If you decide to sew a dress, the first thing to start with is to take measurements and build, according to which you can model any style. Today we will give you a step-by-step construction of a dress base pattern.
But for starters - .

To build a drawing of a pattern-base for a women's dress, you need to take measurements (size 48):

1. Bust 96cm
2. Girth above bust 88 cm
3. Waist 76cm
4. Hips 102 cm
5. hip height 20 cm
6. Front length to waist 47 cm
7. Back length to waist 43 cm
8. Shoulder length 12cm
9. Neck girth 38 cm
10. Center of the chest (distance between the high points of the chest) 22 cm
11. Armhole depth 20.5 cm
12. Dress length 100 cm

IMPORTANT! All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Chest Circumference (CG) of more than 80 cm.

School of Sewing Anastasia Korfiati
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Where to begin?

Before you start building the base pattern of the dress, decide on the silhouette. It is important for yourself to determine what kind of dress you want to sew: tight-fitting, semi-tight or loose. Proceeding from this, make an increase in the freedom of fitting the product.

We build a dress of an adjacent silhouette and take an increase in freedom of fitting to the half-girth of the chest by 1.5 cm (see).

Auxiliary value calculation

Let's calculate the auxiliary values ​​that we need when building a pattern:

Back Width (SHS). Formula for calculation: 1/8 OG +5.5 cm = 17.5 cm

Armhole Width (SHPr). Formula for calculation: 1/8OG -1.5 cm = 10.5

Chest Width (WH). Formula for calculation: 1/4OG -4 cm = 20 cm

Armhole depth (GPr). We measure it or, to check the measurements, we calculate it according to the formula Gpr \u003d 1 / 10OG + 10.5 \u003d 20.5 cm. If the calculated value does not match the measured value, take the average between them.

Step back from the top of the sheet down 10-15 cm and put point A in the upper left corner. Draw a vertical line 100 cm long down from point A (the length of the dress according to the measurements). To the right of point A, draw a horizontal line with a length equal to 1/2 of the circumference of the chest according to the measure of +1.5 cm (increase in freedom of fitting) - points D and B are obtained - draw segments DC and BC.

Armhole line. From point A, lay down the Depth of the armhole according to the measure + 0.5 cm (increase in freedom of fitting from) - point G is obtained. Draw a horizontal line ГГ1.

From point G to the right, set aside the Back Width + 0 cm (for freedom of fitting) and the Width of the armhole + 0.5 cm (for freedom of fitting), the width of the chest + 1 cm. In total, we made an increase of 0 + 0.5 + 1 \u003d 1.5 cm - this is the increase that we laid above. From the obtained points, draw vertical lines up to the intersection with AB.

Waistline. From point A down, set the length of the back to the waist according to the measurement - point T. Draw a segment TT1.

Hip line. Set aside 20 cm from point T down - the height of the hips according to the measure - point L. Draw a segment LL1.

Side line. Divide the width of the armhole with the increase in half, from the division point, draw down the vertical line of the side to the intersection with DC. Divide the left and right auxiliary vertical lines of the armhole into 4 equal parts (red crosses).

Back neckline. From point A, set aside 6.8 cm to the right (1/6 of the circumference of the neck according to the measure + 0.5 cm) and up 2 cm (for all sizes). Build a curved line for the neckline of the back.

Back shoulder. On the left auxiliary line of the armhole, set aside 1.5 cm from the top down. Connect points 2 (back neckline) and 1.5 (shoulder slope) with a straight line, set aside along it Shoulder length by measurement + 1 cm = 12 + 1 = 13 cm In the process of sewing the product, the length of the back shoulder is slightly adjusted.

Back armhole line. From the lower left corner (width of the armhole), draw a bisector of the angle 2-2.5 cm long and or freehand draw the armhole of the back, based on the control points: point 13, the middle auxiliary division point, point 2, to the side line.

Shelf lift. From the point T1, set aside 47 cm upwards (The length of the front to the waist according to the measure) - the point W is obtained. From the point W, draw a horizontal line to the left. Extend the right vertical line of the armhole up (see Fig. 7).

Front neckline. From the W point to the left, set aside 6.8 cm (1/6 Neck circumference + 0.5 cm) and down 7.8 cm (1/6 Neck circumference + 1.5 cm). Draw the neckline of the front along the pattern (or by hand) (Fig. 8).

Shoulder front to tuck. From point 6.8 (neck), set aside 4 cm to the left and 1 cm down (for all sizes). Draw a short sloping line (Fig. 9).

From point 1 down, draw a segment 1-G2 to the armhole line (GG1) so that G1G2 \u003d 11 cm (1/2 measurements Center of the chest) - the right side of the chest tuck is built.

Chest tuck. Divide the right side of the chest tuck in half and draw a horizontal line 4 cm long from the dividing point (Half girth of the chest minus Half girth above the chest: 48-44 \u003d 4 cm). Pass through point 4 the left side of the breast tuck with a length equal to the length of the right side of the breast tuck (Fig. 10).

Front shoulder line. Draw an auxiliary dotted line from the top point of the left side of the chest tuck to the top point of dividing the auxiliary line of the back armhole (Fig. 11).

On the auxiliary dotted line, set aside 8 cm (12 cm (shoulder length according to the measurement) minus 4 cm (shoulder length to the right side of the chest tuck) and down at a right angle 2 cm (for all sizes). Draw a front shoulder line (Fig. 12) .

From the extreme point of the front shoulder, draw an auxiliary dotted line to the lower point of dividing the auxiliary line of the armhole, divide it in half (Fig. 13). Draw a bisector 2 cm long from the lower right corner (armhole).

From the division point of the auxiliary dotted line, set aside at a right angle 1 cm to the right (Fig. 13). According to the template or by hand, draw the armhole in front along the control points: point 2 (shoulder), point 1, point 2 (angle bisector), to the side line.

Dart calculation:

Darts are calculated as follows: 1/2 Bust minus 1/2 Waist = 48-38 = 10 cm. This excess fabric around the waist, which must be removed in the darts. We remove 1/3 of the obtained value into the side tucks and 2/3 - into the back and shelf - a little more in the back (4 cm) and a little less in the shelf (3 cm).

Side darts: 10 cm / 3 \u003d 3.3 cm (round - 1.5 cm in the back and in the shelf) (Fig. 14).

IMPORTANT! To calculate the lack of volume in the hips, we apply the formula: (Hip circumference minus Chest circumference) / 4 \u003d (102-96) / 4 \u003d 1.5 cm (set aside 1.5 cm along the hip line from the Side Line to the left and right and draw lines sides of the back and front of the dress.

Back tuck: divide the width of the back waist to the side seam in half and draw a vertical line from the dividing point to the armhole line and the hip line. Draw a tuck as shown in Fig. 15: divide the distance T-1.5 in half, put a cross and draw a vertical dotted line through it up and down. From the line of the armhole, lay down 3-4 cm, from the line of the hips up 2 cm. Build a back tuck with a width of 4 cm.

Tail tuck in front. Draw an auxiliary perpendicular from the top of the chest tuck to the waist line. From point G2, set aside 5-6 cm down and draw a tuck 3 cm deep as shown in fig. 15.

ADVICE! If you have a narrow waist and a "kinky" back, excess fabric can be removed in the middle seam along the back and an additional tuck (see Fig. 16 blue lines). To build an additional tuck in front, set aside 3 cm from the lower right corner of the armhole to the right and draw a vertical dotted line down to the hip line. From the armhole line along the auxiliary vertical dotted line, set aside 7-8 cm down, from the hip line up - 1.5 cm. Build a tuck 2 cm deep.

For additional fitting along the middle seam of the back, build a tuck 1-1.5 cm deep and connect the resulting point with points L and G with a smooth line.

Rice. 17. Basic pattern of the back and front in finished form

If necessary, build or

You can start creating a base pattern in sizes 44-58 for a dress, blouse or jacket. I have been using this method for 18 years already, its main advantages are that the pattern is built easily, quickly, logically, and very accurately. 7 minutes is enough for me, along with the calculations. On the fitting, a small adjustment in volume and length is enough.

The principle is the same, only allowances for free fit differ. For a pattern-base of a dress and a blouse, 6 cm is enough, for a jacket of a fitted silhouette - 8 cm, for a coat, depending on the style, 10-16.

Pattern-base 44-58 sizes for dresses, blouses, jackets.

So it’s better to explain using a specific example, then we will learn how to build a base pattern for a blouse or dress of size 48.

About how more precisely, in the next article.

Our pattern will be up to the hip line. For a dress with a straight silhouette, it is enough to continue it to the required length.

Basic measurements.

Back measurements.

Dst (back length to waist) - 41

Shsp (back width) - 35

W shoulder - 12

Front measurements.

Dpt (front length to waist) - 43.5

SH (chest height) - 26.5

CG (centre of the chest) - 18

Vgk (chest height oblique) - 24

SHG (chest width) - 37

Gp (armhole depth) - 20

Necessary preliminary calculations.

The peculiarity of this method is that the main measure when constructing a base pattern is the chest girth. A control line is drawn through the point of the exhaust gas transmission, and all other measurements are postponed, based on calculations, relative to this line.

We calculate the OG for the base pattern: we add an allowance for a free fit to the measurement of the OG. In our example - 6 cm. Then we divide in half.

OG \u003d 96 + 6 \u003d 102: 2 \u003d 51: 2 \u003d 25.5

According to the rules for constructing a pattern - the basis, and in order for the product to look beautiful on the figure, the front pattern should be wider than the back pattern. Therefore, to the resulting measurement of 25.5, for the front half, add 0.5, and for the back, subtract.

Before: 25.5 + 0.5 = 26

Back: 25.5 - 0.5 = 25

Calculation of darts on the waist line.

In order to determine the size of the side darts, front and back, add 3-4 cm to the waist circumference and divide in half: FROM = 75 + 3 = 78: 2 = 39

Then, from half the value of the exhaust gas with an allowance, we subtract the resulting figure:

(96 + 6) : 2 = 51 – 39 = 12.

12 cm - the sum of all tucks. There are 4 of them on the pattern: two side ones, front and back tucks.

3 cm - the value of each tuck and deflection of the side seam from the auxiliary line.

Calculation of the line of the hips.

3-4 cm are added to the circumference of the hips for a free fit: 101 + 3 = 104: 2 = 52.

The difference between half of the OB with allowances and half of the OG with allowances is plotted from the control line. If the hips are narrow, then the lateral front line will be shifted to the right, if wide - to the left.

In our example, the calculated half of the OG = 51, and half of the OB = 52. The difference is only a centimeter. Therefore, when building the front, we will need to set aside 0.5 cm to the left of the control line, and when building the back, to the right.

52 - 51 = 1: 2 = 0,5

We build a grid - the main lines of the base pattern.

It is more convenient to build a pattern on tracing paper. If all measurements are measured accurately, and the calculations are made correctly, then you will get the same beautiful and proportional pattern as in the top collage.

From point 1 (upper right corner) draw a vertical and horizontal line. On the vertical line, lay down Dtp (length of the front to the waist). We draw a horizontal waist line.

The hip line is located 18-22 cm lower, depending on height. On average, I draw a line at a distance of 20 cm, both when constructing patterns for a dress or jacket, and for the base pattern of a skirt.

The chest line is drawn from the waist line at a distance, which is calculated as follows:

From the measurement of the armhole depth (Gpr), 1.5-2 cm is deducted for a dress or sleeveless top, 2-2.5 cm for a dress with a single-seam sleeve, 2.5-3 cm for a fitted jacket, 3-7 cm for coat, depending on the style of the sleeve.

The value of this measurement for size 48 is 19-23 cm, in our example it is 20 cm.

Gpr \u003d 20 - 2 \u003d 18 cm. Set aside 18 cm from the waist line up and draw a horizontal line of the chest.

Building a front pattern.

From the top corner, from point 1, set aside to the left and down 7.5 cm for sizes 46-48. For 50-56 - 8 cm. This value is half the width of the neck. You can deepen or expand it when modeling. Point 2.

From point 2 to the left, measure 9 cm on the vertical line of the grid of the pattern, put point 3, at a distance of 3 cm from it, put point 4 down, connect points 2 and 4 - this is the slope of the shoulder line. Set aside 7-8 cm on the line and put a point 5.

On the chest line, set aside 26 cm from the center of the front to the left (half the OG + 0.5 cm) and put a point 6. Draw a vertical line to the intersection with the hip line. Put point 7 on the waist line, and point 8 on the hip line.

We build the top of the front.

From point 5 on the shoulder line, set aside a distance equal to the size of the chest tuck.

The size of the chest tuck for sizes 42-60.

The first digit is the exhaust gas without allowances, the second is the size of the tuck.

82 - 84 cm - 6.5 cm

88 - 90 cm - 7.5 cm

95 - 96 cm - 8.5 cm

100 cm - 9.5 cm

104 - 105 cm - 11 cm

110 - 112 cm - 12.5 cm

122 - 125 cm - 15 cm

For size 48, from point 5, continuing the shoulder line, set aside the width of the chest tuck 8.5 cm to the left. Put point 9.

From point 2 down, set aside VG and put a point CG. The distance from it to the line of the middle of the front is half the distance of the measurement of the center of the chest (CG) with an allowance of 1 - 2 cm:

(18 + 1) = 19: 2 = 9.5 cm

From this point down, draw a vertical line - the center of the front tuck. Its width is, for our example, 3 cm. Set aside 1.5 cm on both sides of the line. Connect the CG point and the tuck points.

We draw a chest tuck.

To do this, we connect points 5 and 9 with the CG point.

Chest and shoulder width lines.

In order to carry them out and postpone the measured measurements, we fold the tracing paper with the pattern as in the collage drawing: both lines of the chest tuck should match. Secure the tuck with pins.

Then continue the line of the shoulder and put a point corresponding to the measured measurement: 12 cm

We draw a line of chest width: we divide, approximately, the distance of the height of the front to the waist (Vpt) in half, and draw it 2 cm higher. We set aside a measurement equal to (SHG + 1): 2 = 18. If you are not sure that the front or back width measurements are measured correctly, add 2 cm - you will cut off the extra allowance during the fitting.

Measure VGK (oblique chest height) - control. Everyone's shoulder slope is different. For sloping shoulders, you will need to draw the line of the shoulder lower than the drawn line, in accordance with the measurement of the VGK, and for sports-type figures - higher.

After specifying the width and slope of the shoulder line, chest width, straighten the pattern and draw the armhole line through the points of the shoulder, chest width and point 6.

Side darts.

The side seams of the front and back patterns must match exactly, both in bend and in length. The size of the side tuck, according to our calculations, is 3 cm. Set them aside from the control line, from point 7 to the right.

Hip line.

For our example, according to calculations, it is necessary to set aside only 0.5 cm to the left of the control line.

Connect all the points obtained: on the line of the chest, waist and hips. The construction of the front pattern is completed.

Back pattern.

It's much easier to build. On the fold line of the pattern, we set aside, from the waist line up, a measurement equal to the length of the back (Dst) = 41 cm

Just as in the construction of the front pattern, set aside the width of the neckline, 7.5 cm for size 48, only to the right - point 10.

From the received point we measure 9 cm to the right and 2.5 - down. We draw a shoulder line and set aside the measured measurement - 12 cm.

The depth of the neckline along the back, as a rule, is 2 - 2.5 cm. From point 10 to the left, we draw a smooth line of the neckline of the back.

To build a pattern for full figures, I advised you to measure an additional measure - the height of the back from 7 vertebrae to the waist. In principle, you can simply draw a deeper neck line - 3 cm.

On the chest line, set aside the calculated measurement: back OG (OG + 6): 2) - 0.5 cm = 25 cm Draw a control line down. Along the waist line, immediately set aside the size of the side tuck - 3 cm

Back width line.

Divide the distance between the shoulder line and the OG line of the back in half, and draw 1 cm lower, closer to the OG line. In our example, WSp = 35 cm

(35 + 2) : 2 = 18.5 cm

Back tuck.

Divide the calculated measurement of the OG of the back in half, then set aside the resulting figure minus 0.5-1 cm from the fold line - this way the tuck looks more neat, and the product: a blouse, dress or jacket, fits the back softer. Dart size - 3 cm

Sometimes, when there is a very noticeable kink in the back, I change the size of the front and back darts. I reduce the front ones by 0.5-1 cm, and increase them on the back.

On the hip line to the right, set aside the calculated value, the same as when constructing the front pattern. In our example, this is 0.5 cm. Draw a side seam line, gently rounding it at the waist line.

In order to adjust the constructed base pattern, buy a meter of inexpensive cotton fabric - this will be enough for the main pattern and for the pattern of a short one-sutural sleeve.

Products with a central seam on the back: dresses and jackets, it is easier to adjust when trying on, they more accurately fit the figure, slimming, as the total volume is “broken down” into vertical components.

You can cut out the back with a central seam - the pattern will be more accurate. In order not to change the volume along the waist line, reduce the tuck of the back by 1 cm, and make a smooth deflection of 1 cm on the line of the central seam

When cutting out the halves of the front of the base pattern, add an allowance of 2.5-3 cm along the middle line, so that it is more convenient to fix the volume with pins during the fitting. On the right shelf, fold to the wrong side and sweep, and on the left - draw or sweep the middle line.

During fitting, fasten the shelves exactly along these lines. If the cut base turned out to be wide or narrow, adjust the volume due to side seams and darts.

When basting, it is important to accurately align the notches on the waist line: the front and back should not be shifted relative to each other. If the front half of the product is shifted down, oblique creases form from the side seam in the direction from the bottom up. If it is shifted upwards, the creases can be both on the back and on the shelf in the chest area.

If the measurements are measured accurately, and the base pattern is built correctly, then you will try on quickly, without significant changes. How to model a dress, jacket or vest using this pattern - in the following articles.

A dress with a straight cut is an interesting narrow dress that clearly fits the girl's shape and emphasizes the necessary curves. This style perfectly adds femininity and tenderness to the image, creates an elegant and cute style. Every woman needs to have such a thing in her wardrobe, because it is universal and perfect for both everyday walks and for a festive event. This dress has been considered one of the most popular types of clothing for more than a hundred years. The secret of such demand among designers, stylists and just lovers of looking good lies in the cut suitable for almost all body types. You can cut out a long or short dress with a straight silhouette using a ready-made pattern, which can be downloaded from the Internet for free - patterns of straight dresses are widely represented on the net.

Of course, you can buy a similar item of clothing in any store or on the Internet, but the dress will be more pleasant to wear if it is created by hand. In addition, it will help to improve the skill in such a matter and will make it possible to dilute the dress with original decorations and decorations. The advantage is that you can create an absolutely unique and one of a kind thing.

This article will look at several ways to create a straight dress pattern easily and without difficulty. It is worth mentioning that such a process is not difficult even for beginner needlewomen, but it requires a huge amount of patience and a lot of concentration.

Pattern is what where to start working on any dress. To create a correct and competent pattern, cut the fabric correctly and not spoil the future dress, you need to take measurements from the figure and perform all the calculations. After that comes the process of building and designing. Parsing a pattern is not a difficult process, but it can take a lot of time, so you need to be prepared and have enough patience.

Measurements for building a simple pattern

To create a high-quality and competent drawing, and then qualitatively tailor a future product, you need to know the following measurements for the model:

Sometimes girls, especially those who have just started sewing, have questions about how to take measurements correctly. This is not difficult - any magazine and articles for beginners have a detailed description of what how to use terms correctly and decide on the size.

You can use the standard values ​​for sizes.

Dress pattern size 42

1. Neck girth - 35 cm.
2. Bust - 84 cm.
3. Waist - 64 cm.
4. Hip circumference - 90 cm.
5. Back width - 34.5 cm.
6. Back length - 41.5 cm.
7. Chest height - 26 cm.
8. Front length - 44 cm.
9. Sleeve height - 11 cm.
10. Shoulder width - 27 cm.
11. Skirt length - 60 cm.

Dress pattern size 46

Dress pattern size 52

1. Neck girth - 40 cm.
2. Bust - 104 cm.
3. Waist - 84 cm.
4. Hip circumference - 110 cm.
5. Back width - 39.5 cm.
6. Back length - 44.5 cm.
7. Chest height - 42 cm.
8. Front length - 49 cm.
9. Sleeve height - 12 cm.
10. Shoulder width - 32 cm.
11. Skirt length - 65 cm.

Dress pattern size 56

Amount of fabric consumed

• Increase to the chest - 4 cm.
• Increase to the waist - 3 cm.
• Increase to the hips - 2 cm.
• Increase to the width of the back - 0.5 cm.

Fabric for this type products are calculated for one expense with an increase in the length of the sleeve. If there are additional details and decorations, folds, collars, then you need to use additional fabric for this. In addition, the fabric can go to the circumference of the hips, so if it exceeds 120 cm, then you will have to buy more materials - double the amount of regular fabric and 10 cm just in case. To all other, don't forget that that the material for allowances and hem should be added to the total amount of fabric. It is often advised for beginners to select bright and patterned fabrics, since if there are sewing errors, this will help to hide the flaws.

The pattern requires the use of graph paper - this will help save time on drawing accurate lines. Of course, you can use any other type of paper for convenience, but millimetric paper allows you to immediately use natural sizes.

It is worth remembering that the construction dress patterns really important and demanding work, so before you start creating a product, you need to read the entire manual from beginning to end. Subsequently, it may turn out that this method is too complicated or not what it seemed in my head. There are too many recommendations on the Internet, and sometimes you just need to figure it out on your own in order to do everything efficiently the first time.

How to create the basis for a straight dress

When all measurements are taken, you can begin to create a pattern for the base of the dress. Usually the first step is to create a grid that will include all the necessary lines for the chest, waist, etc.

First of all, you need mark a point in the left corner of the paper - A. From it a line is drawn to the right with the size of half the measurement of the chest circumference with the addition of 4 centimeters for a loose fit. After that, you can create a waist line - from point A, a line is drawn down with a measure equal to the length of the back, taking into account one more centimeter.

The point located on the drawn segment of the waist is denoted by the letter P. From this point we draw another segment about 20 centimeters long and mark the letters K - this point will denote the hips. We draw another line from it, equal to the length of the skirt. You can call the segment T.

After that, it is necessary to draw a segment for the length of the chest - I. From the height of the armhole, add about 1 centimeter and add the segment AA1. Further from A1, a line is drawn down and several points are created on the resulting segment. Lines are drawn horizontally from them to the right and one more point is indicated at their intersection. Thus, the grid is already ready and you can proceed directly to the very pattern of the base of the dress.

It should be borne in mind that the pattern is made in full size, so if plain paper or a small size is used, then gluing with adhesive tape may be necessary.

After the mesh has been created, you need to determine where the armholes are. To do this, you need to find the line that is responsible for the width of the back (II1) and add 1 centimeter to it. From the last point I1, you need to draw a segment up and put point A2.

After that, another segment is carried out from I1 to I3, which is equal to half the length of the “chest width” measurement, to which four more centimeters and a chest half-girth line are added. From point I3, you also need to draw a segment up and mark point A3.

Basic pattern for the back half of the dress

So, you need to draw a segment AA4, which will include half the length of the neck circumference with the addition of one centimeter. This segment must be divided into three parts and get a new value AA5. Worth remembering that this tuck procedure is optional if special types of fabric are used for the dress, which tend to stretch. They also include knitted fabrics.

After that, you need to draw an even arc from the point marked A4 - you can use a compass so that the radius is exactly equal to the length of the sleeve. As soon as the arc is made, you need to set the radius with the size of the height of the shoulder from the back, adding one centimeter. The leg must be placed at point P and make another arc. Two arcs will form a point, which must be designated as P1. From this point, you should draw a segment to the left to the line A2I2 and put the point A7.

From this point A7 you need to define a new point I5. To do this, we consider I2I5 = I2A7, which are divided into three parts and add two centimeters. After that, divide I2I3 in half and set one more point I4 in the center.

Usually, for to make it easier to build a pattern, download ready-made constructions on the Internet and compare them. This is a great way to insure yourself in case of wrong lines or calculations, but you also need to take into account the fact that the patterns may visually differ due to different sizes and measurements.

Main front half pattern

Work on the base of the front half of the dress begins by determining the location of point A8. To do this, you can use the calculations, where I1A8 is the length of the front, to which one more centimeter is added. From the resulting point A8, you should draw the line A8A9, which should be equal to the length of AA4 and define another point - U. From point A8, you should draw the line A8A10, which should approximately equal 9 or 10 centimeters.

I1I8 is half the measurement of the circumference of the chest, that is, you need to determine the distance between the peaks of the mammary gland and divide these dimensions in half, given the addition of one centimeter. On this line you need to put a point I9. From this point I9, a vertical segment should be determined, which must be exactly parallel to the line A1T.

Using a compass and point A9, you can make an arc on this resulting vertical segment, where the radius of the compass must be exactly equal to chest height measurements. Point I9 is ​​put there. From this point, draw another line, which will be located in the direction of the segment AA1 and draw an arc with a radius = chest height measurements.

Next, a complex formula is used: you need to double the difference from the lower half-girth of the chest and the upper half-girth of the chest, adding two centimeters to the resulting product. The value derived from this formula will be equal to the radius of the arc from point A9 - the intersection of two arcs should be obtained (one of which is the one that was done before). Point A11 is placed at this intersection.

It is worth drawing another I3A12 line, which should be an exact reflection of the I2A7 line with a subtraction of one centimeter. Using a compass, you should draw an arc from I3, the radius of which is equal to the value of the line I3A12. After that, from the same point, you need to make another arc so that the line A11A13 appears. The radius should be the same as the arm length measurement. After that, point A13 is set.

The resulting segment I3A12 must be divided into three parts and a new point I10 must be indicated. From it you need to draw a segment to A13 and make a smooth armhole line.

It must be remembered that to create a straight dress with a 3/4 sleeve, you need to additionally sew all the parts.

Recommendations when creating a pattern for a straight dress

Now you can transfer the lines to separate special sheets, not necessarily to graph paper. It is worth paying attention that you need to leave a few centimeters for allowances for the finished pattern. It is advisable to cut on cheap materials - this will allow you to change the style if it came out unsuccessfully, correct minor flaws and roughly see how the future product will look like. After everything fittings will be held and you will like the resulting model, you can transfer the pattern to thick paper or film.

The pattern was developed by fashion designer Annet Massimo, digitized, adapted and translated by the editors of the "Casket" website.

An elegant little dress, the cut features of which present the female figure in the most attractive light. The ability to use a lighter companion fabric visually removes centimeters at the waist and hips. The original cut of the sleeve, the bust accentuated by tucks, the emphasis on the graceful waist and chiseled hips give the dress a special femininity. Moderate length to the middle of the knee - a classic option that suits almost any type of figure.

Non-woven hot-melt adhesive material (non-woven) of medium hardness should be used as a gasket.

cutting

Below is one of the layout options for fabric 1.4 meters wide. A size 46 pattern was used (European measurement table, see below).

Carry out the layout of the parts in the quantity given below:

From base material:

The upper part of the shelf - 1 child. with a fold;

The middle part of the shelf - 1 child. with a fold;

The lower part of the shelf - 1 child. with a fold;

A barrel of a shelf - 2 children;

The central part of the back - 2 children;

Back barrel - 2 children;

The upper part of the sleeve - 2 children;

The lower part of the sleeve - 2 children;

Turning the neck of the shelf - 1 child. with a fold;

Turning the neck of the back - 2 children.

From interlining:

Laying the facing of the neck of the shelf - 2 children;

Laying of a facing of a mouth of a back - 2 children;

Slotted gasket - 1 pc.

Cut out details from the main material with 1.5 cm seam allowances, 3 cm for the hem of the bottom of the dress and sleeves.

The gasket is cut out in such a way that it goes under the stitching seam by 0.3 cm. You can also duplicate the allowances for the hem of the bottom of the dress and sleeves, as well as the allowances of the middle seam of the back in the area of ​​the zipper, with a thin interlining.

Manufacturing steps.

1. Duplicate the details with non-woven fabric.

2. On the top of the shelf, we notice the folds to the line of the middle of the part. Folds can be fixed with a large machine stitch 0.3 cm from the edge. We iron.

3. We sew the upper and middle parts of the shelf. We overcast the seam allowances and iron them towards the middle part. If the fabric is dense, then iron the seam allowances.

4. We sew the middle and lower parts of the shelf. We overcast the seam allowances and iron them towards the middle part. If the fabric is dense, then iron the seam allowances.

5. We grind the shelf assembled from three parts with a barrel. Overcast seam allowances and iron on the shelf.

6. We sew the central parts of the back along the middle cut. On the section of the zipper and slots, we lay a large machine line. Overcast seam allowances and iron. Large lines are removed. We sew a zipper.

7. We iron the slots allowance on the right side of the back. Overcast allowances, bend 0.5 ... 0.7 cm to the wrong side and build up. (Natalia! On your technical drawing, the slot is shown in the wrong direction).

8. We sew the central part of the back with the side. We overcast the seam allowances and iron them to the center.

9. We sew the shoulder and side sections of the back and shelf parts. Overcast seam allowances and iron towards the back.

10. We sew the facings of the back and shelves along the shoulder sections. Iron the seam allowances. We overcast the lower cut of the facings.

11. We put the facings on the shelf and back with the right sides to each other, we stab and grind the cuts of the neck. In the area of ​​​​the zipper, the ends of the facing of the neck of the back should be turned outward. On curved sections, the allowances are notched close to the line. Above the zipper we cut the allowance into a corner.

12. Bend the facings to the wrong side. We iron. Manually sew the facings to the allowances of the shoulder seams of the dress and to the zipper braid.

13. We note the folds on the upper part of the sleeve. You can lay a line 0.3 cm from the edge, fixing the folds. We iron.

14. We connect the upper and lower parts of the sleeve. We overcast the seam allowances and iron them towards the bottom.

15. We sew the lower sections of the sleeves. Overcast the seam allowances and iron them back (toward the back).

16. Iron the hem allowance on the bottom of the sleeves on the wrong side, overcast and manually hem.

17. Stitch the sleeve into the armhole. Overcast the seam allowances and iron on the sleeve.

18. The hem allowance for the bottom of the dress is ironed on the wrong side, overcast and hemmed by hand. We fix the ends of the slots on the allowance for the bottom hem.

Paid Sizes

Size chart for this pattern (in centimeters):

European size, height 168cm	34	36	38	40	42	44	46
Bust	80	84	88	92	96	100	104
Waist	62	66	70	74	78	82	86
Hip girth	84	90	94	98	102	106	110
​	Payment for goods Buy	Payment for goods Buy	Payment for goods

Hello my dear! Now an endless world of dress models will open before you, because when you make your own perfect base pattern, shot according to your measurements - you can build absolutely any dress that your fantasy tells you. And you will have to work a little only once - now.

So don't let the large number of letters and numbers in the drawing scare you, in fact make a base pattern will be a feasible task for you, because I will tell you about it in simple terms.

What will the building consist of?

We will draw half of the back and half of the front of the dress.

But first we need to decide what silhouette of the dress we want. Silhouettes are:

• tight fitting
• Adjoined
• semi-adjacent
• Straight

For example, I will build a pattern for you in size 46.

Dress length=85cm

For a snug fit, I'll take the following raises:

I wrote more about supplements above.

Don't let this drawing scare you, we will make it in parts and in four stages:

• let's build a grid
• upper back
• top front
• bottom of the dress from the waist with darts

Building a GRID

For your drawing, take better graph paper. She's the most comfortable. Instead of my initial data, substitute in the calculations your taken measurements, and it will be VERY EASY for you to build a drawing this way.

Set point A.

1. AH down = hem line level = product length = 85 cm
2. AT down \u003d waist line level \u003d Dts + Pdts \u003d 42.9 + 1 \u003d 43.9
3. AG down \u003d armhole line level \u003d Vprz + Pspr \u003d 21.3 + 2.5 \u003d 23.8
4. TB down = hip line level = Dlb = 20 (this is the standard)

For a better fit in the back area and for vertical side seams, you need to make a withdrawal of the middle line of the back, for this we draw a horizontal line from the T point. On it we postpone TT "to the right = 1.5 cm (this is the standard). Draw a straight line through point T and point A. Now all calculations will be made from points G, T. Mark them on your drawing.

We draw horizontal lines from all points.

Now we determine the width of the grid = Г»Г1 = Сг3 + Пг = 46 + 3 = 49

We make a kind of frame for the drawing (grid). On the right side we put points A1, G1, T1, B1, H1.

We set aside the back width \u003d Г»Г2 to the right \u003d Ws + 0.2 × Pg \u003d 17.7 + 0.2 × 3 \u003d 18.3

Set aside the width of the front \u003d Wg + 0.1 × Pg + 0.5 (Cr2-Cr1) \u003d 16.8 + 0.1 × 3 + 0.5 (48.2-44.2) \u003d 19.1

We check the width of the armhole on the drawing:

• armhole width G2G3 \u003d W mesh - W back - W front \u003d 49 - 18.3 - 19.1 \u003d 11.6

Divide G2G3 in half = position of the side seam = draw a vertical down from the point G4.

Back construction

1. AU Down = level of the bottom of the shoulder blades \u003d 0.4 × Dts \u003d 0.4 × 42.9 \u003d 17.2 We set aside from point A down and at a right angle to the outlet.
2. AA2 right = back neck width \u003d 1/3 Ssh + Pshgs \u003d 18.3 / 3 + 1 \u003d 7.1
3. A2A21 down = back neck depth \u003d 1/3 AA2 + Pvgs \u003d 7.1 / 3 + 0.2 \u003d 2.6

Shoulder slope: is found using two radii (R):

• R1 \u003d A2P1 \u003d Shp + shoulder tuck (1.5 cm - standard) + shoulder extension \u003d 13.2 + 1.5 + 0.5 \u003d 15.2 (we put the compass at point A2 and make an arc at a distance of 15.2, as in the figure below)

• (R2) \u003d T "P1 \u003d Vpks + Pdts \u003d 42.9 +1 \u003d 43.9 (we put the compass at point T "and set aside an arc of 43.9 cm; the point of intersection of two arcs is P1)

We are building shoulder tuck on the slope of the shoulder:

from point A2 to the right we set aside 4 cm (this is a constant value). We draw a vertical from it down - this is the left side of the tuck. Set aside from point 4 to the right along the shoulder line 1.5 cm (undercut). And draw the right side of the tuck, equalize both sides of the tuck.

If you sew the tuck as a tuck without modeling, then the length of the tuck is 10-12 cm. If the tuck is transferred to the side of the chest, we make the tuck to the line of the shoulder blades. (marked in blue in the figure)

Now to build sleeve entry lines , additional points are needed:

• from point P1 we draw a perpendicular to the line of the width of the back. We put a cross.
• We divide the distance from this cross to the chest line into 3 equal parts. We add 2 cm to the bottom 1/3 (this is a constant value) - this is the P3 point.
• Bisector from point Г2 = 0.2×Г2Г3 + 0.5 = 0.2×11.6 + 0.5 = 2.8

We draw a line of entry into the sleeve under the pattern.

Building the front

To begin with, we make a decrease along the waistline:

• 0.5 cm for size 40-42
• 0.7 -1 cm for size 44-48
• 1.2-2 for 50-56 size
• over 2 - over size 56

We take a decrease of 1 cm.

• T1 T11 down we postpone this decrease of 1 cm
• Now we do the same decrease along the bottom line: H1H11 down 1 cm.
• T11 A11 up \u003d position of the upper point of the neck of the front \u003d Dtp \u003d Pdtp \u003d 44.1 + 1.3 \u003d 45.4

In order for the dress to fit well in the chest area (not puffed up) - you need to make a fit (semi-skid).

• A11 A12 left 1cm (standard). Connect point A12 with G1.

• A12 A3 left = front neck width = AA2 (calculated from backrest drawing) = 7.1
• A12 A4 Down = Front Throat Depth = A12A3 + 1 (Constant) = 7.1 + 1 = 8.1

Building BREAST DRAW .

• D1D5 left = position of the center line of the chest = Cg + 0.5 (constant value) = 9.9 +0.5 = 10.4

Through the point G5 we draw a vertical with a dotted line.

• Radius A3G6 to the center line of the chest = Br + 0.5 × Pdtp = 26.2 + 0.5 × 1.3 = 26.9. We connect A3 and G6 with a straight line.

• Radius A3 A5 \u003d opening of the chest tuck \u003d 2 × (Cr2 - Cr1) \u003d 2 × (48.2 - 44.2) \u003d 8. We put the compass in A3 and draw an arc.
• Radius G6 A5 = A3G6 = 26.9. We connect points A5 and G6.

Shoulder slope:

is also found using 2 radii.

• Radius A5 P5 \u003d A2 P1 - shoulder tuck \u003d 15.2 - 1.5 \u003d 13.7
• Radius G6 P5 \u003d Vpkp + 0.5 × Pdtp \u003d 23 + 0.5 × 1.3 \u003d 23.7

Connect points P5 and A5.

Check: point P1 must be higher than point P5. If point P5 is higher, you need to cut off a piece of the shoulder from the front and add it to the back). Horizontal alignment is allowed.

We are building sleeve entry line .

Additional points:

• Point P6 - horizontal from the lower 1/3 of the back (see figure below)
• Bisector from point Г3 = 0.2 × Г2Г3 = 0.2 × 11.6 = 2.3

Now we need to check front width at point P6:

• W transmission \u003d Wg + 0.1 × Pg \u003d 16.8 + 0.1 × 3 \u003d 17.1

To do this, set aside from point P6 the perpendicular to the tuck line (see dotted line in the figure below).

On the other side of the tuck at the same level, we draw a horizontal line with a dotted line. Measure the length of both dotted lines = 16cm (in my drawing).

And the width should be 17.1 cm. The missing value is set aside on the horizontal from point P6. We put new point P6.

We draw with the help of the pattern the line of entry into the pocket.

Hip Width

Equalize the segments G»G4 = B»B21

Calculate the difference between your hip width and chest width:

Difference \u003d (Sb + Pb) - G "G1 \u003d (50 + 1.5) - 49 \u003d 2.5.

That is, the lack along the line of the hips \u003d 2.5 cm. So you need to expand the half of the front and half of the back by 1.25 cm each:

• from point B2 to the left 1.25 cm = expand in front
• from point B21 to the right 1.25 cm = expand the back

Draw vertical lines from these new points.

We build darts at the waist

First you need to calculate the difference between T»T1 and your waist width (based on measurements).

• Difference \u003d T "T1 - (St + Fri) \u003d 48.5 - (35 + 1.5) \u003d 12

We distribute this difference between 4 tucks:

1. in the middle seam 1.5
2. in the side 4.5
3. back tuck 3.5
4. front tuck 2.5

• in the middle seam 1.5 cm (see the figure below: from point T "to the right 1.5 cm. We draw straight lines from point 1.5 to the level of the line of the shoulder blades and point B")

• Side seam 4.5 cm (see the figure below: set aside from point T2 by 2.25 to the right and left, connect with point G4 and points 1.25 on the hip line)

Back tuck - 3.5 cm. (see the figure below: we divide the distance between the tuck of the middle seam and the side tuck on the back in half, from this point we set aside half of the tuck - 1.75 - to the right and left. Draw the center line parallel to branch. From the level of the shoulder blades we lower the angle of the tuck by 5 cm down, from the level of the hips we set aside 2 cm upwards and draw the lower side of the tuck)

Front tuck: 2.5 cm (see the figure below: on the center line of the center of the chest, lay off half of the tuck - 1.25 cm - from point G6 lower the angle of the tuck by 3 cm, connect the lower side to the hip line)

We draw a bottom line along the front (under the pattern) and back (equalizing the sides, at right angles, as in the drawing of the backrest below)

Congratulations! If you have read up to this point, then perhaps you already have a YOUR pattern base , or you already at least understood how it is done. But this is the first step towards a series of future beautiful dresses! In the next article I will tell you how to translate a breast tuck so that it is invisible on the product. See you on the blog pages and Sew With Me!

Here is another very interesting option for building a base pattern on fabric: