In this article you will learn how to build a pattern for the base of a dress.

After reading this article, you will learn step by step how to build a dress pattern according to the measurements taken for a specific figure.

For example, I use the size 48 standard, and you take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person you are going to sew this dress for.

On the left side of the prepared sheet of paper, draw a vertical line on which set aside the length of the dress, in our case 110 cm, and put points A and H. Draw perpendicular lines through A and H to the right.

Dress Width. From A to the right, set aside the half-girth of the chest plus 5 cm. and put point B (48+5=53cm). Draw a line from B down to the intersection with the bottom line and put a point H1.

Back length to waist. From A down, set the length of the back to the waist plus 0.5 cm and put T (38 + 0.5 \u003d 38.5 cm). From T to the right, draw a line to the intersection with the BH1 line, put a point at the intersection T1.

Hip line. From T down, set aside 1/2 the length of the back to the waist and place B (38/2 \u003d 19cm). Draw a line from B to the right, mark the intersection with BH1 as B1.

Back width. From A to the right, set aside the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put A1 (18 + 1.5 = 19.5 cm).

Armhole width. From A1 to the right, set aside 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest plus 0.5 cm. and put A2 (48:4+0.5=12.5). From A1 and A2 down draw lines of arbitrary length.

Back neck cut. From A to the right, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put A3 (18: 3 + 0.5 = 6.5). For figures with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra, the neck width is increased by 0.5 cm. From A3 up, set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.8 cm and place A4 (18:10 + 0.8 = 2.6 cm). Divide the corner at point A3 in half and draw a line. On this line, set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck minus 0.3 cm and put A5, (18:10-0.3 \u003d 1.5 cm). Connect the points A4, A5 and A obtained as a result of the construction with a smooth curve.

Shoulder cut. From A1, lay down 2.5 cm for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping, 1.5 cm for high and put a point P. Connect points A4 and P.

From A4, set aside the length of the shoulder plus 2 cm on the tuck and put P1 (13.5 + 2 = 15.5 cm). On the resulting line A4P1 from A4 to the right, set aside 4 cm and put a point O.

Set aside 8 cm from O down and place O1. From O to the right, set aside 2 cm and put O2. Connect points O1 and O2.

From point O1 through point O2 set aside a value equal to the segment O, O1 (so that the sides of the tuck are the same length) and set O3. Connect points O3 and P1.

Armhole depth. From P down, set aside ¼ of the half-girth of the chest plus 7 cm. (for stooped figures plus 7.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5 cm) and put a point G (48: 4 + 7 = 19 cm). For obese women (size 58 and more), the depth of the armhole is 1 cm less. Through G to the left and right, draw a horizontal line to the intersection with AN, designate G1, with the armhole width line G2, with the line VH1, designate G3.

Back cutout. From G up, set aside 1/3 of the distance of the PG plus 2 cm and put P2 (19: 3 + 2 = 8.3). Divide the corner at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and put a point P3 (12.5:10 + 1.5 = 2.8 cm), divide the GG2 line in half and put G4. Connect points P1, P2, P3 and G4.

Front armhole cut. From G2 up, set aside ¼ of the half-girth of the chest plus 5 cm (for stooped figures plus 4.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 5.5 cm) and put P4 (48: 4 + 5 = 17 cm). For obese women (size 58 and more), the cut of the armhole is 1 cm smaller. From P4 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the half-girth of the chest and put P5 (48:10 \u003d 4.8 cm) from G2 up, set aside 1/3 of the value of the segment G2P4 and put P6 (17: 3 \u003d 5.7). Connect P5 and P6 with a dotted line, divide in half and set aside 1 cm to the right at a right angle. Divide the corner at point G2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm, put P7 (12.5:10 + 0.8 = 2.1 cm) P5.1, P6, P7, G4 connect.

Shelf neck cut. From G3 up, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the chest plus 1.5 cm and put B1 (48: 2 + 1.5 = 25.5 cm). For stooped figures, set aside 1/2 of the half-girth of the chest plus 1 cm, for kinky figures, plus 2 cm. For overweight women (size 58 and over), the neckline is 1 cm smaller. Set aside the same value from G2 up and put B2. Connect B1 and B2. From B1 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put B3 (18: 3 + 0.5 = 6.5 cm). From B1 down, set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus 2 cm and put B4 (18: 3 + 2 \u003d 8 cm). Connect B3 and B4 with a straight line and divide it in half. Draw a line from B1 through the division point, on which set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus 1 cm and put B5 (18: 3 + 1 = 7 cm). We connect points B3, B5 and B4 and get the line of the neck of the shelf.

Center of the chest. From G3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest and put G6. Draw a line from G6 up to the intersection with line B1B2. Place point B6 at the intersection.

High point of the chest. From B6 down, set aside the measurement of chest height and put G7

Shoulder cut and chest tuck line. Set aside 1 cm from B6 down and put B7. Connect points B3 and B7. Connect points B7 and P5 with a dotted line. On the line P5 B7 from point P5 to the right, set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment B3B7 minus 0.3 cm and put B8 (13.5-3-0.3 \u003d 10.2 cm). From point G7 through point B8, draw a segment along the length equal to segment G7B7 and put B9. Connect points B9 and P5.

Definition of the side seam line. Start of construction. From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and place G5 (12.5: 3 = 4.2 cm). draw a vertical line through point G5. At the intersection with the armhole line, put a point P, at the intersections with the waist, hips and bottom lines, put points T2, B2, H2.

Determination of the solution of tucks along the waist line. To the measurement of the half-circumference of the waist, add an allowance for a free fit of 1cm (38+1=39), then subtract this value from the width of the dress along the line TT1 (53-39=14cm). We get a common solution of tucks 14cm. The size of the solution of the front tuck is 0.25 of the total solution of the darts (14x0.25=3.5cm), the side tuck is 0.45 (14x0.45=6.3cm), the back is 0.3 (14x0.3=4.2cm).

Determining the width of the dress along the hip line. Add 2 cm to the half-circumference of the hips for a loose fit (53 + 2 = 55 cm). From the resulting value, subtract the width of the dress along the line BB1 ​​(55-53 \u003d 2cm). Distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back, i.e. 1 cm.

Let's start building darts. Set aside 1 cm from B2 to the left and right and put B3 and B4. From T2 to the left and right, set aside half of the solution of the side tuck (6.3: 2 \u003d 3.2) and put T3 and T4. Connect point P with points T3 and T4. Connect points T3 B4 and T4 B3 with a dotted line, divide it in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the side and connect them with a smooth curve with points B3 T4 and the other side with B4 T3.

NOTE: If the hip circumference plus the loose fit is less than the width of the dress, the result will be negative. For example, if with a chest half-girth of 48 cm, the hip half-girth is 50 cm, then in the calculation we will get a negative value (50 + 2 - 53 \u003d -1 cm). We distribute this value equally between the shelf and the back (-1: 2 \u003d - 0.5 cm) and put B3 and B4 from point B2 to the left and right by 0.5 cm. See figure "If the result is negative"

If during the calculation you get zero as a result, then points B3 and B4 will coincide with point B2.

See figure "When the result is zero"

Front waistline. From B1 down, set aside the length of the front waist plus 0.5 cm and place T5 (43 + 0.5 = 43.5 cm). Connect T4 and T5 with a smooth line.

Hip line. From B1 down, set aside the value of the segment T1, T5 and put B5. Connect points B5 and B3 with a smooth line.

Back tuck. Divide the distance G, G1 in half, mark the division point as G8. From G8, lower the line down to the intersection with the line B, B1. At the intersections with the waist line and the hip line, put points and mark them as T6 and B6. From T6 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the solution of the back tuck (4.2: 2 \u003d 2.1) and put T7 and T8. From G8 down, set aside 1 cm; from B6, set aside 3 cm up. Connect these points to T7 and T8.

Shelf tuck. Draw a line from G6 down to the intersection with line B, B1. Intersections with the lines of the waist and hips designate T9 and B7. From T9 to the left and to the right, set aside half the solution of the front tuck (3.5: 2 \u003d 1.7) and put T10 and T11. From G7 down, and from B7 up, set aside 4 cm, put dots and connect them to T10 and T11.

Shelf bottom line. Draw lines from B3 and B4 down to the intersection of I with H, H1 and mark H3 and H4. If the dress should be extended downwards from H3 and H4 to the left and right, set aside 3-7 cm and connect with B3 and B4. In the drawing, these lines are shown by dotted lines. From H1 down, set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and set the point H5. Connect points H3 and H5.

All. The dress pattern is ready.

This is the basic drawing, on the basis of which you can design any style from the whole variety of styles of dresses.

Cut details

A stylish fitted sheath dress should be present in every woman's wardrobe. Depending on the chosen material, this wardrobe detail can become both an attribute of a business wardrobe and a dress for going out.

It is sewn according to the basic pattern of the dress. Building a pattern for the base of a dress is an important step in learning how to design clothes. This process requires care and consistency, so I suggest watching a video on building a pattern for the base of a dress.

Video lesson:

Cutting preparation

Before , how to build a sheath dress pattern, you need to take the measurements you need for work. The necessary measurements with ready-made values ​​are given in the table for the sample. In the "Value" field, enter your own dimensions:

To avoid inaccuracies in taking measurements, I also attach a table of typical measurements that are used in the Italian cutting system. It can be downloaded for free from the link:

(downloads: 135)

The measurement system is no different from the standard rules. The Italian method of construction allows you to achieve an adjacent silhouette of the dress.

Also, for work, you will need a table of increments for free fit, which is given in the photo:

Comment: to build a dress, we need an increase value of 1 degree.

Building a dress pattern

So, the construction of the pattern begins with the setting of point A in the upper left corner of the sheet. Further from this point down we put off the segment calculated by the formula: Size / 24 + 0.2 cm. We put t. V. This distance will be equal to the depth of the neckline on the back.

Then again from t. A we retreat down 4.5 cm and put t. B1.

After that, we find the depth of the armhole and the position of point C, that is, from point A down, you need to set aside a segment equal to Height / 8 + Size / 24.

Next, we find the location of point D - the value of the DTS, which is also set aside down from point A.

Now, from the received t. D, we put down the value of the measure of the WB and get t. E.

We find the last point F by setting aside from t. A a segment equal to the measure of DP.

Now we mark the line of the neck. To do this, from t. A to the right, we draw a segment that is equal to Size / 6. We put t. G.

Again, from t. A to the right, we draw a line on which we mark t.

We turn to t. C. To the right of it we lay off the line on which we find the position of t. C1. Segment CC1 \u003d OG / 4 + 1/4 increase in freedom of fit (PSO).

Now, from point D, we also put aside point D1 to the right, which is located at a distance equal to OT / 4 + 3cm (tuck) + 1/4 PSO.

We find the position of point E1, for this, to the right from point E, we set aside a segment that is equal to the value of OB / 4 + 1/4 PSO.

Point F1 is at the same distance from point F as point E1 from point E, i.e. EE1 = FF1.

We connect the points C1, D1, E1 and F1 with a smooth line. We have the side seam line ready.

Draw a line from T. N down. At the intersection with the segment CC1, point I is obtained. At a distance of 4.5 cm from point H, we put point L on the same line. We connect points L and B1:

We extend line B1L to the right. We find the position of point L1 on it. Distance В1L1 is equal to ШП/2. We connect t. G and t. L1.

From t. I along the line HI we measure 5 cm upwards, 0.3 cm to the right. We get t. M. We draw a smooth line, connecting t. L1, t. M and t. C1. This is the armhole line. From t. L1 along the armhole line, measure down 9cm. We put a notch, which will be a control mark for sewing in a sleeve.

We turn to the design of the tuck. To do this, we find the position of point R by dividing DD1 in half. Draw a perpendicular line from the obtained point up and down. From the place of intersection with CC1 we go down 2 cm and put t. R1. Down from t. R we go down 14 cm and get t. R2. On the line DD1 we set aside the segments RR3=RR4=1.5 cm. We connect t. R1, t. R3, t. R2, t. R4 with a straight line.

Back patterns are ready:

We begin the construction of the front half of the dress. Again we put t. A, from which we put down the value Height / 8 + Size / 24. Received T.S. This is the depth of the armhole.

Segment AD is equal to the value of DTS, segment DA1 is equal to the value of RTA.

We get t. B, postponing from t. A1 down the value Size / 6 + 1 cm.

We find the position of point G. It is located at a distance equal to Size / 6, to the left of point A1. Draw a bisector from angle GA1B. Find position B1 on the bisector. A1B1 = Size / 6 + 0.5 cm. We draw the line of the neck, connecting t. G, t. B1, t. B.

From t. D along the AD line down, we set aside the value of the WB measurement and set t. E. Next, we find the position of t. F. AF \u003d DP.

We continue the straight line A1G to the left and put t. H. on it. The distance A1H is equal to SS/2 - 1 cm

To the left of point C at a distance that is equal to OG / 4 + 1/4 PSO, we set point C1.

From point D to the left we set aside point D1, which is located at a distance of a segment that is equal to OT / 4 + 3cm (tuck) + 1/4 PSO.

EE1 \u003d OB / 4 + 1/4 PSO

We connect the found points with a smooth line and get the line of the side seam:

Draw a straight line from t. H down. At the intersection with CC1, we put point I. At a distance of 7.5 cm from point H, we put point L.

Draw a straight line from t. L to the left. We find the position of point L1. To do this, on the drawing of the back we measure the segment GL1 and on the drawing of the front from point G we set aside the segment of the same size until it intersects with the line drawn from point L.

The segment A1N is equal to the value of the measure VG. To the left of point N we put point N, which is at a distance of TsG / 2.

On the line GL1 we put t. G1, descending from t. G down to a distance equal to Size / 10 + 0.5 cm.

We draw a perpendicular line to the segment GL1 and put t. G2 at a distance of 1.6 cm from t. G1.

We draw a line between t. G2 and t. N1. Up from t. N1 we retreat 7.5 cm and put t. N2. From this point we draw a perpendicular to the straight line G2N1 with a length of 2 cm.

We measure the length of the segment G2N1 and draw a line of the same length from point N1 so that it passes through the extreme point of the perpendicular. At the end we put t. G3.

In the drawing of the back, we measure the value of the segment GL1 and draw a straight line from point G in the drawing of the front of the same length, while this line must pass through t. G2 and G3. At the end of the line we put t. L2. We erase the line between t. G2 and t. G3.

We find the position of t. M on the segment IН. To do this, we retreat upwards from t. I by 5 cm. T. M1 is located from t. M to the left at a distance of 2 cm.

Now we draw a smooth line between point C1, point M1, point L2. This is the armhole line. From t. L2 we go down 9 cm and put a mark for stitching the sleeve:

We proceed to the construction of the tuck. To do this, we find the position of t. R on the segment DD1. DR = NN1. Draw a straight line from point R up and down. On the line N1R from t. N1 we retreat 2 cm down and put t. R1.

P. R2 is 10cm lower than p. R.

RR3=RR4=1.5cm.

We connect the points R1, R4, R2, R3 and get a tuck.

The pattern is ready.

In my opinion, this is the most understandable way to build a pattern. But it is worth considering that for a different type of figure there are nuances. So, for example, when constructing a pattern for a children's dress, the construction of tucks in the drawing should be excluded. And for women of large sizes, it will be necessary to make other additions to the freedom of fitting. Also a popular technique is the construction of a drawing according to Muller.

Based on the basic pattern of a women's dress, using simple modeling methods, you can achieve dress styles that are completely different from each other.

In this case, it is possible to carry out manipulations with the sleeve of the product. So, for example, from an ordinary sheath dress you can get a fashionable summer dress with a one-piece sleeve:

This dress model is very well suited for overweight women, hiding figure flaws:

Using the skills of building a basic pattern, you can sew a light summer dress for a girl.

Another popular method is to build a pattern according to Zlachevskaya. Using her technique, when constructing a drawing, all the individual features of the figure are taken into account. This method is considered the most accurate, excluding the subsequent fitting of the product.

For beginners, it will be useful to learn the classic method for constructing a basic pattern for a dress and a set-in sleeve. Moving from simple to complex, in the future you can learn how to model products with a raglan sleeve and even outerwear with a lining.

How to understand the pattern. After you master the skills of sewing, the second stage will be working with patterns. When you understand sewing according to patterns, you will discover truly limitless possibilities for independent tailoring of clothes, costumes, toys, and everything that can be sewn. So, look at some practical recommendations for working with patterns.

Setting the correct pattern size

1. Accurately determine the size of the future product.

Correctly take measurements from the person for whom you want to sew clothes, but if you decide to sew for yourself, then be sure to involve someone to help you take measurements, but keep in mind that the patterns will not always be the same size as the purchased clothes that you wear. As a rule, a size chart is attached to the patterns, focusing on it, you can easily determine your size.
For the most part, ready-made patterns use international size coding.

2. Look carefully, the pattern can be universal or the so-called multi-size.

Examine the finished pattern very carefully. As a rule, I make ready-made patterns of the company universal for any size, or they are also called multi-size. This means that this pattern can be used for various sizes and your task on the pattern is to find exactly the size that you need. This is done using special marks on the pattern that correspond to your size.

3. You must understand what an allowance is.

In some patterns, you can find a fit allowance, this is done so that the clothes are comfortable to wear. But keep in mind that not every fabric needs to take into account the allowance. For example, if you are going to sew from knitwear, then you should not take into account the allowance for it, since this type of fabric stretches perfectly. Therefore, in order to correctly determine the allowance, you need to know exactly what fabric you will make the product from and correctly read the instructions attached to the finished pattern in order to ultimately determine the final size of the product. If you want to make your own adjustments to an already finished allowance, be very careful about this, because the product will fit you or sit freely. For beginners, it is not recommended to change the finished allowances, so leave everything as it is at the initial stage, but note that some companies use standard names for allowances, something like a tight figure or a loose one.

pattern reading

1. As a rule, each finished pattern consists of detailed sewing instructions and a sheet of the pattern itself. Train yourself to always read the sewing instructions for a particular pattern. Since it may contain important nuances that sometimes cannot be dispensed with and must be taken into account, for example, how to correctly determine the dimensions of the pattern details, how to cut out the details themselves, and also what sequence should be followed when assembling the finished product.

2. When reading the instructions, pay special attention to the presence of seam allowances in the patterns.

As a rule, patterns can go without allowances, so you have to adjustallowances independently, based on the fabric of the product and which onethe style you want to end up with is looser or tighter.

3. When reading the instructions for the pattern, carefully look where the share line passes.

The share thread is schematically indicated as the longest line with one, and possibly two arrows at the ends.

The arrow indicates the direction to follow when laying out the nest.directly on the fabric, that is, there must be a coincidence of the equity line on the fabric and on the cutting.
For example, on large parts, the share thread is usually located along the length of the entire product and along
Edges on small details such as belts or cuffs may be different, but we must take into account that in
it is possible to make small details and large deviations without fear that small parts will stretch
or warped and the appearance of the finished product will be spoiled.

To determine the lobar thread on the fabric, you must adhere to the following rule:
- in the direction that should stretch the least in that directionlobar thread or view the tissue through the light on some fabrics, the lobar thread is visible, itlies more evenly.

The notches are marks in the form of triangles located along the edges of the trimmed sections of the pattern. Notches also differ in appearance, they are single double or even triple. The main purpose of notches is the correct combination of several parts of your product. From practice, we can say that single notches are made on the front of the part, and double on the back, but there may not necessarily be nuances.

5. Find the dots on the pattern.

Be careful on the pattern, even small details do not matter, so pay attention to small circles, they can indicate the location of various details such as pockets or buttons and others in this place, but their main purpose is to show you where you need to chop off the details of your product to align the fabric of the two layers. Therefore, to clarify the purpose on the pattern of certain points, be sure to study the instructions, this will help you not to make a mistake. At the same time, keep in mind that the instructions may not always explain the purpose of certain points, so sometimes you have to figure it out on your own, I can suggest some nuances, for example, the lightning on the pattern usually has a zigzag appearance, and if you see two points on two connected parts, then these points and will be the points of combination of parts.

6. Separately, I would like to draw your attention to the display of buttons on the pattern.

As already mentioned, buttons can be displayed as circles or as a cross, while the buttonholes are displayed as a line closed with brackets, from which you can accurately estimate the length of the buttonhole.

7. Find parallel lines along the edges on the pattern.

They show us how many sizes the pattern has, that is, I repeat that the pattern can be not only one size, but be universal, and based on these lines, you can choose the size of the finished product you need. The size of the pattern can either be indicated near these lines, or it can only be indicated in the instructions, so always check the purpose of these lines in the instructions, since the purpose of these lines may vary in different variations of the pattern. After determining the size you need in the pattern, you can cut the pattern along the contour of the corresponding size you need.

8 Dotted lines on the pattern.

The dotted line on the pattern indicates the place where you will make the stitch. There are cases when this dotted line is not indicated in the pattern, in this case they are guided by the standard allowances of 15 mm from the edge, but it is always worth clarifying this point in the instructions for the pattern.

9. Large triangle or rhombus on the pattern.

A large triangle or sometimes a diamond on the pattern indicates the location of the undercut. Undercuts should be made on a single piece of material so that it better fits the curved parts of the body.

10. Pay special attention to the lines of the folds.

Schematically, they are quite often indicated by a dash or bracket. Focusing on the fact that this section of the material should be laid in a fold, and not just cut off. Keep this in mind so as not to make unnecessary cuts in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe folds.

So, you have already studied the theoretical part and are ready to start practicing, I can recommend a few tips on how to start sewing using a pattern and not be disappointed in the end.

1. Since you are a beginner, do not look for a complex pattern. Find something very simple at the initial stage so you will understand how to work with patterns and it will be easier for you to put theoretical knowledge into practice. Read the descriptions for the pattern, and not only because you need to know all the nuances of the pattern you have chosen, but also because from the description you will understand whether this clothing suits you in terms of size, fit and style. This information can be found on the back of the pattern.

2. Before starting work, look visually at what the finished product looks like, thereby you will determine for yourself whether you need it. Many patterns are accompanied by ready-made images or even better photographs, while the model can be shown from various angles and in various versions, for example, with long sleeves and short sleeves, with and without a collar, etc.

3. Once again, pay attention to the complexity of the pattern. On many patterns, the level of complexity of execution is indicated; various companies can have a layer of gradation from beginner to professional. Based on these data, do not choose a very difficult one.

4. Before starting work, decide on the materials for manufacturing.
In the instructions in the description you will find the recommended materials and the required amount for manufacturing - it can be either one material or several, and also listen to the advice on which materials should not be used. This information is important, as it will help you determine the budget required for the manufacture of the finished product.

5. Separately, from the description of the pattern, various accessories can be distinguished, for example, zippers, buttons, buttons that you will need to sew the product, as a rule, their number is clearly indicated in the description for the pattern.

6. Well, you can also highlight the main tips for a beginner in this very exciting business:
- do not buy very expensive fabric for the first pattern, as there is a high probability of making many mistakes the first time and it will be very expensive to correct them. First practice on something cheap enough and then proceed to more expensive material.
- Determine the front and back sides of the fabric, make notes for yourself on the wrong side of the fabric.
- the paper pattern should be perfectly smooth, so smooth the pattern if necessary.
- remember, especially at the initial stage, double-check everything, especially such as allowances, measurements, the location of small parts, etc.

1. Always cut out all the details of the pattern, this will help you to navigate more easily and correctly and with the maximum compactness to lay out the pattern on the fabric and cut it out.
- to cut a fabric pattern, you need to have several scissors, both large and small, and keep in mind the scissors must be very sharp in order to cut as accurately as possible.
- if you are not satisfied with the paper on which the pattern is made, just stick it on thicker paper, so it is easier for beginners to cut.
- if you inadvertently cut the pattern, do not worry and seal it as carefully as possible, it is important that you do not damage the marks on the pattern itself and it is still readable.

2. Pattern layout.
As a rule, in the instructions you can find tips on how to properly lay out all the patterns and on what size of fabric this can be done, while you need to take into account some nuances:

- circle the patterns with chalk or a special marker, you can make marks with tape, for example, mark the front side of the fabric.
- the layout of the pattern details may vary depending on the pattern on the fabric you use, or in some cases it affects whether the fabric has a direction or whether it can be twisted when the entire pattern set is located.
- having laid out the patterns, pin them with pins, but if you do not want to make a hole in the fabric, you can simply press down with something heavy. When unfolding the patterns, keep in mind that it is necessary to leave a 15mm seam allowance, but be sure to check this information in the instructions to avoid mistakes, because some details of the pattern may not have this allowance.
- if possible, after cutting, do preliminary fittings of the pattern to make direct adjustments already in place.

At first glance, the drawing of the base pattern looks very complicated. Believe me, this is only at first glance. Follow my description of the construction, and step by step we will master it!

The main drawing of women's shoulder clothing with set-in sleeves remains the same for all models, we will only change certain sections of the drawing and additions, in accordance with changes in style. On this basis, you can make not only a pattern for a dress, but also a pattern for a blouse, jacket and coat.

In addition, based on this construction, you can cut the shoulder product into.

To build a base pattern, measurements and increments are needed. Read about how to take measurements correctly in the article about. Increase tables are located.

Measurements (cm)↓

• Ssh = 17.5
• Cr1 = 42
• Cr2 = 46
• Cr3 = 44
• St = 36
• Sat = 48
• Wh = 14
• Dts = 40
• Dtp = 43
• Vg \u003d 26
• Tsg = 8.5
• Vpk = 43
• Ws = 17
• Shn = 12.5
• dr = 55
• Op = 27
• Vprz = 20
• Di = 80

Gains (cm)↓

• Pg = 3.5
• Pshs = 0.7
• Pshp = 0.35
• Ppr = 2.45
• Fri = 1
• Pb = 1.5
• Pshgor = 0.5
• Pdts = 0.5
• Psp = 1.5
• Pop = 3

The increase along the chest line is distributed between the areas of the back, front and armholes↓

Pg \u003d Pshs + Pshp + Ppr.

For products of an adjacent silhouette:
Pshs = 0.2Pg
Pshp = 0.1Pg
Ppr \u003d 0.7Pg

For products of a semi-adjacent silhouette:
Pshs = 0.25Pg
Pshp = 0.15Pg
Ppr \u003d 0.6Pg

For products of a free silhouette:
Pshs = 0.3Pg
Pshp = 0.2Pg
Ppr \u003d 0.5Pg

To facilitate your task, you can use calculator tables for an accurate calculation of the structure or a ready-made parametric pattern. Press a plus to open the tab and learn more. ↓

Ready solution:

Table-calculator for calculating the pattern-base of the female shoulder product and sleeve

You enter your measurements, and the program automatically calculates all the formulas. You do not have to count in your head or on a calculator and be afraid to make a mistake in the calculation.

390 rub

Let's start building the drawing, as usual, by building a right angle with the apex at point A. Draw a vertical line down, which will serve as the middle of the back (back half of the dress), to the right - a horizontal line, which will serve as the base of the top of the neck of the back.

1. From point A to the right horizontally, lay off the segment Aa1, equal to the width of the product along the chest line with an increase. Aa1 = Cr3 + Pg. Aa1 = 44 + 3.5 = 47.5. Draw a vertical line down from point A, which will be the line of the middle of the back. Draw a vertical line down from point a1, which will be the line of the middle of the shelf (the front half of the dress).

2. From point A down, mark the distance AG. AG \u003d Vprz + Pspr \u003d 20 + 1.5 \u003d 21.5. Draw a horizontal line through point G to the right and at the intersection with the line of the middle of the shelf we put point G1

3. From point A to the right along the line Aa1, we set aside the width of the back Aa, equal to the sum of Wc + Pshs. Aa \u003d 17 + 0.7 \u003d 17.7.

4. We set aside the width of the shelf from point a1 to the left and put point a2. a2a1 \u003d Shg + (Sg2 - Sg1) + Pshp \u003d 14 + (46-42) + 0.35 \u003d 18.4. From points a and a2 we lower the perpendiculars to the line of the chest and put points Г3Г4.

5. The width of the armhole aa2 (or G3G4) we got as a result of construction. aa2 (G3G4) \u003d Aa1-Aa-a2a1, that is, from the width of the product along the chest line, you need to subtract the width of the back and the width of the shelf. G3G4 \u003d 47.5 - 17.7 - 18.4 \u003d 11.5. There is a table approximate armhole width for typical figures. ⇓

Compare the width of the armhole you received with the approximate one. For an adjacent silhouette, it should not be too small, that is, it should not be less than approximate for your size. If you get an armhole width less than the minimum armhole width for your size in the table, then check the Ws and Wg measurements. Perhaps they are exaggerated. For control, compare measurements with for your size.

6. Further from point A downwards vertically, we set aside a segment that determines the level of the waist line. AT \u003d Dts + Pdts \u003d 40 + 0.5 \u003d 40.5. From the point T to the right we draw a horizontal line and at the intersection with the line a1G1 we put the point T1.

7. The distance from the waist line to the hip line TB = 0.5Dts - 2cm = 0.5 × 40 - 2 = 18. Hip line BB1 ​​horizontally.

8. From point A down, set aside the length of the product. AH \u003d Di \u003d 80. From the point H to the right we draw a horizontal line HH1. The drawing grid is built, let's start building the back.

Back construction

9. To the right of point A, set aside the width of the neck of the back - AA2. AA2 \u003d Ssh / 3 + Pshgor \u003d 17.5 / 3 + 0.5 \u003d 6.3.

10. From point A2 we lower down the perpendicular equal to the height of the sprout.

A2A1 \u003d AA2 / 3 \u003d 6.3 / 3 \u003d 2.1. Let's connect point A1 with the middle of the backrest with a horizontal segment and put point A0. Let's draw the neck line of the back by connecting the points A0A2 with a smooth line.

11. The position of the end shoulder point P1 is found using the intersection of two arcs: the first arc from point A2 with a radius equal to the width of the shoulder Shp + the opening of the tuck and the second arc with a radius equal to the measurement of the height of the shoulder oblique Vpk + increase Pdts. A2P1 \u003d Shp + tuck solution \u003d 12.5 + 2 \u003d 14.5. TP1 = Vpk + Pdts = 43 + 0.5 = 43.5. We draw the line of the shoulder seam by connecting points A2 and P1.

12. The size of the tuck solution II1 depends on the posture of the figure and on the structure of the fabric:

13. The location of the A2I tuck on the shoulder seam is also determined depending on the posture of the human figure. For typical figures, the distance from point A2 to point I is 4 - 4.5 cm. If the figure is stooped, then the tuck is located closer to the middle of the shoulder section. We postpone the solution of the tuck from the point And along the line of the shoulder cut and get the point I1. And we postpone the length of the tuck from the point And down vertically and put the point I2. The length of the II2 tuck should be at least 6 cm and not more than 9 cm. The II2 line is straight, the I1I2 line is a smooth curve.

14. To decorate the armhole line of the back, we find auxiliary points P3, c, G2. From the point P1 to the line aG3 we restore the perpendicular and the resulting intersection point is denoted by the point P2. We measure the segment G3P2 in the drawing. Now from the point G3 upwards we set aside a value equal to 1/3 of the distance G3P2 plus 2 cm. G3P3 \u003d G3P2 / 3 + 2 cm.

16. Point G2 is the middle of the armhole, which means G3G2 \u003d 0.5 × 11.5 \u003d 5.7 cm. We connect the points P1, P3, c, G2 with a smooth line - this is the back armhole.

Our back is built, how are you doing? If everything is OK, then we will continue and proceed to the construction of the shoulder product.

© Olga Marizina

Hello my dear! Now an endless world of dress models will open before you, because when you make your own perfect base pattern, shot according to your measurements - you can build absolutely any dress that your fantasy tells you. And you will have to work a little only once - now.

So don't let the large number of letters and numbers in the drawing scare you, in fact make a base pattern will be a feasible task for you, because I will tell you about it in simple terms.

What will the building consist of?

We will draw half of the back and half of the front of the dress.

But first we need to decide what silhouette of the dress we want. Silhouettes are:

• tight fitting
• Adjoined
• semi-adjacent
• Straight

For example, I will build a pattern for you in size 46.

Dress length=85cm

For a snug fit, I'll take the following raises:

I wrote more about supplements above.

Don't let this drawing scare you, we will make it in parts and in four stages:

• let's build a grid
• upper back
• top front
• bottom of the dress from the waist with darts

Building a GRID

For your drawing, take better graph paper. She's the most comfortable. Instead of my initial data, substitute in the calculations your taken measurements, and it will be VERY EASY for you to build a drawing this way.

Set point A.

1. AH down = hem line level = product length = 85 cm
2. AT down \u003d waist line level \u003d Dts + Pdts \u003d 42.9 + 1 \u003d 43.9
3. AG down \u003d armhole line level \u003d Vprz + Pspr \u003d 21.3 + 2.5 \u003d 23.8
4. TB down = hip line level = Dlb = 20 (this is the standard)

For a better fit in the back area and for vertical side seams, you need to make a withdrawal of the middle line of the back, for this we draw a horizontal line from the T point. On it we postpone TT "to the right = 1.5 cm (this is the standard). Draw a straight line through point T and point A. Now all calculations will be made from points G, T. Mark them on your drawing.

We draw horizontal lines from all points.

Now we determine the width of the grid = Г»Г1 = Сг3 + Пг = 46 + 3 = 49

We make a kind of frame for the drawing (grid). On the right side we put points A1, G1, T1, B1, H1.

We set aside the back width \u003d Г»Г2 to the right \u003d Ws + 0.2 × Pg \u003d 17.7 + 0.2 × 3 \u003d 18.3

Set aside the width of the front \u003d Wg + 0.1 × Pg + 0.5 (Cr2-Cr1) \u003d 16.8 + 0.1 × 3 + 0.5 (48.2-44.2) \u003d 19.1

We check the width of the armhole on the drawing:

• armhole width G2G3 \u003d W mesh - W back - W front \u003d 49 - 18.3 - 19.1 \u003d 11.6

Divide G2G3 in half = position of the side seam = draw a vertical down from the point G4.

Back construction

1. AU Down = level of the bottom of the shoulder blades \u003d 0.4 × Dts \u003d 0.4 × 42.9 \u003d 17.2 We set aside from point A down and at a right angle to the outlet.
2. AA2 right = back neck width \u003d 1/3 Ssh + Pshgs \u003d 18.3 / 3 + 1 \u003d 7.1
3. A2A21 down = back neck depth \u003d 1/3 AA2 + Pvgs \u003d 7.1 / 3 + 0.2 \u003d 2.6

Shoulder slope: is found using two radii (R):

• R1 \u003d A2P1 \u003d Shp + shoulder tuck (1.5 cm - standard) + shoulder extension \u003d 13.2 + 1.5 + 0.5 \u003d 15.2 (we put the compass at point A2 and make an arc at a distance of 15.2, as in the figure below)

• (R2) \u003d T "P1 \u003d Vpks + Pdts \u003d 42.9 +1 \u003d 43.9 (we put the compass at point T "and set aside an arc of 43.9 cm; the point of intersection of two arcs is P1)

We are building shoulder tuck on the slope of the shoulder:

from point A2 to the right we set aside 4 cm (this is a constant value). We draw a vertical from it down - this is the left side of the tuck. Set aside from point 4 to the right along the shoulder line 1.5 cm (undercut). And draw the right side of the tuck, equalize both sides of the tuck.

If you sew the tuck as a tuck without modeling, then the length of the tuck is 10-12 cm. If the tuck is transferred to the side of the chest, we make the tuck to the line of the shoulder blades. (marked in blue in the figure)

Now to build sleeve entry lines , additional points are needed:

• from point P1 we draw a perpendicular to the line of the width of the back. We put a cross.
• We divide the distance from this cross to the chest line into 3 equal parts. We add 2 cm to the bottom 1/3 (this is a constant value) - this is the P3 point.
• Bisector from point Г2 = 0.2×Г2Г3 + 0.5 = 0.2×11.6 + 0.5 = 2.8

We draw a line of entry into the sleeve under the pattern.

Building the front

To begin with, we make a decrease along the waistline:

• 0.5 cm for size 40-42
• 0.7 -1 cm for size 44-48
• 1.2-2 for 50-56 size
• over 2 - over size 56

We take a decrease of 1 cm.

• T1 T11 down we postpone this decrease of 1 cm
• Now we do the same decrease along the bottom line: H1H11 down 1 cm.
• T11 A11 up \u003d position of the upper point of the neck of the front \u003d Dtp \u003d Pdtp \u003d 44.1 + 1.3 \u003d 45.4

In order for the dress to fit well in the chest area (not puffed up) - you need to make a fit (semi-skid).

• A11 A12 left 1cm (standard). Connect point A12 with G1.

• A12 A3 left = front neck width = AA2 (calculated from backrest drawing) = 7.1
• A12 A4 Down = Front Throat Depth = A12A3 + 1 (Constant) = 7.1 + 1 = 8.1

Building BREAST DRAW .

• D1D5 left = position of the center line of the chest = Cg + 0.5 (constant value) = 9.9 +0.5 = 10.4

Through the point G5 we draw a vertical with a dotted line.

• Radius A3G6 to the center line of the chest = Br + 0.5 × Pdtp = 26.2 + 0.5 × 1.3 = 26.9. We connect A3 and G6 with a straight line.

• Radius A3 A5 \u003d opening of the chest tuck \u003d 2 × (Cr2 - Cr1) \u003d 2 × (48.2 - 44.2) \u003d 8. We put the compass in A3 and draw an arc.
• Radius G6 A5 = A3G6 = 26.9. We connect points A5 and G6.

Shoulder slope:

is also found using 2 radii.

• Radius A5 P5 \u003d A2 P1 - shoulder tuck \u003d 15.2 - 1.5 \u003d 13.7
• Radius G6 P5 \u003d Vpkp + 0.5 × Pdtp \u003d 23 + 0.5 × 1.3 \u003d 23.7

Connect points P5 and A5.

Check: point P1 must be higher than point P5. If point P5 is higher, you need to cut off a piece of the shoulder from the front and add it to the back). Horizontal alignment is allowed.

We are building sleeve entry line .

Additional points:

• Point P6 - horizontal from the lower 1/3 of the back (see figure below)
• Bisector from point Г3 = 0.2 × Г2Г3 = 0.2 × 11.6 = 2.3

Now we need to check front width at point P6:

• W transmission \u003d Wg + 0.1 × Pg \u003d 16.8 + 0.1 × 3 \u003d 17.1

To do this, set aside from point P6 the perpendicular to the tuck line (see dotted line in the figure below).

On the other side of the tuck at the same level, we draw a horizontal line with a dotted line. Measure the length of both dotted lines = 16cm (in my drawing).

And the width should be 17.1 cm. The missing value is set aside on the horizontal from point P6. We put new point P6.

We draw with the help of the pattern the line of entry into the pocket.

Hip Width

Equalize the segments G»G4 = B»B21

Calculate the difference between your hip width and chest width:

Difference \u003d (Sb + Pb) - G "G1 \u003d (50 + 1.5) - 49 \u003d 2.5.

That is, the lack along the line of the hips \u003d 2.5 cm. So you need to expand the half of the front and half of the back by 1.25 cm each:

• from point B2 to the left 1.25 cm = expand in front
• from point B21 to the right 1.25 cm = expand the back

Draw vertical lines from these new points.

We build darts at the waist

First you need to calculate the difference between T»T1 and your waist width (based on measurements).

• Difference \u003d T "T1 - (St + Fri) \u003d 48.5 - (35 + 1.5) \u003d 12

We distribute this difference between 4 tucks:

1. in the middle seam 1.5
2. in the side 4.5
3. back tuck 3.5
4. front tuck 2.5

• in the middle seam 1.5 cm (see the figure below: from point T "to the right 1.5 cm. We draw straight lines from point 1.5 to the level of the line of the shoulder blades and point B")

• Side seam 4.5 cm (see the figure below: set aside from point T2 by 2.25 to the right and left, connect with point G4 and points 1.25 on the hip line)

Back tuck - 3.5 cm. (see the figure below: we divide the distance between the tuck of the middle seam and the side tuck on the back in half, from this point we set aside half of the tuck - 1.75 - to the right and left. Draw the center line parallel to branch. From the level of the shoulder blades we lower the angle of the tuck by 5 cm down, from the level of the hips we set aside 2 cm upwards and draw the lower side of the tuck)

Front tuck: 2.5 cm (see the figure below: on the center line of the center of the chest, lay off half of the tuck - 1.25 cm - from point G6 lower the angle of the tuck by 3 cm, connect the lower side to the hip line)

We draw a bottom line along the front (under the pattern) and back (equalizing the sides, at right angles, as in the drawing of the backrest below)

Congratulations! If you have read up to this point, then perhaps you already have a YOUR pattern base , or you already at least understood how it is done. But this is the first step towards a series of future beautiful dresses! In the next article I will tell you how to translate a breast tuck so that it is invisible on the product. See you on the blog pages and Sew With Me!

Here is another very interesting option for building a base pattern on fabric: