Bust dart in the side seam. Transfer of the bust to the side line

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Hello, in this article we will consider one of the methods of constructive modeling - changing the volumetric shape of the basic design of a dress by modeling a bust dart and a shoulder dart of the back.

Some models of shoulder garments are more voluminous in comparison with the basic design of the dress. One way to get this shape from a basic design is through structural modeling. With an increase in volume, the nature of the supporting surfaces changes - the gap between the figure and the clothes along the chest line increases, which leads to a greater detachment of the side sections of the back and front from the surface of the figure. In other words, the curvature of the surface is reduced in the front at the level of the chest line and on the back in the region of the shoulder blades, and the product is obtained flatter, not emphasizing the chest.

Structurally, such a model shape is achieved by reducing the solutions of the upper dart of the front and the shoulder dart of the back, up to their complete elimination by de-modeling the basic darts.
Under by modeling a dart understand the translation of any part of the solution into sections of the product (armhole, neckline, bottom line, etc.) in order to lengthen these sections, which makes it possible to obtain a flatter shape that does not emphasize the shape of the body.

I propose to consider how to properly model the darts. To begin with, let's transfer the details of the basic design of the dress to a blank sheet of paper and be sure to mark the control points of the armholes.

As a rule, tackle darts are not used in products of three-dimensional shape (depending on the product model). Therefore, we can simply remove the darts along the waist line on the shelf and back. Depending on the model and style of the product, the solution of the tackle darts along the side sections of both parts is reduced partially or completely, in accordance with this, new side sections are constructed. If there is a notch along the waist line on the midline of the back, then this dart can also be removed and a new middle section of the back can be drawn.

Well, now let's move on to modeling the darts.

Shelf modeling
To perform modeling on the shelf drawing, we will build auxiliary lines to those cuts where it is possible to simulate the part of the breast dart:
in the middle line- the auxiliary line is built from the top of the breast dart to the line of the middle of the shelf at a right angle;
in the line of the armhole- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the breast dart to the armhole line of the shelf 1-2 cm above the control point;
in the bottom line- from the top of the breast dart, a vertical is built to the bottom line of the shelf.

Thus, we can model the bust dart: into the shoulder line, into the middle line, into the armhole line and into the bottom line of the shelf.
Consider several options for modeling a breast dart.

The first way
Cut the part of the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the bottom line.

Let's translate the solution of the chest dart:
in the line of the armhole can be modeled up to 2cm,
in the shoulder line- up to 1cm,
we will simulate the rest in the bottom line shelves.

When translating the dart, the cuts were broken, we will draw a new shoulder line, an armhole line and a bottom line.

And so, we got a shelf without a breast dart.

Since we modeled the dart in the shoulder line by up to 1 cm, the shoulder line was accordingly lengthened by this amount. If the model does not need it, this value is cut off from the end of the shoulder. The bottom line has also lengthened, that is, the shelf has expanded towards the bottom line. If such an extension along the bottom line is not desirable, then half or 2/3 of this extension can be removed from the side line.

Second way
This method is used if the product has a V-shaped neckline or a jacket-style collar.
We cut the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the middle line.

Now you need to rotate the upper central part around the incision point on the midline so that the center of the chest drops by 0.5-1cm. The rest of the dart can be modeled into the armhole line, but the allowable size is up to 2 cm.

We draw a new cut of the armhole, and a neckline or collar is built along the middle line, in accordance with the model of the product. And again we got a shelf without a breast dart.

The third way(modeling in the middle line)
If the shelf is not split or has a blind fastener, then you can use this method of modeling a breast dart.
Let's cut the part of the shelf along all the constructed construction lines.

This time, the upper part of the shelf must be lowered parallel to the cut line by up to 1 cm. In the line of the armhole we translate the solution of the chest dart up to 2 cm, the rest - in the bottom line.

Having lowered the upper part of the shelf by up to 1 cm, we shortened the line of the middle of the shelf by this amount. Therefore, it is necessary to lengthen the front by the amount of contraction of the shelf along the chest line. Then draw a new armhole line and a bottom line.

The expansion of the shelf along the bottom line can also be reduced by removing half or 2/3 of this expansion from the side cut.

Back modeling
To simulate the shoulder dart on the convexity of the shoulder blades, we also need to build auxiliary lines to the cuts of the back:
to the armhole line- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the shoulder groove to the middle of the armhole section from the control point to the end shoulder point;
to the bottom line- the cut line is drawn first horizontally from the control point of the armhole to a length of 1.5-2 cm, and then vertically downward.
Based on this, we can model the shoulder dart of the back in two zones: in the shoulder line and in the armhole line.

We cut the back part along the auxiliary lines and translate the solution of the shoulder dart:
in the shoulder line- by the same amount as on the shelf, in order to maintain the fit (up to 1cm)
in the line of the armhole- we translate the rest of the dart (up to 1-2 cm).
In addition, along the bottom line, it is necessary to perform exactly the same expansion that we got on the shelf.

Let's draw new cuts along the line of the shoulder, armholes and bottom. If on the shelf along the shoulder line the lengthening is cut off, which was obtained after modeling the breast dart, then on the back it is also possible to cut this lengthening from the end of the shoulder. It is also possible to leave the shoulder section of the back longer than the shoulder line of the shelf; in the process of sewing, this difference is laid on the landing of the shoulder of the back.

Thus, we have a back pattern without a shoulder dart.

In products with split back along the line of the middle, another zone is possible into which a part of the shoulder dart can be modeled - this is the middle line of the back. It is permissible to model up to 0.6 cm of the shoulder dart for this section of the back.

In this case, the line of the neck of the back becomes wider by this amount. If, according to the model of the product, the expansion of the neck is not desirable, then the shoulder line from the side of the neck can be lengthened by the amount of expansion of the neck, and cut off the same amount from the end of the shoulder. Next, new cuts of the neck and armholes of the back are built.

Sleeve modeling
When modeling the chest dart and shoulder dart of the back on both parts, the armhole lengthened. Therefore, we need to change the edge of the sleeve. To do this, draw two cut lines on the sleeve pattern. The first line runs perpendicular to the ulnar line from the top of the ulnar dart to the edge of the sleeve.

We construct the second line as follows: measure the length of the ridge from the first line to the line in the middle of the sleeve. We postpone the resulting value along the bend from the middle line towards the front edge of the sleeve. Divide the bottom line of the sleeve in half from the front cut to the middle line.

We connect the resulting points with a straight line, which will be the second line of the cut.

We cut the sleeve along the constructed lines.

Now we move our sleeve along the edge so that the expansion is equal to the size of the modeling of the dart into the armhole of the shelf and back, minus 0.5-1 cm. be careful, the size of the darts modeling on both parts is different, but we subtract 0.5-1 cm from each value. How much to subtract depends on how wide the sleeve you want to get.

We draw up a new line of the ridge with a rise along the middle line by 1-2 cm.

And our sleeve pattern for the new armhole is ready.

When modeling a bust dart, you should know that on a figure with a large chest (size 52+) in products with a set-in sleeve, a good fit cannot be achieved without a bust dart. Therefore, it is better to limit the modeling of the bust dart to size 52.
In conclusion, I will add: the shape of a product without a chest and shoulder dart can be obtained not only by modeling the basic structure, but also by building such a structure immediately, with lengthening the armhole, lengthening the front line and expanding the shoulder line. But more on that in the next publications!

If your chest height differs from that shown in the Burda table, you need to move the dart up or down by this difference.

Side or chest darts

For darts extending from the side seam, the pattern changes as follows: draw an auxiliary dotted line parallel to the line of the middle of the front so that it passes through the top of the dart. Mark the new bust point according to the difference above or below the top of the dart.

Then draw a new dart exactly parallel to the old or

Towards this point.

To re-pass the side seam at the dart, glue a strip of paper under the cut and pin off a new dart. After drawing a new side seam line, cut the pattern along that line and fold the dart back out.

Vertical or waist darts

Such darts are shortened or lengthened by an appropriate amount.

: Master Class

Transfer of the point of the chest in patterns with raised seams

Also, for models with raised seams, you can move the chest point up or down. To do this, draw auxiliary lines on the details of the paper pattern at right angles to the line of the middle of the front, respectively, in the direction of the share thread: on the middle of the front, above the embossed seam, approx. 10 cm above the waist, on the side of the front approx. 10cm above the waist.

If the chest point needs to be shifted up, then shorten the middle part of the front along the upper auxiliary line by an appropriate amount. Then add on the middle and side of the front the amount by which you shortened the middle of the front at the top.

To prevent the armhole lines from changing, cut the side of the front deeper by an appropriate amount.

Exactly in the mirror image, changes are made if the chest point needs to be shifted downward.

in the product

Important

Before resizing the details of the paper pattern, compare your measurements with the measurements given in the size table, and then adjust the details of the paper pattern by moving their parts as many centimeters as your measurements differ from the tabular ones.

Source and photo: website
The material was prepared by Yulia Dekanova

Is it possible to remove the dart in the model you like? Certainly! Modeling a bust dart is really not difficult at all.

How to properly close the dart without spoiling the pattern, consider the example of a knitted pullover model from.

Pattern:

Light gray jersey gives this loose pullover an asymmetrical bottom a sporty look.

The pullover has a classic bodice with darts that only slightly outline the curve of the chest. The model is loose, made of thin knitted fabric, so you can do without a chest dart. Let's remove the dart right on the pattern.

Step 1

On the shelf from the top of the bust dart, draw a parallel line in relation to the line of the middle of the front.

Step 2

Step 4

Transfer the remaining width of the dart to the bottom line - place the cut until the dart closes completely and

Fix it with tape.

Step 5

In this case, the shoulder length increased by 1 cm, and

The bottom line is 7 cm. If these changes are undesirable,

Then we remove 1 cm from the end of the shoulder seam.

We remove the excess width along the bottom line in the side seam, but no more than half or 2/3 of the size (respectively 3.5 or 4.5 cm).

Taking these changes into account, draw a new side seam line and

We cut off the excess.

What are used in the product, read on the website

Now you know how easy and simple it is to remove the bust dart so that the shelf of the model you like turns out to be without a dart.

Hello dear craftswomen!
Let's talk about darts, or rather, about such modeling techniques as transfer of darts. First, what is a dart and why is it needed. The human figure is three-dimensional, has some roundness, trying to fit a piece of fabric to it to create a garment, we see that the fabric does not lie flat, bending around the bulges on the body. So, the darts give us the opportunity to make a smooth transition from a bottleneck to a place with volume. A dart is a surplus of fabric that is used up, giving the desired shape to the product.

The main dart is a chest, it serves to bend around the roundness of the chest, it is located on the shelf of the base pattern from the shoulder seam down to the center of the chest. In products, a bust dart can originate from any seam of the shelf (this is achieved using constructive modeling and is called a dart translation), but its end is always directed towards the bulge of the chest. Of course, there are accepted canons for the location of the darts - from the shoulder seam, from the side seam, darts from the armhole, from the waist - these are the main positions of the dart on the chest, but besides this, each designer tries to find a new, most successful, in his opinion, location of the dart, concludes it in relief, or undercut. In addition to the chest darts, there are also other darts, the shoulder darts to round the back of the product in the area of the shoulder and shoulder blades, waist darts - they remove excess tissue in the waist area and create a smooth transition to the hips. It is important to remember that it is better to split a too large dart solution into two, that is, into two darts, this will help to distribute the fabric more evenly and make it possible to properly iron the resulting slack at the end of the dart. Therefore, if you have any doubts about the size of the solution, it is better to use this technique.

Darts can also be re-shaped into relief seams, which have the same constructive function, bend around the figure, repeating all the bends, but also give an aesthetic look to the product. The reliefs can also be just decorative. Today we will look at ways to transfer a dart, and analyze the most interesting cases using examples of models of dresses by modern designers. Having mastered the technique of transferring darts, decorating them in relief, you can create your favorite clothing models yourself. It's not difficult at all! So let's get started.

For modeling, we need a pattern - the basis of an adjacent or semi-adjacent silhouette. You can take it on our website. To do this, go to the main page of the site, select "basic dress pattern" and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly build your individual pattern and, after paying for the service, you will be able to print it on a printer in A4 format and glue the sheets together to get the life-size base patterns. Instructions on how to do this are on the pattern generation page.

As already mentioned, the dart for the bulge of the chest can be positioned to any seam of the shelf, the only condition is that its top always indicates the highest point of the chest. (Important! The end of the dart is located 2 cm before the center of the chest! That is, we finish the seam of the dart, reducing it to nothing, earlier by 2 cm). The figure shows examples of translation of a dart.

The method for modeling reliefs is extremely simple, and the main condition is also - all relief lines pass through the center, the most convex part of the figure. (or near it). For modeling, we need the same pattern - the base. Further, the algorithm is as follows: on the part of the pattern - the base, in this case we took the part of the shelf, we apply the model lines of the reliefs, making sure that the lines pass through its top. We cut along the lines obtained, and by combining the parts of the pattern we get the required details.

Let's take a closer look at modeling a bust dart. For example, let's take the translation of a dart into a side seam. This location of the dart is the most inconspicuous in clothing. In this example, a dart for fitting is also transferred to the side seam, but you should be aware that with a large breast size, this option is unacceptable, because the solution will be too large.

In Victoria Begham's dress, the dart on the bust is transferred to the side seam and is framed in relief. Modeling takes place on a pattern - the basis of an adjacent silhouette. Step 1 of modeling - we draw a relief line passing through the center of the chest, making an incision from the top of the waist dart to the top of the chest dart, close the dart. Step 2 - cut off the side of the relief. Step 3 - outline the decorative seam line according to the sketch (photo).

Consider transferring a dart to the neckline. On the Karen Millen dress, the bust dart translated asymmetrically into the neckline of the boat looks very impressive. Let's measure the simulation. We need a shelf of a pattern - the basis of a plup-fitting silhouette, a link, a turn. For the convenience of modeling, we will close the bust dart with its transfer down to the waist. We outline a new line of the neckline and cut lines of the pattern, which coincide with the location of future folds (darts), remember that the ends of the cuts coincide with the tops of the darts (centers of the chest). Turn the details of the pattern so that the new darts open into the neck. Everything! The resulting darts can be processed as shown in a red dress with allowances on the face, or can be laid with soft folds.

In Victoria Beckam FALL 2013 RTW - NYFW dress, the dart is transferred to the cut-off barrel. How to do it? First, we outline the line of the barrel, transfer the dart mortar to fit into the seam of the barrel stitching to the middle part of the bodice. The part of the barrel must be cut off from the pattern. Next, we make an incision from the seam for grinding the barrel to the top of the chest dart and open its solution in this place by simply turning the parts.

In models of A - shaped silhouette with folds along the bottom, the dart is moved down. To achieve uniformity, the fold is not enough and it would be wrong to simply expand the product along the bottom due to the side seams. Therefore, the translation of the darts down is used.

Take the whole pattern-base of the dress, along with the skirt, and after making a cut from the bottom line up to the top of the dart, open it by turning the details of the pattern and closing the previous location of the dart. Additionally, you can add an extension along the side seams, but no more than 10 cm.

Consider transferring a dart to a side seam and shaping it into a relief. Again, using the Victoria Beckam dress as an example. Step 1 - using a notch, we connect the tops of the waist and chest darts. Step 2 - open both solutions at the highest point of the neck, in the place of the breast tuck. We outline the lines of the relief passing through the center of the chest, and the line of the decorative seam, based on the sketch. Step 3 - cutting off along the relief line, close the dart at the highest point of the neckline, it will open in the relief line, outline the model lines of the neckline and armholes.

Converting the bust dart to a fantasy relief in an Elie Saab dress. We act in a similar way. First, we outline the line of the cut-off barrel, move the chest dart down to the waist. Next, mark the line of the relief, according to the sketch and cut off along it we transfer the dart solution into the sharpening line of the barrel, attaching the formed piece to the middle part, see the figure.

In Sarah Jessica Parker's dress, the dart is embossed from the shoulder. Everything is simple here - on the pattern-base of the shelf, we outline the line of the relief, cut and connect the parts, we get the central part of the shelf and the side part. On the side, we outline the cutting line, as shown in the figure, as a result we have an imitation of a sundress and a top worn inside.

In the charming dress of American TV presenter Nicole Scherzinger, the darts on the bodice are transferred to the middle seam. Modeling is carried out like this, using cuts going from the middle of the shelf to the tops of the chest and waist darts, the solutions are opened in a new location, then you need to cut out 2 details of the front of the dress with a seam in the center of the dress.

TRANSFER OF CHEST BUCKET FROM SHOULDER SEAM TO SIDE SEAM

This is a very simple process - and it will take you no more than 2-3 minutes.

This is what our pattern looks like with darts on the shoulder seam.

If you leave this dart here and close it, it will create the bulge we need for our breasts, BUT on our dress in the center of each shoulder there will be a not very attractive seam. We do not need this, so we will transfer the dart to a less replaced place - to the side seam.

We take a pencil and a ruler. On the pattern from the bottom edge of the armhole, measure down 5-7 cm - in this place we put a point.

Now we find the top of our breast dart - here it is. And draw a line connecting the top of the chest dart with the point that we measured on the side line of the pattern.

We take scissors and along this line we make an incision WITHOUT REACHING 2 CM to the top of the dart.

Now we manually close the dart on the shoulder and a new dart is automatically opened in the same place where we just made the cut. That's all - it remains only to glue the old dart with tape (so that it does not open back).

So we got a new dart on the side seam under the armpit. As you can see in the photo below, this new dart does its job wonderfully - that is, just like the old one, it creates a voluminous bulge for your breasts.

And now you can continue to cut your dress, with complete confidence that the new dart will fit perfectly into the shape of your chest, and the bodice of your dress will fit you well.

Our lesson has come to an end. I hope he was informative and helped you deal with such a simple technique for modeling clothes as translation of a dart. Good luck and creative mood!