 24 centimeters are laid up and the point W is set (1/2 of the semicircle of the chest with a measurement): 48: 2 = 24 cm.
From point W to the left, draw a straight line of arbitrary length.

The neckline of the men's shirt. From point W to the left, lay 7 centimeters (1/3 of the neck semicircle by measure plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 19.5: 3 + 0.5 = 7 cm.

Then, 7 centimeters are also laid down from point W. Points 7 are connected with a dotted line, divide it in half, and 7 centimeters are laid from point W through the dividing point of the dotted line. Points 7, 7 and 7 are connected by a concave line.

Shoulder line of men's shirt. Point 7 is connected with a dotted line with the upper division point of the PG2 line. Then, from point 7 to the left along the dotted line, lay 18 centimeters (shoulder length by measure plus 2 centimeters for all sizes): 16 + 2 = 18 cm.

Armhole line of men's shirt. The points Pz and G4 are connected with a dashed line, divided in half, and 2 centimeters are laid from the dividing point downwards at a right angle to the dashed line. The armhole line is drawn through points 18, P3, 2, G4.

Shirt placket. From point 7 and point C (the middle of the neckline), 2 cm are laid to the left and right, the resulting points are connected.

Allowance for the hem of the plank. From point E to the right, set aside 4 cm, point E1. Draw a line parallel to the plank.

Creation of a pattern of a sleeve of a man's shirt

Rice. 2. Pattern of a sleeve of a man's shirt

Draw a rectangle ABCD.

Sleeve width of a man's shirt. Rectangle lines AB and DC are equal to 48 cm (chest semicircle by measure).

Sleeve length of a man's shirt. Lines AD and BC are equal to 56 cm (length of the sleeve by measure minus 4 centimeters - half the width of the cuff) 60 - 4 = 56 cm.
Sleeve ridge height. From point A, 10 centimeters are laid down and point P is set (1/6 of the semicircle of the chest by measure plus 2 centimeters for all sizes): 48: 6 + 2 = 10 cm.
From point P to the right, draw a straight line to the intersection with the line BC, the point of intersection is designated by the letter P1.

Sleeve line. The AB line is divided in half and the dividing point is denoted by the letter O, from which a straight line is lowered down to the intersection with the DC line and denoted by the letter N. Points P and O are connected with a dashed line, divide it in half and from the dividing point upwards at right angles to the dotted line are laid 1.5 centimeters. Then points O and P1 are connected with a dotted line, divide it into three equal parts. From the top point of division, 1 centimeter is laid up, and from the bottom down - 0.5 centimeters. The armhole line is drawn through points P, 1.5, O, 1, the midpoint of the division of the line OP1, points 0.5, P1.

Side lines of the sleeve. From point D to the right, and from point C to the left, lay 6 cm (1/8 of the semicircle of the chest by measure): 48: 8 = 6 cm. Points P and 6 and P1 and 6 are connected.

Slit for sleeve closure. The distance from point 6 (left) to point H is divided in half and 2 centimeters are laid from the point of division to the left and then 10-12 centimeters upward.

Bottom placket for decorating the sleeve closure. The length of the strap is 11 centimeters (the length of the slit for the sleeve closure plus 1 centimeter reserve): 10 + 1 = 11. The plank width is 3 cm.

Top placket for decorating the sleeve closure. The length of the strap is 14 centimeters (the length of the slit for the sleeve fastening plus 4 centimeters for the design of the toe): 10 + 4 = 14 cm.The width of the strap is 5 cm.
How to sew a sleeve with a curly placket correctly? See the Basic Operations section for detailed instructions.

IMPORTANT! Additionally, it is necessary to cut out 2 parts for processing shirt strips on shelves, 75 cm long and 4 cm wide, with 1 cm seam allowances on all sides.

Shirt cuff pattern

Rice. 4. Pattern of the collar of a man's shirt

Draw a rectangle ABCD.

Collar width. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 11 cm.

Collar length. Rectangle lines AB and DC are equal to 22 cm (half-girth of the neck by measure plus 2.5 cm for all sizes): 19.5 + 2.5 = 22 cm.

Collar stand. From point D, 3 cm is laid up and then a straight line is drawn to the right until it intersects with the BC line and 2 centimeters are laid to the left from the point of intersection, and 0.5 centimeters upward and connect them. From point C, 1.5 cm is laid up, then the DC line is divided in half, and from the point of division, a line is drawn through point 1.5 and then beyond the BC line by 0.5 cm. Points 0.5 and 0.5 are connected.

I sew men's shirts according to these patterns.
I bring to your attention

Patterns of men's shirts of the fitted silhouette

How to use the schemes:
draw on the sheet yourself, using the dimensions. It is convenient to draw on millimeter marks. In order to save money, I use the reverse side of cheap wallpaper, because I build a lot of patterns, but I do not store them at the end of the work.

If you have a tablet, then put it in front of you: my site is adapted for mobile devices, and the photos are formatted to fit the screen.

Be careful with sizing and do not use ready-made schemes thoughtlessly. I built these blueprints by standard measurements for the average man.

1. Take basic measurements from your particular man:
circumference of the chest, waist, neck.

2. Check the measurements against the data in the drawings. The allowance for a free fit should be present even in fitted, form-fitting shirts.
Tailors use half-girth measurements.

For example, half the chest circumference is 50 cm (100: 2), an increase in freedom of movement to this measurement is at least 4 centimeters. The width of the drawing must be at least (50 + 4) 54 cm. Adjust the length and width of the drawing if necessary.

free pattern shirt size 48

free pattern shirt size 50

free pattern shirt size 52

For sewing, the following master classes may be useful to you:

Good luck in sewing.
reference table for convenience: