Text: Alena Belaya

In a modern institute of celebrity, models occupy the top lines, personifying the image of a luxurious and easy life: it seems that it is enough to be born beautiful and get to the right place - and now six-figure sums start pouring into your account, and you just walk the catwalk in expensive clothes and take pictures. Firstly, this is not the case (see "eating disorders", "terrible competition", "exhausting fashion weeks", "poverty"), and secondly, the position of models in the hierarchy of the fashion industry has not always been perfect. At the beginning of the 20th century, girls demonstrating fashion collections were equated with a marginal class: this profession was considered inappropriate for "decent" women, so girls from the poor went to fashion models dysfunctional families... They were called "mannequins" (the "model" were the exhibition samples of the collection), which obviously dehumanized the woman and reduced her perception and role to a stand for clothes. It is this connotation "an empty doll with perfect proportions face and body "will remain in the industry until the 1970s, and in society - much longer: this is where the habit of disparagingly calling models" hangers "is taken from.

London-based fashion designer Lucy Duff Gordon is considered the first designer to use catwalk shows instead of static presentations. She herself raised the models for her fashion house, giving them stage names, which also evoked associations with the priestesses of love. By 1910, almost all Parisian couturiers had their own fashion models on staff, and of two categories: some showed their collections at the show, others - to private clients in the atelier. That was where their differences ended. All had the correct facial features and a harmonious physique, in other words, they were beauties by the standards of the time - girls who dreamed of a career as an actress, but were screened out by Hollywood, often went to fashion models.

Such a concept as rigid model parameters, expressed in centimeters, did not exist at all. On the contrary, designers used models of different sizes to show the variability of their models. At that time, fashion models did not serve as the personification of an unattainable ideal of beauty - on the contrary, they had to imitate the proportions of the average couture clients, be it Parisian aristocrats or the wives of the American nouveau riche. Some couturiers, including Jean Patou, even ordered models from America, as it was believed that French women with their body type would not be able to "sell" outfits to American clients.

20th

In the 1920s, the concept of clothing, designed to sculpt the body and emphasize its curves, forcing a woman into the tight shackles of a corset, was replaced by the idea of ​​liberation and relaxation. Thanks to the massive passion for sports, a slender fit figure is coming into fashion, and the straight silhouette of dresses hints that beautiful woman- a woman without roundness. Moreover, Madeleine Vionne at this time says that the new corset for a woman is her own body. Fashion designers understand that new styles of dresses look best on very young, not always mature girls, and so the profession of fashion models is noticeably younger. However, femininity was important. In the second half of the 20s, girls with a decisive appearance, Marion Morehouse and Lee Miller, the future muse of Man Ray and a military special correspondent, become the faces of the emancipated generation. They differed from the frivolous and liberated flapper girl, popular in the 20s, in their noble-mature appearance and manners.

30th

We know the golden era of Hollywood in the 1930s as the era that gave birth to the concept of glamor with a cult of women, luxurious from the snow-white fur coat to the tips of the nails. Hollywood proposed a new, very tenacious ideal of beauty - unattainable divas, as if without changes descending from the screen into reality and back. At this time, classic beauty, accentuated by dramatic make-up, comes into vogue: high cheekbones, curved eyebrows and deep-set eyes. However, for models this decade was not the most profitable time - for filming in magazines they were increasingly preferred Hollywood stars... In favor were the models that broadcast that very Hollywood chic: Helen Bennett, the Russian beauty Lyudmila Fedoseeva and the Swede Lisa Fonsagrivs, who is called the first supermodel in history.

40-50th

The world of glamor crashed into World War II like a crystal vase, and silks and diamonds were replaced by discreet outfits as if from the shoulder of Ingrid Bergman from Casablanca. The post-war era inevitably dictated a different course: fashion photographers get rid of Hollywood aplomb in their work, and the dominant trend is not luxurious, but a healthy and sporty lifestyle. The models still embody elegance and impeccable femininity, but look much more earthy than the standards of the previous decade. Exemplary beauties of the second half of the 1940s and the embodiment of the ideal natural beauty there were Betty Tret and Liz Benn.

It was at this time that one of the key moments in the modeling industry takes place: the division into catwalk, that is, high fashion, and commercial models - those who, even with great demand and fees, could not count on the cover of Vogue or Harper's Bazaar. After 1947, the standards of female beauty will be formed into a very definite canon: high breasts, thinnest waist, prominent hips. And here, of course, it was not without Christian Dior and his New Look concept. The silhouette proposed by Dior brought girls with parameters 96-63-94 cm to the leaders of the modeling industry, which by today's standards is on the verge of professional fitness - today, girls with such volumes are expected only at the Victoria's Secret casting. But in the 50s, models Dorian Leigh, Dovima, Susie Parker, Jean Patchett, Sunny Harnett became the personification of Dior's refined femininity and new ideals of noble beauty.

60th

However, the standard of beauty "according to Dior" was fixed for a short time - exactly before the beginning of the new decade. The sixties were a turning point that changed the perception of fashion forever. If before that the main clients of fashion couturiers were adult women of high origin and income, then the 1960s, with their craze for youth subcultures, presented designers with a fact: from now on, young people order music. All these fundamentally new A-silhouettes and extremely short skirt lengths, coupled with the general infantilism of fashion, required new faces and bodies. They are skinny girls with doll-like faces: Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton, Penelope Three, Patti Boyd and Linda Keith. Their puberty image and boyish figure were a fresh sip after the absolute dominance of mature feminine beauty in the spirit of femme fatale. The fashion industry of the 60s turned another small revolution, abolishing the border between fashion models and photo models.

70th

It will take another ten years before the profession of a model will be considered a truly prestigious business. It is the 1970s that we owe to the phenomenon of supermodels, with the emergence of which the fashion industry will never be the same. With the advent of the 70s, models become one of the symbols of pop culture, finding themselves on the same honor roll with famous actresses and singers. The girls, who became the main figures of the fashion industry of the 70s and the subsequent 80s, did not have a trace of the teenage infantilism of their predecessors. They were strong, showy women with pronounced sexuality and equally pronounced sexual characteristics. The era of glamor is back. His ambassadors were the favorite of Vogue and the first model to sign a contract with the cosmetic giant Revlon, Lauren Hutton, as well as Jerry Hall, the black muse of Yves Saint Laurent and the future wife of David Bowie Iman, Marisa Berenson, the granddaughter of Elsa Schiaparelli, whom Saint Laurent called “ Girl of the 70s ”, Sports Illustrated star Christie Brinkley, and Dale Haddon and Janice Dickinson.

80th

The decade of aerobics, waving and leggings was led by sportswomen Jane Fonda and Cindy Crawford. According to the video tutorials, the Foundations (and later Crawford) trained all the women of the planet, and even some men. The cult of the body has defined new ideals, and hence the standards of model appearance. The main thing was the feminine form, honed by classes in the fitness room. The models finally formed the division of the heroines of modern culture, and making a brand out of their own name became new tradition... From now on, models became not an appendix to luxurious designer collections, but leaders of public opinion, to whom fashion designers were ready to pay unthinkable money for their work: it was their faces and figures that launched the mechanism of mass sales of anything.

90th

The resulting rules naturally gave rise to the golden era of supermodels, whose names were not just self-explanatory and self-sufficient, but almost common nouns: Naomi, Linda, Christie, Cindy. It is believed that behind their fame were not so much unearthly beauty or the ability to pose in front of the camera (although this, of course, too), as strength of personality and charisma - a combination of charm, dignity, self-confidence and some elusive qualities that does not leave others a chance doubt your exclusivity.

The personality cult in the industry, where 90% of the participants remained anonymous, was accompanied by multimillion-dollar royalties (the famous “We Don't Get Out of Bed for Less than $ 10,000 a Day” by Linda Evangelista went down in history) and fame, the train from which lasts to this day. Soon they were joined by Kate Moss, who at first glance absolutely fell out of the standard and seemed to be much inferior to her colleagues with her 170 cm height and androgynous appearance. Such a sharp contrast (although, of course, not only him) "shot", and Kate threw open the door to "heroin chic" - the new glamor of the grunge and Britpop era, when pale skin, sleepy look and touchingly protruding collarbones became luxury.

00th

It is believed that the decline of the era of supermodels was caused, firstly, by the reluctance of designers to pay the very conditional $ 10,000 for filming or showing up. Therefore, modeling agencies increasingly began to offer brands new faces from South America and Eastern Europe - these girls asked for much less, and looked fresh and new against the background of the familiar figures. Secondly, by the beginning of the 2000s, fashion swung towards the intellectual, without fireworks in the spirit of Versace, and it demanded new faces that would not overshadow the collection.

Therefore, on the one hand, on the catwalks, the trend of painfully thin, anorexic-looking girls with strange alien faces gained momentum - in part we owe this to one of the key designers of the early 2000s, Alexander McQueen, who made strange things trendy. On the other hand, a trend towards a new sexuality begins to develop, led by the Victoria's Secret “angels”. Gisele Bundchen, Adriana Lima, Alessandra Ambrosio gradually returned to the catwalks the classic femininity, though still the most popular in the "lingerie" segment, where the sexuality of things was traditionally presented through the sexuality of their wearer.

In general, the 2000s turned out to be an extremely prolific decade for the most different types model appearance (and therefore, female beauty in general). Nonprofit fashion trends like "angels" coexisted with atypical beauty in the person of Daria Verbova and Coco Roshi, and "dolls of the heir to Tutti" Gemma Ward and Lily Collins got along well with androgynous Agnes Dein and Freya Beha Eriksen. It is the boom in androgynous models of the late 2000s that can be called a harbinger of what we see on the catwalks today: the erosion of gender differentiation, neo-feminism and the resurgence of the popular nineties unisex idea - this time, the new creative director of Gucci.

What's going on now

Canons, rules, division of markets. Somehow frightening, isn't it? But what does this mean? In this article, I want to tell you about model traits and the differences between them.

Some models, being in European cities, are out of work, but at the same time, having flown to Asia, they earn good money. Most likely, the point here is precisely in the type that each model should know for itself. You should not indulge yourself once again with illusions. Earn money and experience, and you can see Paris, and even "die" there at any free time, also with all the amenities.

In China, cute faces with porcelain skin are accepted. In Japan - children's round. In Turkey, they want a hip of 93 cm. Still, the modeling business remains a business, there is no escape from supply and demand.

Strong face

Wild look, sharp cheekbones and very expressive facial features, long legs and enviable thinness. According to many - the "coolest" type. Beginner models, and not only, tend to look like this, pulling their cheeks in until bruises appear, and even manage to do it on snaps. It looks ridiculous. Girls, owners of this type, do not need to cast wild looks and somehow deform their faces, as their mother nature created them.

Baby-face

I have heard many times that now this is the most popular type of face in modeling. Typically large expressive eyes, neat nose, small, pouty lips, round face. Such dolls. To look 15-16 years old, even if you are already in your twenties, is a common thing for them.

Strange look

The pursuit of this type of face never stops. If you hear from friends: “Which model is you? You have a strange face! ”- quickly run to the agency. Scouts strive to snatch a model with this type. These girls can be ugly, and not have strict facial features, and be, at first glance, not commercially in demand. But there is something exciting about them. I will give examples, and you will immediately understand what it is about.

Commercial face

The very word "commerce" speaks for itself. This is advertising and making money. Such faces are considered beautiful according to the laws of society, both in modeling and in life. You can hear this version, from those who have not eaten carrots and did not study in childhood, in short - not mature enough: "Well, there are models and photo models, the latter are the owners of commercial entities." They are deluded, there is no such division. It's just that this particular type has a perfect, precise face that radiates female beauty and charm. They are the ones you see in advertisements for perfumes, cosmetics and various brands. They attract attention, which means they sell the product they advertise well.

Take a close look at yourself in the mirror, assess your chances, determine your type and the country in which you can really make money. Better, my advice to you, is to find yourself a good parent agency that will do everything much more professionally. How I did it when I got into The Personal Model Management. I always thought that I had a baby-face, but here it turned out - commerce with a touch of classics. Yes, and it happens, we are all so different and unique. We can combine many types, which allows us to work in many markets and in many countries.

P.S. I wanted to apologize. For what? I think many, based on my promise in the previous article, expected the topic of Asia's cooperation with the Big Four countries. But do not be upset, we will definitely consider all the nuances of this issue.

The trend for contouring, and with it for chiseled facial features and high relief cheekbones, is gradually losing its relevance. Whatever one may say, in life the girls with the “baby-face” type are much more lucky - that is, with cute baby faces. They have big expressive eyes, plump lips (and we are not talking about "dumplings" pumped with fillers now), a neat nose, a small chin and round cheeks touched by a gentle blush. In their 30s and even 40s, the owners of "doll" faces continue to look like teenagers. A classic example is Natalia Vodianova, looking at her photographs, you will never guess how old she really is. We asked the chief physician of the Beauty Doctor plastic surgery clinic Alexander Dudnik to explain why girls with so-called "baby-faces" a priori win in the struggle for long-lasting youth.

May 3, 2017 Text: Elizaveta Konstantinova · Photo: Getty Images, Rex Features / FOTODOM.RU

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Emma Bunton, 41

Plump cheeks and an innocent childish smile are doing their job: 41-year-old mother of two, Emma Bunton, looks no worse than at the dawn of her singing career with the Spice Girls. She fully justifies her nickname Baby Spice today.

View gallery 1 from 46

Representatives of the fashion industry are sure: a chiseled chin and sunken cheekbones, which make girls visually older, are no longer relevant. Remember Reese Witherspoon, Natalia Vodianova or Miranda Kerr - all these celebrities are bright representatives of the baby-face type, whose age you can hardly guess on the first try. But how do they manage to look much younger than their peers? Experts assure: the owners of "children's" faces aging occurs according to a special scenario. Chief Physician of the Beauty Doctor Plastic Surgery Clinic Alexander Dudnik revealed the site all the secrets of the representatives of this in all respects lucky type.

“The fact is that chubby children have quite pronounced lumps of Bisha (which many are now striving to remove) and a thick layer of subcutaneous fat. On a young face, the volume is evenly distributed, which creates an attractive appearance... Therefore, the longer a person maintains a good layer of fatty tissue, the longer the face will remain young. A girl with apple cheeks will always look younger. The same is with the lips: if you have naturally thin lips, you will most likely appear older than you really are, ”the expert explains.

According to Alexander Dudnik, the preservation of adipose tissue and a sufficient amount of hyaluronic acid is a guarantee of youth. “If you torture yourself with diets or fitness, oxygen“ melts ”the subcutaneous fat layer and the face ages much faster. Therefore, biorevitalization is so useful. If the tissues become dry, then creases and wrinkles form on the face. A hyaluronic acid in turn, when introduced into the body, it acts as a natural moisturizer and attracts water, ”added the doctor.

Lucky for the owners of baby-face and with a nose. Experts from the American Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons have conducted a number of studies proving that it does change over the years. Due to the thinning and loss of firmness of the skin, its tip may sink and expand. However, if the nose is tiny in itself, then serious age changes and sagging is not afraid of him.

Walking on the catwalk without Hollywood smiles, with stone faces, the models seem to us to be unusual creatures. We often hear "model girl"... Immediately after all, associations with a tall curvy lady with perfect face and hair. But this, believe me, is far from the case. What does fashion look mean? And how to understand whether a simple provincial girl is destined to step into a huge modeling business?

As in any field, the modeling industry has its own laws and standards.

1. Baby-face... These are girls with doll-like children's faces. And the standard for the production of dolls is this: large expressive eyes, a small nose, ruddy cheeks and plump lips. As a rule, the owners of such a face remain young for a long time. An illustrative example - Natalya Vodyanova.

2) Strong face... Basically, such a face prevails on the catwalks. It is characterized by high and sharp cheekbones and a wild feline look. This type is the most demanded in high fashion... And the classic representatives - Sasha Pivovarova and Natasha Poly.

3) Classic face. Clay on canvas. These girls are perfect for creating any look. With the help of cosmetics, hairstyles and clothes, you can literally "sculpt" anything you want. Classical features are usually referred to as Oval face, straight thin nose, high cheekbones, slightly oblong large eyes, moderately high forehead, neat lips. Famous model with classic features Kate Moss.

Undoubtedly, looking at these girls, they make us admire. But their appearance is a huge work. Beauty, of course, requires sacrifice and many women strive to look good, and this desire often knows no boundaries. They go on different diets, spend money on visits to beauticians and plastic surgeons.

What do you think, is the model's appearance worth your efforts?

If you still haven't learned how to do hard contouring like Kim Kardashian did, don't be sad, soon it will not be in soda. According to the editors of Vogue.com, a chiseled chin and sunken cheekbones, which make girls visually older, are about to become irrelevant. Representatives of the authoritative online portal believe that "babyface" or, literally, "baby face" is back in fashion. And I must admit, this is a great trend.

What is baby face?

For those who come across the term "baby face" for the first time, we consider it necessary to explain that in this way they describe a type of face that resembles a child. That is, soft facial features, big eyes(a naive look or its illusion), plump lips (not to be confused with lips pumped over by fillers), chubby cheeks and the like. Such faces can be safely called cute, and it is they who are returning to fashion. In addition, as a confirmation of the demand for baby face, below are several stellar examples of such faces.

The popular model Gigi Hadid is one of the star owners of the baby face. “Kim Kardashian has sparked a boom in the use of contouring products and giving the face rough, rough features, while the babyface Hadid looks fresh, new and expressive,” says the author of vogue.com.

How to create a baby face?

Find yourself out of the contouring first, or at least don't create the illusion of deep shadows on your face. In makeup, use the most voluminous and lengthening mascara to achieve the effect of doll lashes. Use pearl pink shades on the lips, just like on the cheeks - the blush should be delicate, fresh and may contain a small amount of shimer.

Please note that the creation of a baby face does not end with makeup. And the most important component of this upcoming trend is smooth, delicate skin, which is achieved only with careful care. In addition to peeling, moisturizing, nourishing and other steps of skin care, do not forget about vitamins.

So which of the stars is the brightest representative of the baby face?

Already mentioned by us Gigi Hadid

Selena Gomez

Jordan Dunn

Drew Barrymore

Miranda Kerr

Jennifer Lawrence