I saw this model in the OTTO magazine and decided to take it as an example of modeling. Skirt with straight reliefs and decorative belt.

On the front half of the skirt, the belt is decorated with two buckles in the color of the fabric. The zipper is located in the middle seam on the back half. The skirt appears to be from thick fabric, possibly corduroy.

We will build it on the basis of our straight two-seam skirt base.

Modeling

We translate our pattern base on tracing paper or with the help of a chisel to another sheet of paper.

Let's continue the segment B6B4, which is the middle of the dart, down the vertical to the intersection with the bottom line and set, for example, point H4. Similarly, we will continue the segment B7B5 and set the point H5.

Thus, we have obtained cuts of the relief lines of the back half of the skirt passing through points T71, B6, B4, H4 and T72, B6, B4, H4. When cutting skirts on fabric, add 1 cm to these cuts.

Now we will do the same with the front half of the skirt - we will continue the segment B7 B5 vertically down. At the intersection of this segment with the bottom line, set H5. The embossed lines of the front half of the skirt pass through points T81, B7, B5, H5 and T82. B7, B5, H5.

We cut the pattern along the embossed lines.

Let's decide on a decorative belt. If the width of your belt does not exceed 3 cm, you can safely cut it in a straight line. To do this, measure the distance on the pattern from the back relief (since the belt originates from the reliefs on the back half of the skirt) to the fold of the front half minus the darts solution.

I suggest taking the belt wider, in this case it must be cut out in accordance with your pattern.

Parallel to the waist line of the skirt, at a distance of 4 cm from it, draw two parallel lines (the distance between these lines will be equal to the width of your belt). Look in the picture I have shaded our future belt. Now it is only necessary to cut out all three parts of the belt and connect them together, while closing the dart solutions.

See what you should get.

We decorate our belt with smooth beautiful lines.

The result is a belt, cut exactly to the figure. I recommend that you select the direction of the lobe on the waistband parallel to the direction of the lobe on the skirt.

Everything! Our straight vertical relief skirt pattern is now complete! Agree that everything is very simple? Write comments, share with your friends!

© Olga Marizina

Pattern of a fashionable pencil skirt with one-piece belt and original figured reliefs. There is a slit in the lower part of the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt for freedom of walking. The zipper can be found in both the left and middle seams.

A wide variety of fabrics can be used to sew a skirt. A classic suiting fabric, plain dyed and patterned, or a combination of both will do. You can also use raincoat fabric, jeans, corduroy, taffeta and other fabrics. Depending on the fabric and finish, for example, topstitching or set-in piping along the raised seams, this skirt model can be made in both sporty and classic style... In any case, it is modern, feminine, original model skirts.

Preparation of the pattern: print on a regular printer, glue the sheets according to the diagram (it is printed on the first sheet), cut out the size that suits you. That's all, you can start cutting.

The pattern is given v life size without seam allowances on a conventionally-typical figure. If your parameters do not fit into generally accepted standards, adjust the pattern in accordance with the characteristics of your figure. And also when cutting, make seam allowances slightly larger than usual, especially in those places where refinements are possible when fitting.

The fabric will need approximately 0.80 m with a width of 1.50.

The upper edge of the skirt is trimmed with piping.

Open skirts

• The middle part of the front panel of the skirt 1 piece
• Upper side part of the front panel of the skirt 2 parts
• Lower side part of the front panel of the skirt 2 parts
• The middle part of the back panel of the skirt 2 parts
• Upper side part of the rear panel of the skirt 2 parts
• The lower side part of the rear panel of the skirt 2 parts
• Front skirt facing 1 piece
• Piping of the back panel of the skirt 1 piece

Sewing a skirt

After stitching, neaten and iron or iron out all sections in accordance with the style of the product. Neaten the middle cuts of the rear panel until sewing.

• First, sew the side parts together, and then connect them to the middle part of the skirt. If you settled on a sports option and accordingly picked up the weave (jeans, corduroy, raincoat fabric, etc.), lay a finishing line (single or double) along each relief.
• Make a cut at the bottom of the middle seam of the back panel.
• Now that the front and back panels have been processed, connect the side cuts, leaving in the left side seam open area for zipper.
• Sew in the zipper.
• Process the upper cut of the skirt, having previously duplicated the piping of the front and rear panels of the skirt with an adhesive gasket.
• It remains to hem the bottom and the skirt is ready.

The ability to model allows you to sew several completely different skirts using one pattern. If you love to dance, then the patterns of gypsy and Spanish skirts will allow you to sew an outfit for performances yourself. And if you just follow the fashion, or prefer your own, purely individual style, then this section will help you always look fashionable and stylish. Moreover, using this skill, you can sew an exclusive dress. There are many styles of skirts: godet, flared, sun, pleated, pleated, Scottish, spiral, mini, midi, maxi, and the patterns of skirts will allow you to fulfill any design fantasies. Below are very interesting and practical options patterns for skirts: patterns for straight skirts, patterns for "Gode" skirts, patterns for "Sun" skirts, patterns for straight skirts with a detachable cape, patterns for wrap-around skirts, patterns for skirts with a chill-out frill, patterns for skirts with an undercut and drapery, etc. which are easy to sew and pleasant to wear.

Taking measurements

In mass sewing production, ready-made tables are used to construct pattern drawings, in which measurements of the necessary parameters of typical figures are entered. For individual sewing, the use of such tables is impractical, since more accurate and detailed data are required: Here another system is used - calculation and measurement, which is based on measuring the distances between certain points of the human body. These distances are called measurements.

To take measurements, you must have a measuring tape, a pencil and a notebook for writing. In this case, it is necessary to comply with certain requirements: the person from whom the measurements are taken should stand relaxed, with a straight posture and arms lowered along the body; the legs should be brought together at the heels, and the socks should be slightly turned outward (at the slightest deviation to the sides, the measurements may turn out to be inaccurate); when measuring measurements, the measuring tape must not be tightened or, conversely, weakened; in order to eliminate the distortion of the readings, it is advisable to take measurements by linen.

Remember! The accuracy of constructing a pattern drawing depends on the correctness and accuracy of the measurements you took and, therefore, appearance of the item you sewn.

However, this is not all.

to build a drawing of a skirt, you need to take into account what type of physique your figure belongs to. If you have a standardly folded figure (smoothly wavy back, the location of the protruding points of the shoulder blades and buttocks at the same level relative to the vertical, moderate notch of the waist and protrusion of the buttocks, normal thigh width), then the following measurements are required to build a drawing of the skirt

Straight two-seam skirt

Despite the variety of this or that skirt, the straight two-seam is the basis for the construction of many models. This skirt exists perfectly as independent product and as part of many costumes. After all, it is not for nothing that she is one of the classic models and therefore for several decades has rightfully been at the height of fashion. It is suitable for women of any age category, and will also be appropriate both for special occasions and for everyday wear. This skirt can be sewn from almost any kind of fabric. However, it is not recommended to sew it from fabrics into a cage, since fitting such a pattern is a significant difficulty. If you decide to sew a skirt made of striped fabric, then when cutting it is necessary to observe the symmetry of the pattern on the front and back panels. A straight two-seam skirt without widening at the bottom will look a little narrower. Therefore, it is not recommended for women with low hips.

BUILDING A DRAWING OF A STRAIGHT TWO-SEAMED SKIRT

To construct a drawing (Figure 14), the following figure measurements are necessary: ​​half waist circumference (St), floor at hip circumference (C6) and product length (Dsh) - And you also need to know the amount of increase for free fit along the waist line (Pt) and line hips (P6). For all sizes, they are equal:

Fri = 0.7-1.0 cm, PB = 1.5-2.0 cm.

In what follows, the necessary measurements and increments will be referred to as "initial data".

For the convenience of construction and calculations, we take the measurements of a typical figure; St = 38 cm, Ce = 52 cm, Dt = 75 cm.

We build a right angle with the apex at point T. The segment TH corresponds to the length of the skirt and is the middle of the front panel. The segment TB determines the position of the hip line and is equal to 13.5-19.5 cm. Through the obtained points B and H, draw lines perpendicular to the straight TN. From point B along the line of the hips, we set aside a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the hips (C6) plus an increase in free fit along the hips (PB), and set point B1

BB 1 = C6 + PB = 52 + 2 = 54 cm.

Through point B 1 we draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line at point T1 and the bottom line at point H1. This line is the middle of the rear panel. From point B to the right along the line of the hips, we postpone BB2

BB 2 = BB1 / 2 - 1 = TT2 = HH2

Through point B 2 we draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line at point T2 and the bottom line at point H2.

I think you will be interested:

After all the constructions, we cut the front panel along the relief line (dotted line).

To construct a pattern of a straight skirt with slots, one must not forget about the allowances for the slots. These are rectangles 6-7 cm wide and 20-25 cm high with a skirt length of 50-60 cm. We add them to the embossed lines of both parts of the front panel (Fig. 4).

Layout on fabric patterns of a classic skirt with reliefs

The layout of the pattern of the skirt with reliefs on the fabric, and therefore the consumption of the fabric, depends mainly on the width of the fabric, and, of course, on the size of the pattern itself.

Consider two options that differ in the size of the pattern. The width of the fabric in both cases is 140 cm, the length of the skirt is 58 cm, the consumption of fabric is 75 cm.

Option 1- for hips of 100 cm and less. Fig. 4.

Option 2- for hips 100 - 110 cm - fig. 5.

With an increase in the volume of the hips, the width of the fabric may not be enough, so we make the layout in an economical way, with a turn of the central front part.

In option 2, the parts are laid out in different directions, so you need to use fabrics without a directional pattern and pile.

With a fabric width of 150 cm, the same layout will turn out for hips up to 120 cm.

Sewing straight skirts with reliefs

We start with embossed seams.

To sew a straight skirt with splines properly, it is important to properly process the splines. Here you will find a photo with explanations:.

When the front panel is assembled together, then the usual sequence of sewing a straight skirt is:

• we grind darts, side and rear middle (if any) seams;
• we sew in a zipper;
• we process the top of the skirt with a belt;
• hem the bottom of the skirt:

Such a skirt can be made without a slot in front. You can replace them with one cut in the left embossed seam- then the spline allowances are not needed.

The back panel can also be made with reliefs. The construction of the relief line at the back is similar to the construction of the front.

One more point. In the photo above, the reliefs are located far from each other. This is because a size 48 mannequin is wearing a larger skirt. Therefore, the distance between the reliefs seems disproportionately wide. According to the given calculation methodology, the reliefs will be in their place for each size.

The purpose of the lesson: to familiarize students with methods of modeling straight skirts; teach to model a skirt of the selected style.

Tools and fixtures: scissors, ruler, pencil, glue, album sheets, straight skirt patterns in m 1: 4.

Visual aids: posters with models of various skirts, samples of various skirts.

During the classes

I. Organizational moment.

1. Checking student attendance.
2. Checking readiness for the lesson.
3. Organization of the workplace.
4. Distribution of cards with tasks.
5. Introductory briefing.

II. Repetition of the passed material.

1. Mark the correct answers with a "+" sign.

On which side of the human figure are measurements taken?
on the left
on the right

With the help of what measurements are taken?
ruler
compass
centimeter tape

How should you stand when taking measurements?
leaning forward slightly
straight (at attention)
bending one leg at the knee
sucking in the stomach

Why do they tie a belt at the waist when taking measurements?
to clarify the position of the hip line
to split the shape into "top" and "bottom"
to clarify the position of the waist line

Write down the name of the measurements according to the legend.
1) Art _________________________________________________
2) Dst ________________________________________________
3) Sat _________________________________________________
4) Di _________________________________________________

Which of these measurements are needed to determine the length of the product?
Dst
St
Di
Sat

Which of these measurements are needed to determine the width of the product
Dst
St
Di
Sat

III. Main part.

In order to sew a skirt of various styles, it is necessary to make changes to the finished pattern, i.e. perform simulation. In this case, the drawing of the base of the skirt can be cut anywhere, but it is imperative to keep the width of the product along the waist line and the length.

Modeling is the creative process of creating new models.

Modeling is divided into artistic and technical. Artistic modeling is carried out by fashion designers, creating sketches of models. Technical modeling is handled by design artists, creating models from a sketch based on a basic design.

The main modeling techniques are:

1. Translation of darts
2. Changing the position of the main construction lines.
3. Dilution of parts of a garment to change the degree of fit.
4. Formation of a new cut by drawing up parts of the structural foundations.

Based on the drawing of a straight skirt, you can model a huge number of styles of skirts: narrow and wide, long and short, with yokes at the back and front, with cuts and folds of various shapes... The construction of the drawing of a straight skirt was carried out in such a way that drawings of two parts were obtained at once: the front and rear panels. For modeling, these parts need to be split (cut), since each part is modeled separately.

Expansion of the skirt along the bottom line.

On the drawing of the front and rear panels, from the side of the side cut line, set aside the required expansion (5-7 cm) along the bottom line. Then connect the resulting points H 1 and H 2 with the lines of the side tuck.

Tapering of the skirt along the bottom line.

In the drawing of the front and rear panels from the side of the side cut, reduce the width of the skirt along the bottom line by the desired amount (H 3 and H 4). Then connect points H 3 and H 4 with points B 2 and B 2 on the hip line. Cut off the excess parts of the pattern.

Changing the length of the skirt.

Most often, the length of the skirt from maxi to mini is determined by fashion. For freedom of movement for women long skirts are made with cuts, slots, fasteners.

Expansion of a straight skirt by closing darts.

A slightly widened straight skirt, very comfortable to wear. This expansion is not difficult to accomplish by closing the darts based on the straight skirt.

Draw vertical lines along the axial lines of the front and back panels of the skirt until they intersect with the bottom line and cut the patterns along these lines.

Move apart the patterns at the bottom until the dart is completely closed.

Expansion of a straight skirt by partially closing the dart and an additional cut.

With a significant expansion of the skirt, additional vertical cuts can be made on the panels, which will make the expansion more even.

Along the axial lines of the darts of the front and rear panels, as well as through the middle of the segments B 6 B 2 and B 2 B 7, draw vertical straight lines until they intersect with the bottom line.

Cut the patterns along the outlined lines and unfold the resulting parts to the desired width.

Draw the bottom line with a smooth curve.

Modeling a skirt with a yoke.

Yoke in skirts are very widely used. They provide a more precise fit of the skirt on the figure, especially when the skirt is made of dense fabric. Constructive lines of the yoke make the skirt more elegant.

Visually lengthen the figure. The yoke can be either on the front or on the back panel, or on both panels at once.

When modeling, the yoke line can be a straight, curved, or broken line, which, as a rule, passes through the end of the dart. If the yoke line is located above the end of the dart, then its upper part is closed, and the part of the dart remaining on the panel is included in reliefs, folds and other structural lines. If the yoke line is located below the end of the dart, then it is either kept or extended to the yoke line and then closed.

Draw a straight line of the yoke A B. through the end of the dart of the front (or rear) panel.

Cut the pattern along this line and fold the yoke from the cut off upper parts, while closing the dart. Upper and bottom sections decorate the yokes with a smooth line.

Now let's look at how these and some other methods of modeling skirts on specific styles are applied.

Model 1. Skirt, widened at the bottom, with a yoke in the front.

Model 2. Skirt with a yoke and a counter pleat in the front.

1. Draw a straight line from the yoke through the end of the dart.
2. Cut off the yoke, close the dart. Arrange the upper and lower cuts of the yoke with smooth lines.
3. Draw straight lines parallel to the line of the middle of the front panel to indicate the depth of the opposite fold. Finish the piece at the top of the fold, as shown in the figure.

Opposite folds are those with front side the folds of the fabric are directed towards each other, and on the seamy side - in different directions.

The opposite fold is marked with seamy side fabrics in three lines:

a) the middle line - the inflection line,
b) side line;
c) a line that defines the end of sewing.

The crease allowance is the depth of one fold multiplied by 4.

Model 3. Skirt with pockets and folds in the front.

1. Construct on the drawing of the front panel the line of entry into the pocket (K 1 K 2), the line of the depth of the pocket (K 3 K 4) and the line of the beginning of the folds (ab).
2. Cut the drawing along the line of the entrance to the pocket (K 3 K 4), the line of the beginning of the folds (ab) and along the vertical line of the dart axis.
3. Build a drawing of a burlap pocket (K 1 K 2 K 3 K 4). Finish the side part of the front panel of the skirt with a section (K 1 K 2 K 3 K 4).
4. Build a part of the pattern with folds, having previously made a paper layout.

IV. The final part of the lesson.

1. Control over the quality of assimilation of new material.
2. Assessment of the test item.

V. Homework.

1. Draw sketches of the styles of the skirt that you would like to sew.
2. Bring to next lesson: paper, ruler, pencils, textbook, workbook.