Greetings to all ladies who love beautiful elegant clothes and are ready to create their own wardrobe with their own hands! The dress is gaining another round of popularity, despite the dominance of trousers, in this respect, the most versatile model that will suit almost everyone.

The straight dress with three-quarter sleeves in style is very versatile and will come in handy for a wide variety of situations. Its simplicity is its advantage. It is laconic and elegant. Side seam pockets make it more comfortable and interesting. The two-seam sleeve creates a good and comfortable fit on the arm.

You can choose different materials for such a model. It all depends on what kind of result you want to get. From dense materials such as cotton or jacquard, the dress will look more statuesque and keep its shape well. From soft fabrics such as silk or wool, it will not look so severe.

MAIN SIZES FOR THE PATTERN

Chest circumference - 96 cm

Waist girth - 78 cm

Hips circumference - 102 cm

MATERIALS FOR WORK

Fabric 150 cm wide and 160 cm long

Non-woven

Concealed zip length 22 cm

PATTERN DETAILS

1 - Shelf (one piece with a fold)

2 - Backrest (two parts)

3 - Front part of the sleeve (two parts)

5 - Burlap pocket (four parts)

The pattern is given without seam allowances. Along all the cuts, add 1.5 cm each, along the bottom of the sleeves - 3 cm, along the bottom of the dress - 4 cm.

WORK DESCRIPTION

1. Stitch center seam along back. Process the sections and iron them out.

2. Sew in a hidden zipper. Look.

3. Sew shoulder seams. Process them and iron them on the shelf.

4. Cut out the piping on the basis of the top of the shelf as a separate piece and duplicate it with non-woven fabric.

5. Trim the neck as shown in.

6. Sew chest darts on the shelf and press them down.

7. Sew side seams, leaving room to enter pockets.

8. Sew pockets in the side seams. To help .

9. Finish the allowance at the bottom of the dress and iron it to the wrong side. ...

10. Sew elbow and front seams on sleeves. Process and iron.

11. Finish the bottom cuts of the sleeves and iron the seam allowances on the wrong side. Sew by hand with blind stitch.

12. Sew sleeves into armholes. Process the allowance.

The dress is ready!

The pattern of this model is quite simple and on its basis you can sew a lot of interesting products, even combining several diverse materials.

Women's dress of a straight silhouette with a three-quarter sleeve is suitable for ladies of all ages. For young girls, you can make it from bright fabrics with beautiful decorations. For ladies of a more mature age, these can be more calm, restrained options that will look very good.

Fashionable women's dresses are varied, but there are basic models that have become classic, which always remain relevant. This dress is just one of them. It will be a great addition to any wardrobe. By the way, if you make it short, then it may well play the role of a tunic.

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A selection of simple models with simple patterns that even beginners can handle. Without spending a lot of time in an hour and a half, a new new thing is ready!
Showy dress
An easy dress pattern, which, if desired and with a wide belt, may unexpectedly turn out to be a tunic that is not a sin to wear with narrow black trousers and high platform shoes. Believe me, it is quite possible for a beginner to sew a short dress without sewing skills!
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This pattern for a girl with a height of 164-170 cm and a size of 46.48.50 will require 100 cm of knitted fabric with a width of 150 cm. Although, if you wish, you can always remake this pattern to any size. The skirt is 34 cm long to mid-thigh, in the original photo the length of the skirt is about 45-50 cm and a piece of fabric means you need to take 15-20 cm longer.
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Fold the fabric right-side in, pin along the hem, fold, and a few random pins all over the fabric. Step back from the edge of the edge 1-2 cm, shallow the line and cut off the edge along this 1 line. Retreat 1.5-2 cm from the cut again and mark the line, this is the middle of the back.
Depart from the upper cut 1.5 cm and draw a horizontal line, on this horizontal line from (.) A to the left mark the points after 11 cm and after 34 cm (.) B.
From point (.) A down the fold through 56 cm mark (.) B, and from (.) B to the left a horizontal, on it 24 cm (.) E and after 36 cm (.) D.
From (.) B downward vertical 33 cm, and from (.) D left vertical 10 cm.
From (.) D vertical up to the intersection with the horizontal from (.) D. Make a fillet.
From (.) D up, mark 2 cm and smoothly connect with (.) E.
It remains to build a boat neck and the upper part of the shelf is ready. From (.) And put 4 cm down and smoothly connect with a point 11 cm.
Now, before proceeding with further construction, you need to draw seam allowances. For knitwear, a 1 cm allowance is sufficient. Draw allowances along the shoulder seam, neckline, armhole, side seam and hem.
Next, you need to build a skirt. Step down from (.) D 2 cm and from this point draw a horizontal line equal to one quarter of the measurement of your hips minus 2-4 cm (this value depends on the stretch of the knitted fabric, the more it stretches, the greater this number, but do not worry, because everything will be decided by fitting.) From this point (.) down the vertical.
Further down the fold down the desired length of the skirt, I want 34 cm and from this point to the left the horizontal to the intersection with the vertical.
From the conditional (.) B (conditional because we have stepped down 2 cm) to the left one quarter of your waist measurement minus 2-4 cm. I have it 19. I wanted to make the waistline 2 cm lower, the measurements changed accordingly.
Connect point 19 with a smooth curved line with the side seam. On fitting, the side seam is adjusted. Draw a 1 cm seam allowance along the waistline and side seam, a 3 to 4 cm seam allowance on the bottom.
Cut out the front and skirt. Attach the shelf to the opposite upper cut, chop, shallow. Take your time to cut. First you need to draw the neck of the back in accordance with the drawing. Apply a skirt, pin and cut out the back and skirt details.
Assembling the product.
There is a seam on the back, and there you can leave a small incision and make an air loop. Sew back seam. Process the neck of the back and shelves. Connect shoulder seams. The length of the seam to your taste is 5-7 cm or more from point 11. Connect the side seams, the bottom of the sleeve from (.) B by 4-5 cm. Process the bottom and the slit of the sleeves. Join the side seams on the skirt. Stitch the middle seam of the skirt and if you want to make a cut for a comfortable walk. Make an assembly on the back and front of the bodice. Connect with a skirt. Finish the bottom of the skirt. The dress is sewn with a knitted needle, a zigzag stitch or a special knitted stitch.

Ready-made patterns are useful, but with them it is sometimes difficult to realize an unusual idea, your own idea and sew a dress “like in a magazine”. In this case, it is necessary to simulate a new drawing, taking the base one as a basis. This will allow you to sew the product according to your parameters.

Modeling a dress is the process of changing a finished drawing or creating a new one based on a visual image of clothing (from a magazine, from a catwalk). The style is reworked to suit the physique, so that the sewn item fits well and fits the build and body type. A striking example is the modification of a straight dress or a classic "case". On their base pattern, you can expand the hem, add sleeves, move the waistline, make additional darts if the difference between the waist and hips is large.

In all cases of modeling, the term "basic pattern" is used. This is a universal base-pattern, according to which a new one is created that meets the requirements and wishes of the master.

Individual products are modeled following the sequence of stages:

1. model development - adjusting the basic pattern or creating a new one;
2. design of parts and method of their connection;
3. taking measurements;
4. transferring measurements to paper, and then to matter.

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Modeling techniques

There are several well-studied, "working" methods of creating individual things. Using one of them, you can easily model the product you need. The traditional way is "tattoo". This is an ancient technique by which a product is modeled and sewn on a mannequin or directly on a human figure. The tattoo is carried out with pins and "invisible".

An equally uncomplicated method is a dummy one. It allows you to process the shape of the finished product and display it in the desired size. For modeling, standardized patterns are used, they work on a base pattern or build a design structure. The method is widely used when trying on things when sewing.

The most common method is computational modeling. According to it, a pattern of the required size is created on the basis of a conventional-standard drawing. The drawing is built according to geometric calculations. There are several directions within the method:

• proportional-calculated;
• calculation and analytical;
• settlement and graphic;
• customer-oriented.

First of all, the famous method "according to Müller" is considered. It involves sewing things with a long back, middle chest and narrow hips. Also, the calculation method includes Lin Jacques's method for a conventionally standard figure with special tables for measurement. And the version developed in the Russian republican house of models. It is simple - you do not need formulas and time-consuming calculations to build patterns.

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Client-centered methodologies are based on the desire for individualization.

• "Lyubax" - taking into account horizontal and vertical lines, setting the norm for figures of a certain type and choosing patterns, the value of which is adjusted according to the parameters of the body.
• "Unimex" is the simplest, fastest sewing technique according to the characteristics of the body of a particular person.
• "Genetics of a cut by G. Zlachevskaya" - sewing dresses according to the principle of "golden section".

Start modeling

Before modeling a summer, warm or evening dress, you need to measure the body parameters as accurately as possible and calculate the numbers for finalizing the base drawing. We must not forget about the increments for the freedom of fitting - they depend on the chosen silhouette, style and type of fabric (elastic, thin, dense).

• If you are sewing a dress from a photo, you need to understand what kind of base you need. Then transfer its details to tracing paper using the standard sequence of actions.
• Draw the main axis in your drawing - this is the middle line of the shelf. To build it, they are guided by the jugular fossa on the torso, at the center between the most prominent points of the chest, at the midpoints between the vertical lines of the structure.
• Draw perpendiculars along the constructive points - these are the lines of the chest, hips, shoulders and waist (plus the knee if the dress is elongated).
• Construct a baseline that takes into account the depth of the neck, the height of the hip and chest, and the knee line.

Having created a mesh, you can match the conditional dimensions with the real "dimensions". The base frame is constructed from measurements taken from the body. The more accurate they are, the better the item will fit. When measuring, you need to stand straight, do not slouch, do not suck in your stomach.

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Dart modeling options

Most often, in the process of changing the pattern, breast darts are transferred. The shape of the shoulders and chest is very individual, and you need to locate the point anew each time. The dart is transferred to the lower side corner of the bodice - at the intersection of the side cut and the waist line. The top of this corner must be connected to the bottom corner on the dart along the chest. You will get a line for "opening" the pattern. In this case, the original darts are closed and you can transfer an individual sketch to the fabric.

The dart on the chest can be moved below. To do this, in the drawing of the bodice, the waist dart (angle) is connected to the lower corner of the dart on the chest (it is designated by the top of G8). The top element closes, and the bottom one unfolds to the end. To transfer the dart to a cut on the side, you need to divide the base in two or three, depending on the style. The set point will be the beginning of a new element. It needs to be connected with a line to the top of G8, cut and closed. The modified template for tucking the side cut should end 1.5-2 cm from G8.

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The basic bust dart can also be moved to other locations.

• In the cut of the armholes. It is divided in two or three, and the dividing point is connected to G8 - you can make a curvilinear relief by outlining a smooth curve and closing the chest solution on the dart or corner, dropping the line from G8 to the waist.
• Shoulder cut. It is also divided into 2 or 3 parts, from the resulting point a straight line is built up to the waist dart, and the chest is cut and closed.
• Cut at the neck. Its line is divided in two or three, the points are connected to G8. And the connecting axle is cut and transferred - the cut will lie in soft gathers.
• Center of the front panel (on gathered bodice). From G8, you need to build a perpendicular to the middle of the front, make a cut along it and transfer the dart, draping the assembly.
• Armhole undercut. You will need to draw a perpendicular similar to the line from the previous paragraph, then fix the dart at the waist and part of the upper one (for example, with pins), and form the remaining solution into small assemblies.
• Under the yoke from the armhole. The upper part of the bodice is cut completely (and not partly, as in the previous version) and a yoke is formed.

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Modeling dresses based on the "sheath" style

Often it is necessary to adjust the basis of a sheath dress when there is a strong difference in the girths at the waist and hips. For a pear-shaped figure, you can narrow the bottom on the basic pattern (as when sewing a pencil skirt), accentuate the shoulders and top. Contrast inserts, a boat neck, a large, voluminous collar or a decorated neckline will do. A slightly high waist also visually corrects the figure, but you need to be careful when narrowing the skirt. If the difference between the chest and hips is significant, the bottom should be slightly widened.

It should be remembered that:

• model lines of reliefs run from the armholes to the very bottom along the darts at the waist;
• the middle line of the back should fit well - transfer part of the solution to it;
• if the difference between the hips and the waist is large, the solutions when fitting exceed 3.5 cm, the darts are divided into two, otherwise there will be ugly creases in the waist.

The skirt can be changed by making a cut-off waist. The "tulip" style is formed by two opposite folds along the front (from the end of the waist darts, the part is cut vertically downward), and a cut is made on the back of the panel. A cut-off dress with a flared skirt can be modeled by redesigning the front neckline. Next, you need to transfer the waist dart to the side, outline the skirt with a "half-sun" and make the neckline and armhole on the back of the bodice, joining them with the front.

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Modeling on straight dresses

On a straight or loose silhouette, you can model a style with an extension of the skirt along the bottom - A-shaped.

The side cuts are made straight, and the darts for the chest are transferred to the seam on the side. In detail, you need to outline the yoke on the front. If the model does not have sleeves, you can make two lower one-sided folds and one opposite, from the neck to the bottom. The darts on the back are removed, and on the shelf it is necessary to complete the depth along the fold (12-15 cm are laid from the middle). Such models are most often sewn with a length above the knee, otherwise they will turn out to be excessively narrowed along the bottom. Pockets are often cut into the side seams.

It is possible to model individual dresses not only by transferring darts. For example, replacing them with a relief, you can make a new thing from the basic pattern with long sleeves with cuffs, a "dropped" shoulder, shoulder straps or a yoke over the chest. Cutouts are also often changed - a V-shaped neck is made from a rounded neck. By changing the base, you can sew many beautiful and non-trivial dresses for all occasions.

A sheath dress can fit the figure of its owner to varying degrees. We offer a pattern of one of the more free dress options. A slightly fitted dress looks great on both slender and curvier girls.

Round shallow neckline, asymmetrical relief on the front of the dress, three-quarter sleeves, zipper located in the middle seam of the back. A bow made of the same fabric, as well as a simple lightweight scarf, brooch, several strands of pearls or other accessory can serve as decoration - the main thing is that it should be in place and in time. I think that here the female instinct will not let you down.

Depending on the purpose of this dress, a wide variety of fabrics can be used. Fabric consumption with a width of 1.4-1.5m is approximately 1.6-2m.

Uncomplicated style for sewing. Perfect for beginners to sew. You can handle it!

This pattern is given in four life-size sizes with no seam allowances.

The pattern is sent instantly by e-mail.

Click the button GET A PATTERN- a few simple manipulations and the pattern appears in your email-box. It is this method of obtaining patterns that is the most optimal today - quickly, inexpensively, without advertising and without problems. When checking your mail, make sure that you went to the address that you indicated on the site. Open a letter with a pattern, print it on a regular printer, glue it, cut out the desired size and the templates for cutting are ready.

Even in exceptional cases, if you have any questions when receiving a pattern, we will not leave you and will bring the matter to its logical conclusion.

Note: first print one sheet with a 10x10 cm control square. Make sure its sides are exactly 10 cm. Achieve this with your printer settings. Now you can print out all the sheets of the pattern and assemble them into one puzzle, according to the scheme, using narrow tape or an adhesive pencil.

Before cutting out the details of the pattern, take a centimeter and compare your measurements with the parameters of the pattern. Check all the girths, the length of the product. Determine the optimal size for yourself and cut out the details of the pattern.

ATTENTION! The pattern is given WITHOUT ALLOWANCE on the seams! (When cutting, you must add them).

FITTING DETAILS

NOTE: Details of the front of the dress are cut on the fabric in one layer.

• The upper part of the front - 1 piece
• The lower part of the front - 1 piece
• Backrest - 2 pieces
• Sleeve - 2 pieces
• Front neck facing - 1 piece with a fold (copy from the main piece)
• Back neck piping - 2 parts (copy from the main part)
• Bow - cut 1 piece yourself 30cm long and 18cm wide (finished 9cm) plus a seam allowance
• The middle part of the bow 1 piece to cut by yourself 12x12cm (finished 12x6cm) plus a seam allowance

SEWING DRESS

Reinforce the piping details with an adhesive pad. All open cuts during sewing should be overcast. After the sewing operation, each knot should be ironed (ironed out, ironed, etc.) - all together this is called: subject to wet heat treatment (WTO).

Today, more than ever, simplicity of cut of clothes is in trend. The loose dress has been a hit for several seasons in a row. Only the density of the material, the decor change, and some modeling moments are introduced, but basically the cut remains unchanged. The pattern of a loose dress is quite simple to build, so even the most inexperienced seamstress can cope with sewing such a product. Of course, you can easily go to the store and buy the finished product. But self-tailoring has a lot of advantages, the main of which is the cost, which allows you to pamper yourself with a couple of new things for the same money. How to sew a loose dress at home will be discussed further.

Material selection

It is best to sew a loose dress from knitted fabric. It should be chosen based on the time of year. For winter, you can take angora or wool, for spring and autumn - diving, footer, jersey, for summer, stretch cooler and micro oil are ideal. Also, in the work, you can use dress fabrics with a transverse stretch. The advantage of stretch fabrics is that they wrinkle less. And given that the free dress is wide enough, this fact plays in favor of the appearance of the thing.

Preparation for sewing

Calculations and taking measurements are an integral part of the process of creating blanks for any product. The pattern of a loose dress is built on the basis of the following measurements of the figure:

• the volume of the chest, waist and hips;
• chest height;
• back and shoulder width;
• the height of the back and front to the waist;
• length of the product;
• upper arm girth;
• neck circumference.

All measurements should be written down on a piece of paper so that it is easier to transfer them to the drawing.

Pattern creation

A loose dress, as a rule, has either an A-line shape or a straight silhouette. The template for both models is the same, and all additional elements are built during the modeling process. The template is best done on a piece of wallpaper or construction film. The latter option is more practical if you plan to create not one, but several dresses.

So, in order to sew a free one, you will first need to develop a pattern based on the measurements taken. First, you should draw a rectangle in which half of the back and half of the front will be built. The upper and lower sides should be equal to half of the chest circumference, and the side - the length of the product. From the upper corner, you need to retreat by the size of the measurements "chest height" and "back and front height to the waist" and draw additional horizontal lines. The first will be the chest line and the second will be the waistline. Another 20 cm should be retreated from the latter and the line of the hips should be marked. Continuing to create the basic mesh, note the width of the back and calculate the width of the armhole to draw additional verticals. To do this, along the chest line from the left side of the rectangle, the value of the "back width" measure is retreated and the point from which the armhole begins is set. To calculate its length, you need to divide half of the breast volume by 4 and add 2 cm. This value is also marked on the chest line and put a dot. The rest will belong to the front shelf.

Next, proceed to the designation of the shoulder seams and the neckline. Here everything is quite simple: the value corresponding to half of the neck circumference recedes from the upper corners and the shoulder area is highlighted. In this case, the extreme point should be underestimated by 1 cm, and from the side of the back, the rounding of the neck should be raised by 1 cm, and the shoulder seam is also drawn with a bevel of 1 cm. point, connecting it to the edges of the shoulder seams. From this central point, the side seams are lowered down, which are slightly pulled apart to the sides to the bottom line, in accordance with the volume of the hips.

A free dress eliminates tuck darts, which simplifies the construction of a template. However, if the fit does not suit, the product can be slightly fitted from the back.

Build a sleeve

For a loose fit, it will be enough to process the armhole. A warmer version will need to be supplemented with a sleeve. It can be one-piece or set-in. They are built in different ways. If you continue the shoulder seam and, having cut the details of the base of the dress along the side seam, remove the lower cut of the sleeve from it, a one-cut version will come out. For the set-in sleeve, you will need to fold the base parts along the shoulders and transfer the cut of the armholes to a separate sheet for the drawing. After the upper rounding, you will need to rise by 1.5 cm and draw a circle based on the contour of the resulting line. Along the lower border of this figure, in the center, you should place the measurement of the girth of the upper arm and draw an okat descending along the boundaries of the circle and reduced to a straight line.

Decorative elements

The dress will come out really sophisticated if the decor is used correctly. For example, plain knitwear can be diluted with lace inserted into the shoulders or around the neckline. You can also play with a contrasting combination of canvases of the same quality. Loose dresses, photos of which are presented in the article, have various decorative decorations that can serve as an example or become for more interesting design ideas.

In addition to the standard decoration options, you can experiment with textures. For example, make a dress with a light chiffon collar and sleeves with mother-of-pearl buttons. In combination with dark knitwear, this dress will be an excellent office option.

Do not forget about such elements as pockets, they will perfectly complement loose dresses. Photos of finished products on the models will allow you to determine the most appropriate location of these elements. Slotted, laid on and with a leaf, decorated with rag roses, rhinestones and sewing stones on a strict silhouette of a wide cut, they will look very harmonious and make the image interesting and stylish.

Assembling parts

In order for the product to come out of high quality, you need to sew all its elements in the correct sequence. First of all, work is carried out with the front shelf, in particular, pockets and other model elements are made out. Next comes the turn of the shoulder seams and stitching on the sleeves. After that, the side sections are closed and the trim is sewn to the neckline. Next comes the turn of processing the bottom of the sleeves and the hem.